Crestline RS 181.2 thread – builds, reviews, technical info

When I take all the air out of the shock and compress the linkage fully there's about 10mm of unused travel in LT and about 5mm in ST.

Can someone confirm this is the same on their bike too? Or explain why this would be? What am I missing?

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Did you get this sorted? I have bottomed mine out while riding, but honestly didnt notice this when I had the air out. Did you try to compress it further by sitting on it with the air out?

If you want, I will go let the air out of mine and compare. Im curious now 😂
 
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Did you get this sorted? I have bottomed mine out while riding, but honestly didnt notice this when I had the air out. Did you try to compress it further by sitting on it with the air out?

If you want, I will go let the air out of mine and compare. Im curious now 😂
Go ahead and try! I didn't bounce on it hard with the air out just compressed with my hand.

I think I was just at the just the end part of the stroke where the bottom out bumper starts and didn't put enough force to push through it to have the O ring reach full travel / end of stroke.
 
Go ahead and try! I didn't bounce on it hard with the air out just compressed with my hand.

I think I was just at the just the end part of the stroke where the bottom out bumper starts and didn't put enough force to push through it to have the O ring reach full travel / end of stroke.
I cycled the shock as I released the air and it sat at about 8mm. When I gently sat on it, it stopped at 4mm.
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I wasnt able to ride today, so I had to work the bike in somehow lol
 
I cycled the shock as I released the air and it sat at about 8mm. When I gently sat on it, it stopped at 4mm. View attachment 183761View attachment 183762

I wasnt able to ride today, so I had to work the bike in somehow lol
Yep same thing. Just sitting on the bottom out bumper. Between the tokens, HBO and bumper a lot of force needed to get full travel!
 
My Reserve Fillmore valves keep leadking sealant of the button of the valves, no matter I tihgt or loose it. Happen to both wheels. I bought it new btw and I don't see any tape damaged.

The way I install the valves is I punch a small hole over the tape to let the valves through. I never have such issue with other wheelsets. Any advice...
 
whats everyone’s weights and sag on the vivid coil?

I’m 155lbs on rh3
Mine came with 500lb spring and I’m just under 20% sag on that. Ordered a 450lb to try out. Wondering if I actually need 400lb.

Odd because on my amflow I’m on a 525lb spring (ext storia v4) to get 28-30% sag at the shock. Guess the vpp makes a big difference there.
Im 78kg on a 450 spring,rides nice,
 
My Reserve Fillmore valves keep leadking sealant of the button of the valves, no matter I tihgt or loose it. Happen to both wheels. I bought it new btw and I don't see any tape damaged.

The way I install the valves is I punch a small hole over the tape to let the valves through. I never have such issue with other wheelsets. Any advice...
I love the Fillmore valves. Try holding the tire/wheel "flat" and shake up and down to get the sealant to try and seal at the valve. Usually a couple of shakes and they seal up nicely.
 
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Now that the DJI Avinox embargo has lifted and the first bikes / frames are finally shipping, it feels like the right time to start a proper dedicated thread for the Crestline RS 181.2.

The previous thread was mainly focused on pre-order timing, early leaks, and speculation.

This one can be for actual owner and builder info:
  • complete bike and frameset deliveries
  • real weights
  • geometry / sizing impressions
  • suspension setup
  • motor / battery performance
  • reliability and issues
  • aftermarket build options
  • long-term ride feedback

Quick RS 181.2 summary​

The RS 181.2 (“Dot 2”) is Crestline’s latest long-travel eMTB built around the DJI Avinox M2S drive system. Crestline says the frame has been refined around the BB / motor area to reduce bulk and weight while keeping their CAT 5 DH strength rating. Cable routing is cleaner than the previous RS generation, and the bike remains dual-crown compatible.

Key platform details​

  • high modulus carbon frame
  • adjustable rear travel: 161 mm or 181 mm
  • shock: 205 x 65 mm
  • compatible with 160–180 mm single crown or 180–200 mm dual crown forks
  • mixed wheel or full 29er options on all sizes
  • modular dropout system:
    • 27.5 rear: 435–460 mm chainstay (5 mm steps)
    • 29 rear: 450–465 mm chainstay depending on size / dropout
  • removable bolt-in battery without removing motor
  • 56mm head tube (reach adjust headset compatible)

DJI Avinox M2S system​

  • M2S motor: up to 150 Nm torque and 1,500 W peak power
  • motor weight: approx. 2.6 kg
  • quieter updated gear design vs previous generation
  • 600 Wh, 700 Wh or 800 Wh removable battery options
  • fast charging (800 Wh to full in about 2h 25m claimed)
  • 2” OLED display with navigation / telemetry
  • wireless bar remote and app integration
  • built-in GPS / IMU / barometer / security features

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Geometry (RH2 / RH3 / RH4)​

  • reach: 450 / 480 / 505 mm
  • HTA: 63.5°
  • STA: 78.2 / 78.5 / 78.8°
  • BB height: 351 mm
  • seat tube: 420 / 450 / 480 mm

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Plaid Edition frameset​

  • limited production (150 per color)
  • Alpine Chalk or Raw Carbon
  • includes frame, Avinox system, charger, display / remote, speed sensor, chain guide, axle, headset, AXS power cord and shock depending on spec
  • Pricing around $6.7k

Forged Series One frameset

  • Limited production (50 units)
  • Forged Carbon finish
  • EXT Arma V4 / EXT Aria
  • Pricing around $7.9

Team Edition complete bike​

  • Official information
  • limited production run 150 units
  • Raw Carbon finish
  • Fork: RockShox ZEB Ultimate 180mm
  • Shox: RockShox Vivid 205 x 65mm
  • Brakes: SRAM Maven Ultimate
  • T-Type wireless drivetrain
  • Wheels: Reserve 30 carbon
  • Handlebar: Up 800mm 35mm
  • Stem: One Up 42mm
  • Dropper: One Up V3 RH2 (150mm), RH3 (180mm), RH4 (210mm)
  • Saddle: Fizik Terra Ridon
  • Drivetrain: Wireless T-type 12 speed
  • Cranks: SRAM X0 ISIS 155mm
  • Chain: SRAM X0
  • Cassette: CS XS 1299 T-TYPE 10-52 BLK
  • Deraileur: GX Eagle AXS T-TYPE
  • Pricing: $11,999 – $12,269


Would be great to hear from anyone who:
  • already received a frame / bike
  • weighed frame / complete build
  • tested both 161 and 181 settings
  • has info on real motor noise, battery range, and durability

Looking forward to seeing actual builds and ride reports rather than guesswork.


--== PHOTO GALLERY ==--

Plaid Edition frameset

Alpine Chalk
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Raw Carbon
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Forged Series frameset

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Team Edition complete bike

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Has anyone made a Bash guard , for under the motor?
On the Crestline 181.2
 
I love the Filmore valves. Try holding the tire/wheel "flat" and shake up and down to get the sealant to try and seal at the valve. Usually a couple of shakes and they seal up nicely.

I too am a huge fan of the Filmore's.

If you hold the wheel so that you have the valve stem at the bottom and allow the sealant to pool up just below the valve stem, then quickly flip over the wheel where the stem is up top, the sealant will fall on the valve stem and seal it up tightly.
 
Got 002 all together. First ride today on some pretty mild trails. The M2s is amazing, makes my EP801 feel like farm equipment. Need to do some tweaking on the suspension, suggested pressure on the fork seemed to high, lowered it alittle bit. Suggested pressure on the shock was too low, but I may have ran it too high. I have to lower that as well. 460mm stays feel perfect, I don't have to ride over the front end to generate traction up front, even with the tall stack/bar height. Excited to get on some gnarlier terrain.

EDIT: Thought I'd add a little more color. Saddle feels too short, I think I may just need to slide it back in the rails. I have a fender and oneup edc carrier on order. I got the buggered Ridewrap, so waiting on the replacement ridewrap to cover more of the top tube. Those oneup goldstone grips are great. I thought they were going to be too skinny for my hands, they're not. The thick flared ends are a nice touch, almost feels like you can push your hands against the ends to give yourself some more stability.
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The Deuce
 
Frothin to announce Lindsey rides like a dream and I am feeling sharper on the tools than ever. Much like T's prophecy foretold!

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75 miles in and just loving this thing while getting used to the amazing ride, handling, and capabilities.

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So quiet and smooth, and so much power I cranked down the torque to 100nm/750w for Auto mode which I am riding in mostly so far.

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Without fine tuning, the ride is quite nimble while also gobbling up everything in its path. It's comfy, yet sharp and agile. This girl likes to drift too!

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Overall I can easily say she is my favorite bike ever, and we're still getting acquainted! Plenty of saddle time and fine tuning to come.. enjoy those Crestline's all, I know you will!
 
So I made a couple changes, the headset, from the CC40 to the Hellbender 70 because it comes with better bearings and seals
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and the chainring from e-13 36t to Garbaruk 34t.
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It’ll lose a few grams with those changes. Then I think I’ll try out an SRAM XO 7sp DH cassette and derailleur that I have for park days.
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To lose even more unsprung weight off the back wheel. And I have the 200mm rear linkage kit on the way to go with my Fox 40 as well. So stoked!
 
Can anyone share settings for installation SRAM AXS? This is my first experience with electronic drivetrain and I pulled the specs for the RS181.2 off the SRAM website.

Tried multiple times w/ 120 links (I’m RH3 450 cs), 21T cog, A setting for 36t ring……and it’s unrideable. It looks like the top derailleur cog is too tight to the cassette but not 100% sure what the issue is. Sounds like it’s grinding somewhere.

Any help would be appreciated!
 
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This thing is a giggle machine so far after coming from a gen 3 Levo. I need to tweak modes to confirm, but I think the headline is not the power, but the torque, at least on tight single track. Much quieter under power than my Levo, but I think I got a loud Brose.

Manitou Dorado Pro with coil
Vorsprung Telum
Hope GR4/TR4 Magura 220/203
SRAM EX-1 8 speed
OneUp dropper and handlebar
Praxis 150mm
Waiting on a wheelset, running the Onyx/Nox from the Levo
 
So I made a couple changes, the headset, from the CC40 to the Hellbender 70 because it comes with better bearings and seals View attachment 183847and the chainring from e-13 36t to Garbaruk 34t. View attachment 183848View attachment 183849It’ll lose a few grams with those changes. Then I think I’ll try out an SRAM XO 7sp DH cassette and derailleur that I have for park days.View attachment 183850View attachment 183851

To lose even more unsprung weight off the back wheel. And I have the 200mm rear linkage kit on the way to go with my Fox 40 as well. So stoked!
Is weight the main reason for changing to the 34 tooth?
 
Can anyone share settings for installation SRAM AXS? This is my first experience with electronic drivetrain and I pulled the specs for the RS181.2 off the SRAM website.

Tried multiple times w/ 120 links (I’m RH3 450 cs), 21T cog, A setting for 36t ring……and it’s unrideable. It looks like the top derailleur cog is too tight to the cassette but not 100% sure what the issue is. Sounds like it’s grinding somewhere.

Any help would be appreciated!
Did you use the app? Enter bike info and it tells you how many links and what setup key to select.

That said I’m having an annoying issue with my chain skipping randomly when I put the power down. Almost caused me to lose control and go off the trail today.
 
Curious if it’s a noticeable difference going to a 34T chainring as far as terrain hitting the frame before the chainring. It looks like the stock 36T is going to take some hits and maybe reduce motor life. Would you need to go even smaller? Or maybe some bashguard on the frame is needed?
 
Did you use the app? Enter bike info and it tells you how many links and what setup key to select.

That said I’m having an annoying issue with my chain skipping randomly when I put the power down. Almost caused me to lose control and go off the trail today.
I just verified the settings from the website match the app for 2025 181.2. Everything was set up as recommended by SRAM 🤔

That said, I bought the AXS GX cassette/shifter/cassette on Pinkbike advertised as new, and it wasn’t. The seller deleted their profile, so might’ve gotten scammed. I replaced the cage but it’s no better.
 
I just verified the settings from the website match the app for 2025 181.2. Everything was set up as recommended by SRAM 🤔

That said, I bought the AXS GX cassette/shifter/cassette on Pinkbike advertised as new, and it wasn’t. The seller deleted their profile, so might’ve gotten scammed. I replaced the cage but it’s no better.
Ooooo, that doesn’t sound good. Sorry to hear.
 
Can anyone share settings for installation SRAM AXS? This is my first experience with electronic drivetrain and I pulled the specs for the RS181.2 off the SRAM website.

Tried multiple times w/ 120 links (I’m RH3 450 cs), 21T cog, A setting for 36t ring……and it’s unrideable. It looks like the top derailleur cog is too tight to the cassette but not 100% sure what the issue is. Sounds like it’s grinding somewhere.

Any help would be appreciated!

Those settings are correct, post a few pictures of your cassette, etc so we can see if anything looks off.
 
Still another month waiting for my forged frame. On an unrelated note, I just finished building this beauty over the weekend 😎

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If I were building a pinion bike without a motor, this would be it. Those are dope AF. Met a guy in Whistler riding one, he's a team rider and the concept behind the design is both fascinating and practical. Looks awesome!!
 
Well I f’d up big time and stripped out the threaded insert for the bash guard. I assume I can epoxy the insert back in? Anyone have any experience with this? Any specific type of epoxy?

I did email Troydon just now so I’ll wait to hear his advice too.

Be warned, don’t be a caveman like me! Use a torque wrench on a low setting or just go finger tight.

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Well I f’d up big time and stripped out the threaded insert for the bash guard. I assume I can epoxy the insert back in? Anyone have any experience with this? Any specific type of epoxy?

I did email Troydon just now so I’ll wait to hear his advice too.

Be warned, don’t be a caveman like me! Use a torque wrench on a low setting or just go finger tight.

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That's a bummer, but I'm guessing some good epoxy will have you up and running in no time. Thanks for giving us cavemen the heads up.
 
Well I f’d up big time and stripped out the threaded insert for the bash guard. I assume I can epoxy the insert back in? Anyone have any experience with this? Any specific type of epoxy?

I did email Troydon just now so I’ll wait to hear his advice too.

Be warned, don’t be a caveman like me! Use a torque wrench on a low setting or just go finger tight.

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mine did that, i just glued it back lol
 
So I made a couple changes, the headset, from the CC40 to the Hellbender 70 because it comes with better bearings and seals View attachment 183847and the chainring from e-13 36t to Garbaruk 34t. View attachment 183848View attachment 183849It’ll lose a few grams with those changes. Then I think I’ll try out an SRAM XO 7sp DH cassette and derailleur that I have for park days.View attachment 183850View attachment 183851

To lose even more unsprung weight off the back wheel. And I have the 200mm rear linkage kit on the way to go with my Fox 40 as well. So stoked!
Very curious how the Avinox motor pairs with SRAM 7 speed derailleur/cassette!! Please keep us updated, especially with regards to any diminished climbing abilities on the steeps.
 
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