Cube one77 2025

General question regarding cranks: if you have replaced the stock cranks, was shortening the cranks the only reason or were you also after better looks? I’m playing with the idea of changing to shorter cranks, this bike sits quite low. Way too low compared to my hardtail. Hope cranks seem like a good choice, a bit pricey though. Any other good looking alternatives that won’t obliterate one’s bank account?
 
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General question regarding cranks: if you have replaced the stock cranks, was shortening the cranks the only reason or were you also after better looks? I’m playing with the idea of changing to shorter cranks, this bike sits quite low. Way too low compared to my hardtail. Hope cranks seem like a good choice, a bit pricey though. Any other good looking alternatives that won’t obliterate one’s bank account?
E thirteen cranks are good quality,i have 155 mm ones on mine,acid cranks are awful,they have a habit of thread stripping!
 
A video is worth 10,000 words:


Mostly a recap of everything that has been said in this thread, I thought I could make a 3 minute video with loads of insight, it ended up being 8minutes and forgot to mention a bunch of stuff :ROFLMAO:
 
A video is worth 10,000 words:


Mostly a recap of everything that has been said in this thread, I thought I could make a 3 minute video with loads of insight, it ended up being 8minutes and forgot to mention a bunch of stuff :ROFLMAO:
Nice little review.
Mase my choice harder 😅
I can get the slx on the 4300€, or the moterra on 4600€.
Mottera is gorgeous and might be more pedal friendly, but the ep801...
The 177 in white or violet, damn cool, althoug compared to even the reign seems to have be more short/less angle on fork. And the sound, it seems so quiet going down the trail in the video, more than my analog bike
 
Yes, that was one thing I forgot to mention: This is the quietest bike I have ever had going downhill, you can hear some noises in the video but this is because there was a ton of sticks and stuff on the trail due to high winds the last week!
 
Very silent bike..loving mine and with 155 cranks it’s not so much an issue,I’d say the only thing that took me a while to get a happy result has been the stock suspension,volume spacers galore and all sorted..though the rebound is so fast for me I’m like one click off full on the front forks @85psi and 87kg with 20% sag..the wheel still leaves the ground on a squish push down test but only just😂btw a super soft tacky chan on the front and stick on rear is an insane combo for speed and railing..it’s almost a struggle to to get the bike straight again after crazy lean angle 😂 IMG_3542.jpeg
 
A video is worth 10,000 words:


Mostly a recap of everything that has been said in this thread, I thought I could make a 3 minute video with loads of insight, it ended up being 8minutes and forgot to mention a bunch of stuff :ROFLMAO:
Great video buddy 🙏regards the battery cover you can wind the top mounting screw in to get a good seal,the bottom white clip you can just push it in once you’ve fitted the cover(it’s on a ratchet)
 
Very silent bike..loving mine and with 155 cranks it’s not so much an issue,I’d say the only thing that took me a while to get a happy result has been the stock suspension,volume spacers galore and all sorted..though the rebound is so fast for me I’m like one click off full on the front forks @85psi and 87kg with 20% sag..the wheel still leaves the ground on a squish push down test but only just😂btw a super soft tacky chan on the front and stick on rear is an insane combo for speed and railing..it’s almost a struggle to to get the bike straight again after crazy lean angle 😂View attachment 156534
I must say that the first ride with the fox suspension, especially the fox 38 was almost horrible experience. I was expecting “softer” ride. Luckily I don’t have the tool to open the top cap to remove the tokens (not yet at least, should arrive early next week). And I’m also upgrading the brake rotors to floating type and also sizing up the front rotor. Stock rotors on the slx build aren’t the best.
 
As @Trickz said, I ran the stock fork pretty much fastest rebound and found it to track great, but it topped out (i.e. clanking sensation when bunny hopping). I added a few clicks of rebound to try to balance the top out with the feel. Fast rebound will help with low BB also.

I put 220mm rotors because I had that on my wheels, but I just love the Shimano levers compared to my codes and maguras that I never enjoyed the feel of.

I think the pads are probably also quite rubbish, I have galfer ebike specific ones waiting to be put in once it stops raining every weekend (they wear out fast but can stop a barge)
 
A video is worth 10,000 words:


Mostly a recap of everything that has been said in this thread, I thought I could make a 3 minute video with loads of insight, it ended up being 8minutes and forgot to mention a bunch of stuff :ROFLMAO:
Just put a velcro strap around the cover
 
A video is worth 10,000 words:


Mostly a recap of everything that has been said in this thread, I thought I could make a 3 minute video with loads of insight, it ended up being 8minutes and forgot to mention a bunch of stuff :ROFLMAO:
Thanks for the video, with this I immediately found why the bike was creaking 👍
 
After having problems with my Whyte e160 which I had to sell, I’ve just purchased one of these SLX in white. Is there anything I should look out for when I receive it other than the standard stuff? Can’t wait to finally get back on a bike.
 
As @Trickz said, I ran the stock fork pretty much fastest rebound and found it to track great, but it topped out (i.e. clanking sensation when bunny hopping). I added a few clicks of rebound to try to balance the top out with the feel. Fast rebound will help with low BB also.

I put 220mm rotors because I had that on my wheels, but I just love the Shimano levers compared to my codes and maguras that I never enjoyed the feel of.

I think the pads are probably also quite rubbish, I have galfer ebike specific ones waiting to be put in once it stops raining every weekend (they wear out fast but can stop a barge)
Is there a specific fork adapter mount you need for the 220 conversion?just looking now😂
 
General question regarding cranks: if you have replaced the stock cranks, was shortening the cranks the only reason or were you also after better looks? I’m playing with the idea of changing to shorter cranks, this bike sits quite low. Way too low compared to my hardtail. Hope cranks seem like a good choice, a bit pricey though. Any other good looking alternatives that won’t obliterate one’s bank account?
Not sure about good looking but I've fitted Miranda 150mm cranks to my last three Bosch eBikes
Under 50 pounds on Amazon and worked a treat
 
Man, I have had this bike under my radar for the past weeks since the Turbo Levo is going to cost a fortune. This is such an amazing bang for buck, price-wise. Even the top spec one for around 7k. Crazy that there is almost no review on these on youtube ...

Ps: great video I can spend hours just watching a POV of someone rocking trails with just the bike and nature sound
 
After I started another thread on my “mullet musings” this is the bike I’ve settled on. I would actually prefer the base model Trek Rail+ but I can’t get past the insane value of this bike and the lighter weight for getting it in and out of the car, whilst away with work, is another bonus. Plus the geometry is fairly similar.
Holding deposit paid, now trying to get it through work.
I’ve got the 145mm cranks already, plus better wheels and a 170mm dropper (I’m getting a medium with a 150mm factory dropper).
Will action those issues/fixes identified in this thread (thanks to all those who contribute, amazing forum this) and then ride the tits off it!
One in, one out rule though so my wife’s Mondraker Crafty will be up for sale when this arrives. 😁
 
A video is worth 10,000 words:


Mostly a recap of everything that has been said in this thread, I thought I could make a 3 minute video with loads of insight, it ended up being 8minutes and forgot to mention a bunch of stuff :ROFLMAO:
very nice video

To raise the bottom bracket, I recommend, above all, putting the Zeb at 190mm and the headset in the "high" position. It's very cheap, the headset stays at 63.5 and the bottom bracket rises almost 1cm. I don't think you'll really have a problem with the warranty.

I already have 155 cranks and 2.5 tires
 
Starting to enjoy it now it’s not creaking. Forks bedding in nicely but I’m still tempted with either a damper upgrade or a red zeb 🥱. Got some burgtec stuff coming soon (bar, stem).

IMG_0468.jpeg
 
Is there a specific fork adapter mount you need for the 220 conversion?just looking now😂

Sorry missed this: I just used the Galfer one, they do a +20mm adapter as an offset with 2 pairs of short bolts, works well.

Also I noticed one of the bolts hidden behind the seattube had come loose, despite checking them 3 weeks ago, so be aware that they need a check every so often. You can access them by removing the shock or deflating it to zero psi and sitting on the bike (remember to inflate in steps of 30-50psi then compress a few times).

Thanks for all the nice feedback on the video and thread, I was in the same boat as everyone else, waiting for a detailed video or article on the bike before buying it. Glad it helps!
 
You need this adapter, at least I did.
IMG_3820.jpeg


Same thoughts with the fork. I’m tempted to buy vorsprung smashpot. I have it on my hardtail, 140mm Yari + damper from fast suspension. I really enjoy the sensitivity of that fork. But, shouldn’t make hasty decisions or judgments, only two proper rides with fox 38. And let’s be honest, I ride this bike differently 😁 IMG_3830.jpeg
 
Got mine a week ago and have done about 140km already, I just can't stop riding it, it's so much fun.

Bear in mind it's my first ebike so I don't have much to compare to, but I just can't believe the power, never knew I could have so much fun searching out technical climbs, and I'm feeling incredibly confident on the descents on it. It jumps well and corners like it's on rails. I wouldn't say it's the most plush and forgiving bike I've ridden, actually feels quite stiff to me and I find it easy to whip around and hop about on the trail. I guess I'd say it rides a bit like a shorter travel bike, but with some extra back up travel for emergencies!

The one thing I haven't been completely happy with has been the suspension, particularly the forks - even running way below recommended air pressure I've been struggling to use more than 130mm travel, even hitting some pretty sizeable jumps, cornering hard and doing some steep chunky chutes. I also haven't found them particularly sensitive over small bumps.

Just opened the forks up and realised there were 2 volume tokens installed (I guess the shop I bought from installed them without asking me as I told them I'm nearly 100kg), hoping popping one of those out will help.

Only other thing I'll change is some shorter cranks, and I am just starting to get a bit of a creak so need to investigate that, but man the bike is awesome, can't believe the value compared to other Bosch Gen 5 bikes out there.

WhatsApp Image 2025-03-24 at 16.40.12.jpeg
 
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Added some rub patches, invisiframe, lever blades, changed bar/stem and added an Ultra Soft Mary to the front.
Set in non slack, but still like said above quite low BB so might persevere or try 160mm.
 
How can we identify if it is the low or high headset set up?
 
How can we identify if it is the low or high headset set up?
Here:

 
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Anyone able to share their fork settings (stock slx build), still struggling a bit to get things feeling plush.

I'm about 95kg in riding kit, running one volume token, 85psi, and rebound as slow as it can be (which still feels pretty fast to me!).

Feels like the suspension packs up a lot over repeated bumps, like a steep rooty section feels pretty harsh.

Cheers for any advice!
 
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