Kenevo SL Official 2022 Kenevo SL (KSL) Megathread!

Anyone interested in a Ridewrap full frame wrap for an S4 KSL? It’s gloss but also comes with an extra matte down tube piece as I was going to combine the gloss/Matt for a different look.
Getting a Levo now so this is not required so send me a message if you’re keen.
 
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I messaged these guys this week, they are working on a larger guard that will work for the Kenevo SL, unfortunately mid season is coming fast…

 
My non-bicycle friends are making fun of that integrated mudguard everytime I tell them I am not on ride today because it's rainfall :- ).
Everything on the frame is so nicely designed, this seems like they could have done it little bit better.

When I'll get time, I'll take it off, photoscan it, add few bits, print a bit larger.
But yeah, ultimately best improvement is just stucking the fork mudguard in way R3Z3N did above.
 
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Is it possible to ride with out the battery and using range extenders. I’m thinking about traveling/flying issues, but also would be cool to ride it as a bio-bike sometimes.

Does the battery provide structural integrity or would this leave a gaping hole in the frame near the bottom bracket?
 
Is it possible to ride with out the battery and using range extenders. I’m thinking about traveling/flying issues, but also would be cool to ride it as a bio-bike sometimes.

Does the battery provide structural integrity or would this leave a gaping hole in the frame near the bottom bracket?

I have not tried it, but based on a few vids floating around, it is.
 
Is it possible to ride with out the battery and using range extenders. I’m thinking about traveling/flying issues, but also would be cool to ride it as a bio-bike sometimes.

Does the battery provide structural integrity or would this leave a gaping hole in the frame near the bottom bracket?
Yes absolutely fine to ride with the main battery removed and using only range extenders.
 
I was down in Edinburgh this weekend, stopped by Edinburgh Bicycle Co-op just to see what they had. They’ve got a S-Works KSL in S5 marked down to £9450 if anyone is looking for a good deal.

 
I wonder if anyone’s fitted a 36T chainring to a KSL? As far as I can see the chainguide would have to be removed.
Wondering if there’s a way to have 36T chainring and a chainguide?
Also if anyones run a 36 without the chainguide. Risky? Carbon frame and all.
There’s an opportunity for an aftermarket 36 chainguide. Anyone bite?

Specialized have a compatibility page
which states 34 max with chainguide. That’s a shame as I do feel the need for 36 when standing to pedal.
My non E bike had a 34 which seemed just right.

Hmm. I bought the “compatible” 34 ring but it’s in the bag because it looks like there’s no way the chainguide can accommodate it.

thanks lots
Great thread this. I just bought a KSL and I love it.
 
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My pal who is just building up his S5 asks the question what brakes? Standard are the Code R. Should he upgrade to Code RSC or something else like Hope, “Shaguras”, Magura etc.

Thanks.
Swopping up brakes is pretty costly.
The RS has a swinglink
The RSC has that plus static position adjust (sometimes called free stroke adjust)
The standard Code R brakes are surprisingly good if bled properly. I come from super powerful Formula “the One” then the marvellously modulated “Hope T3 X2”) I thought I’d be upgrading the Code R’s to Hopes (probably T4 E4) but I don’t feel the need.

I’m very impressed by the base level Kit on the KSL. The gears are great. I’m coming from 11s XT mech / XTR lever with XO1 cassette.

don’t dash to upgrade.

The shop mechanic told me that R lever “feel” can be adjusted by the bleed technique. Mine feel great. Quite close to the bar on full engagement, with nice modulation too)
It you want to adjust static lever position then this thread included details from Rob about the “Deslackinator” fir Sram Code R - here’s a link.
I’m ordering some.
 
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First impression was good, felt different for about half a minute, then just faded away and the bike rode really nicely. Was getting noticibly more pedal strikes, but was off my game and I’ve not ridden for a while.
Are you considering installing shorter cranks? With flip chip High and +1 headset cup, BB will still be about 17mm lower with 27.5 rear. Took my ksl out on maiden ride yesterday in stock mode and experienced more pedal strikes than I‘m used to on all my other bikes.
 
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Has anyone tried a 170mm AXS dropper in an S3? If so, can you I please share some dimensions when fully inserted?
 
Has anyone tried a 170mm AXS dropper in an S3? If so, can you I please share some dimensions when fully inserted?
KSL S3 Expert,
I cut down the air valve protector to gain another 5mm of clearance. I also lift the seat up another 5mm from full bottom out, just in case.
I am 5’10, bikes in neutral and high position running 180 back and front. I rarely tire buzz myself or nut myself on the seat on the DH.
905BC8A7-E0E6-40B0-B2E0-003B33EA1CE7.jpeg

AC347709-5EBE-49F8-ADA4-7F5DDF88E565.jpeg


07C3AA24-1F24-4B02-AF68-85643E2771C7.jpeg
 
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Are you considering installing shorter cranks? With flip chip High and +1 headset cup, BB will still be about 17mm lower with 27.5 rear. Took my ksl out on maiden ride yesterday in stock mode and experienced more pedal strikes than I‘m used to on all my other bikes.

Too early to say, I’ve only done about 15 miles with it mulleted so far. I may even go back to 29” rear, I didn’t hate it as a 29er, only went mullet because I destroyed the back rim
 
Anyone interested in a Ridewrap full frame wrap for an S4 KSL? It’s gloss but also comes with an extra matte down tube piece as I was going to combine the gloss/Matt for a different look.
Getting a Levo now so this is not required so send me a message if you’re keen.
I am, sent PM.
 
I took the aircan off of my x2 shock today (expert build) and there was no tokens in it. Is this how they normally ship? Had a quick search but couldn't find the info.
 
I took the aircan off of my x2 shock today (expert build) and there was no tokens in it. Is this how they normally ship? Had a quick search but couldn't find the info.
Did you remove the shock to take off the aircan? I wonder if the aircan can be pushed up for volume spacer installation without removing the shock from frame. Sometimes on certain bikes, shocks are difficult to reinstall.
 
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Did you remove the shock to take off the aircan? I wonder if the aircan can be pushed up for volume spacer installation without removing the shock from frame. Sometimes on certain bikes, shocks are difficult to reinstall.

I found removing by the rear wheel, aflipping the bike upside down and installing the upper bolt first, the lower bolt was pretty easy to install (eventhough it’s a tight fit).
 
Swopping up brakes is pretty costly.
The RS has a swinglink
The RSC has that plus static position adjust (sometimes called free stroke adjust)
The standard Code R brakes are surprisingly good if bled properly. I come from super powerful Formula “the One” then the marvellously modulated “Hope T3 X2”) I thought I’d be upgrading the Code R’s to Hopes (probably T4 E4) but I don’t feel the need.

I’m very impressed by the base level Kit on the KSL. The gears are great. I’m coming from 11s XT mech / XTR lever with XO1 cassette.

don’t dash to upgrade.

The shop mechanic told me that R lever “feel” can be adjusted by the bleed technique. Mine feel great. Quite close to the bar on full engagement, with nice modulation too)
It you want to adjust static lever position then this thread included details from Rob about the “Deslackinator” fir Sram Code R - here’s a link.
I’m ordering some.
Thanks. He’s getting Deslackinators 👍
 
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