Levo SL Gen 1 Official Levo SL Thread

Pdoz said:
PS I swear this new motor is more powerful. Yesterday I was matching a merida e120 uphill over a 60 km ride ( shimano e8000) , swapping across bikes this new sl motor was quieter than the shimano AND gave more instant power, there was nothing in it side by side uphill with either rider.
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Interesting. I was wondering whether the SL1.1 motor has had any mid-life improvements; Whether Spesh will do the same with Mahle as with Brose and have small improvements built in over time rather than a big-bang v2 upgrade.
 
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Pdoz said:
Since we seem to be on a near identical time frame - I suggest you keep an eye on the right crank.

I got my sl motor back a week ago, same issue. A week later and the R crank is coming loose every 30-60 km - tightening it up to the recommended torque does not completely get rid of play. My theory is that riding on the old motor with slop has partly worn the crank where it mates with the new motor. I should have a new crank and bolt by the weekend. I'm not bothering with trying for warranty because it's just as likely I've created a subtle bend in the crank from pedal strikes and thiat had been hidden by the slop in the old motor.
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I had a similar issue however was a combination of the motor spindle and crank arm, over time kept coming loose and eventually play evident even with bolt tightened to 50NM, I don't recall if was left or right side. In the end bike store replaced both motor and crank arm, they tried cranks first and then had to warranty the motor because the spindle was worn too. Beware that the motor spindle is alloy not steel and as such susceptible to same wear as crank arm, alloy on alloy both soft and both will deform when not tightened properly or when there is play.
 
squeegee said:
I had a similar issue however was a combination of the motor spindle and crank arm, over time kept coming loose and eventually play evident even with bolt tightened to 50NM, I don't recall if was left or right side. In the end bike store replaced both motor and crank arm, they tried cranks first and then had to warranty the motor because the spindle was worn too. Beware that the motor spindle is alloy not steel and as such susceptible to same wear as crank arm, alloy on alloy both soft and both will deform when not tightened properly or when there is play.
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Thanks for the info on the motor spindle. I might have a chat with my lbs to clarify if my new motor has any right to warranty in the future - given it's now been exposed to a worn crank that wasn't detected at last weeks repair job.
 
I paid for a S-Works LSL a couple of days ago (Colorado USA) and it is being built up. I should have it in a a few more days. Is there anything to look out for? I mean- things I should keep an eye on before it becomes a problem? I plan on riding it quite a bit so if any problems show up in the motor, it hopefully happens before the warranty period has expired. Happy Trails!
 
F4Flyer said:
I paid for a S-Works LSL a couple of days ago (Colorado USA) and it is being built up. I should have it in a a few more days. Is there anything to look out for? I mean- things I should keep an eye on before it becomes a problem? I plan on riding it quite a bit so if any problems show up in the motor, it hopefully happens before the warranty period has expired. Happy Trails!
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The SL machine (Mahle, not Brose) is very durable.
Just remember to keep the crank spinning high at 80-90 per min.
Do not force the Turbo and high gear
 
Mcharza said:
The SL machine (Mahle, not Brose) is very durable.
Just remember to keep the crank spinning high at 80-90 per min.
Do not force the Turbo and high gear
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Thanks! I do road, gravel, and regular MTB, so my usually cadence is around 80-85. I do slow down on the MTB sometimes, so good point. I'll not do the standing thing unless I can spin fast.
 
Guys I have the opportunity to buy an extender and his wiring very light used for 200€. Does it make sense? Or is a useless toy?
 
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I ride 2,50hr but still 40% of internal battery. anyway i'll feel more ambitious with my trails if i had an extender.. i don't know
 
F4Flyer said:
Thanks! I do road, gravel, and regular MTB, so my usually cadence is around 80-85. I do slow down on the MTB sometimes, so good point. I'll not do the standing thing unless I can spin fast.
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You are on the right track. But of course you can pedal while standing, no worries.
 
I have to get one extender or two. This bike is for some seriously fun/long/tough rides that would otherwise leave me wrecked for two days after. I'll do some range testing soon.
 
Hi Everyone. Picking up my new SL Comp (alloy) on Saturday and wondered if the sicomtb mudguards (front and rear) are still the go-to or if there is anything better / different for the SL now?

I’ve also ordered Matt invisiframe kit for it, any tips or anything specific I should know to the SL? Does the alloy version have downtube factory protection?

Cheers
 
PorkPieRider said:
Hi Everyone. Picking up my new SL Comp (alloy) on Saturday and wondered if the sicomtb mudguards (front and rear) are still the go-to or if there is anything better / different for the SL now?

I’ve also ordered Matt invisiframe kit for it, any tips or anything specific I should know to the SL? Does the alloy version have downtube factory protection?

Cheers
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Yes it has the factory downtube protection.
 
Ok extender arrived, charged, used for 60km and recharged again. Then I’ve notice that after a week it loses 1% of charge. Connected or disconnected.
The internal bike doesn’t. Unless the external e is connected.
 
Hey all, I swapped rims from my SWorks Epic and dropped over 2 pounds of rolling weight. Totally changed the way my bike handles. I only weigh 165 and ride cross country. Also put on an XT cassette. Have the NX group and its just heavy.
 
I'm researching wheels/rim too but looking for more compliant carbon rims. Anyway, I rode 23.5 miles and climbed 2,550 ft in Eco yesterday and still had 66% of battery left. Trail would have left me with 35%-40% maybe? As long as the grade is not over 6%-8%, I can climb without the motor as well, if needed. Over that and it will be a leg-burning drag for any real length of time.
 
Well I did something interesting. I made a deal with myself that every time I drop 10 pounds I can buy something for my bikes. I hit 15, so I figured I could get a wheelset ;) I too was looking for a decent but budget carbon set for my levo sl comp (alum). I'm one of the strange people who prefer carbon wheels and alum body. Anyways, went with Roval Carbon Control. Strangely they had higher system weight limit then traverse (275lbs versus 245). The shop was pretty confused given how similar they are, just with a bit more width and carbon on the traverse.

It seems that others have gone with control here and only seen one person break them so far. I'm on the heavy side at 210, but dropping fairly fast after a spout with extended illness. I also tend to stay on the ground at my age and don't really love the double-blacks anymore. If I break them soon then I'll add cushcore or something then next round, but want to run as is for now. The bike is great, I can't see myself getting a full-size motor anytime soon until they drop to a more sprightly weight. I think that 40lbs and some change is great and allows for some nimbleness in the bike.
 
ItchyPaws said:
Well I did something interesting. I made a deal with myself that every time I drop 10 pounds I can buy something for my bikes. I hit 15, so I figured I could get a wheelset ;) I too was looking for a decent but budget carbon set for my levo sl comp (alum). I'm one of the strange people who prefer carbon wheels and alum body. Anyways, went with Roval Carbon Control. Strangely they had higher system weight limit then traverse (275lbs versus 245). The shop was pretty confused given how similar they are, just with a bit more width and carbon on the traverse.

It seems that others have gone with control here and only seen one person break them so far. I'm on the heavy side at 210, but dropping fairly fast after a spout with extended illness. I also tend to stay on the ground at my age and don't really love the double-blacks anymore. If I break them soon then I'll add cushcore or something then next round, but want to run as is for now. The bike is great, I can't see myself getting a full-size motor anytime soon until they drop to a more sprightly weight. I think that 40lbs and some change is great and allows for some nimbleness in the bike.
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I ordered the i9 Grade 315 Carbon wheel set on December 2021 and still waiting. Hopefully I’ll get them this month…
 
Hello,

I have a small problem with my levo sl. Since I have it (a good month), I notice a drop in battery charge of 6 to 8%
after the end of the outing.
In the hour that follows, the load does not drop, it comes after. Once the decrease has been observed, it no longer varies. Example 40% at the end of the outing, 32% 2h30 later, the next day still 32%.

Has anyone else encountered this phenomenon?

The Specialized after-sales service, to be congratulated for its responsiveness, contacted by email, made me do the updates available in the shop, without success. I now have to leave the bike in the store for a "battery test". Specialized does not seem to know this concern.

Otherwise, this bike is really great

sylvain from France
 
Sly07 said:
Hello,

I have a small problem with my levo sl. Since I have it (a good month), I notice a drop in battery charge of 6 to 8%
after the end of the outing.
In the hour that follows, the load does not drop, it comes after. Once the decrease has been observed, it no longer varies. Example 40% at the end of the outing, 32% 2h30 later, the next day still 32%.

Has anyone else encountered this phenomenon?

The Specialized after-sales service, to be congratulated for its responsiveness, contacted by email, made me do the updates available in the shop, without success. I now have to leave the bike in the store for a "battery test". Specialized does not seem to know this concern.

Otherwise, this bike is really great

sylvain from France
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I've never heard of this issue exactly. But I have heard that often battery manufacters will underreport the max battery in software so that you can't charge to actual 100% as that can hurt lithium battery's life span. I wonder if there is some software element that noticed you had a higher capacity or something. More likely though batteries can just do weird things. I once completely drained to 0% on a ride (not recommended) and then turned the bike off. When I turned it on it was back to 5%. Maybe temperature changes?
 
I always recharge the bike after any ride.remeber that lithium batteries don't like decharging under 30-40%
 
Sly07 said:
Hello,

I have a small problem with my levo sl. Since I have it (a good month), I notice a drop in battery charge of 6 to 8%
after the end of the outing.
In the hour that follows, the load does not drop, it comes after. Once the decrease has been observed, it no longer varies. Example 40% at the end of the outing, 32% 2h30 later, the next day still 32%.

Has anyone else encountered this phenomenon?

The Specialized after-sales service, to be congratulated for its responsiveness, contacted by email, made me do the updates available in the shop, without success. I now have to leave the bike in the store for a "battery test". Specialized does not seem to know this concern.

Otherwise, this bike is really great

sylvain from France
Click to expand...

There is something odd about how the app reports battery %. Are you measuring this on the app or the TPU?

For example, I have seen, many times, the app reporting 100% while charging and yet the bike is still flashing the last light like its still charging. Unplug, power everything back on and the app starts reporting 95% (or similar).

That said I have never observed the same draining the battery, like you have. But all sorts of things could be happening in your case. I wonder if temperature makes a difference? Has the bike changed temp between being used and stored for a few hours? I could imagine that affects what the battery is reporting...
 
Just picked up an EXT Estoria V3 coil shock for my LSL. Looking at the rear mount for the EXTcoil, there is a thin stainless steel insert that is pressed in and is the same diameter of the mounting hardware to make the LSL low or tall. I've contacted EXT, waiting to hear back. Has anybody else had this issue on their Estoria? Might have to send it back to have them press it out. Thx
 
Pedal-Man said:
Just picked up an EXT Estoria V3 coil shock for my LSL. Looking at the rear mount for the EXTcoil, there is a thin stainless steel insert that is pressed in and is the same diameter of the mounting hardware to make the LSL low or tall. I've contacted EXT, waiting to hear back. Has anybody else had this issue on their Estoria? Might have to send it back to have them press it out. Thx
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That bushing is present on gen 3 levos shocks, the just made a mistake. Instead of shipping back you could get a bushing tool and remove it yourself if it is a standard bushing size.

RockShox 1/2 x 1/2 inch Rear Shock Bushing Tool (Eyelet/Sealhead) https://a.co/d/jkG0RGt
 
gbarfoot said:
That bushing is present on gen 3 levos shocks, the just made a mistake. Instead of shipping back you could get a bushing tool and remove it yourself if it is a standard bushing size.

RockShox 1/2 x 1/2 inch Rear Shock Bushing Tool (Eyelet/Sealhead) https://a.co/d/jkG0RGt
Click to expand...

My buddy had a bushing tool...good to go now. thx
 
I think a few others have noticed the stay pivot rubber cover squeaking. Grease just makes it attract more dirt so I was wondering how others have addressed this. Mine was silent for the first 750 miles and now cleaning makes it quiet but temporarily. Does it just pop off for cleaning or is attachment hardware underneath. Thanks
 
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