Ok what's ya weight weenie e-bike hacks

Second this.
I Third this. I run a 34T alloy chainring on the SRAM transmission on my DJI motor. It works perfect.

I'm at 300km and I'm finding I get very little wear on the chain and cassette. The chain shows zero stretch, and teeth on the cassette still look new. But the alloy chainring, is showing very minor wear, but has over 1000km on it it, as I had it on the Merida before. But at less than AUD$10 for the chainring. I'm just going to change it every 2000km. I keep a spare in stock at home.
 
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Loose weight in the gym , diet and keep the mass down low on the bike , simple and cheap
fit diet GIF
My Levo SL is 16.9kgs. I spent a lot of time and money getting it light, without sacrificing performance. I can still take it down the DH trails without fear of breaking something, but can lift it over a fence with relative ease.

It’s in the shop for a new motor at the moment, so I rode my old 2017 Stumpy 6-Fattie. First time in about a year - poor bike has been abandoned! Converted to tubes for storage… so I only had to put a new AXS battery in the derailleur and a little tyre top up, and was good to go.

The difference is about 3.5kg between my Levo SL and Stumpy, and it makes such a difference when riding. So much easier to handle, jump and generally felt great to ride (on flat and downhill!!). Having no assistance was a bummer though!

I can’t imagine doing back to a 25kg bike, or even 21kg to be honest. I don’t think it matters what I weigh… the heavier bike is still more difficult to handle. For what it’s worth, I’m about 78kg, 6ft 2” tall, and in decent enough shape.
 
Second this. I'm thinking getting a woolf tooth alloy chain ring which is way lighter than stock steel ones but wondering if it will hold with Bosch gen5 after the 100 Nm upgrade. Smashing it on Rocks is not something to worry on Bosch ebikes due to clearance

I’m running a 48T Wolf Tooth chainring on my 60V Bafang powered EMTB . Circa 2,500 klms so far on original GX chain (with extra links) and SRAM 11-50 cassette without any problems. So I doubt a 100nm Bosch is going to trouble it.

I tend to think any wear on an alloy chainring will have more to do with the conditions you ride in rather than power and torque.
 
Thinner grips, switch to good composite pedals, experiment with lighter casing tires (if you're serious), good carbon wheel set, titanium bolts, etc. RockShox is lighter than Fox but you already have a Zeb.

Tbh I doubt you'll find any revolutionary answers in here
 
A good long thoughtful dump.
A haircut
Toenail trim
Cut the pockets out of your shorts
Only use 1 pedal, prob clip —-less
Cut your bars to 400mm
Fill tires with hydrogen
Ditch tires altogether (rim job?)
Remove every other spoke
Relocate rear brake to bin and use your shoe sideways on top rear tire against the frame.


Then win everything
 
I'm coming off a ~57# voima with 190 zeb, and goal for the 181.2 is to drop 10#, but fully expecting I'll come up a few short.

Stumbled across another forum post about the Manitou Mezzer Pro which is a 37mm stanchion fork, so if the Zeb feels like it's barely enough, probably not a good option for you. Zeb is about 2300g and the Mezzer is 2030g. I've been running a DSD Runt on the zeb, so thinking the Messer and the dual air system should feel pretty familiar.

I'm also going with an e13 9/46t casssette, and thinking I'll drop to a 34t front in hopes I can eek a bit more range out of the battery than the 36t. I only drained the 750wh battery on the old bike a couple of times, so thought the 600wh was worth a try.
 
I'm coming off a ~57# voima with 190 zeb, and goal for the 181.2 is to drop 10#, but fully expecting I'll come up a few short.

Stumbled across another forum post about the Manitou Mezzer Pro which is a 37mm stanchion fork, so if the Zeb feels like it's barely enough, probably not a good option for you. Zeb is about 2300g and the Mezzer is 2030g. I've been running a DSD Runt on the zeb, so thinking the Messer and the dual air system should feel pretty familiar.

I'm also going with an e13 9/46t casssette, and thinking I'll drop to a 34t front in hopes I can eek a bit more range out of the battery than the 36t. I only drained the 750wh battery on the old bike a couple of times, so thought the 600wh was worth a try.
Yourl be close with a 600wh.
 
A good long thoughtful dump.
A haircut
Toenail trim
Cut the pockets out of your shorts
Only use 1 pedal, prob clip —-less
Cut your bars to 400mm
Fill tires with hydrogen
Ditch tires altogether (rim job?)
Remove every other spoke
Relocate rear brake to bin and use your shoe sideways on top rear tire against the frame.


Then win everything
You mock, but i have one of the lightest full power 180mm fully capable e- enduro bikes on the planet and its fucking glorious.
 
You mock, but i have one of the lightest full power 180mm fully capable e- enduro bikes on the planet and its fucking glorious.
I was making a joke, yes.
Mocking? No…..
I’m happy for you and your glorious bike.
I don’t weigh anything bike related, it’s never added to my fun.
 
I've changed components on a couple of bikes, with the same goals. As mentioned, swapping tires to the lightest casings and most narrow widths that still meet your needs is most straightforward, and can yield substantial weight reduction. Depending on your dropper post, switching to a lighter model with the minimum travel you use can be helpful. I switched from a 180mm Fox transfer to a 150mm OneUp, and saved 0.456 lb. I also changed Maven Silver calipers for Motive Ultimate, and saved 0.462 lb for the pair. With riding weight of 160 lb and a 41lb SL bike, the Motives provide more than sufficient stopping power, and much more modulation. Other considerations would be the cassette (model, and maybe smaller range), downsizing rotor(s), and finding the lightest saddle you like (carbon WTB Volt is 165g).
 
I run Renthal push on BMX grips. I do it because they have a lot of cushion. But because they don't have the plastic and the collar and all that they save about a 100 grams over slip-on grips.
On a cost per gram basis their a heck of a deal and I think they actually work better.
It is a bit of a pain in the butt when you need to slide something on your bars and you got to remove the grip.
 
If your trying to loose weight on the Turbo Levo 4 , I am afraid the only thing that works is :)


Or buy a


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Here's one for Plums.

Wolfcarbon Bosch bash plate saves 46 grams.

My L Wild with dual coil, dual DH rims, dual DH tires, electric shifting & 200mm electronic dropper, pedals and sealant with 600wh battery is now at 48.6#s/ 22kgs.

Plums, you need to send me those Ti motor mounts. Add those and remove my sag indicator, slap some Ti hardware on it and I'll be under 48#s for sure.
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My weight weenie eBike hacks:
  • Espresso :20 before ride. Usually saves me 1-2lbs.
  • Riding eBikes %50 less often
It's funny. I have systematically moved any weight I could off the bike, and onto my body. The lighter bike means I can throw the bike around, or move the bike when I'm in the air, so much easier. I just feel I can control the bike better.

Even my water bottle, I keep completely empty, and run a camelbak. I don't strap a spare tube to the frame, but keep it in my pack. Removed the under seat toolkit, and also put it in my pack.
 
Here's one for Plums.

Wolfcarbon Bosch bash plate saves 46 grams.

My L Wild with dual coil, dual DH rims, dual DH tires, electric shifting & 200mm electronic dropper, pedals and sealant with 600wh battery is now at 48.6#s/ 22kgs.

Plums, you need to send me those Ti motor mounts. Add those and remove my sag indicator, slap some Ti hardware on it and I'll be under 48#s for sure.
View attachment 181101View attachment 181102View attachment 181103View attachment 181104
Cools a bit on the light side for a bash guard. I would also like to see a carbon/kevlar bash. Carbon its self is not the ideal material.

PS I haven't changed mine out from the plastic. I spend too much time bashing it to consider a carbon one and i cannot be farked making more own carbon/kevlar one.
 
Cools a bit on the light side for a bash guard. I would also like to see a carbon/kevlar bash. Carbon its self is not the ideal material.

PS I haven't changed mine out from the plastic. I spend too much time bashing it to consider a carbon one and i cannot be farked making more own carbon/kevlar one.

I bought it hoping it would be stronger than stock and thick like the MX ones. It's not thicker, maybe it's stronger? But it's here so I mounted it, guess we'll see.
 
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I’m glad I only saw this thread now because my weight-wheanie-persona would have been triggered when I was unable to deal with it. Some good ideas in here btw.

I installed the carbon Era cranks on both EMTBs, which I also have magnetic peddles. I considered the Dev5 titanium cranks but those were very expensive.

I then researched the Era carbon cranks and noticed that they were lighter than the titanium Dev5’s. I also watched a YouTube review on the Era crank where the “testers” tried to destroy them. I was impressed.

Apparently there is a new method of moulding the inserts into the carbon crank that can withstand the abuse and multiple peddle strikes. Besides being slightly cheaper and lighter than the titanium Dev5’s …I was sold.
 
One tip is check your cable lengths. I was able to replace controller cable of my Wild size M from 1500mm to 1000mm. Motor power cable from 400mm to 300mm. This saved about 25g and in theory may even increase performance.

Replace Bosch rim magnet with 15x6x6mm neodym ring magnet. That will save 20g unsprung rotating mass😁
 
Has anyone run an Enve M6 wheelset on an Amflow or Pivot Amp’d or similar motor?
 
I've changed components on a couple of bikes, with the same goals. As mentioned, swapping tires to the lightest casings and most narrow widths that still meet your needs is most straightforward, and can yield substantial weight reduction. Depending on your dropper post, switching to a lighter model with the minimum travel you use can be helpful. I switched from a 180mm Fox transfer to a 150mm OneUp, and saved 0.456 lb. I also changed Maven Silver calipers for Motive Ultimate, and saved 0.462 lb for the pair. With riding weight of 160 lb and a 41lb SL bike, the Motives provide more than sufficient stopping power, and much more modulation. Other considerations would be the cassette (model, and maybe smaller range), downsizing rotor(s), and finding the lightest saddle you like (carbon WTB Volt is 165g).
Did you keep the Maven levers?
 
Before I rant on about weight weenie parts. I refuse to compromise performance.
As an example, If a heavier coil shock is what's required, that's what i'll use.

What I am interested in is all your weight weenie hacks that dont compromise performance... or increase performance.

So far my weight weenie hacks consist of the following
Light weight carbon frame with different battery options. That's probably the best hack.
PS I'm not interested in mid power bikes.

400wh battery, Saves 1kg from 600wh and 2kg from 800wh
Bontrager RSL one piece handle bar/stem Saves 200 grams from bar/stem combo's
Enve Foundation wheelset. Saves around 300 grams from a equivalent alloy wheel set. Plus these wheels are super freaken strong. They take a beating so its also a performance upgrade too.

That's about it for weight reductions bits, The rest is standard.
I'm about to dive into titanium bolts. Probably can save another 100 grams on bolts.
The front chainring is steel so i can save another 100grams there.
I need to start looking at seats too, maybe lighter pedals.
Then long term i plan on designing and 3d printing some TI cranks.

Current bike weight with 400wh inc pedals is 21.8kg.
I'd be delighted it i could get that around the 21kg mark

To answer the question that inevitably will be asked. "why bother reducing weight on an already heavy e-bike"
The answer is the lighter it is, the more playful it is and the more it feels like an mtb.


Bicycle tire Bicycle Bicycle frame Bicycle wheel Crankset
What ENVE Wheels you running and did you consider the M6's? (1600grams)
 
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