2025 Norco Sight VLT CX

My size S4 C1. Made the following mods and she’s perfect:
•Hayes 220 rotor in front
•Moved Shimano 203 front rotor to back
•Swapped in Kiox 400c display (see post above about bezel/surround from Norco)
•Super Deluxe Ultimate coil shock
•PNW carbon 38mm riser bars
•3M glossy vinyl wrap over top tube (I believe the all white top tube makes her look more proportional.
•Powermore range extender (we have huge vert out the door)

I am 6’ 0” 210 lbs, and the reach on an S4 is a nonissue for me. IMO Norco has it right. Spring rate on the coil shock is 500 lbs.

Previous emtb was a gen 1 Transition Repeater.

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Hi Peep. I created a Norco Range VLT thread, so feel free to include your Range comments there too. There aren’t as many people posting about the new Range as yet, so would appreciate your feedback. Thanks!
 
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Told myself I would resist going long shock/fork and enjoy the bike as-is for a while. Made it 3 days. It really rode great in stock form, but in my experience every bike I have long shocked has only gotten better so I could not resist any longer.

4 rides in (2 on new suspension), so far so good. Not really much to say that hasn't been covered here and in the reviews... super quiet indeed which is lovely. Mavens are an insane improvement from Codes. Not sure I'm sold on these Conti tires for my dry dusty trails, but will give them some more time. Thankful Norco specs long enough dropper posts on stock builds, refreshing to not have to immediately swap that out like with most bikes.

Yes my battery door is open, latch on the door was busted upon purchase. The shop I bought it from (was a used demo bike) has a replacement on order. For now I've been taping it shut, unfortunately forget to re-tape after taking it off the charger this ride.

I've been experimenting with running no handlebar controller for the bosch system. Anyone else going that route? I love the ultra simplicity of having absolutely nothing in the cockpit and just some LEDs on the top tube. Certainly can not switch modes amidst technical terrain, but I don't switch modes much anyway and I find removing the option only simplifies the equation.

The tape solution for the charger port door is arguably the better option vs. the OEM (pretty much my only gripe about this bike).

+1 for no mini remote. Our trails are winch and plummet, so the inconvenience of switching modes on the display is a minor price to pay for knowing I've not accidentally switched the motor off three pedal strokes before a big gap.
 
The tape solution for the charger port door is arguably the better option vs. the OEM (pretty much my only gripe about this bike).

+1 for no mini remote. Our trails are winch and plummet, so the inconvenience of switching modes on the display is a minor price to pay for knowing I've not accidentally switched the motor off three pedal strokes before a big gap.
FYI I asked my Norco dealer about the charger door and they were able to get an “updated” part from Norco. It has an ever so slightly larger tab… allegedly redesigned for durability. We shall see.

Definitely haven’t looked back since dropping the remote. Only real case for it to me would maybe be for walk mode, but I almost never use walk mode anyway. Generally, I’d say I strongly prefer the simplicity of not over thinking what mode I’m in.
 
FYI I asked my Norco dealer about the charger door and they were able to get an “updated” part from Norco. It has an ever so slightly larger tab… allegedly redesigned for durability. We shall see.

Definitely haven’t looked back since dropping the remote. Only real case for it to me would maybe be for walk mode, but I almost never use walk mode anyway. Generally, I’d say I strongly prefer the simplicity of not over thinking what mode I’m in.
Is it any easier to open? Holy hell, the Bikers Edge review was right… “only if your nickname was gorilla fingers” can you open it.
 
I like this bike better than the Rogue, even though they are very similar the builds come out lighter, quality is higher, Bosch powertrain...
 
Is it any easier to open? Holy hell, the Bikers Edge review was right… “only if your nickname was gorilla fingers” can you open it.
Cannot say because the original door was broken before I took ownership of the bike. I can say the new one is not a problem to open, takes a firm but very reasonable press. So maybe they did make a meaningful improvement! Install is a slight PITA, must drop the motor which means you must have replacement bushings for the motor bolts. But to their credit again, Norco included the bushings with the replacement door. Just a note to make sure you get those too if sourcing a new door.
 
Cannot say because the original door was broken before I took ownership of the bike. I can say the new one is not a problem to open, takes a firm but very reasonable press. So maybe they did make a meaningful improvement! Install is a slight PITA, must drop the motor which means you must have replacement bushings for the motor bolts. But to their credit again, Norco included the bushings with the replacement door. Just a note to make sure you get those too if sourcing a new door.

Norco hasn't gone to the "updated" motor mount hardware? I've seen reports of folks losing bushings on various Bosch equipped eMTBs, not just Norco.

Are these bushings a 1-time use? I had to drop my Shimano semi-regularly to do stuff on my prior bike...
 
Norco hasn't gone to the "updated" motor mount hardware? I've seen reports of folks losing bushings on various Bosch equipped eMTBs, not just Norco.

Are these bushings a 1-time use? I had to drop my Shimano semi-regularly to do stuff on my prior bike...
I can’t say really, all I know is they sent me two fresh bushings to use when installing the charger door, so I swapped them out. I can’t imagine how you would lose one? Unless you mean like literally just losing it in your shop while the bike is apart?

I’m fairly sure you could reuse the bushings in a pinch, there was no substantial deformation to my original bushings that I could tell. Just based on my one anecdotal experience…
 
I purchased a C1 in December and I have developed the same clunk that Jeff describes at the 12:00 mark of the video . Has anyone else experienced the rear shock clunk? I have removed the Super Deluxe Ultimate and cleaned and greased the mounting points and replaced and torqued with no fix.
 
Let's talk chainrings. There is something going on with the OEM spec that's probably good for folks to be aware of for when they're replacing or upgrading. I'd also like folk's input on this to understand more about the chainring we have and why.

Here's the basic issue:

The Bosch Gen 5 motor puts the chainring a bit further outboard than the previous Gen 4 did, so to achieve the same 55mm t-type chain line, the Gen 5 will need a smaller offset chainring.

The Gen 5 is referred to by Bosch as the "DU38", and SRAM indeed makes a specific DU38 chainring that has the reduced offset required.

The problem is that the DU38 chainring has a few mm's more offset still than the stock OEM, and it turns out this is actually a problem.

When I mounted the new XX DU38 chain ring there was a lot of noisy complaining from the drivetrain. When I switched back to the stock chain ring things immediately got quiet and smooth again. I think what's happening is that the idler pulley (which is very close to the chain ring) needs less offset than what SRAM is calling for with a 55 mm chain line.

In any event, the OEM chaining offset is exactly what this bike wants to have. The problem, however, is that I can't find any aftermarket chain rings out there that actually match this same offset.

I can't even seem to find the actual SRAM chain ring that the bike came with anywhere.

One thought would be to purchase an Avinox chainring (less offset) and use spacers to get it shimmed out in line with the idler, but who knows. Sure would be nice to be able to find something off the shelf that would fit.

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Let's talk chainrings. There is something going on with the OEM spec that's probably good for folks to be aware of for when they're replacing or upgrading. I'd also like folk's input on this to understand more about the chainring we have and why.

Here's the basic issue:

The Bosch Gen 5 motor puts the chainring a bit further outboard than the previous Gen 4 did, so to achieve the same 55mm t-type chain line, the Gen 5 will need a smaller offset chainring.

The Gen 5 is referred to by Bosch as the "DU38", and SRAM indeed makes a specific DU38 chainring that has the reduced offset required.

The problem is that the DU38 chainring has a few mm's more offset still than the stock OEM, and it turns out this is actually a problem.

When I mounted the new XX DU38 chain ring there was a lot of noisy complaining from the drivetrain. When I switched back to the stock chain ring things immediately got quiet and smooth again. I think what's happening is that the idler pulley (which is very close to the chain ring) needs less offset than what SRAM is calling for with a 55 mm chain line.

In any event, the OEM chaining offset is exactly what this bike wants to have. The problem, however, is that I can't find any aftermarket chain rings out there that actually match this same offset.

I can't even seem to find the actual SRAM chain ring that the bike came with anywhere.

One thought would be to purchase an Avinox chainring (less offset) and use spacers to get it shimmed out in line with the idler, but who knows. Sure would be nice to be able to find something off the shelf that would fit.

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100% the idler and how close it is to the chain ring. Norco went with a 52mm chain line that's listed in the parts diagram. Normally not a big deal, 52 or 55 mm, but with a high pivot and idler it is. If someone made a 55 mm CL idler that would solve this problem. That is, if you could fit one because the idler is captive in the chain stay vs. Forbidden where its more open.

Didn't you ask this about getting chainrings before?
 
100% the idler and how close it is to the chain ring. Norco went with a 52mm chain line that's listed in the parts diagram. Normally not a big deal, 52 or 55 mm, but with a high pivot and idler it is. If someone made a 55 mm CL idler that would solve this problem. That is, if you could fit one because the idler is captive in the chain stay vs. Forbidden where its more open.

Didn't you ask this about getting chainrings before?
I did but we didn't get to the bottom of it.

There's chainline and then there's the actual offset needed to achieve it given the specific motor and where it mounts the chainring.

The OEM chainring says 52mm chainline but it isn't clear which motor it's designed for (Gen 4 vs. Gen 5). I can't find any info on it on sram's website or the rest of the interwebs, but perhaps there are more capable humans than me.

Maybe this is a good one for the Ai bot!
 
I did but we didn't get to the bottom of it.

There's chainline and then there's the actual offset needed to achieve it given the specific motor and where it mounts the chainring.

The OEM chainring says 52mm chainline but it isn't clear which motor it's designed for (Gen 4 vs. Gen 5). I can't find any info on it on sram's website or the rest of the interwebs, but perhaps there are more capable humans than me.

Maybe this is a good one for the Ai bot!

There's a few factors at play... most bike manufacturers are moving to a 55 mm CL because of Transmission and DI2 and 55 CL "works" with mechanical too. So I'm not surprised if e-bike drive system manufacturers are doing the same, such as Bosch.

The OE chainring, in question, came on a Gen 5 CX and Norco lists the frame as 52 mm CL. So that all aligns. It's a combination of chain ring, spider and motor that determine the final CL. Just because the CR says 52 it may not be so... offset is what really would matters.

It looks like the Gen 5 motor has a wider "q-factor" at the output spline requiring a smaller offset chainring (compared to Gen4) to end up at the same 55 mm CL. From quick google search, 52 and 55 mm CL rings were available for Gen4. Maybe the 52mm market is way more limited for the Gen 5.

Put the gen 5 (55mm CL) chainring on your bike and use a steel rule and see if it aligns with the idler. I'm guessing its going to be a few mm outboard (the chainring).
 
There's a few factors at play... most bike manufacturers are moving to a 55 mm CL because of Transmission and DI2 and 55 CL "works" with mechanical too. So I'm not surprised if e-bike drive system manufacturers are doing the same, such as Bosch.

The OE chainring, in question, came on a Gen 5 CX and Norco lists the frame as 52 mm CL. So that all aligns. It's a combination of chain ring, spider and motor that determine the final CL. Just because the CR says 52 it may not be so... offset is what really would matters.

It looks like the Gen 5 motor has a wider "q-factor" at the output spline requiring a smaller offset chainring (compared to Gen4) to end up at the same 55 mm CL. From quick google search, 52 and 55 mm CL rings were available for Gen4. Maybe the 52mm market is way more limited for the Gen 5.

Put the gen 5 (55mm CL) chainring on your bike and use a steel rule and see if it aligns with the idler. I'm guessing its going to be a few mm outboard (the chainring).
Yeah the 55mm DU38 chainring looked about 2-3mm outboard of idler alignment. Not a big deal for overall chain line, but a big deal for an idler, which sits a lot closer.

I think an Avinox chainring with the appropriate spacers might be the ticket. (EDIT: nope, different mounting setup)
 
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Yeah the 55mm DU38 chainring looked about 2-3mm outboard of idler alignment. Not a big deal for overall chain line, but a big deal for an idler, which sits a lot closer.

I think an Avinox chainring with the appropriate spacers might be the ticket.
Are the DM standards the same, i.e. the spline?
 
@Greg Watts any idea which aftermarket chainrings can achieve a 52mm chainline on the Bosch CX Gen 5 equipped 2025 Norco Sight VLT CX?

Would it be possible to use a chainring designed for an Avinox motor with some spacers to achieve the correct offset?

Thanks!
 
@Greg Watts any idea which aftermarket chainrings can achieve a 52mm chainline on the Bosch CX Gen 5 equipped 2025 Norco Sight VLT CX? Would it be possible to use a chainring designed for an Avinox motor with some spacers to achieve the correct offset? Thanks!
This is a properly interesting puzzle you've stumbled into, and the community knowledge I've got lines up nicely with what you and @bmwpowere36m3 have been working through.

The core issue is clear: Norco specced the Sight VLT CX with a 52mm chainline, but SRAM's aftermarket DU38 (Gen 5 Bosch) chainrings are all built around a 55mm chainline. That 2-3mm difference is negligible for a normal drivetrain but obviously matters enormously when you've got an idler pulley sitting right there judging everything.

On the Avinox chainring idea, it's creative but there's a compatibility question. Both Avinox and Bosch Gen 5 use 104 BCD spider interfaces, but the direct mount spline pattern on the motor shaft is different between Bosch and Avinox, so you can't just bolt an Avinox ring straight onto your Bosch motor. You'd need a chainring that physically fits the Bosch Gen 5 spline but has the reduced offset you need.

There are a couple of leads worth chasing. The e*thirteen Helix Race E-Spec comes in a Bosch direct mount option, and while the one I've got data on is listed at 55mm chainline, e13 does make rings in various offsets, so it's worth contacting them directly about a 52mm option. The other interesting one is the OChain for Bosch Gen 5 (BDU38), which @Blownoutrides you might find useful to know ships with spacers in the box to set either 52mm or 55mm chainline. @bmwpowere36m3's point about it being the combination of chainring, spider, and motor that determines the final chainline is spot on, so the OChain's adjustable spacer approach might be exactly the kind of solution you need, though it does add the anti-vibration damper which you may or may not want.

The other route, and possibly the simplest, would be to contact SRAM directly and ask for the OEM part number off the stock chainring. Norco clearly sourced a 52mm chainline ring from someone for this bike. If it's a custom SRAM part built specifically for Norco's spec, they might sell it as a replacement part through Norco's warranty/parts department even if it's not in the public catalogue. Given you've already been in touch with Norco about charger doors and motor bushings, they might be your best bet for tracking down the exact OEM ring spec and where to source spares.
 
This is a properly interesting puzzle you've stumbled into, and the community knowledge I've got lines up nicely with what you and @bmwpowere36m3 have been working through.

The core issue is clear: Norco specced the Sight VLT CX with a 52mm chainline, but SRAM's aftermarket DU38 (Gen 5 Bosch) chainrings are all built around a 55mm chainline. That 2-3mm difference is negligible for a normal drivetrain but obviously matters enormously when you've got an idler pulley sitting right there judging everything.

On the Avinox chainring idea, it's creative but there's a compatibility question. Both Avinox and Bosch Gen 5 use 104 BCD spider interfaces, but the direct mount spline pattern on the motor shaft is different between Bosch and Avinox, so you can't just bolt an Avinox ring straight onto your Bosch motor. You'd need a chainring that physically fits the Bosch Gen 5 spline but has the reduced offset you need.

There are a couple of leads worth chasing. The e*thirteen Helix Race E-Spec comes in a Bosch direct mount option, and while the one I've got data on is listed at 55mm chainline, e13 does make rings in various offsets, so it's worth contacting them directly about a 52mm option. The other interesting one is the OChain for Bosch Gen 5 (BDU38), which @Blownoutrides you might find useful to know ships with spacers in the box to set either 52mm or 55mm chainline. @bmwpowere36m3's point about it being the combination of chainring, spider, and motor that determines the final chainline is spot on, so the OChain's adjustable spacer approach might be exactly the kind of solution you need, though it does add the anti-vibration damper which you may or may not want.

The other route, and possibly the simplest, would be to contact SRAM directly and ask for the OEM part number off the stock chainring. Norco clearly sourced a 52mm chainline ring from someone for this bike. If it's a custom SRAM part built specifically for Norco's spec, they might sell it as a replacement part through Norco's warranty/parts department even if it's not in the public catalogue. Given you've already been in touch with Norco about charger doors and motor bushings, they might be your best bet for tracking down the exact OEM ring spec and where to source spares.
Just realized the OEM chainring uses a 104bcd spider (!). We can just keep the 52mmnspider and swap out the chainrings
 
Just realized the OEM chainring uses a 104bcd spider (!). We can just keep the 52mmnspider and swap out the chainrings

That's exactly what I said back when you asked... they likely went with a BCD mount spider so they can offer both Shimano and Sram chainrings depending on build. So yes, the easiest will be to get a 104 BCD T-type ring.
 
I am looking at either a C2 or C3, there is a sale at my local shop, and about $1k between the 2 options.

Is the C2 worth the extra money ? I'm not sure if I'd love wireless AXS, or find it too expensive to replace/maintain. I know the suspension is better, but not sure if I will notice that either. I've also heard mixed reviews on the mavens.

Thanks for any tips!
 
I am looking at either a C2 or C3, there is a sale at my local shop, and about $1k between the 2 options.

Is the C2 worth the extra money ? I'm not sure if I'd love wireless AXS, or find it too expensive to replace/maintain. I know the suspension is better, but not sure if I will notice that either. I've also heard mixed reviews on the mavens.

Thanks for any tips!

Rockshox Select+ vs. Select, Shimano Deore vs. AXS and Mavens vs. TRP Slates... that's easily over 1k in "upgrades". Whether its worthwhile...

The fork damper is a $300 upgrade (charger 3.1) and its an easy swap. The Select+ also has buttercups on the air spring too. Maybe not worthwhile, but that a $100 upgrade. Not sure on super deluxe, but vivid its $300 + required service ($150 or so) cost to upgrade to ultimate level (replacing the piggyback). Mavens easily $500-600. AXS transmission is $1000.

I went Range C2 build which is very similar in "tier" to the Sight C3. I figured I use the savings to upgrade as needed. Plus I already had some components like base Mavens and I wasn't so interested in AXS myself. Shimano Deore is great and when it goes, link glide.
 
I am looking at either a C2 or C3, there is a sale at my local shop, and about $1k between the 2 options.

Is the C2 worth the extra money ? I'm not sure if I'd love wireless AXS, or find it too expensive to replace/maintain. I know the suspension is better, but not sure if I will notice that either. I've also heard mixed reviews on the mavens.

Thanks for any tips!
Really depends, I mean the C2 is better in every way, but then again so is the C1. At the end of the day you can have great fun on any of the builds. If you don't have anything that makes you really want the C2 I would just pocket the $1k and ride the C3 for a while and figure out what you like and what you want to upgrade.

With this chainring issue, has anyone tried contacting Norco directly to purchase a new chainring? Surely they have access to the part considering they are still building and shipping these bikes, no?
 
Really depends, I mean the C2 is better in every way, but then again so is the C1. At the end of the day you can have great fun on any of the builds. If you don't have anything that makes you really want the C2 I would just pocket the $1k and ride the C3 for a while and figure out what you like and what you want to upgrade.

With this chainring issue, has anyone tried contacting Norco directly to purchase a new chainring? Surely they have access to the part considering they are still building and shipping these bikes, no?
I just made the rather late and obtuse discovery that the OEM chainring is in fact a custom spider to achieve the 52mm chainline + 104BCD bolt on chainring, so replacing the chainring due to wear is solved by getting a replacement 104BCD (just ordered a 5Dev titanium).

I guess I just assumed those chainring bolts were rivets like the ones on the sram XX.

Kinda bummed that we are stuck with that spider. Ochain probably not an option
 
It is as clean as they could possibly make it. Emailed norco for mine immediately.

The only way to do it better would have been to go ahead and remake the S4 mold when they realized it was effed up 🤣

Update:

Norco told me to kick rocks and talk to my dealer lol

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Yup, I asked the same, dealer eventually reached out and asked for $20 for the part and $20 to have norco ship it to them. Which I thought was bullshit, so I declined.
I’ll 3d print something in the mean time.
 
I just made the rather late and obtuse discovery that the OEM chainring is in fact a custom spider to achieve the 52mm chainline + 104BCD bolt on chainring, so replacing the chainring due to wear is solved by getting a replacement 104BCD (just ordered a 5Dev titanium).

I guess I just assumed those chainring bolts were rivets like the ones on the sram XX.

Kinda bummed that we are stuck with that spider. Ochain probably not an option
Do you think an ochain would give any benefit given the bike has an idler?
 
I like this bike better than the Rogue, even though they are very similar the builds come out lighter, quality is higher, Bosch powertrain...
I rode a rogue Saturday and it was rattly and noisy motor. Other than that it felt similar.
Podium fork was sublime!
 
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