Other JUST DROPPED: All-new Slash+ e-MTB

[Doomanic]

RTFM...

 

[Emailsucks98]

I would say linear is front, and rear is progessive

Correct. It's buried at the very end of the service manual!

 

[TimC7]

Does anyone know how many tokens are inside the fox 38 170mm rhythm fork that comes standard on the slash+ 9.7?

Two on a small with 27.5 wheel.

 

[Mteam]

It seems like many Slash+ owners have experienced this, but nobody agrees on the cause. My hunch is that the "linear" shock setting is closer to digressive.

People are reporting this with different drive trains and shocks, so that reduces the variables other than the frame.

In my case, it also happened on my 1st ride on the bike, 1yr ago, on a very small drop, with an aftermarket vivid air & 30% sag. I added air and HBO and was fine on the rest of that ride (which did include some bottom outs, just no more loud cracking sounds). Afterwards I added 2 volume spacers and went back to 30% sag, it's been fine since.

I've had a few more rides now, and the noise hasn't recurred, so not sure what it was, but it seems fine now.

Quite liking the magic carpet ride from the rear suspension, allows you to maintain so much speed through rough bits.

Current weight is just over 21kg with pedals.

I Don't think I could get it much lighter without switching to unsuitable tyres,although the t type 70 mech and cassette are pretty weighty, but they do shift very well.

I Will wear the cassette out then decide whether to just buy the same again, or go for a lighter shimano xt setup.

Pretty pleased with the bike, it's good to be back on a big travel enduro bike after a few years on the fuel exe.

I need to decide whether to buy an end cap to allow me to run the 360wh battery from the exe, or whether in reality I would never use it.

It's great to have the options of 160wh,360wh,580wh, or 740wh battery capacities.

 

[Emailsucks98]

Pretty pleased with the bike, it's good to be back on a big travel enduro bike after a few years on the fuel exe.

I need to decide whether to buy an end cap to allow me to run the 360wh battery from the exe, or whether in reality I would never use it.

Let's see some pics!

Mine just got warrantied into an HPR60. I'm (again) really impressed with the warranty/support through my local Trek store. Haven't ridden just yet, recovering from an ankle sprain.

For me the main use of the 360 battery is road trips, where I can go multiple rides without charging by swapping batteries. We have a camper with solar/inverter that can charge one battery while I ride the other. My partner (with a fixed battery Botsch) is envious of the removable battery.

 

[mike172]

Let's see some pics!

Mine just got warrantied into an HPR60. I'm (again) really impressed with the warranty/support through my local Trek store. Haven't ridden just yet, recovering from an ankle sprain.

f me, over 1x month waiting for my warranty claim now.

I think they hate me.

 

[Mteam]

Let's see some pics!

Mine just got warrantied into an HPR60. I'm (again) really impressed with the warranty/support through my local Trek store. Haven't ridden just yet, recovering from an ankle sprain.

For me the main use of the 360 battery is road trips, where I can go multiple rides without charging by swapping batteries. We have a camper with solar/inverter that can charge one battery while I ride the other. My partner (with a fixed battery Botsch) is envious of the removable battery.

Apologies for the none scenic garage shot.

It now has hope tech 4 v4 brakes fitted

 

[Mteam]

It seems like many Slash+ owners have experienced this, but nobody agrees on the cause. My hunch is that the "linear" shock setting is closer to digressive.

People are reporting this with different drive trains and shocks, so that reduces the variables other than the frame.

In my case, it also happened on my 1st ride on the bike, 1yr ago, on a very small drop, with an aftermarket vivid air & 30% sag. I added air and HBO and was fine on the rest of that ride (which did include some bottom outs, just no more loud cracking sounds). Afterwards I added 2 volume spacers and went back to 30% sag, it's been fine since.

I think I've worked out what is causing the crack sound, I can repoduce it at will now.

So, I think the lower shock mount bolt is under sized for the eyelet of the shock, just like of the fuel exe. This means that when the bolt is not fully tight there is a bit of play between the shock eyelet and the bolt allowing the shock to move up and down. When tightened up fully this play goes away for normal suspension movement, but it is still possible to mave the shock by stronger/sharper force,and it's this movement that causes the crack sound.

What this means is that if the shock is fitted to the bike with the bike frame suspended in a work stand, the shock is clamped by the lower mount in 'high' position. Gentle bouncing on thr suspension is not enough force to allow the shock to settle into the correct position, but when you hit the first bigger hit of the ride the shock very quickly settles into the lower position with a crack sound.Once settled into this position you won't hear the crack again.

You can reproduce this by forcibly extending the rear wheel down by lifting to back end of the bike off the ground and whacking the back wheel with your hand to push the back wheel down, then drop the back end of the bike back down onto the ground and you'll hear the crack sound as the shock settles back into the correct position.

We need Pinner machine shop to produce a correctly sized bolt like they did for the fuel exe.

 

[ibc]

Hey crew, looking to buy an ex-rental 2024 Slash+ with brand new HPR60 motor (replaced under warranty). Well maintained, lots of new parts, 580wh battery at 91%, good history with the shop and they'll make sure i'm looked after. I'm pretty mechanically minded and do most servicing myself so have given it a good lookover.. but, anything specific to the Slash+ or power system I should look for/check over?

Already noticed the odd "cracking sound" on the test ride as described the last 2 pages, only happened once and suspect Mteam might be on the money as it had just had the shock reinstalled whilst up in a stand.

 

[ebikerider]

I think I've worked out what is causing the crack sound, I can repoduce it at will now.

So, I think the lower shock mount bolt is under sized for the eyelet of the shock, just like of the fuel exe. This means that when the bolt is not fully tight there is a bit of play between the shock eyelet and the bolt allowing the shock to move up and down. When tightened up fully this play goes away for normal suspension movement, but it is still possible to mave the shock by stronger/sharper force,and it's this movement that causes the crack sound.

What this means is that if the shock is fitted to the bike with the bike frame suspended in a work stand, the shock is clamped by the lower mount in 'high' position. Gentle bouncing on thr suspension is not enough force to allow the shock to settle into the correct position, but when you hit the first bigger hit of the ride the shock very quickly settles into the lower position with a crack sound.Once settled into this position you won't hear the crack again.

You can reproduce this by forcibly extending the rear wheel down by lifting to back end of the bike off the ground and whacking the back wheel with your hand to push the back wheel down, then drop the back end of the bike back down onto the ground and you'll hear the crack sound as the shock settles back into the correct position.

We need Pinner machine shop to produce a correctly sized bolt like they did for the fuel exe.

Are the lower bolts the same size (Slash and EXE)?

 

[Mteam]

Are the lower bolts the same size (Slash and EXE)?

They're the same diameter, but the bolt on the slash is a lot shorter. I did take the Pinner bolt off my fuel exe in the hope os using it on the slash but it's too long.

 

[Mteam]

Already noticed the odd "cracking sound" on the test ride as described the last 2 pages, only happened once and suspect Mteam might be on the money as it had just had the shock reinstalled whilst up in a stand.

Interestingly the service manual for the bike does state to torque all the suspension bolts up to final torque with the bike on the ground, so that the suspension is not drooping.

 

[ebikerider]

Anyone thought about fitting a 225x75mm trunnion to the Slash+? Or in other words, has anyone got one in their stash pile and could you see if it fits/has bottom out clearance?

 

[Emailsucks98]

Hey crew, looking to buy an ex-rental 2024 Slash+ with brand new HPR60 motor but, anything specific to the Slash+ or power system I should look for/check over?

I just got updated to an HPR60 and based on one ride, it seems to be a lot more efficient than the HPR50. 2000' vert in trail mode consumed 33% battery, I think that might have been 45-50% with my previous motor. I have a sprained ankle and just put on heavier tires so not doing the bike any favors.

My 580wh battery is at 92% (bought the bike in Feb '25).

If you trust the shop and they're giving any sort of warranty on the motor, I'd do it. No motor warranty, maybe not....depends on the price & your appetite.

Agreed, seems Mteam has solved the CRACK mystery!

 

[Doomanic]

Where are these ex-rental bikes for sale?

 

[ibc]

Anyone thought about fitting a 225x75mm trunnion to the Slash+? Or in other words, has anyone got one in their stash pile and could you see if it fits/has bottom out clearance?

225 trunnion is +20mm eye to eye, which is a fair bit and probably not advisable if it even fits. Going into void warranty & DIY territory here, but if you could machine your own lower shock mount to drop the lower mount by -10mm, this would result in +10mm top position relative to stock which would probably fit (but mess with geo and pedalling characteristics a bit), and approx the same top eyelet ending position at full use of 75mm stroke. Resulting travel is ~196mm (not taking changes in leverage ratio into account), but note that the extra travel mostly comes from the bike starting higher/taller at full extension, rather than pushing the top mount further down at bottom-out. Offset bushing lower would help a tiny bit (2-3mm) with this. Nope, this is all incorrect.

You'd obviously also need different mounting hardware for trunnion.

(..) If you trust the shop and they're giving any sort of warranty on the motor, I'd do it. No motor warranty, maybe not....depends on the price & your appetite.

Thanks - I'll need to check re motor warranty but I do have trust for them, they've been great in the past & I know they look after their fleet well. Initially I went in with intention of buying a Rail+ as the Slashes they had were HPR50, but this bike hadn't been listed yet & is a good buy.

Where are these ex-rental bikes for sale?

Derby Tasmania, AU

 

[ebikerider]

225 trunnion is +20mm eye to eye, which is a fair bit and probably not advisable if it even fits. Going into void warranty & DIY territory here, but if you could machine your own lower shock mount to drop the lower mount by -10mm, this would result in +10mm top position relative to stock which would probably fit (but mess with geo and pedalling characteristics a bit), and approx the same top eyelet ending position at full use of 75mm stroke. Resulting travel is ~196mm (not taking changes in leverage ratio into account), but note that the extra travel mostly comes from the bike starting higher/taller at full extension, rather than pushing the top mount further down at bottom-out. Offset bushing lower would help a tiny bit (2-3mm) with this.

You'd obviously also need different mounting hardware for trunnion.

Thanks - I'll need to check re motor warranty but I do have trust for them, they've been great in the past & I know they look after their fleet well. Initially I went in with intention of buying a Rail+ as the Slashes they had were HPR50, but this bike hadn't been listed yet & is a good buy.

Derby Tasmania, AU

Only a 5mm difference in overall length 230x65 standard mount vs 225x75mm trunnion. Which would also help with geo if running a 29 rear wheel (as this does fit with zero clearance issues). Just the clearance at bottom out needs to be clarified. I'll let you know if you're interested.

 

[ibc]

Only a 5mm difference in overall length 230x65 standard mount vs 225x75mm trunnion. Which would also help with geo if running a 29 rear wheel (as this does fit with zero clearance issues). Just the clearance at bottom out needs to be clarified. I'll let you know if you're interested.

Oh completely disregard what I said then. Not sure why I thought it was the same as 250mm eyelet? Definitely interested to hear whether that works.