2023 Giant Trance X E+ / E+ Elite

Hi,
I’ve riding with -1,5 degrees on the headset, 160 on the fork and 55mm of travel on the rear shock (+/-148 mm on the rear wheel).
The bike feels amazing on a speedy singletrails and rockgardens compared with the stock geometry/travel.
I only have the “issue” with the cables routing on the lateral of the frame when mount the new headset.

D505E105-0503-4E39-9730-F045812D4765.jpeg
 
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@kimizzz that looks sick! Any other feedback on the changes? Does it feel tucky or understeery? How's the long stroke shock? Any cons?

The headset routed cables are so dumb! They look goofy and are a pointless faff.
 
Nasty Nick said:
@kimizzz that looks sick! Any other feedback on the changes? Does it feel tucky or understeery? How's the long stroke shock? Any cons?

The headset routed cables are so dumb! They look goofy and are a pointless
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On vertical trails, you feel much more confident, and on slow and technical trails, you may lose some agility, but it isn’t comparable with the benefits you gain. Uphill, there's no difference.

Regarding the shock travel…140 feels not enough. The increase isn’t too much, but if you are thinking about upgrade the shock…it’s the moment. Coil shock is an other level 😉
 
kimizzz said:
On vertical trails, you feel much more confident, and on slow and technical trails, you may lose some agility, but it isn’t comparable with the benefits you gain. Uphill, there's no difference.

Regarding the shock travel…140 feels not enough. The increase isn’t too much, but if you are thinking about upgrade the shock…it’s the moment. Coil shock is an other level 😉
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Oh really, coil? Did you find the LR published somewhere?
 
LP88 said:
Also, someone was asking about difficulty of removing the Ride Control Ergo (handlebar switch). It is very easy. just pick up the front flap of the Ride Control Ergo from the front edge (it's magnetic) and find a 2mm allen key bolt underneath. Remove this and disconnect the connector for the RC Ergo and pull it through the headset (you will need to completely loosen the headset so it doesn't pinch, and probably remove the rubber grommet from the headset cover which is very tricky to refit). If you're not changing power modes all the time you can just single press the power button on the RC Go to change through modes and tidy up your handlebars a bit...

You can also completely replace the headset with a conventional one to eliminate the annoying creaking/looseness. See photos of a mate's bike I did ( use the cable port cover with 3 holes affectionately known as the 'cock and balls' - you know why). Or go something like the Sixpack Millennium ICR stem, and an ICR headset with a metal compression ring - which I intend to do...

View attachment 157331View attachment 157332View attachment 157334
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What kind of upper headset did you used? Looks neat.
 
Anyone experiencing consistent issues with the headset coming loose? Other than changing the cable routing and headset what have others done to fix it?
 
For anyone thats interested a Oneup 240mm dropper will fit fully slammed in a large frame. I need to reduce max travel down still ~10-15mm to get the seat height correct.

20250829_083258.jpg
 
Trancesilvania said:
Anyone experiencing consistent issues with the headset coming loose? Other than changing the cable routing and headset what have others done to fix it?
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There's nothing you can do other than replace the headset (other than keep it tight and clean/greased every couple of rides?) Otherwise you'll quickly see wear on the headset cups etc. It's a poor quality headset with plastic parts.

Replaced mine with an Acros version with an aluminium compression ring but the downside is the upper bearing is thinner as it's 42mm ID instead of the original 40. You can do this or go to a conventional headset in a better quality like Hope, Cane Creek et al, and run the hose/cables through the frame.

I also replaced my stem with a Six Pack Racing stem with tidier cable routing.

Ex mechanic so worked on a lot of these.
 
LP88 said:
There's nothing you can do other than replace the headset (other than keep it tight and clean/greased every couple of rides?) Otherwise you'll quickly see wear on the headset cups etc. It's a poor quality headset with plastic parts.

Replaced mine with an Acros version with an aluminium compression ring but the downside is the upper bearing is thinner as it's 42mm ID instead of the original 40. You can do this or go to a conventional headset in a better quality like Hope, Cane Creek et al, and run the hose/cables through the frame.

I also replaced my stem with a Six Pack Racing stem with tidier cable routing.

Ex mechanic so worked on a lot of these.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the response. Surely this is enough of an issue that a recall is in order?
 
Trancesilvania said:
Thanks for the response. Surely this is enough of an issue that a recall is in order?
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I'm not sure to be honest. I successfully had one replaced under warranty with seemingly more frequent issues than most, but I didn't get much back by way of a response, just replacement parts sent. I guess the headset (made by Token) has a place, but in practice may not quite be up to the task of supporting the front end of a highly active e-bike. All I can suggest is if you keep having issues to submit a warranty request or similar - or like myself if you don't want to deal with the same headset fit another one!

Something I wanted to lean into but hadn't yet - a fellow "Strokeshift" on Instagram makes very nice suspension servicing tools etc and is in the works of making a headset with a smaller id bearing so the cables go through a large top cover OUTSIDE the bearing. He has filed a patent for the design and I think we should get behind it (respectfully not some other UK mob which i suspect is a knock off).

All just my thoughts.

 
Interesting concept, looks like it could solve the issues we’ve been having. I’ve gone to a standard set-up a few months ago but I’m still having to tighten the headset every couple of weeks.
 
I bought this a couple of weeks ago… it’s a medium Trance Elite. Stock it weighted 20.7kg

I’ve upgraded a few bits and pieces with the aim of getting as much weight off the front as possible and with a goal of getting the weight to under 20kg.

Here as it sits in the photo it’s 20.17kg. The wheels were a little heavier than I was hoping.

I’ve only had one ride on it, and I’m very happy with it so far. My aim was to get an ebike that was playful on the trail like a normal bike, and with the smaller battery and lower weight this bike does just that.
The internal routing of the headset and cable rattle are the only negatives so far
IMG_8075.jpeg
IMG_8076.jpeg
 
Ivan said:
I bought this a couple of weeks ago… it’s a medium Trance Elite. Stock it weighted 20.7kg

I’ve upgraded a few bits and pieces with the aim of getting as much weight off the front as possible and with a goal of getting the weight to under 20kg.

Here as it sits in the photo it’s 20.17kg. The wheels were a little heavier than I was hoping.

I’ve only had one ride on it, and I’m very happy with it so far. My aim was to get an ebike that was playful on the trail like a normal bike, and with the smaller battery and lower weight this bike does just that.
The internal routing of the headset and cable rattle are the only negatives so far
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Looks nice, mate! If you ever have to fiddle with a dropper cable (or want to practice dropping the motor) it's a good idea to run some foam cable sleeve the full length of the brake hose and gear cable - I found this made a big difference (otherwise could get a bit of rattle where they run on top of/beside the battery). Enjoy.
 
LP88 said:
Looks nice, mate! If you ever have to fiddle with a dropper cable (or want to practice dropping the motor) it's a good idea to run some foam cable sleeve the full length of the brake hose and gear cable - I found this made a big difference (otherwise could get a bit of rattle where they run on top of/beside the battery). Enjoy.
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Thanks for the tip. I was planning to order some foam cable sleeve, so it's encouraging to hear it will make a difference.
 
Does anyone know if a large can air shock like the Ohlins TTX2 Air will clear the frame at the bottom on an Elite? I can't find measurements anywhere.
 
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Ivan said:
Does anyone know if a large can air shock like the Ohlins TTX2 Air will clear the frame at the bottom on an Elite? I can't find measurements anywhere.
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They're no larger than an X2 yeah? If so there should be plenty of space. I'd be more concerned about a coil shock where there can be issues with the bottom edge of the spring/spring perch (my current shock a 2025 DHX2 with SLS 650LB coil almost contacts the seat tube at rest)... See photos pg10 for the X2...

In which case if you want to consider a Factory X2 let me know ;)
 
LP88 said:
Nice one, looks great! Let us know how it feels?
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First ride done and very happy. The small bump sensitivity is better than the standard shock. Also, I started with the rebound and LSC in the middle of the range and really didn’t feel a need to adjust them. Everything seemed well damped and predictable including jumps.

IMG_8282.jpeg
IMG_8283.jpeg

I would definitely like to find a better way to keep the cables from rubbing on the shock though. I used the old trick of a piece of pvc tube and zip ties to keep them separated but it’s a bit ugly
 
Ivan said:
I would definitely like to find a better way to keep the cables from rubbing on the shock though. I used the old trick of a piece of pvc tube and zip ties to keep them separated but it’s a bit ugly
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I used some self-adhesive round black felt pads. Placed them there where the cables touching the shock. It also helped that I replaced the derailleur for a wireless one😉
 
Petter said:
I used some self-adhesive round black felt pads. Placed them there where the cables touching the shock. It also helped that I replaced the derailleur for a wireless one😉
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I might try something like this instead.
 
IMG_5679.jpg


Live valve is crap. The rear shock is leaking and a rebuild is hellishly expensive, front end feels too flexy too. How much weight are you guys gaining adding Zebs/38s/Ohlins to the front? Biggest selling point for this bike for me is the light weight. Might just have to replace the rear shock only.
 
kimizzz said:
Hi,
I’ve riding with -1,5 degrees on the headset, 160 on the fork and 55mm of travel on the rear shock (+/-148 mm on the rear wheel).
The bike feels amazing on a speedy singletrails and rockgardens compared with the stock geometry/travel.
I only have the “issue” with the cables routing on the lateral of the frame when mount the new headset.

View attachment 161504
Click to expand...
I can't quite work it out on your photograph. Did you manage to feed all 4 cables through the frame port? I'm thinking of replacing my headset as well.
 
Redfox said:
I can't quite work it out on your photograph. Did you manage to feed all 4 cables through the frame port? I'm thinking of replacing my headset as well.
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You can. I have also done it. I printed a 4 port cable guide to make it tidy, but I think you could easily mod one of the stock guides to work
image.jpg
 
Ivan said:
You can. I have also done it. I printed a 4 port cable guide to make it tidy, but I think you could easily mod one of the stock guides to work
Click to expand...
Nice, thank you. Just ordered a Works 1.0 deg headset. Good idea to print a 4 hole guide. I'll set one up in 3D, just need to find someone locally who can print it for me. It'll be nice to finally tidy up the cable routing after owning the bike for two years.
 
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