M820 Bafang - LIGHTCARBON LCE930 Frame (lightweight)

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Can't seem to get power to my display. I have a second display and that won't power up either, so I don't think the issue is with the display. Battery is fully charged and I have a brand new main cables setup. What should I be doing to troubleshoot my issue? I don't want to install everything back into the frame until I know it's working. All cables are securely connected.

Thanks

IMG_6687 2.JPG IMG_6689 2.JPG IMG_6690 2.JPG
 
Have you
a) Checked you have voltage at the motor
b) Connect the display you have mounted on the handle bars directly the cable going to the motor, hold the start switch under the the up / down toggles for a few seconds as it takes a while to start up.
 
Can't seem to get power to my display. I have a second display and that won't power up either, so I don't think the issue is with the display. Battery is fully charged and I have a brand new main cables setup. What should I be doing to troubleshoot my issue? I don't want to install everything back into the frame until I know it's working. All cables are securely connected.

Thanks

View attachment 148156 View attachment 148157 View attachment 148158
Where is speed sensor?
 
Can't seem to get power to my display.
Disconnect the battery from the engine, reconnect it and then check if the display starts. If it starts the first time and then doesn't start the next time, the engine controller is most likely damaged.

===edit===

Also try disconnecting the buttons from the display and reconnecting it - does it start? try bending the pins in the plug. Try shorting the pins responsible for "POWER" directly at the display for 3 seconds.
Buttons.jpg


If you have BESST TOOL, does it read the SN numbers of the controller and display?
 
Last edited:
good morning, I wonder if anyone knows which and where to find the cranksets for the m820 engine? I found the normal ones on aliexpress very cheap, but what if I wanted carbon ones?
thanks
 
good morning, I wonder if anyone knows which and where to find the cranksets for the m820 engine? I found the normal ones on aliexpress very cheap, but what if I wanted carbon ones?
thanks
You can use standard ISIS cranks. They don’t need to be bafang specific.
 
Hello

Do you know where I can buy a battery with more capacity for my LCE930?
I currently have a 410 watt 43 volt one.
Saludos
 
Hello

Do you know where I can buy a battery with more capacity for my LCE930?
I currently have a 410 watt 43 volt one.
Saludos
For 43V you can make a 13S3P DIY battery on 21700 cells - best LG M58T due to its high capacity. Nothing bigger will fit.
 
Does anyone know what tool I need to puth the spider on the motor and does it come with the kit when ordering from lightcarbon? I'm suspecting I need a Bosch lockring tool, but would be nice if somebody could confirm.
 
For 43V you can make a 13S3P DIY battery on 21700 cells - best LG M58T due to its high capacity. Nothing bigger will fit.
Hello
Thanks for answering everyone. Making the battery myself seems complicated, I have no idea how to do it.
 
Hello
Thanks for answering everyone. Making the battery myself seems complicated, I have no idea how to do it.
For someone who hasn't done it yet, it's a really difficult task, especially since in this case the battery system makes it difficult to weld in accordance with the rules. I've already made 2 batteries for LCE930, which are used in really difficult terrain (constant vibrations, impacts, small jumps) and they work - I wrote something about it somewhere in this thread... I'm convinced that it's a very solid construction - if you want I'll give you more tips on how I did it.
 
hi, today while trying the bike I noticed a strange noise from the engine when I pressed the pedal. I checked and it seems there is some play on the engine axle, I don't know if it's the freewheel or the engine itself. the engine is new, what can be done? thank you very much
 
Mine has really started to whine after about 150 miles. It's twice as loud as when it was new. I messaged bafang about replacement gear availability, no response yet.
 
Mine has really started to whine after about 150 miles. It's twice as loud as when it was new. I messaged bafang about replacement gear availability, no response yet.
It’s likely to be bearing failure due water ingress not the gear.
I suggest you should strip the motor down to avoid bigger problems with corrosion.
The bearings should be available from a local bearing shop.
You tube if you have the skills to do it yourself as it’s not diffcult.
 
It’s likely to be bearing failure due water ingress not the gear.
I suggest you should strip the motor down to avoid bigger problems with corrosion.
The bearings should be available from a local bearing shop.
You tube if you have the skills to do it yourself as it’s not diffcult.
I don't think that's the case, the engine is new and I've used it a couple of times... it seems like a game between the freewheel and the pedal
 
the m510 and m560 always came very dry from factory

i recommend a motor service, clean all old grease and put mobil shc100 grease. it will quiet things down
question is only how long it will last


my m510 stays very quiet for 500km
i repeat it every 1000km
 
For someone who hasn't done it yet, it's a really difficult task, especially since in this case the battery system makes it difficult to weld in accordance with the rules. I've already made 2 batteries for LCE930, which are used in really difficult terrain (constant vibrations, impacts, small jumps) and they work - I wrote something about it somewhere in this thread... I'm convinced that it's a very solid construction - if you want I'll give you more tips on how I did it.
hello

thanks for the collaboration.
At the moment I don't dare to make the drums on my own.
I was looking for a company that had it for sale.

If it's not an indiscretion, why should you build a battery with those characteristics yourself?

greetings
 
That’s beautiful and I love the color! I know you said it was a custom color so I understand if you’d rather not, but I would be very interested in the color code if you don’t mind.
Sorry I did not reply!! The Blue is Pantone 7463 and we love it
 
Anyone else very frustrated with the headset cable routing? I had a hell of a time getting all to fit (dropper, brake, electronics etc) and it seems to be chewing the hell out of the stuff that is routed in it. Does anyone have a step by step or instructions on the right way to do this? The opening in mine ends up being to one side....is this normal?
 
Anyone else very frustrated with the headset cable routing? I had a hell of a time getting all to fit (dropper, brake, electronics etc) and it seems to be chewing the hell out of the stuff that is routed in it. Does anyone have a step by step or instructions on the right way to do this? The opening in mine ends up being to one side....is this normal?
Yeah, my shifter housing got chewed up before I even finished setting up the bike, those integrated cable routing headset is such a pain to setup.
My advice, setup the dropper post first, hook it up with the lever and make sure it's working before inserting it into seat tube. I ran into some cable issue whereby the dropper post would inadvertently drops whenever I steer to one side, that was right after I mounted the motor and crank, and I have to redo all over again. Later on I discovered that cables need to have enough room to wiggle otherwise it would get yanked by the headset. Having said that, I have switched to Ritchey Upper Logic-E Comp headset, which I find it a little easier to setup.
One more tip to facilitate mounting the motor, you may ran into clearance issue when trying to mount up motor especially If the cables are too cluttered up. My trick was to group the cables into 2 bundles with string and hold them against the side wall to allow more room for the motor to slide in. Once the motor is lined up with the axles, I just undo and remove the strings
rit 3.jpg
Ritchey-Comp-Logic-E-Cartridge-Drop-In-33030817005_d.jpg
cable.jpg
 
Anyone else very frustrated with the headset cable routing? I had a hell of a time getting all to fit (dropper, brake, electronics etc) and it seems to be chewing the hell out of the stuff that is routed in it. Does anyone have a step by step or instructions on the right way to do this? The opening in mine ends up being to one side....is this normal?
It was very frustrating. I haven't wanted to open mine up again to inspect the cables/wiring knowing how painful it could be to get it back together. Once the riding season is over I will though.

I filed down and smoothed out the square edges at the bottom of the headset where the cables enter to reduce the chance of damage, time will tell if it helped.
 
Yeah, my shifter housing got chewed up before I even finished setting up the bike, those integrated cable routing headset is such a pain to setup.
My advice, setup the dropper post first, hook it up with the lever and make sure it's working before inserting it into seat tube. I ran into some cable issue whereby the dropper post would inadvertently drops whenever I steer to one side, that was right after I mounted the motor and crank, and I have to redo all over again. Later on I discovered that cables need to have enough room to wiggle otherwise it would get yanked by the headset. Having said that, I have switched to Ritchey Upper Logic-E Comp headset, which I find it a little easier to setup.
One more tip to facilitate mounting the motor, you may ran into clearance issue when trying to mount up motor especially If the cables are too cluttered up. My trick was to group the cables into 2 bundles with string and hold them against the side wall to allow more room for the motor to slide in. Once the motor is lined up with the axles, I just undo and remove the strings View attachment 148888View attachment 148890View attachment 148904
how about this? Neco Bike Threadless Headset Inner Cable Routing 44 52 55 56 49.7MM Tapered Straight Fork MTB Bearing Headset Internal - AliExpress 18, from your experience looks better ?
Thanks :)
 
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