Avinox SRAM AXS Motor power Cable (M1/M2 Variants)

Zimmerframe

Zimmerframe

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For the M1 :

You need the SRAM AXS Cable (Higo Micro A ??). Most people seem to go for the 955mm option (but the 780mm is fine for most bikes 780mm 028.003).

1752391865312.png


Manufacturer Item code : 11.3018.028.001

Or SRAM Model ID : EP-EAC-ECD-A1

Search for either of those and you should find a selection of vendors.

It's expensive for what it is. You can buy the cable in two parts and make one up, which is cheaper, but it's not easy finding the two ends : Haven't seen them on aliexpress for example.

Example links to the diy option in this post (though not 100% Sure the motor end connector is the correct on in the links) :

www.emtbforums.com

Dji avinox- Amflow - Discussion

run max power while we can I have a fast bike now, and I beat it to death, 2700 miles for 2025 so far and 360,000 feet of climbing. Im buying this for more KOMs so it will get beat on for all its worth. With that said riding 5 days a week and averaging 100 miles, and not all 100 miles are me...
www.emtbforums.com www.emtbforums.com

For the M2 Motors at time of writing it looks like you need the 00.3018.418.001 Higo Z405 (same format plug as light connector with 4 ports)

Presumably there will also be "Y" connectors which enable you to plug into the M2 Outlet and run to the Mech and a dropper but at time of writing these are not available. When/If there is a Y cable it might enable the use of the original cable to the mech.

sram.webp


If you read down the thread (page 5/6) there are discussions about making cables up - but this is still under discussion/testing.
Edit: post 262, one made and tested.

https://www.emtbforums.com/threads/...-power-cable-m1-m2-variants.42944/post-691301
 
Last edited:
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Moved to DJI motor section.

Made Sticky.

#DJI SRAM CABLE #SRAM AXS AVINOX #AVINOX DERAILLEUR CABLE
 
Another option from @mooby77 :

Buy the Bosch cable on discount :

sportandleisure.com

SRAM AXS Eagle EP Battery Cable Extension Cord For Bosch

SRAM AXS Eagle EP Battery Cable Extension Cord No more annoying charging of your AXS rear derailleur - with the slim and discreet SRAM AXS Powertrain power cable, you can make your eBike fit for every ride! The SRAM extension replaces the conventional battery in your SRAM AXS rear derailleur and...
sportandleisure.com sportandleisure.com

BES3 (Bosch E-Bike System 3) 00.3018.317.000 / SME8028002

Then search for a Higo Connector (about €7) : Z205AG P 00 AW 1000 and solder that on instead of the Bosch connector.

1753187237647.png


HIGO-S2-MA

HIGO Micro-A male connector 2-pole
shop.e-bike-technologies.de

For the standard cable, just over €100 is the cheapest I've seen today (Swiss):

www.velofactory.ch

SRAM Cable Extension Cord 780mm Higo Micro A, 87.40 CHF

SRAM Cable Extension Cord 780mm for Eagle Powertrain: Extension cable with HIGO MICRO A plug, internal routing, compatible with various e-bike motors.
www.velofactory.ch www.velofactory.ch

or $120 (again, just over €100) :

www.airparkbikeco.com

SRAM EP Extension Cord Higo Micro A 780mm

EP Cable Extension Cord 780mm Higo Micro A The extension cord is an optional item to power the AXS derailleur by the main system battery instead of a separate AXS battery.Details Misc 780mm
www.airparkbikeco.com www.airparkbikeco.com

Or here with 15% off first order, so just over $100 :

www.dynamitebikelab.com

SRAM EP Extension Cord Higo Micro A 780mm

EP Cable Extension Cord 780mm Higo Micro A The extension cord is an optional item to power the AXS derailleur by the main system battery instead of a separate AXS battery. TECH SPECS Misc 780mm
www.dynamitebikelab.com www.dynamitebikelab.com

Keep in mind they're all the 780mm version.
 
Zimmerframe said:
Another option from @mooby77 :

Buy the Bosch cable on discount :

sportandleisure.com

SRAM AXS Eagle EP Battery Cable Extension Cord For Bosch

SRAM AXS Eagle EP Battery Cable Extension Cord No more annoying charging of your AXS rear derailleur - with the slim and discreet SRAM AXS Powertrain power cable, you can make your eBike fit for every ride! The SRAM extension replaces the conventional battery in your SRAM AXS rear derailleur and...
sportandleisure.com sportandleisure.com

BES3 (Bosch E-Bike System 3) 00.3018.317.000 / SME8028002

Then search for a Higo Connector (about €7) : Z205AG P 00 AW 1000 and solder that on instead of the Bosch connector.

View attachment 164804

HIGO-S2-MA

HIGO Micro-A male connector 2-pole
shop.e-bike-technologies.de

For the standard cable, just over €100 is the cheapest I've seen today (Swiss):

www.velofactory.ch

SRAM Cable Extension Cord 780mm Higo Micro A, 87.40 CHF

SRAM Cable Extension Cord 780mm for Eagle Powertrain: Extension cable with HIGO MICRO A plug, internal routing, compatible with various e-bike motors.
www.velofactory.ch www.velofactory.ch

or $120 (again, just over €100) :

www.airparkbikeco.com

SRAM EP Extension Cord Higo Micro A 780mm

EP Cable Extension Cord 780mm Higo Micro A The extension cord is an optional item to power the AXS derailleur by the main system battery instead of a separate AXS battery.Details Misc 780mm
www.airparkbikeco.com www.airparkbikeco.com

Or here with 15% off first order, so just over $100 :

www.dynamitebikelab.com

SRAM EP Extension Cord Higo Micro A 780mm

EP Cable Extension Cord 780mm Higo Micro A The extension cord is an optional item to power the AXS derailleur by the main system battery instead of a separate AXS battery. TECH SPECS Misc 780mm
www.dynamitebikelab.com www.dynamitebikelab.com

Keep in mind they're all the 780mm version.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately sold out. 😂😂
 
FYI - Amflow told me part number needed is: 11.3018.028.003, which is for the Higo Micro A 780mm cable.

Edit: as this topic is very confusing and I spent way way too much time going down a rabbit hole to get a correct answer, here is more context around what I found.

Sram Model ID : EP-EAC-ECD-A1 - this is correct but it is a top level model ID. There are numerous iterations with different part numbers underneath this model ID. So don't search for this model, but rather part number you need from below.

Part numbers:
11.3018.028.000 - 780mm, is for SRAM Powertrain or Brose drive units specifically, different connector at motor end
11.3018.028.001 - 955mm, Higo Micro-A. For SRAM Powertrain and Brose. Too long.
11.3018.028.002 - 540mm, Higo Micro-A. for SRAM Powertrain and Brose. Too short
11.3018.028.003 - 780mm Higo Micro-A. Designed for DJI Avinox Motor (Amflow) This the one you need. I verified this with both Amflow and SRAM.

Some people report buying the .000 or 001 model and cutting of the connector at the end (and with .001 shortening the cord), then soldering on a Micro-A connector.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for this info @mooby77 @Zimmerframe and @PilGrimSD most helpful.

I can confirm that the information is correct and I have just completed fitting the cable. Correct cable 11.3018.028.003 is currently out of stock in UK & Europe so I purchased the Bosch version (also cheaper) 00.3018.317.000 and then a MALE Higo micro-A connector.

Of course it would be even easier to simply chop off the connections altogether and then simply join the wires together, OR use your own connectors. There are only two wires to deal with + & - and marked on the SRAM false-battery part, the important thing to remember is that the centre pin is + positive and the outer shell is - negative of the Higo micro-A connector. The DJI Motor connector (Female Higo micro-A) has a tight fitting blanking-cap on it from the factory, pinch and twist to remove.

The wire needs to be anything over 750mm any excess is easily hidden in the seat/down tube. I had previously removed the old gear cable from the chainstay when transferring the AXS derailleur from my old bike. If possible you need to use this to pull the new wiring through the chainstay as it DOES NOT HAVE A GUIDE TUBE INSIDE. The tiny Higo micro-A connector is the same outside diameter as the old gear cable.

The bike battery now powers the AXS deraillier PLUS with "Smooth Shift" enabled in the menu, the bike detects the derailleur and will spin up the chainring independently (from the pedals) to change gears. This only happens when the bike can detect that the rear wheel is turning and the bike is not upside down! If you lift the rear of the bike off the ground and turn the back wheel it's possible to auto-shift right across the cassette without touching the pedals (which remain stationary).
 
Zimmerframe said:
For the standard cable, just over €100 is the cheapest I've seen today (Swiss):

www.velofactory.ch

SRAM Cable Extension Cord 780mm Higo Micro A, 87.40 CHF

SRAM Cable Extension Cord 780mm for Eagle Powertrain: Extension cable with HIGO MICRO A plug, internal routing, compatible with various e-bike motors.
www.velofactory.ch www.velofactory.ch
Click to expand...
We ship exclusively to recipients within
Switzerland and Liechtenstein.
Click to expand...
most swiss shops are like this, we keep the low prices for ourselves
 
The Bosch version is cheaper and available in UK/EU, but then you have to factor in buying the connector. BUT no extra cost if you chop the connectors off altogether and join the wires. Added bonus it's easier to thread the wire through the chainstay!
 
Pentti said:
Thanks for this info @mooby77 @Zimmerframe and @PilGrimSD most helpful.

I can confirm that the information is correct and I have just completed fitting the cable. Correct cable 11.3018.028.003 is currently out of stock in UK & Europe so I purchased the Bosch version (also cheaper) 00.3018.317.000 and then a MALE Higo micro-A connector.

Of course it would be even easier to simply chop off the connections altogether and then simply join the wires together, OR use your own connectors. There are only two wires to deal with + & - and marked on the SRAM false-battery part, the important thing to remember is that the centre pin is + positive and the outer shell is - negative of the Higo micro-A connector. The DJI Motor connector (Female Higo micro-A) has a tight fitting blanking-cap on it from the factory, pinch and twist to remove.

The wire needs to be anything over 750mm any excess is easily hidden in the seat/down tube. I had previously removed the old gear cable from the chainstay when transferring the AXS derailleur from my old bike. If possible you need to use this to pull the new wiring through the chainstay as it DOES NOT HAVE A GUIDE TUBE INSIDE. The tiny Higo micro-A connector is the same outside diameter as the old gear cable.

The bike battery now powers the AXS deraillier PLUS with "Smooth Shift" enabled in the menu, the bike detects the derailleur and will spin up the chainring independently (from the pedals) to change gears. This only happens when the bike can detect that the rear wheel is turning and the bike is not upside down! If you lift the rear of the bike off the ground and turn the back wheel it's possible to auto-shift right across the cassette without touching the pedals (which remain stationary).
Click to expand...
Hi Pentti - can I clarify what you did with the Higo Connector? I thought it would turnup with a male adapter to simply plug the bosch cable into but it's simply bare wire on the other end. Did you get a separate connector or did you chop the bosch connector off and join up the wires? Thanks in advance!
 
tractor_lad said:
Hi Pentti - can I clarify what you did with the Higo Connector? I thought it would turnup with a male adapter to simply plug the bosch cable into but it's simply bare wire on the other end. Did you get a separate connector or did you chop the bosch connector off and join up the wires? Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Hi @tractor_lad yes I just chopped-off the Bosch (yellow) connector and soldered the wires to the Higo (put some shrink-wrap over first). Only two wires + & -, I was put off initally by photos of the motor showing the cables. The one you need (Higo) has a blanking cap fitted over the end making it appear to be male. Be careful getting it off, it's a tight fit, pinch & twist is the secret.
Of course it doesn't really need to be a tiny Higo connector if you're cutting the wires, you could use any 2-pin connector you fancy (or just join them together). It's tiny so that you can thread the whole thing inside the chainstay through the cable hole.
 
Thanks, @Pentti - got it all sorted now! For others considering the same approach, note that, for me, my Higo connector had blue and black inner wires, with the bosch cable using red and black. I mistakenly connected black to black initially and nothing worked. Connect the blue wire on the higo connector to the black wire on the bosch, leaving the red and black to connect and everything then worked as expected! I also found that tracing the higo connector wire from the motor through to the rear triangle was easier to do than trying the bosch connector from the other direction. I could then solder the connections and pull the bosch connector wire back through, tucking the zip tied excess above the motor seemed to work well for me. I also couldn't find Smooth Shift in my app but could through the HUD on the bike so enabled it there and all works brilliantly. Heading out on a test ride today! Thanks again to @Pentti for your help - would not have tried this out without it!!
 
Would anyone be kind enough to poke their derailleur puck with a volt meter? I'd like to make my own cable but I don't know if the AXS derailleur is intended to accept 12V directly from the ebike or if these pucks feature an 8V regulator to mimic a battery.

1760305485196.png
 
Forgot about the old cable, now been struggling for about 2 hours to get the AXS cable to the motor.

Annoying.
 
Awesome, thanks @Pentti I was originally inspired by e_1's work but I wasn't sure if he included the voltage regulator out of caution or necessity.
 
Gauss Guzzler said:
Awesome, thanks @Pentti I was originally inspired by e_1's work but I wasn't sure if he included the voltage regulator out of caution or necessity.
Click to expand...
Yeah @Gauss Guzzler I understand, my thinking also - I spotted you used his photo so guessed you'd been researching. The problem is replicating the puck and ensuring a good connection & watertight seal with the derailleur. A 3D printed part would be ideal if the 3D file was free to share.
 
Last edited:
dadeadduck said:
Forgot about the old cable, now been struggling for about 2 hours to get the AXS cable to the motor.

Annoying.
Click to expand...
Patience @dadeadduck that's why it's worth considering cutting the wire (easier to pull through) and then re-connecting at the motor, with the added bonus you could use any (or none) connector you want. There's only two power wires in there, pos & neg. I used some welding wire with a small tight hook on the end, when it was visible in the hole at the other end I hooked the "hook" with a loop of thin electrical cable and pulled it through. Then pulled the welding wire back through with the AXS cable attached
 
Pentti said:
Patience @dadeadduck that's why it's worth considering cutting the wire (easier to pull through) and then re-connecting at the motor, with the added bonus you could use any (or none) connector you want. There's only two power wires in there, pos & neg. I used some welding wire with a small tight hook on the end, when it was visible in the hole at the other end I hooked the "hook" with a loop of thin electrical cable and pulled it through. Then pulled the welding wire back through with the AXS cable attached
Click to expand...
After pointing the bike vertical and removing the shock to allow the gap to open up, I managed to get it (and Intend brake line on the other side) though.

Patience and a bit of luck was key!
 
tractor_lad said:
Thanks, @Pentti - got it all sorted now! For others considering the same approach, note that, for me, my Higo connector had blue and black inner wires, with the bosch cable using red and black. I mistakenly connected black to black initially and nothing worked. Connect the blue wire on the higo connector to the black wire on the bosch, leaving the red and black to connect and everything then worked as expected! I also found that tracing the higo connector wire from the motor through to the rear triangle was easier to do than trying the bosch connector from the other direction. I could then solder the connections and pull the bosch connector wire back through, tucking the zip tied excess above the motor seemed to work well for me. I also couldn't find Smooth Shift in my app but could through the HUD on the bike so enabled it there and all works brilliantly. Heading out on a test ride today! Thanks again to @Pentti for your help - would not have tried this out without it!!
Click to expand...
Do you know which of the wires of the higo cable (blue/black) are + and - ?
 
Bosch to higo for the AXS lead is: blue (blue and black) to black (black and red), black (blue and black) to red (black and red).
 
Has anyone had luck finding the cable in the US? I can’t seem to find anyone that has the correct cable (11.3018.028.003) in stock.
 
Brawwp said:
Has anyone had luck finding the cable in the US? I can’t seem to find anyone that has the correct cable (11.3018.028.003) in stock.
Click to expand...
With so many frame only Avinox bikes sold out. They are rare as hens teeth. They are in stock in shops in europe. Not sure what your tariff system will do to the price.

Aliexpress has them as well. Very expensive though.
 
Last edited:
Brawwp said:
Has anyone had luck finding the cable in the US? I can’t seem to find anyone that has the correct cable (11.3018.028.003) in stock.
Click to expand...
If you read back through this thread, I used a BOSCH version cable and just modified the connector. The BOSCH version seems more readily available and it's cheaper too! The adapter which replaces the battery in the derailleur is the same, it's only the connector that's different and you are only dealing with two wires + & -
12v on the motor and 8v on the derailleur, there's a transformer built into the adapter part
 
PilGrimSD said:
11.3018.028.001 - 955mm, Higo Micro-A. For SRAM Powertrain and Brose. Too long.
Click to expand...

On this version (11.3018.028.001) it sounds like it is the correct connections but is too long. Can you not just tuck the excess cable in around the motor area or do you have to cut it shorter?

Has anyone cut it short and if so what type of cable is it? Is it just a 2 wire or is there also a shield?

Thanks.

.
 
mtnrider said:
On this version (11.3018.028.001) it sounds like it is the correct connections but is too long. Can you not just tuck the excess cable in around the motor area or do you have to cut it shorter?

Has anyone cut it short and if so what type of cable is it? Is it just a 2 wire or is there also a shield?

Thanks.

.
Click to expand...
Yes, loads of room to hide/tuck it inside the frame, not an issue. Also easy to shorten, just two wires inside (no shielding) a pos and a neg to the battery adapter (as marked on the adapter)
 
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