Kenevo Gen1 29er Front and Rear Kenevo

I currently have a Kenevo SL, but looking at Full power options and like the thought of 29er Kenevo. (Pole Voima & Whyte also in my thoughts)
Know that range is subject to a lot of factors, but wondering how the Kenevo 29er with a 700 battery does. Struggling to see much on this.
I’m 85 kg kitted up, average fitness. Are 40 mile rides 3500 ft easily achievable? Ride mostly ECO/Trail on the SL with boost when very steep. But would hope to be taking on harder climbs having the extra power.

Thanks
Should do that much elevation with ease. I got over 3500ft on 100% turbo self uplifting.
 
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Just building mine up. 180mm 29 Zebs, Fox X2 and Nukeproof Wheels. Gusset S2 bars, as I can’t get on with 35mm bars and gonna put my AXS seat post in from my other bike.
Anyone have any advice on fork crown race for lower headset? The Boxxer was a straight steerer and new Zebs are tapered. Can’t seem to find much info on what Headset Specialized have used on the Kenevo.
 
Just building mine up. 180mm 29 Zebs, Fox X2 and Nukeproof Wheels. Gusset S2 bars, as I can’t get on with 35mm bars and gonna put my AXS seat post in from my other bike.
Anyone have any advice on fork crown race for lower headset? The Boxxer was a straight steerer and new Zebs are tapered. Can’t seem to find much info on what Headset Specialized have used on the Kenevo.
You can order it over Specialized dealer. On the pic you have the part number. I'm also waiting for mine.
Cheers

Screenshot_20230209_154142_com.huawei.browser.jpg
 
Do some research to verify, but I would say its one of these for a single crown fork.
Quality item being steel with a seal built in rather than the awful alloy split ones that come as stock.
1675954823732.png


For reference the boxxer with the 1 1/8 straight steerer uses a 52/30.
52 headset OD
30 ID = 1 1/8 (straight)
40 ID = 1 1/2 (taper)
 
Just building mine up. 180mm 29 Zebs, Fox X2 and Nukeproof Wheels. Gusset S2 bars, as I can’t get on with 35mm bars and gonna put my AXS seat post in from my other bike.
Anyone have any advice on fork crown race for lower headset? The Boxxer was a straight steerer and new Zebs are tapered. Can’t seem to find much info on what Headset Specialized have used on the Kenevo.
Get a lower from crane creek or King and crown race. Specialized uses a different angle than most bearings. And the split ring is terrible.
The upper is a taller bearing than normal too. So if you are getting a set make sure you get the one for "Specialized" bikes.
 
The angles are different
Specialized uses 45 / 45 degree.
Cane Creek uses 36×45 degree bearing

"52/40 refers to the diameter, in millimeters, of the inner and outer surfaces of the bearing. It works with a tapered headset with a 1½" lower bearing and an inner race angle of 36 degrees (standard 45/36 bearing)"

I made the same mistake and it "fit" weird and never worked right.
 
The angles are different
Specialized uses 45 / 45 degree.
Cane Creek uses 36×45 degree bearing

"52/40 refers to the diameter, in millimeters, of the inner and outer surfaces of the bearing. It works with a tapered headset with a 1½" lower bearing and an inner race angle of 36 degrees (standard 45/36 bearing)"

I made the same mistake and it "fit" weird and never worked right.
Ah, OK. What did you use then? Did you replace the whole lower or just the crown race?
 
It looks like the lower bearing is the one that Specialized use on almost all their frames. It appears to have the same lower as the Levo’s which is the lower bearing in the attcached.66F46B1C-9631-4294-9D99-511CEFEEADD9.jpeg
 
Interesting! I am using a CANE CREEK crown race 40er series EC/ZS/IS52 | 1 1/2" steel with the standard specialized bearings on a Fox 38 for a year now and have not had any problems so far.

 
The angles are different
Specialized uses 45 / 45 degree.
Cane Creek uses 36×45 degree bearing

"52/40 refers to the diameter, in millimeters, of the inner and outer surfaces of the bearing. It works with a tapered headset with a 1½" lower bearing and an inner race angle of 36 degrees (standard 45/36 bearing)"

I made the same mistake and it "fit" weird and never worked right.
Alex,

Is this a good bearing option if using the boxxer with the cane creek solid steel crown race as shown above? 1B54514B-13DC-4817-B722-7604A123FA08.pngA165224B-08A7-47A8-8BBC-5EEA495B0704.png
 
Does anyone know for sure if doing this voids your warranty with spesh. I'm looking at converting a new expert but not if I void it.

How does this perform on tight single track / steep switchbacks compared to stock?
 
On the warranty point I’d say it depends on where you bought it, it’s the dealer you deal with. If he doesn’t care then everything will be fine. I can’t imagine there being an issue at all with a battery or the motor they have nothing to do with wheel size. Could potentially be an issue with the frame front end but I’ll I’d argue not if you’ve kept the head angles within acceptable limits and you do this by not going crazy on the front fork height. Of course, if you keep the stock wheels and fork, you can always make them stock when it goes back to the dealer.

If you're buying to convert then the Comp makes more sense, unless you specifically need or want the bigger battery or mastermind TCU.

Handling wise, on tight single track there isn't much difference on my setup, but the bike feels faster everywhere. I have gone conservative on the fork, which is the Rhythm at 170mm, so the bike's front end hasn't been raised much and the wheelbase and head angle are close to stock. Also, I chose the smaller of the two frame sizes that would fit me to keep it more agile/playful. So consider the frame size and what fork you are going to use if you're buying to convert to 29. If you buy a larger size and fit a Fox 38 and 29wheels this will inevitably impact its abilities in the twisty stuff. Check out Rob's video, he covers pretty much everything.
 
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On the warranty point I’d say it depends on where you bought it, it’s the dealer you deal with. If he doesn’t care then everything will be fine. I can’t imagine there being an issue at all with a battery or the motor they have nothing to do with wheel size. Could potentially be an issue with the frame front end but I’ll I’d argue not if you’ve kept the head angles within acceptable limits and you do this by not going crazy on the front fork height. Of course, if you keep the stock wheels and fork, you can always make them stock when it goes back to the dealer.

If you're buying to convert then the Comp makes more sense, unless you specifically need or want the bigger battery or mastermind TCU.

Handling wise, on tight single track there isn't much difference on my setup, but the bike feels faster everywhere. I have gone conservative on the fork, which is the Rhythm at 170mm, so the bike's front end hasn't been raised much and the wheelbase and head angle are close to stock. Also, I chose the smaller of the two frame sizes that would fit me to keep it more agile/playful. So consider the frame size and what fork you are going to use if you're buying to convert to 29. If you buy a larger size and fit a Fox 38 and 29wheels this will inevitably impact its abilities in the twisty stuff. Check out Rob's video, he covers pretty much everything.

Thanks for the reply. Im 6'2" and currently looking at an S4. I think an expert for the bigger battery and mastermind makes sense.

Im currently riding an XL YT decoy but find it struggles a bit in tight corners
 
Does anyone know for sure if doing this voids your warranty with spesh. I'm looking at converting a new expert but not if I void it.

How does this perform on tight single track / steep switchbacks compared to stock?
Just put the stock parts on if you break it. Honestly, all manufactures will "void" if you change anything even it it's unrelated to the failure. 29er wheels are well within the design parameters of the frame and will have zero negative effect on the battery or motor.

It's not like your putting a 180mm fork on an XC bike.
 
Just put the stock parts on if you break it. Honestly, all manufactures will "void" if you change anything even it it's unrelated to the failure. 29er wheels are well within the design parameters of the frame and will have zero negative effect on the battery or motor.

It's not like your putting a 180mm fork on an XC bike.
i would look to sell the parts i remove ideally to pay towards the upgrades
 
Just a thought……will speed be higher than 15mph when motor cuts out due to larger wheel? Software will still be running on 27.5 rear.
This just keeps getting better
 
Spoke to my LBS who spoke to specialized.

Frame warranty would be voided but everything else would be OK.
 
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I imagine they wouldn’t know if you put the original back on ☺️ but the slight difference in geo wouldn’t be a frame breaker !
 
6’2” and 78kg.

Kenevo S5. 2021 Fox x2 shock. 700wa battery in what was a comp version.

Have tested

27/27. with z1 180

29/27 With lyric 170

29/27 With Zeb 180

29/29 with Zeb 180 (Run flip chip high/low and fitted offset bushings to top of shock eyelet)

Running timed runs on local easier DH and hitting technical climbs the best feel was/is the following setup:

zeb 180 29 front
29 rear
Offset bushing
Flip chip low.


This gives me:
HA 63.5
BB 350
SA c. 78
No contact saddle/rear wheel
Running Eliminator 2.4 in rear with plenty clearance

The bike climbs like a goat. Runs anything DH…I bail first. Corner grip is superb.

It’s a 180/180 Levo Turbo now with option to chuck a 27 in back for even slacker/ lower however I find sweet spot for BB height with 180 travel to be 345-350 with sag around 25%.

Just love the covert flexibility of this bike. Plush, sensitive, poppy and 23.5kg with pedals and 700 battery.

I’ve run Spesh for decades now and can’t think of a better geometry, kinematic, feeling and all round bike than this one….and it has a motor.

Think I’ll setup a YouTube channel documenting my project ;-)…mind think Robs rather good at that…
Sorry to jump on this late but I’ve just done the 29/29 with the fox 38s 180mm and have the shock in high setting and it’s running at 60.3 degree still .. how did you make it 63?
 
Sorry to jump on this late but I’ve just done the 29/29 with the fox 38s 180mm and have the shock in high setting and it’s running at 60.3 degree still .. how did you make it 63?
How in earth have you done that? If you have raised the front & back by the same amount, it cant be 60 degrees. My mullet is 62.5 degrees or so with a fox 40 at 200mm.
 
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