Kenevo SL Official 2022 Kenevo SL (KSL) Megathread!

Sounds right. After that, Manic 150 has Stack height of 203mm and OneUp V2 180 has stack height of 213mm at 180 (and 203 at 170 and 193 at 160mm respectively).

If we pretended those 2.5mm insertion difference didn't exist, OneUp180 set to 170 could be replacement for Manic 150 at identical saddle height. At worst, 160 could, gaining 1cm.

I wonder if 30.9mm version of OneUp could be inserted just tiny bit more into the frame than 34.9mm.

You know what, I am gonna go buy one right now and just see.

Edit: Actually I don't know what he is measure above at all.. my Manic is exposed 53mm at SL3. That would be 73 at SL2 I presume. Should be specified better what is stock (Manic or AXF) and what is measure visually.
 
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George_yt said:
I wonder if 30.9mm version of OneUp could be inserted just tiny bit more into the frame than 34.9mm.
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That's also been covered in the FB group, but I can't remember who by.
 
0AAB5A52-82B7-4523-867D-1B3D23671378.png
 
Yeah it's bit questionable since the (non-e) Specialized Enduro frames indeed broke this way :- ).

The cutting of cable ending is interesting idea. Though I have to say, I have multiple OneUp v2 posts already.. their short mechanism already sucks when not bend.. it's lot more fiddly than any other.

Thanks for all these post Doomanic, super helpful!
 
HarzEnduro said:
Just pull through with the old one connected with a RS barb connector.
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Yes, unless like me you’re building up a frameset in which case Spesh left us high and dry. There is not a continuous chase for the internal cable routing like there is on the Enduro.

At least with the stumpy frame set Specialized left a little plastic tube to use as a pull through.
 
Been without my KSL for 6 weeks now due to the fork going back to Fox for abnormal bushing wear. I was hopeful the 38 was going to be reliable so sold off my spare forks just prior to the issue coming up...what was I thinking!
 
Blownoutrides said:
Did you (or anyone) figure out a way to route the rear brake line without pulling the motor? Holy sh_t was that a headache.
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I managed to do it and no kidding it was not fun: Kept me up until 3:30AM on a Sunday getting it to slip through. The Park internal cable routing tool was no help so IMHO skip that and save some time.

Pull the rockguard (or whatever they call it) and look through the gaps in the chainstay yoke to see better. Try to follow the speed sensor wire until the hose end pokes out the bottom. I used a lot of light and a spare spoke to help direct the hose from the yoke side. Getting it to pass over the battery isn't trivial either, but compared to getting past the motor it's not bad at all.
 
The motor on the KSL is super easy to remove. Just remove the front 4 bolts and swing out the motor. It’s like a 5 min job.
 
Christian said:
The motor on the KSL is super easy to remove. Just remove the front 4 bolts and swing out the motor. It’s like a 5 min job.
Click to expand...
Trying to visualize (my KSL is stuck at the dealer) - you're leaving it partially bolted to the frame? Any issues with putting strain on the cables when you drop the motor?
 
Just the back bolts stay on but loosened. Cables have some play to drop it out but they also come off easy if need be. It’s super easy to do.
This was my old Levo SL but same same
AB3A13D5-0453-44DD-A0EA-572FF22B2368.png
 
What helped me to fiddle in my rear brake hose in my KSL frameset (without removing the motor) was the Rockshox Barb Connector.

1644992081323.png


With the Barb Connector at front of the hose it was easy to direct the hose through all opening. It stabilized the front of the hose and the thread of the connector managed to slip underneath the battery while going up the frame.

Took me 10 minutes to install the rear brake hose.

Will probably work on any hose or outer cable. But work your way from the rear through the motor and then the way up.
 
ghost48 said:
What helped me to fiddle in my rear brake hose in my KSL frameset (without removing the motor) was the Rockshox Barb Connector.

View attachment 82202

With the Barb Connector at front of the hose it was easy to direct the hose through all opening. It stabilized the front of the hose and the thread of the connector managed to slip underneath the battery while going up the frame.

Took me 10 minutes to install the rear brake hose.

Will probably work on any hose or outer cable. But work your way from the rear through the motor and then the way up.
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Nice! Will get one for next time.
 
Gyre said:
I managed to do it and no kidding it was not fun: Kept me up until 3:30AM on a Sunday getting it to slip through. The Park internal cable routing tool was no help so IMHO skip that and save some time.

Pull the rockguard (or whatever they call it) and look through the gaps in the chainstay yoke to see better. Try to follow the speed sensor wire until the hose end pokes out the bottom. I used a lot of light and a spare spoke to help direct the hose from the yoke side. Getting it to pass over the battery isn't trivial either, but compared to getting past the motor it's not bad at all.
Click to expand...

Whoa… if we need a bomb diffused we’re definitely calling you(y)
 
Christian said:
The motor on the KSL is super easy to remove. Just remove the front 4 bolts and swing out the motor. It’s like a 5 min job.
Click to expand...

Indeed, that’s what I ended up doing. But pouring over tech docs and YouTube vids to first make sure I wasn’t going to foul something up took a big chunk of time I wasn’t planning on.

I was SUPER pumped to get the hose past the battery. I think I fed a hose down from the top and then used the park tool kit to pull the actual hose from the caliper back up again.

Spesh definitely did not provide any kind of reach around on this one.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: CjP
Is flying (aeroplanes) with the KSL an option e.g removing batteries. I saw it mentioned a bit for Levo SL.
 
Yes. Remove main battery and take two range extenders in hand luggage.
 
My local bike shop told me that to do the rear brake they were just removing the air from the shock, and with the suspension compressed it was “super easy” to route the rear brake above the motor. I have a set of Hayes Dominions I’ve been wanting to put on, but have been procrastinating. Will update how it goes for me. Lol
 
rb. said:
My local bike shop told me that to do the rear brake they were just removing the air from the shock, and with the suspension compressed it was “super easy” to route the rear brake above the motor. I have a set of Hayes Dominions I’ve been wanting to put on, but have been procrastinating. Will update how it goes for me. Lol
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The Dominions use a 5mm brake line which makes it quite tight getting it thru the rear chainstay.
 
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