So todays ride, 10 miles and 1000ft of climbing to work in 27mins full turbo all the way, used 18% battery, no charger at work, Then 39 miles home with 5000ft climbing and for home with 10% battery. And I still find it funny when people do all they can to say bad things about the Amflow without ever riding one ?
Dji avinox- Amflow - Discussion
- Thread starter Farmernz
- Start date
It’s just the dissector rear is a shit tyre.
Yeah fair enough, I have noticed that everyone seems to be gravitating to enduro these days.
I tend to do a mix of 'genuine' trail riding and then Welsh/Scottish/Lake District trail centre red graded routes. I've got DHR2 on the front atm and an Agressor back- what the bike came with. The DHR2 is great, rear seems fine to me.
Yeah I guess that's what confused me the most as that's Troy Brosnan's design for 'downhill race' - but Maxxis also say for summer riding/dry trails.
We've just been through UK winter so I wonder if that's not helping that tyre... I might swap it for a DHR2 anyway.
Or a DHF if you’re maxxis inclined, the F and R don’t mean front/rear, it stands for freeride/race.
I've built a 27.5 mullet wheel to go on my Carbon Pro. I've fitted a DHR 2, 2.6 tyre. I have always liked the DHR as a rear wheel. And as I like technical climbing, Having wider tyre means I can run lower pressures as well as the increased contact patch.
Rockhopper70
Active member
It’s the carcass strength. The bike is heavy, possibly ridden by first time ebikers who lack biking finesse. So if you hit a water bar or edge at any sort of speed, you risk ripping the tire wall and ruining your ride as it can’t be fixed. Reviewers reccomend thicker carcass tyres to minimise the risk of damage. But thicker carcass = greater weight so it doesn’t look good on the scales. Hence flimsy wall tyres fitted as stock.
Rockhopper70
Active member
but they are different tread patterns too.
Peaky Rider
E*POWAH Master
I HATE THEM, cos I've not got one and my mate has.
Would get one if I hadn't already got three e-mtbs in the garage and can't be arsed trying to sell a couple.
Pyr0
E*POWAH Master
I just wish they did the black frame with the lower spec.
Riiiiight right right, that makes a tonne of sense, thanks.
I might see how I get on with them, but I do like front wheel confidence so I might get a DHR on there. Currently have a DHR on the front and it works fantastically.
Indeed, I currently have a DHR on the front and it rides fantastically. I'm tempted to either DHR front and rear.
We have Maxxis Assegai DD front and rear for most of the year, but only in winter have something that clears mud a bit better (currently Maxxis High Roller 3's). Whatever works in your conditions is best.
Rockhopper70
Active member
Everyone seems to gravitate to maxxis, but other brands are available. Magic Mary or Tacky Chan up front and a big betty/eddie current on the rear, from Schwalbe, is a good combo. Michelin sets can be picked up fairly cheap as they simply aren’t popular. Unless you are a riding god, I doubt very many of us reach the limits of grip when “just going out for a ride”….
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In Australia. Maxxis are priced really well. So I stick to Maxxis. Many of the big brands like Merida use them as well.
I'm an Assegai on the front. DHR on the rear person for every bike I've owned for the last 6 years. And that is the way I'll run my Amflow. It works for my riding and my tyre budget.
BTW. Kenda are priced well here as well, and I tried a Kenda Nevegal on the rear. It performed really poorly. It was on the bike one ride only. I tore my shins up due to the continuous traction loss when climbing.
Not heard of Kenda for many years. Tried so many different brands over the years and nothing ever stood out as being any better just some wear a lot quicker. Maybe I'm just riding slower that everyone. I look for a bargain nowadays . Victoria Mazza and Martella on at present rear one not the best in mud ,not sure which one is on rear though. I put on spare wheels for a while recently Johnny Watt on front that is terrible on wet grass ,its been hanging in shed for a couple years i reckon.
Thought I’d update on the experience I had with RonHack. Admittedly, I was nervous about buying overseas, without knowing much about the shop I was ordering from. But, I really wanted to get this bike and it didn’t look like they were coming to US anytime soon. After doing a bit of research, and connecting with the customer support team I felt comfortable enough to make the purchase. Granted, I had to wait four months due to Chinese New Year, but the bike arrived and the RonHack team kept me updated along the way. Overall, I’m pleased with the experience and absolutely love the Amflow PL. I’ve been riding a Cannondale Moterra SL 2 for the past year as my first intro to the world of emtb. The Amflow PL feels like the bikes I rode before switching to a emtb. After learning to ride the SL2 this past year, jumping on the Amflow felt natural right away. I guess geometry matters. I don’t feel like I’m on an emtb. Huge improvement and super fun to ride.
beutelfuchs
Active member
Does the Dji avinox transmit rider power via Ant+? So it's recorded by Garmin bike computers for example?
No.
The bike records the ride and then you can send it to Strava if you pair it up.
beutelfuchs
Active member
And if you then download the .fit file from Strava, does it include rider power data?
Yes it does. But it only has a sampling rate of 10 seconds. So if you are steady at 100 watts and you do 800 watts for 9 seconds in between sampling points it won’t capture that burst of power at all. Likewise if you hit 800 watts for a split second at each sampling point you could log 800 watt for the whole ride. It’s not usable data really, avinox issue, not strava obviously. I’m hoping they change that soon.
beutelfuchs
Active member
Thank you very for much! A pity, but unfortunately true for most motors except specialized.
I got the impression looking at my Bosch power data that it's a more frequent sampling. Maybe not tho.
Yeah, I have a Bosch powered Cube Stereo too, and the data it logs is much more high resolution. But even that isn't perfect. I have also read that the Bosch systems are somewhat inaccurate when compared to pedal or crank power meters. But I don't have either of those, so I couldn't say.
I'm confident that DJI will do something here, though. That head unit is easily capable of capturing more granular power data. I have a suspicion that something good will come in their spring update that they have promised. Including export fit files from their app.
Arrived today! Now I just need to get through this working day and I can build it!
Pyr0
E*POWAH Master
Does the Avinox display have a stealth mode allowing the bike to be ridden with the display off, or only turning on for a short time when pressing a button?
Greeno
Active member
When you guys are using the Auto function as opposed to Eco, Trail, or Turbo why would you need to change it at all?
Im guessing that the Auto feature is reactionary as opposed to being able to anticipate and additional power needed correct.
If climbing up a tech section just make sure your in trail or turbo mode before you get to that short section.
Another question, how is the bike powering off if you just touch a button?
Do you not have to press and hold it down for a second or so to activate?
Dont have an Amflow …yet…, still on my 23’ Levo but looking ahead and taking in the good as well as any bad that shows up.
Carry on..
Im guessing that the Auto feature is reactionary as opposed to being able to anticipate and additional power needed correct.
If climbing up a tech section just make sure your in trail or turbo mode before you get to that short section.
Another question, how is the bike powering off if you just touch a button?
Do you not have to press and hold it down for a second or so to activate?
Dont have an Amflow …yet…, still on my 23’ Levo but looking ahead and taking in the good as well as any bad that shows up.
Carry on..
