If you had seen my cues review in this forum I 100% suggested not to buy the poor quality u6000 parts. Cassette is solid though.
The 10 speed deore linkglide mech and shifter work fine with the 48 cassette, despite Shimano saying max 43.
Review Shimano Linkglide 10 speed drivetrain.
- Thread starter Spin
- Start date
The 10 speed deore linkglide mech and shifter work fine with the 48 cassette, despite Shimano saying max 43.
rhythm_101
New Member
Sorry to dig up an old post, but how did you get on with the deore 10sp LG rear mech and XT 11 speed LG shifter? I would prefer a better quality 11 sp shifter, but I destroy rear mechs, so knowing that the cheaper Deore 10sp version works would be a great compromise,
Cheers
Amber Valley Guy
Well-known member
Yes it's fitted and all good. The only problem you'll probably run into is the original B screw is laughably short. I pinched the screw out of the SRAM derailleur I replaced (don't forget to swap over the small friction block before installing the longer screw).
When installed it's just a case of limiting the upper and lower screws to get the correct cassette range, and setting the B screw. The 11sp XT shifter works fine with the 10spd Deore derailleur. The shifter has single downshifts (going to a larger sprocket, easier pedalling) if using your forefinger, or double shifts if using your thumb. Which is great.
Shifting is a little slower, say 0.2 seconds which takes a while to compute that you need the pressure off the pedals slightly longer than normal, but once keyed in, it's a smooth firm shift. First ride setting the gear cable tension is also critical but easily done whilst riding, the drivetrain taking about 15 miles to bed in, it gets much smoother after those initial first miles and you change your 'off pedal pressure timing'. Single half shifts with the thumb (to a larger cog) aren't super accurate but work as your guessing the single shift point (bar the full double shift from the thumb).
Changing gear on techy climbs is WAY easier with the double shift, two full presses and you've moved 4 (over the NX shifter I had before) and being a 10spd and not a 12spd thats bloody fantastic for gradient changes. Here's a few pics:
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Amber Valley Guy
Well-known member
I forgot to add, you will need a spacer between the hub and cassette (you will probably already have one fitted on the HG driver). Ensure it's on before torquing up to 40NM!
rhythm_101
New Member
@Amber Valley Guy thanks for the detailed reply, this will definitely be my go to groupset when I build the bike!
Sam
Sam
Nyim
Member
Out of interest hows the Deore still going with the 48T? Hasn't packed a sad yet?
I'm thinking of fitting your combo. What size chainring do you have a front also?
The cassette is over a year old now and still working fine. Quite remarkable when i could burn out the 12t cog on an expensive sram cassette in under 6 months rendering it scrap.
Running the m5130 linkglide deore mech and shifter on 2 bikes.
I actually really like the dorky shift indicator window as well. Ive put a dab of white paint on it to highlight when its in the 13t cog as this is my preferred gear at the bikepark when pedalling off the ramp. Saves craning my neck round to look at it.
The sl has a 32t.
The full power a 34t.
My 13t started to skip at the bikepark today. Its been a year so happy with that.
I have a new 10 speed 11/48 ready to fit that cost £47.
Ideally though i would buy a 13t sprocket and just swap that out, but they appear to be very hard to source, or are silly expensive at around £15 on ebay.
EDIT i swapped cassettes today and was hoping to take a picture to compare the old v new 13t, but it was minimal, hard to capture.
Ive kept the old cassette in case i can find the 13t part no. Y0RG9802T at a reasonable price.
But if i need a new £47 cassette each year, im not going to sweat it.
I have a new 10 speed 11/48 ready to fit that cost £47.
Ideally though i would buy a 13t sprocket and just swap that out, but they appear to be very hard to source, or are silly expensive at around £15 on ebay.
EDIT i swapped cassettes today and was hoping to take a picture to compare the old v new 13t, but it was minimal, hard to capture.
Ive kept the old cassette in case i can find the 13t part no. Y0RG9802T at a reasonable price.
But if i need a new £47 cassette each year, im not going to sweat it.
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Took a big hit at the park today and exploded, luckily near the end of the session.
New one ordered from banana industries, who i have never used before and have doubts about
, but it was £25 with postage.
Sure glad i don't have one of them daft expensive electric sram mechs!
Usually break one each year so right on track.
New one ordered from banana industries, who i have never used before and have doubts about
, but it was £25 with postage.Sure glad i don't have one of them daft expensive electric sram mechs!
Usually break one each year so right on track.
Banana Industries is run by Dave, the original guy behind Planet X.Took a big hit at the park today and exploded, luckily near the end of the session.
New one ordered from banana industries, who i have never used before and have doubts about
Sure glad i don't have one of them daft expensive electric sram mechs!
Usually break one each year so right on track.
View attachment 151762
Good info thank you. Sounds well suspect plus being 1/2 the price of the usual online places, so thats reassuring to know cheers.
Amber Valley Guy
Well-known member
Other than smashing your 5130, how are you finding Linkglide? I ask because after being out on my Moterra today I asked myself the same question....and I decided I wouldn't go back and for the price it's a no brainer....and I don't miss not having the 2 extra sprockets.Took a big hit at the park today and exploded, luckily near the end of the session.
New one ordered from banana industries, who i have never used before and have doubts about
Sure glad i don't have one of them daft expensive electric sram mechs!
Usually break one each year so right on track.
View attachment 151762
Amber Valley Guy
Well-known member
Ran into the first problem with the Shimano M5130 short cage mech today. I removed the rear wheel (easy), put a new tyre on the wheel but getting it back in was a 100% PITA. I ended up removing the derailleur slipping the chain on the smallest cog, got the wheel in then re-fitted the derailleur.
Anyone have any tips on getting the wheel back in? I tried all the usual methods of pulling the jockey wheel forward, taking the chain off the chainring etc but to no avail.... I needed a third hand as I couldn't hold the wheel, pull the mech forward and fit the chain all at the same time. I was using a bike work stand..is it easier with the bike upside down with Shimano mechs (as they don't have a SRAM type wheel change lockout)?
Anyone have any tips on getting the wheel back in? I tried all the usual methods of pulling the jockey wheel forward, taking the chain off the chainring etc but to no avail.... I needed a third hand as I couldn't hold the wheel, pull the mech forward and fit the chain all at the same time. I was using a bike work stand..is it easier with the bike upside down with Shimano mechs (as they don't have a SRAM type wheel change lockout)?
- Thread starter
- #77
Maybe removing the chain would be the simplest way around this ? I assume you are moving the clutch lever forward to ease the tension on the cage ?
The mech can be a handful to pull back and refit the wheel at the same time but that's how I do it. I don't use a regular work stand though. I hate those things and don't know how most people put up with the bike flopping around while you're trying to work on it.
My basic , home made stand....
The mech can be a handful to pull back and refit the wheel at the same time but that's how I do it. I don't use a regular work stand though. I hate those things and don't know how most people put up with the bike flopping around while you're trying to work on it.
My basic , home made stand....
I was working on my kids new bikes and I tought I'll do a video for you how to remove and install wheel. Sorry for the quality, it was one shot and first time I removed this wheel, axle was tighter than expected
- YouTube
Amber Valley Guy
Well-known member
Yes that's the normal procedure but it doesn't work on my bike and I've found the problem.I was working on my kids new bikes and I tought I'll do a video for you how to remove and install wheel. Sorry for the quality, it was one shot and first time I removed this wheel, axle was tighter than expected
Amber Valley Guy
Well-known member
Found the problem.
Take a look at these pictures, the spoke magnet pickup sensor ( on the inside of the chain stay) gets in the way as it sits further in than the tyre width. So to get my wheel back in I have to get the tyre past the speed sensor which then pushes the wheel into the other chain stay, making it bloody difficult if not impossible to pop the chain back on and line the rotor up with the pads at the same time. The SRAM mech had more movement than the Shimano which is why I didn't have a problem before..I could pull the top jockey wheel up a bit.
Take a look at these pictures, the spoke magnet pickup sensor ( on the inside of the chain stay) gets in the way as it sits further in than the tyre width. So to get my wheel back in I have to get the tyre past the speed sensor which then pushes the wheel into the other chain stay, making it bloody difficult if not impossible to pop the chain back on and line the rotor up with the pads at the same time. The SRAM mech had more movement than the Shimano which is why I didn't have a problem before..I could pull the top jockey wheel up a bit.
Old Codger
Member
Seeing this reminded me that I once loosened the rear wheel while in the workstand and it dropped and sheared the speed sensor off. Been really careful since then. My latest bike has a rim magnet.
On a related topic - Be careful when installing a wheel with a magnet into a non-E bike - because there may be a clearance issue. The magnet gouged my carbon frame on my Enduro when I installed a wheel from my Rail.
(I forgot to remove the magnet)
(I forgot to remove the magnet)
LDG
New Member
How do you set up the 11 speed shifter with a 10-speed cassette?
Amber Valley Guy
Well-known member
You don't really, it's a case of setting up the upper and lower limit screws on the derailleur and then you just end up with (the 11th click) a blank space at the shifter that doesn't pull the cable.
So when shifting into the smallest rear cog on the cassette the first shift will move the chain onto that cog, the second (the blank 11th shift) will just click and do nothing. Moving the other way onto a larger rear sprocket there is no blank space it moves immediately. The blank shift is always at the smallest cog end of shifting.
LDG
New Member
Do you get it that way by putting the shifter in the second gear instead of first whan tightening the cable?
Amber Valley Guy
Well-known member
TheKaiser
Active member
Linkglide + Madrone seems like a great "min-max" setup!View attachment 178440
10 speed linkglide 11-48 with Madrone UDH Jab derailleur. working perfectly , slow wearing linkglide casettes
10 speed linkglide shifter + KMC E10 chain
I see you're using a KMC chain. You may have well founded reasons for that but, given that you're using Linkglide, I suspect durability is important to you, and the KMC chains (even the e-bike rated ones) perform pretty poorly in the Zero Friction Cycling wear tests. If you haven't checked them out before, their website is well worth a look! Chain Testing - Zero Friction CyclingIf you look at their wear performance tables, you'll see that chains intended for more gears actually tend to have longer lifespans than ones intended for fewer gears, and from what I've heard, many folks are having good luck running the super durable 12-speed models on 11 or 10 speed cassettes, some people even reporting that they are more forgiving of misadjustment as there is more clearance between the chain sideplates and the next cog up the stack, so the chain is less likely to rub and snag on it if the cable is too tight or the hanger is tweaked. That is all to say, you shouldn't feel locked out of the super durable chain options just because you're running a 10speed cassette.
good tip,
but i found the kmc e10 chains to last quite a long time on my previous setup - without madrone tho but that should matter
i never tried a 12 speed chain on the 10speed stuff
for me the linkglide 10s is perfect for emtbs
tried a lot of groupsets and i always ended up changing out wear parts
after i went linkglide and decent chain all the wear stopped and i havent changed anything for the last 1.5 years
only bad about linkglide 10s is the poor quality of derailleur, hence why i got a Madrone
there are quite a lot of fake KMC chains that will wear quickly tho
but i found the kmc e10 chains to last quite a long time on my previous setup - without madrone tho but that should matter
i never tried a 12 speed chain on the 10speed stuff
for me the linkglide 10s is perfect for emtbs
tried a lot of groupsets and i always ended up changing out wear parts
after i went linkglide and decent chain all the wear stopped and i havent changed anything for the last 1.5 years
only bad about linkglide 10s is the poor quality of derailleur, hence why i got a Madrone
there are quite a lot of fake KMC chains that will wear quickly tho
I had understood (perhaps mistakenly) that a 10 speed linkglide cassette wants (a bit bizarrely) an 11 speed chain.
IIRC the official shimano linkglide chain is for both 10 & 11 speed (with a different one for 12 speed).
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