Bafang M560

[gsoros]

Hi fellow M560 owners,

I'm mostly happy with my M560, it's more than strong enough and has been reliable so far (650 km).

I would like to access more settings than what the Go+ app has to offer. In particular, I feel the torque sensor behaves almost like an on/off switch in my case. At around 150 W human input it already gives full power for the selected PAS. I would like it to peak around 250-300 W, not sure if this is adjustable with the BESST tool, I don't own one. Also, it would be nice to have human power and motor power displayed as the main value instead of the speed on the DPC245.

The noise isn't a deal breaker, but I'm looking into whether it can be eliminated. I've read many posts about the noise, it seems like there is no consensus about its origin, mechanical or electrical. I asked ChatGPT about the issue, as one does nowadays. It ChatGPT can be believed, it is definitely electrical and it could be reduced in the firmware. Here is my chat for those interested:

Is the whiny noise of the Bafang M560 more likely mechanical, caused by the gears, or electrical, coming from the stator?

Good question — the “whiny” noise of the Bafang M560 (and similar mid-drives like the M600/M620) can come from both sources, but the character of the noise usually gives away the cause:

• Electrical (stator/motor winding PWM noise):
  • Typically a higher-pitched, smooth, constant whine that changes directly with motor RPM.
  • Most noticeable at low to mid RPM, especially under light load.
  • This is caused by the motor controller’s switching frequency exciting the stator laminations and windings.
• Mechanical (gears/drive train):
  • A grinding, meshing, or more “mechanical whirring” sound.
  • Often lower-pitched than electrical whine.
  • Can vary with both cadence and torque, especially when the internal reduction gears or nylon gear are under stress.
  • May get louder with load or if grease is insufficient.

For the M560 specifically, riders often report the whiny noise is primarily electrical (from the motor/controller), rather than gear noise. Bafang’s internal reduction gears tend to sound more like a muted hum or buzz when under load, whereas the sharp, high-pitched “whine” you notice at acceleration and low speeds is generally from the stator and controller switching.


If the sound seems sharp, electronic, and proportional to motor RPM, it’s electrical (stator/controller). If it’s rougher, more like meshing, and load-dependent, it’s mechanical (gears/grease).


Would you like me to walk you through a couple of simple tests you can do on the bike to quickly tell whether your M560’s whine is electrical or gear-related?

If I make a recording, can you analyze a sound file?

Yes! You can upload an audio file (or even a video if that's easier), and I’ll analyze the sound profile for you. I can check things like:

• The frequency range of the whine (electrical tends to be in the kHz range, while gear noise is lower).
• Whether the pitch scales smoothly with motor RPM (electrical) or changes more with load/torque (mechanical).
• Look for harmonics that suggest gear meshing.

Do you want to upload a recording of your Bafang M560 noise, and I’ll break it down for you?

bafang m560 noise.mp3

I’ve analyzed your Bafang M560 recording — here’s what the spectrogram shows:

• There’s a strong, narrow high-frequency band (a clear horizontal line in the spectrogram) that rises and falls smoothly with motor RPM.
• This kind of consistent, tonal “whine” is characteristic of electrical switching noise from the stator/controller, not gears.
• Mechanical gear noise would look more like broadband energy (spread across a wider frequency range, rougher, less tonal).

Based on your recording, the whiny noise is overwhelmingly electrical, not mechanical.

The dominant peak in your recording is at about 80 Hz, which matches the motor’s rotational frequency (RPM/Hz relationship) rather than gear meshing.


The high-pitched whiny tone you hear is actually a harmonic effect of this base frequency and the controller’s PWM switching, which usually falls in the 8–20 kHz range for Bafang mid-drives. That’s why you perceive it as a sharp electrical whine.


Conclusion:
Your M560’s noise is electrical (stator/controller PWM), not mechanical gear noise.


Do you want me to break down the harmonic spectrum (showing those kHz bands that create the whine), so you can see the PWM signature directly?

That won't be necessary, can the noise be reduced by a firmware update, or is the controller likely using a primitive square wave or modified sine wave for driving the motor? would replacing the controller with a VESC eliminate the noise?

Short answer:

• Yes, firmware can reduce it—if Bafang (or your OEM tune) raises the PWM/switching frequency above ~20 kHz, uses spread-spectrum PWM, and smooths current/torque ramps. That pushes most of the tone out of hearing and reduces the stator “sing.” The trade-offs are more switching loss/heat and sometimes a tiny drop in efficiency. Whether you can get that update is the catch: Bafang tunes are usually dealer/OEM-locked, and not every tune changes the acoustic profile.
• The M560 is already driven with sine/FOC (SVPWM) on stock controllers, not a crude square wave. The whine you hear is mainly PWM/FOC by-products and magnetostriction, not trapezoidal commutation.
• A VESC can make it much quieter, often near-silent, because you can:
  • set PWM to 25–35 kHz (above most people’s hearing),
  • finely tune FOC, current loop gains, and current slew rates,
  • enable audible-noise-friendly ramping.
    You’ll pay in switching losses and need careful thermal management, but many riders report a big reduction in tonal whine.

---

Practical path (from easiest to most invasive)​

1. Ask for the latest “quiet” tune
   • Some OEMs have alternate maps with higher PWM or different current-ramp/observer settings. If your display/controller supports it, look for any “silent/quiet mode” option.
2. Controller settings (if you have access)
   • PWM frequency: ≥22 kHz (common sweet spot: 24–32 kHz).
   • Spread-spectrum PWM: on, if available.
   • Current slew rate / torque ramp: slightly slower = less chirp.
   • Observer bandwidth / FOC tuning: conservative values reduce audible artifacts.
3. Minor mechanical damping (helps transmission, not the electrical tone)
   • Rubber isolation washers on motor mounts, ensure case screws are snug, add a thin acoustic foam pad behind covers (watch temps). This won’t remove the electrical whine but can reduce how much the frame “broadcasts” it.
4. VESC swap (biggest change, most work)
   • Feasible if you’re comfortable with wiring/tuning. Check:
     • Battery voltage: typically 48–52 V—select a VESC that safely handles it.
     • Phase/Hall wiring: the M560 has hall sensors; VESC supports hall-based FOC.
     • Current capability: choose hardware that can handle your peak phase/battery currents.
     • Integration trade-offs: you’ll lose Bafang display/assist integration unless you add adapters or custom firmware. Waterproofing and warranty also become DIY concerns.
   • With a careful FOC tune and 25–35 kHz PWM, most of the whine becomes inaudible; you may still hear faint ultrasonic or load-dependent harmonics at certain RPMs.

---

Bottom line​

• Your noise isn’t because the M560 uses a primitive waveform—it’s FOC, but the PWM frequency/tuning puts energy in the audible band.
• Firmware updates can help if they change those parameters.
• VESC gives you full control and can practically eliminate audible whine, at the cost of efficiency, effort, and integration complexity.

If you want, tell me your battery voltage and what kind of riding you do (peak currents), and I’ll suggest specific VESC hardware and a safe starting point for FOC/PWM settings.

I have an unused Flipsky FSESC75100 from an earlier project, I could use it with an Esp32, the part I'm uncertain about is interfacing the M560 torque sensor with the Esp32

That’s a really smart setup — the FSESC75100 has plenty of headroom for the M560, and using an ESP32 as the “bridge” between the torque sensor and the VESC is a clean way to keep pedal-assist rather than going throttle-only.


The tricky part is exactly what you pointed out: how the M560 torque sensor talks to the controller. Bafang doesn’t make this public, but here’s what’s known (from teardowns and reverse engineering of the M500/M600/M620 family, which the M560 belongs to):

---

How the Bafang torque sensor works​

• It’s not a simple analog strain gauge output like older mid-drives.
• The sensor module in the bottom bracket integrates torque + cadence, and sends data digitally.
• Communication is usually via a UART or CAN-like protocol to the controller (varies by model).
• For the M560, reports so far suggest it uses a UART-based digital packet, not an analog voltage. That’s why you can’t just wire it to the VESC ADC.

---

Options for you​

1. Bypass the Bafang sensor, add your own PAS/torque sensor
   • The simplest hack: replace with a 3rd-party bottom-bracket torque sensor (e.g. TDCM, Sempu, NCTE) that gives analog voltage or I²C output.
   • The ESP32 reads torque/cadence, then sends a throttle signal to the VESC (via UART or CAN).
   • Much easier than reverse-engineering Bafang’s closed sensor protocol.
2. Reverse-engineer the M560’s sensor protocol
   • You’d need to sniff the UART lines between the torque sensor and stock controller.
   • Likely 5V TTL serial at ~9600–115200 baud.
   • Packets will include torque, cadence, maybe temperature.
   • Once decoded, the ESP32 could parse and forward torque → virtual throttle to the VESC.
   • This is feasible (people have done it with M500/M600), but takes some work with a logic analyzer or oscilloscope.
3. Run throttle-only, add cadence sensor
   • If you’re okay without true torque sensing, you can wire a simple PAS disc + hall sensor to the ESP32 and simulate “assist” levels by mapping cadence → throttle command.
   • Dead simple, and still rideable.

---

Implementation with ESP32 + VESC​

• ESP32 reads torque/cadence (from Bafang sensor if decoded, or external sensor).
• ESP32 calculates desired assist power.
• ESP32 sends command to VESC via:
  • UART (VESC Tool protocol) or
  • CAN (if you want more robustness, since the 75100 supports CAN).

The VESC then just thinks it’s getting a throttle input.

---

So: Your FSESC75100 + ESP32 is totally viable.
The big decision is: do you want to invest time in reverse-engineering the M560 torque sensor packets, or just drop in a simpler third-party torque sensor that speaks analog/I²C?

---

Would you like me to dig into the known M500/M560 sensor protocol details (baud rate, packet structure, etc.) so you can decide if reverse-engineering is realistic, or would you prefer a parts list for plug-and-play external torque sensors that work with VESC?

 

[xtraman122]

Hi fellow M560 owners,

I'm mostly happy with my M560, it's more than strong enough and has been reliable so far (650 km).

I would like to access more settings than what the Go+ app has to offer. In particular, I feel the torque sensor behaves almost like an on/off switch in my case. At around 150 W human input it already gives full power for the selected PAS. I would like it to peak around 250-300 W, not sure if this is adjustable with the BESST tool, I don't own one. Also, it would be nice to have human power and motor power displayed as the main value instead of the speed on the DPC245.

The noise isn't a deal breaker, but I'm looking into whether it can be eliminated. I've read many posts about the noise, it seems like there is no consensus about its origin, mechanical or electrical. I asked ChatGPT about the issue, as one does nowadays. It ChatGPT can be believed, it is definitely electrical and it could be reduced in the firmware. Here is my chat for those interested:

I thought the Go app let you customize more now, but haven’t been able to use it in a while. You can definitely fine tune it better with a K1 or the BESST tool. I turn down by acceleration and assistance % to get a more natural progression on the motor and actually make me work for more power. It’s way too aggressive out of the box on the stock settings in my opinion.

The noise sounds normal, a plastic gear would definitely help reduce the noise, but nobody has made one yet. That’s the main difference between the M560 and the other M series motors, the 560 is all metal gears. You can try grease but it won’t make a huge difference, your bike sounds pretty normal to me, similar to mine.

 

[gsoros]

I thought the Go app let you customize more now, but haven’t been able to use it in a while. You can definitely fine tune it better with a K1 or the BESST tool. I turn down by acceleration and assistance % to get a more natural progression on the motor and actually make me work for more power. It’s way too aggressive out of the box on the stock settings in my opinion.

Thanks for your reply. The Go app is still very basic and buggy, I'm able to adjust the power and acceleration and the app hasn't bricked my controller yet Not really helpful though because max assist is at a fairly low human power (soft-pedaling), so I cannot really modulate the assistance without constantly switching PAS levels.

The noise sounds normal, a plastic gear would definitely help reduce the noise, but nobody has made one yet. That’s the main difference between the M560 and the other M series motors, the 560 is all metal gears. You can try grease but it won’t make a huge difference, your bike sounds pretty normal to me, similar to mine.

Good to know mine isn't exceptionally noisy. I was comparing the noise level to the geared hub motor with nylon gears on my trailer with is virtually silent even at high RPMs. Maybe in the M560 the noise originates from the stator and is transmitted by the metal gear and amplified by the case and the frame.

Anyways, I will probably be using the M560 as it is until something breaks and then consider replacing the controller with the VESC.

 

[Misenko]

Hi fellow M560 owners,

I'm mostly happy with my M560, it's more than strong enough and has been reliable so far (650 km).

I would like to access more settings than what the Go+ app has to offer. In particular, I feel the torque sensor behaves almost like an on/off switch in my case. At around 150 W human input it already gives full power for the selected PAS. I would like it to peak around 250-300 W, not sure if this is adjustable with the BESST tool, I don't own one. Also, it would be nice to have human power and motor power displayed as the main value instead of the speed on the DPC245.

The noise isn't a deal breaker, but I'm looking into whether it can be eliminated. I've read many posts about the noise, it seems like there is no consensus about its origin, mechanical or electrical. I asked ChatGPT about the issue, as one does nowadays. It ChatGPT can be believed, it is definitely electrical and it could be reduced in the firmware. Here is my chat for those interested:

Do you have first gen of M560 latest release which is more quiet? Also I would take AI regarding this topic with a grain of salt because often it says lot of bullshit

 

[xtraman122]

Do you have first gen of M560 latest release which is more quiet? Also I would take AI regarding this topic with a grain of salt because often it says lot of bullshit

His sounds like the quiet version to me, the first gen was unbelievably loud, sounded like something was wrong with the gear mesh to be honest.

 

[gsoros]

Do you have first gen of M560 latest release which is more quiet?

Not sure how to check that, can one tell by the serial number? Do we know at what point Bafang allegedly updated their gear geometry? But I think mine is a fairly recent one, I got it two months ago.

Also I would take AI regarding this topic with a grain of salt because often it says lot of bullshit

I completely agree! But in fairness, we must also take into account that most owners aren't experts in the topic.

 

[Misenko]

His sounds like the quiet version to me, the first gen was unbelievably loud, sounded like something was wrong with the gear mesh to be honest.

Ouch, coming from Bosch cx 4 I’m starting to be afraid Btw do you know what app to use to set it up with similar characteristics as bosch motors? Don’t know how close it can get but I would like to setup up somehow in a way it force me also to pedal. I don’t want to have it like a moped if you know what I mean. I’ve read about some controllers but those are pretty expensive.

 

[Misenko]

Not sure how to check that, can one tell by the serial number? Do we know at what point Bafang allegedly updated their gear geometry? But I think mine is a fairly recent one, I got it two months ago.


I completely agree! But in fairness, we must also take into account that most owners aren't experts in the topic.

Then you would have definitelly a new one. The revision is from April 2024 I guess. How it is in real, it’s really that loud. Also depend what do you compare it with because I have boach gen4 smart system which is much louder than gen3. Almost kind of noise I can hear on your M560. Some high pitched fq noise which is getting louder in rpms and exactly oscillates like from your recording. It’s pretty annoying if I compare it with gen3 motor but I’ve used to it so it is not that bad at the end. I hope this one won’t be that much louder otherwise I will have to switch it to m510 or wait for M560RS with plastics gears.

 

[xtraman122]

Ouch, coming from Bosch cx 4 I’m starting to be afraid Btw do you know what app to use to set it up with similar characteristics as bosch motors? Don’t know how close it can get but I would like to setup up somehow in a way it force me also to pedal. I don’t want to have it like a moped if you know what I mean. I’ve read about some controllers but those are pretty expensive.

The "app" would be the BESST Pro software (Which requires the BESST tool to connect) or you can modify those same parameters using @Dado's K1 tool as well. I don't believe you get the GUI style interface of BESST, but all the same parameters can be set as far as I know.

 

[gsoros]

Then you would have definitelly a new one. The revision is from April 2024 I guess. How it is in real, it’s really that loud. Also depend what do you compare it with because I have boach gen4 smart system which is much louder than gen3. Almost kind of noise I can hear on your M560. Some high pitched fq noise which is getting louder in rpms and exactly oscillates like from your recording. It’s pretty annoying if I compare it with gen3 motor but I’ve used to it so it is not that bad at the end. I hope this one won’t be that much louder otherwise I will have to switch it to m510 or wait for M560RS with plastics gears.

Well other cyclists can definitely hear you as you are coming up from behind, which is not necessarily a bad thing, they aren't startled as you are passing. But on the trails I'm really missing the quietness of the forest, just the noise of your tires and the occasional chain-slap, you know.

Maybe you can test-ride one at a local dealer or find someone who owns an M560 in your area?

 

[Misenko]

Well other cyclists can definitely hear you as you are coming up from behind, which is not necessarily a bad thing, they aren't startled as you are passing. But on the trails I'm really missing the quietness of the forest, just the noise of your tires and the occasional chain-slap, you know.

Maybe you can test-ride one at a local dealer or find someone who owns an M560 in your area?

I know what you mean exactly. Sadly, neither Bosch gen4 is silent and people can hear it. So maybe it won’t be that much louder? It’s too late since I’ve already ordered it with e82 frame and 1000Wh battery so I will have to try on my own. In worst I will switch to M510 since I guess I will not need power od M560 or wait for M560RS which would be much more silent.

 

[Dado]

Thanks for your reply. The Go app is still very basic and buggy, I'm able to adjust the power and acceleration and the app hasn't bricked my controller yet Not really helpful though because max assist is at a fairly low human power (soft-pedaling), so I cannot really modulate the assistance without constantly switching PAS levels.
View attachment 166640

Good to know mine isn't exceptionally noisy. I was comparing the noise level to the geared hub motor with nylon gears on my trailer with is virtually silent even at high RPMs. Maybe in the M560 the noise originates from the stator and is transmitted by the metal gear and amplified by the case and the frame.

Anyways, I will probably be using the M560 as it is until something breaks and then consider replacing the controller with the VESC.

There is still missing important parameter - Assistance level % in Go App. Dont understand why. It is important as this is the multiplication of pedalling power.

"Support level speed limit" is just a bullshit - it is max rotor RPMs. Does have some meaning if you have fixed gear - then possible over this to set speed limit at each PAS level.

K1 Flash can set all the parameters without passwords. And is true K1 Flash does not have any fancy UI, but not needed. You gonna fine tune motor to your preference and then no need to touch it.

That noise of M560 is not that bad. People are not noticing me when I reach them. When you revving it to high rpms and full power then there is some noise. But worth that power.

 

[gsoros]

There is still missing important parameter - Assistance level % in Go App. Dont understand why. It is important as this is the multiplication of pedalling power.

"Support level speed limit" is just a bullshit - it is max rotor RPMs. Does have some meaning if you have fixed gear - then possible over this to set speed limit at each PAS level.

K1 Flash can set all the parameters without passwords. And is true K1 Flash does not have any fancy UI, but not needed. You gonna fine tune motor to your preference and then no need to touch it.

That noise of M560 is not that bad. People are not noticing me when I reach them. When you revving it to high rpms and full power then there is some noise. But worth that power.

I'm sure your product is great, but I don't think it would help with my problem. Even if I'm able to set the Assistance level %, max motor power for the given level would still be reached too early, when I'm pedaling at ~150W. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Yes, I think I like spinning at higher cadences than the average user, coming from a road background. At 60 RPM the M560 noise is okay, but that's where I shift to an easier gear. Low cadence is bad not only for the drive train but also your joints if you are producing a reasonable amount of power.

 

[Dado]

And thats exactly parameter Assistance level % - sensitivity to pedalling or power multiplication.

If you set 50% you need to push 300W on pedals to get motor assistance 150W. And Max power is limiting power from top. So if you set 20% you get max 0.2 x 25A = 5A, so cca 250W max electrical. And thats cca 0.8 x 250W = 200W on the rear wheel from motor.

 

[gsoros]

Thanks Dado, I understand now. Sent you an email.

 

[xtraman122]

The two biggest settings that change the feel and apparent power of the motor are the acceleration and assistance %. Those two, when fine tuned how you want them, really let you get whatever sort of feel you want out of it. For me I leave the acceleration down at 2 and assistance somewhere in the 300% area to stop it from just feeling like it’s accelerating on its own without much pedal input. I forget the exact assistance % but it’s somewhere around 300% or below.

 

[Misenko]

The two biggest settings that change the feel and apparent power of the motor are the acceleration and assistance %. Those two, when fine tuned how you want them, really let you get whatever sort of feel you want out of it. For me I leave the acceleration down at 2 and assistance somewhere in the 300% area to stop it from just feeling like it’s accelerating on its own without much pedal input. I forget the exact assistance % but it’s somewhere around 300% or below.

This looks like what I would need. So for this I need that K1 tool to set it up ? Not possible with standard apps without additional hardware ?

 

[xtraman122]

This looks like what I would need. So for this I need that K1 tool to set it up ? Not possible with standard apps without additional hardware ?

Correct, either the BESST Tool and software or the K1 tool where you edit a config file with the tool then uploads. That config file is all the BESST software is modifying anyway, so the K1 is a cheaper/easier way to do it, you just don't get the fancy interface of BESST (Which is a bit of a mess anyway like all things Bafang).

 

[Misenko]

Correct, either the BESST Tool and software or the K1 tool where you edit a config file with the tool then uploads. That config file is all the BESST software is modifying anyway, so the K1 is a cheaper/easier way to do it, you just don't get the fancy interface of BESST (Which is a bit of a mess anyway like all things Bafang).

I see, thanks for advice Let’s see if I like it better than Bosch at the end. Think I will go K1 route, that guy is from same city as me so hopefully I will get touch with him later.

 

[Dado]

Misenko, K1 has same settings as Besst Pro. Less hassle.
It is really strange, missing Assistance % in Go app.

Xtraman, you riding Accel 2? Interesting. Is good for less stress on a drivetrain. Is like 2 sec ramp up time.

 

[xtraman122]

Misenko, K1 has same settings as Besst Pro. Less hassle.
It is really strange, missing Assistance % in Go app.

Xtraman, you riding Accel 2? Interesting. Is good for less stress on a drivetrain. Is like 2 sec ramp up time.

Yeah I’ll have to grab a full output of my settings from BESST. I only bother with 3 of the assist levels and just cycle between those, but 90%+ of my driving of my riding in one of them.

 

[Misenko]

Misenko, K1 has same settings as Besst Pro. Less hassle.
It is really strange, missing Assistance % in Go app.

Xtraman, you riding Accel 2? Interesting. Is good for less stress on a drivetrain. Is like 2 sec ramp up time.

Thanks, I will get in touch with you as soon as I have bike completed. I’m from Bratislava so hopefully it won’t be an issue Bosch has these settings, do you think it’s possible to get close to it with K1 tool for Bafang? I don’t expect to have it the same, Bosch done this really well but at least get close to it would be fine.

 

[Dado]

Yes, is almost same settings. Just it does not mean it will be smooth as Bosch.

 

[xtraman122]

Thanks, I will get in touch with you as soon as I have bike completed. I’m from Bratislava so hopefully it won’t be an issue Bosch has these settings, do you think it’s possible to get close to it with K1 tool for Bafang? I don’t expect to have it the same, Bosch done this really well but at least get close to it would be fine.

View attachment 166700

I’m sure you can find something you like. I haven’t ridden a Bosch, but I’d expect their “dynamic” to equate to Bafang’s acceleration and torque will just be what Bafang lists as power percentage. That’s just limiting the max current to a percentage of the normal maximum, 25A in the case of a 760W M560 for example. If you set that to 50% expect to get roughly 50% of the max 140Nm or whatever the current advertised torque value is.

 

[Sayonara]

Once my new controller arrives I hope it is the same v1.5 as I had before.. extremely minimal over run and it was perfect in every way for my riding.

I requested a v1.5 but I hope I'm getting the same version instead of a one with over run.

Sadly Bafang took over a week to send more controllers to their Poland warehouse so I still have to wait probably at least 2 weeks for it to arrive in Finland and be installed into my motor etc.


@Dado would you be able to send me to correct v1.5 files to compere to the ones they will send me?

Okey an update on my situation... New controller did not fix it and neither did new controller+new torque sensor.. apparently one or two of the bearings had gone bad also but we never found a fix for my motor..

The bikeshop I used was extremely helpful and more than fair to me though. He changed one new bearing, new controller and new torque sensor and didn't charge me anything for all of this. Not even for his time.

One odd thing is that apparently when the new controller came in it was shaped differently and and to be switched to the old parts since it wouldn't fit. I guess it somehow hit the torque sensor or something. I will get my bike back tomorrow and I will ask exactly what he meant with this. The controller was ordered from bafang and they sent it to their EU warehouse in Poland first and bikeshop ordered it from there.

So good news is that I have a motor with new controller and torque sensor for spare parts for free and bad news is that I need a new motor...


Since bafang has released some of the new m560 RS motors for sale I asked him to ask if and for how much bafang would sell one for me. Once I will get an update about RS I will let you know.

Once I get that update I have to decide if I wanna be one of the first testers of the new RS motor or should I order the regular m560 motor. I did see someone saying that the new RS motor feels as good as the DJI motor.

Please let me know what you would choose!

Also.. if anyone have any idea what the fuck is wrong with my motor I'm all ears..

 

[Sayonara]

One odd thing is that apparently when the new controller came in it was shaped differently and and to be switched to the old parts since it wouldn't fit. I guess it somehow hit the torque sensor or something. I will get my bike back tomorrow and I will ask exactly what he meant with this.

Okey so the thing was that the controller came with the motor cover. They apparently have updated the seal where the crank axle/torque sensor is. The seal in the motor cover was almost double the width and hit the axle inside the cover. He noticed that the seal was dragging and causing friction felt by pedalling. He changed the controller from the new motor cover to the old one and no problems at all. I will take a picture of the seal later.

He asked Bafang about the RS motor. They told him someone named Violet will get back to him about it. We are now waiting for their reply. Will update regarding the RS motor availability and price later on.

 

[Dado]

Chili was writing she has 3 RS motors to sell. I am refusing now to be again a betatester.

 

[Sayonara]

Chili was writing she has 3 RS motors to sell. I am refusing now to be again a betatester.

Do you have a contact info to her?

 

[Sayonara]

@Dado I saw your post saying first beta motors won't have the PEEK gears. Where did you get this info? I saw this advertised in Facebook saying they would have PEEK gears.

 

[Dado]

Filip from FB already got them. And is steel.