Bafang m510

Hi, I just bought a M510 FC2.0 to Chili Shen, who's "Anna Shen" (Edited) on Alibaba :D
Should be shipped within 12 days...
Not yet decided which frame for the time being.
M510 FC2.0 SET.jpg
M510 FC2.0.jpg
 
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Hello everyone,
I haven't gotten a clear answer yet from anyone who has tried the M510 FC 2.0. In which aspect is the motor with the new controller better?
Answers like I feel it better than the previous one is not a logical answer from my point of view.
Can anyone who has tried the M510 FC2.0 tell us the differences with practical examples?
What is the difference in peak watts between the two FC1.0 and FC2.0?
Is it worth buying a new motor after less than a year? I see Bafang hasn't been fair to us with this change if the difference is really that big.
 
Hi guys. Am I the only one who has such a weak walkmode on FC1 with CRX10NC4814i101003.2.0-28-2230-boot3.0-20220721130110 FW? Could you please check on your side who has this FW. On basic 3.1 walkmode was pretty good. Thanks in advance
 
iscander13 said:
Hi guys. Am I the only one who has such a weak walkmode on FC1 with CRX10NC4814i101003.2.0-28-2230-boot3.0-20220721130110 FW? Could you please check on your side who has this FW. On basic 3.1 walkmode was pretty good. Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
I confirm, unusable, i use the throttle
 
iscander13 said:
Hi guys. Am I the only one who has such a weak walkmode on FC1 with CRX10NC4814i101003.2.0-28-2230-boot3.0-20220721130110 FW? Could you please check on your side who has this FW. On basic 3.1 walkmode was pretty good. Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Just to make sure: You need to change the cassette gear to a smaller cog to get support in walk mode. The motor turns really slow, and if You still are in the climbing gear (what happens most when You come to the need of walk mode) the rear wheel turns VERY slow. Feels like no support. Are You aware?
 
SchadowMaster said:
Do you think it is worth buying a new M510 with FC2.0?
I don't want to disassemble my motor to change the controller.
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Nobody can take this decision for You. The advantages are not huge, but they are noticeable. If You buy a set, the DPC 245 display and new tiny controll unit are really nice. And You have a spare engine, just in case. This spare engine could be upgraded later, or sold.
 
thaeber said:
Just to make sure: You need to change the cassette gear to a smaller cog to get support in walk mode. The motor turns really slow, and if You still are in the climbing gear (what happens most when You come to the need of walk mode) the rear wheel turns VERY slow. Feels like no support. Are You aware?
Click to expand...
Hello, I can compare with the 3.1. In the 3.2, when the chain is on the smaller cog, I can easily stop the bike with my hand. Very very low support. But anyway, my motor has a torque sensor problem. I'm waiting for a warranty motor, and that's the reason I'm asking on the forum. Is it just my problem or is it a FW problem?
 
Hi Guys. Does anyone know what could be happening when the bike just switches off during riding. No new error codes. It just switches off. After that, it turns on normally from the button and rides on. How do you find the reason for this? Thank you very much.
 
iscander13 said:
Hi Guys. Does anyone know what could be happening when the bike just switches off during riding. No new error codes. It just switches off. After that, it turns on normally from the button and rides on. How do you find the reason for this? Thank you very much.
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Bad battery contact?
 
krokan said:
Bad battery contact?
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I don't know. It was impossible to remove the battery without the key. All the pins look good. I also did a lot of jumping and hopping today, but couldn't find the sequence when the disconnect happens. I cleaned the pins and reinstalled the battery. We'll see.
 
iscander13 said:
I don't know. It was impossible to remove the battery without the key. All the pins look good. I also did a lot of jumping and hopping today, but couldn't find the sequence when the disconnect happens. I cleaned the pins and reinstalled the battery. We'll see.
Click to expand...
Check the Canbus cable / connector motor to the display. Those cables are not very reliable, my E10 has about 4.500 km now, and I‘m on the 3rd cable. If the cable is defect due to internal cable break or not fully inserted / leading to a loose contact at the display cable port, exactly this happens.
 
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The cranks look awesome, but no big weight saving at 495g. The spider is not just a spider, there are some rubber decoupling elements to soften the effects of the rear suspension in regards of pedal backlash.
 
thaeber said:
The cranks look awesome, but no big weight saving at 495g. The spider is not just a spider, there are some rubber decoupling elements to soften the effects of the rear suspension in regards of pedal backlash.
Click to expand...
I know and agree. I give it as an exemple.
So the question is open 😉
 
thaeber said:
The cranks look awesome, but no big weight saving at 495g. The spider is not just a spider, there are some rubber decoupling elements to soften the effects of the rear suspension in regards of pedal backlash.
Click to expand...
unnecessary. no ? ☹️
 
patdam said:
unnecessary. no ? ☹️
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Hmmm.. if You ask for the spider, I‘m not sure. There are many reviews telling it‘s great, specially descending in roughest terrain. Smoothen Your ride and make it way more silent. I would line to try, but it’s expensive unfortunately..
 
thaeber said:
Hmmm.. if You ask for the spider, I‘m not sure. There are many reviews telling it‘s great, specially descending in roughest terrain. Smoothen Your ride and make it way more silent. I would line to try, but it’s expensive unfortunately..
Click to expand...
who saied it's great ? with the freewheels on crank arms and rear wheel, i don't understand the gain ? o_O
 
If You are standing on Your pedals, running downhill in rocky terrain, Your rear suspension is causing backslash with every compression. Your chain is pulling the chainwheel backwards. The chainwheel is decoupled from the motor axle using rubber decoupling elements. They are eating up the impact of the backslash, smoothening Your ride and reducing chain whip noise. In theory 😂 …
 
thaeber said:
If You are standing on Your pedals, running downhill in rocky terrain, Your rear suspension is causing backslash with every compression. Your chain is pulling the chainwheel backwards. The chainwheel is decoupled from the motor axle using rubber decoupling elements. They are eating up the impact of the backslash, smoothening Your ride and reducing chain whip noise. In theory 😂 …
Click to expand...
When i move my suspension (in static). i don't see any movement of my pedals. I think that the engineers have performed lot of calculation to reduce "chain effects" with swing arms design, no ?
 
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