2023 Giant Trance X E+ / E+ Elite

[mrhaboobi]

Wife has a trance advanced elite 2 . Sea sparkle colour. Couple questions.

1) any benefit putting a longer fork?
2) can a 29 rear be fitted. On climbing tge 27 pushes her too far back letting the front wheel lift.
3) range extender the only option or can 500/600/ larger battery fit?

Thanks

 

[John_A]

Wife has a trance advanced elite 2 . Sea sparkle colour. Couple questions.

1) any benefit putting a longer fork?
2) can a 29 rear be fitted. On climbing tge 27 pushes her too far back letting the front wheel lift.
3) range extender the only option or can 500/600/ larger battery fit?

Thanks

1. Not really You could go to 160 but you’d hardly notice. It would also make the front end even lighter

2 No (toward and longer stem might help)

3 no bigger battery available

 

[trailaddict]

I've put a 160mm Fork and a Shock with 55mm Stroke on mine to get more travel.

And yes, no big rear wheel and no bigger battery.

Work on her Uphill skills to get the front end weighted.

 

[Montana St Alum]

Wife has a trance advanced elite 2 . Sea sparkle colour. Couple questions.

1) any benefit putting a longer fork?
2) can a 29 rear be fitted. On climbing tge 27 pushes her too far back letting the front wheel lift.
3) range extender the only option or can 500/600/ larger battery fit?

Thanks

I have the E3. That fork can be extended to 160mm. I did and there is no benefit that I can discern (especially if you have trouble keeping the front tire planted!).
I think you could get a 2.8" wide tire on the back, but if you tried to put a 29 on there, you'd have to have such a small tire that it would not be a benefit. If keeping the front planted is a problem, the seat may not be properly positioned. Even with a 160 fork, and riser bars, I have not noticed any wandering up front.
I doubt you could replace the battery with anything but the stock 400.

 

[John_A]

Doubt you’d get a 2.8 tyre in the back. I wasn’t happy with the clearance on a 2.6

 

[Montana St Alum]

Doubt you’d get a 2.8 tyre in the back. I wasn’t happy with the clearance on a 2.6

I have a 27.5x2.6 DHRII on the back with .77 inch of clearance on each side. With a 2.8, I'd have .67 inch on both sides.
That's plenty of room in Utah's dry dusty conditions, but maybe not enough if you ride in muddy conditions a lot.

 

[bglidin]

Figured out how to get more ventilation for overheating !!

 

[bglidin]

Anyone know where to source a skid plate for the trance Elite ?

 

[DaveMatthews]

Anyone know where to source a skid plate for the trance Elite ?

Maybe here

Giant Skidplate Motor Cover Trance E+ & Intrigue E+

Giant Skidplate Motor Cover | suitable for all GiantTrance E+ & Intrigue E+ models from 2019 | protects the SyncDrive motor from dirt and splash water.

www.ebike24.com

 

[bglidin]

Maybe here

Giant Skidplate Motor Cover Trance E+ & Intrigue E+

Giant Skidplate Motor Cover | suitable for all GiantTrance E+ & Intrigue E+ models from 2019 | protects the SyncDrive motor from dirt and splash water.

www.ebike24.com

Thanks I have the LBS ordering the stock cover but am looking for something like Rock Guardz/ Amygos.

 

[Petter]

Has anyone tried to fit a Fox Float X2 on a Trance E+ Elite?

 

[LP88]

Has anyone tried to fit a Fox Float X2 on a Trance E+ Elite?

Like this? Sorry, late to the party (did this last year).... 185x55 (2.5mm longer stroke) as others have done without issue.

 

[LP88]

Also, someone was asking about difficulty of removing the Ride Control Ergo (handlebar switch). It is very easy. just pick up the front flap of the Ride Control Ergo from the front edge (it's magnetic) and find a 2mm allen key bolt underneath. Remove this and disconnect the connector for the RC Ergo and pull it through the headset (you will need to completely loosen the headset so it doesn't pinch, and probably remove the rubber grommet from the headset cover which is very tricky to refit). If you're not changing power modes all the time you can just single press the power button on the RC Go to change through modes and tidy up your handlebars a bit...

You can also completely replace the headset with a conventional one to eliminate the annoying creaking/looseness. See photos of a mate's bike I did ( use the cable port cover with 3 holes affectionately known as the 'cock and balls' - you know why). Or go something like the Sixpack Millennium ICR stem, and an ICR headset with a metal compression ring - which I intend to do...

View attachment DSC03301.jpg

 

[Yetibos]

Hi there,
I would like to know more details in order to get a light e-bike build...will be nice if we can create a list with the Trance E+ Elite shared here and the weight and size info??
Something like this maybe?:

User	Model	Size	Weight	Modifications
Yetibos	E+ Elite 0	L	19,8	Yes, hope brakes and DH case tyres

 

[Montana St Alum]

Elite 3 with carbon bars, a 250 gram saddle, lighter discs Assegai front/DHR2 rear and Chester pedals is 46 pounds.
I just got an ARI Nebo Pro with a wheelset and Continental tires I had laying around plus carbon bars I had laying around (I have way too much extra parts!) that came in at 40 pounds even. 18.18 Kg with 360 gtam Chester pedals added onto that. I'll review later.

 

[Yetibos]

Also, someone was asking about difficulty of removing the Ride Control Ergo (handlebar switch). It is very easy. just pick up the front flap of the Ride Control Ergo from the front edge (it's magnetic) and find a 2mm allen key bolt underneath. Remove this and disconnect the connector for the RC Ergo and pull it through the headset (you will need to completely loosen the headset so it doesn't pinch, and probably remove the rubber grommet from the headset cover which is very tricky to refit). If you're not changing power modes all the time you can just single press the power button on the RC Go to change through modes and tidy up your handlebars a bit...

You can also completely replace the headset with a conventional one to eliminate the annoying creaking/looseness. See photos of a mate's bike I did ( use the cable port cover with 3 holes affectionately known as the 'cock and balls' - you know why). Or go something like the Sixpack Millennium ICR stem, and an ICR headset with a metal compression ring - which I intend to do...

View attachment 157331View attachment 157332View attachment 157334

Nice rig! Would you mind sharing the weight and frame size?
I didn’t know about that stem — looks like a clean setup: https://www.bike24.es/productos/803744

Just for your info, I’ve ordered this top headset that avoids routing the cables through the bearing; instead, they’re routed externally

Easybikeparts ZS56 ICR Upper Headset Assembly for integrated cable rou

Easybikeparts ZS56 ICR Upper Headset Assembly for Integrated Cable Routing Are you tired of dealing with cables running through your upper headset bearing, turning routine bike maintenance into a time-consuming chore? Upgrade to the Easybikeparts ZS56 ICR Upper Headset Assembly and make...

easybikeparts.co.uk

 

[Yetibos]

Like this? Sorry, late to the party (did this last year).... 185x55 (2.5mm longer stroke) as others have done without issue.View attachment 157329View attachment 157330

Don't you mind to share the weight and frame size?
Please, everyone who wants to share some info, I can add it into the table:

User	Model	Size	Weight	Modifications
Yetibos	Elite 0	L	19,8kg/43,65lb	hope brakes and DH case tyres
Montana St Alum	Elite 3		20.9kg/46lb	handlebar, sadle, pedals…
LP88 (friend)	Elite 0	M		cockpit, brakes
LP88	Elite 2	L		Suspension, wheels, group-set, brakes…
thebradjohns	Elite 3	M
Montana St Alum	Elite 3	M	20,8kg/45,84lb

 

[Montana St Alum]

Don't you mind to share the weight and frame size?
Please, everyone who wants to share some info, I can add it into the table:

User	Model	Size	Weight	Modifications
Yetibos	Elite 0	L	19,8kg/43,65lb	hope brakes and DH case tyres
Montana St Alum	Elite 3		18,18kg/40lb	handlebar, sadle, pedals…
LP88 (friend)	Elite 0	M		cockpit, brakes
LP88	Elite 2	L		Suspension, wheels, group-set, brakes…
thebradjohns	Elite 3	M
Montana St Alum	Elite 3	M	20,8kg/45,84lb

I'm sorry for the confusion I caused.
My medium Giant Elite 3 is 46 pounds, or 20.9 Kg as described. It's my Ari Nebo that comes in at 40
Lbs or 18.18 Kg.

 

[Yetibos]

I'm sorry for the confusion I caused.
My medium Giant Elite 3 is 46 pounds, or 20.9 Kg as described. It's my Ari Nebo that comes in at 40
Lbs or 18.18 Kg.

Edited, Thanks.

 

[eciv]

Also, someone was asking about difficulty of removing the Ride Control Ergo (handlebar switch). It is very easy. just pick up the front flap of the Ride Control Ergo from the front edge (it's magnetic) and find a 2mm allen key bolt underneath. Remove this and disconnect the connector for the RC Ergo and pull it through the headset (you will need to completely loosen the headset so it doesn't pinch, and probably remove the rubber grommet from the headset cover which is very tricky to refit). If you're not changing power modes all the time you can just single press the power button on the RC Go to change through modes and tidy up your handlebars a bit...

You can also completely replace the headset with a conventional one to eliminate the annoying creaking/looseness. See photos of a mate's bike I did ( use the cable port cover with 3 holes affectionately known as the 'cock and balls' - you know why). Or go something like the Sixpack Millennium ICR stem, and an ICR headset with a metal compression ring - which I intend to do...

View attachment 157331View attachment 157332View attachment 157334

Thanks for the info on the Ridecontrol.
I am glad I am not the only one who finds it fustrating that yo have to smash everything in the headset just right to get it to stop creaking. I have found that you have to depress the black shim/cable management spacer firmly in the bearing to stop from over tightning the headset to remove the creak. This is a pain if you ever just want to change the stem height.

 

[eciv]

Anyone remove the Fox Live Valve from there E+ Elite? Got a good deal on the +1 Live valve equipped bike and as cool as the technology is, and as much as I have tried to get old float and fit4 working for me, I think I'm over it and want to switch it out for normal Suspension. I already have a Fox 36 Grip 2 and a float X. I think my biggest worry is when I go to pull the cabling will it be a tangled mess of spaghetti inside the frame?

 

[Montana St Alum]

Anyone remove the Fox Live Valve from there E+ Elite? Got a good deal on the +1 Live valve equipped bike and as cool as the technology is, and as much as I have tried to get old float and fit4 working for me, I think I'm over it and want to switch it out for normal Suspension. I already have a Fox 36 Grip 2 and a float X. I think my biggest worry is when I go to pull the cabling will it be a tangled mess of spaghetti inside the frame?

Can you just turn Live Valve off, or set parameters that prevent it from providing input?

 

[eciv]

Can you just turn Live Valve off, or set parameters that prevent it from providing input?

Yes, you can turn it off and customize some settings. No hate on the Live valve it works well to lock and unlock the suspension. Im just not happy with the FIT4 dampner in the fork and the older Float DPX2 shock the Live valve is based on. Its not terrible, just limited in adjustability.
I would rather have something that decends better then climbs.

 

[Montana St Alum]

Yes, you can turn it off and customize some settings. No hate on the Live valve it works well to lock and unlock the suspension. Im just not happy with the FIT4 dampner in the fork and the older Float DPX2 shock the Live valve is based on. Its not terrible, just limited in adjustability.
I would rather have something that decends better then climbs.

I agree. The Fit4 isn't that good. I got an Ari Nebo with the RS Lyric Ultimate and it's really good. I also pulled the tokens out of the 35 Gold fork on my E3 and serviced the upper and it feels really nice, if you're budget minded.
You could try pulling tokens and doing a lower leg service. Makes a world of difference! I always remove tokens, but the Ultimate comes without them installed.

 

[Montana St Alum]

Do you have more information for full power trance?

There is a Trance E and a Trance X. Both are full power in that both are 85NM, I think. The battery on the Trance is bigger.
Which of these are you asking about?

 

[Petter]

I want to remove the rear brakeline from the headset and use the port in the frame, therefore I need to change the brakeline. I also what to use that port to reroute the cable from the Ride control ergo (handlebar switch).
Does anyone know if the rear brakeline is mounted in a liner inside the frame? Or do I have to remove the motor and battery to change it?

What headset/topcap can I use to replace the stock one?

 

[Montana St Alum]

I want to remove the rear brakeline from the headset and use the port in the frame, therefore I need to change the brakeline. I also what to use that port to reroute the cable from the Ride control ergo (handlebar switch).
Does anyone know if the rear brakeline is mounted in a liner inside the frame? Or do I have to remove the motor and battery to change it?

What headset/topcap can I use to replace the stock one?

I don't know what the best replacement headset would be, but I would call a shop that sells and services Giant and ask their mechs all of these questions. They'll probably know.
Regarding the port in the frame, if you have some cable or unused line, try to run it through. If it routes easily, there's probably a guide/liner in there. I expect there probably is. Giant used them in my 2018 Trance Adv 29.

 

[eciv]

I don't know what the best replacement headset would be, but I would call a shop that sells and services Giant and ask their mechs all of these questions. They'll probably know.
Regarding the port in the frame, if you have some cable or unused line, try to run it through. If it routes easily, there's probably a guide/liner in there. I expect there probably is. Giant used them in my 2018 Trance Adv 29.

My bike came with plugs to put in the cable holes in the headset if you didnt want to replace it. Giantbikespares.com also sells them if you didnt get them with your bike.

 

[Petter]

Today I had some time left so I took my chance to remove the cables from the headset…

Put the bike in the bikestand and removed the wheels, steer and fork. Removed the switch in the toptube and disconnected the cable from the handlebar switch. The rearbrakeline was next, cut it behind the lever and took both the cable and the brakeline out of the topcap. Installed the plugs in the cableholes.

Then took a good look at the brakeline, there is a liner, but that mostly for noiseprevention, so I decided to make a piece of string at the old brakeline and while removing it pulling the string through the frame. That went according plan…

Started from the rear, it was a bit of a challenge to get the brakeline through the lower rear fork, but thankfully the piece of string helped a lot. The next challenge was the frame, and when inserting the brakeline I pushed the black liner in the frame, bummer….

So decided to loosen the bolts from the engine and take a look from underneath. Left the motor hangina on the rear bolts and I could just reach the liner and put it back through the frame. Second chance, holding the black liner, feeding the brakeline gently in while pulling on the string. Slowly but steady getting there.

Almost…

With some 2 inch to go the string snapped, but thankfully I could push it through and out of the liner. Crisis aboarded. Feeding the brakeline and cable through the port in the frame and installed the cover. The next task was to build everything back, connect everything and fill the rear brake.
And a few hours later no more cables through the headset and a working bike.

What did I learned?
A (Giant) E-bike is not an easy bike to work on and I can understand why the LBS need more time to get some things done. I already asked my LBS (Giant dealer) to do this job and install anonther headset.
They told me that it was not possible to install another headset then the one in the bike and it would take them about 6 to 8 hours to do all the work…

Changing the brakeline took me about 2,5 hours, didn’t change the topside of the headset (yet) and installed the original one for now. I only had to buy a new brakeline sofar, original one was to short to reroute.
So first step, if you want to do this too, check if the length of your rear brakeline is long enough, then you don’t have to change it. Mine was probably shorted by my LBS.
Definitley a job you can do yourself, but not for the faintharted or beginners. Definitely need some experience wrenching on (E-)bikes and brakes and have all the tools needed at your disposal.

 

[Nasty Nick]

I saw some discussion of putting a angle adjust headset on the elite. But I didn't see anybody's feedback who did it. Has anyone done it? How many degrees did you slacken it? How do you like the changes to the handling?

Personally I do find the steering kind of weird, but I'm not sure what it is. It definitely doesn't feel confident descending on. But some of that might be the shitty grip damper spiking all over the place.