Dale_Calgary
New Member
I don't know shit yet! Just gathering info
. At this time of the year for my riding I'm just buzzing around on dry pavement and not worrying about it until spring.Reign E+ 2022
- Thread starter zorro77
- Start date
. At this time of the year for my riding I'm just buzzing around on dry pavement and not worrying about it until spring.I will probably be perfect for you. Many things like this is down to personal preference.Hey I am 178cm so just on the edge of M/L with an 83cm Inseam...It's terrible I don't know how manufacturers haven't figured it out yet that there should be an M/L size option with MTBs...some have...
My trail bike is the 2018 YT Jeffsy size L 445 reach but way slacker seat tube 74.5 vs the Reign 77.5.
I had the chance to try both the L E+2 and M E+1 and had a really hard time to decide...Only could do the testing on a parking lot...so could not get a clear picture on how the bike feels in the trail.
The first feel siting on the bike the M size felt more comfy and the L felt more sporty...
I took the M and did the same as you pushed the saddle backwards as it goes and probably will add a longer stem it it doesn't make the bike to lazy...
The one reason I didn't go with the L was because off the combo of: reeeally steep seat tube angle + a forward pushed saddle to accommodate for reach would probably get my knees over the pedals and as I love to pedal a lot it could result in pain and injuries. The other reason was as It's my first ebike, and as much as I read, generally the recommendation is smaller due to the weight of the machine.
If I would be more a pilot then a traveler on my bike then I would probably go for the L size as it felt better in a standing position.
Haven't ridden it yet as the temps here are below zero most of the time...
So much for my contribution ✌
Btw if you want a longer dropper Oneup has it's 180 in stock here in EU. I got one for my E+1 medium. I got inseam 81.
OneUp Components V2 Dropper Post with 90-240mm of Travel - 30.9/31.6/34.9
A longer dropper post is one of the best upgrades you can make to your bike. Simply put, the award-winning OneUp Dropper Post is the longest travel dropper you can fit in your bike. *The V2 Dropper Post has been discontinued and has been replaced by the V3 Dropper Post. Remaining stock is...
eu.oneupcomponents.com
Just pick the right diameter 30.9.
You can shorten it internally down to 160mm internally (10mm steps). Almost like you can take the 210mm version (can be shorten to 190).
I can drop a picture how mine will look. It's on it's way now and I will most likely get it this week.
I was also considering the oneup dropper...yeah a picture would be great, I maybe could get away with the 210...but am not sure if there is enough insertion length in the seattube...I think the 180 would be good enough though ✌I will probably be perfect for you. Many things like this is down to personal preference.
Btw if you want a longer dropper Oneup has it's 180 in stock here in EU. I got one for my E+1 medium. I got inseam 81.
OneUp Components V2 Dropper Post with 90-240mm of Travel - 30.9/31.6/34.9
A longer dropper post is one of the best upgrades you can make to your bike. Simply put, the award-winning OneUp Dropper Post is the longest travel dropper you can fit in your bike. *The V2 Dropper Post has been discontinued and has been replaced by the V3 Dropper Post. Remaining stock is...
Just pick the right diameter 30.9.
You can shorten it internally down to 160mm internally (10mm steps). Almost like you can take the 210mm version (can be shorten to 190).
I can drop a picture how mine will look. It's on it's way now and I will most likely get it this week.
Measured head angle in HIGh position.
Slacker than BoJo’s leadership ethics….
Rotated 180 degrees to account for any variations in floor
Slacker than BoJo’s leadership ethics….
Rotated 180 degrees to account for any variations in floor
Phew... Anything over 63 and I dread to think of the consequences descending the incredibly steep high speed Surrey Alps.
Phew... Anything over 63 and I dread to think of the consequences descending the incredibly steep high speed Surrey Alps.
Nice heels
. What does it say about me if I feel great on my "analog" (I don't know if I like that word) enduro bike which has 66° head angle? And I mean actual Alps.
Think I may also need a 200mm Boxxer to go with my Troy Lee DH really for the gnar we have here.Phew... Anything over 63 and I dread to think of the consequences descending the incredibly steep high speed Surrey Alps.
Measured travel in rear: 154mm
Carlyzf250
Member
Hi . When is your review coming out I keep checking daily
.. just ordered the bike myself after demoing it and I was really impressed. Found the 38s stiff and alittle hard but it tracked so well very confidence inspiring bike
How did you measure it? If you're not in some way or another plotting the actual axle curve it won't be accurate.
Yeah agree, it won’t be totally accurate due to axle path but the closest I can get.
method:
- bike upside down
- front and rear axles level
- inflate shock, so stroke is maxxed out
- measure rear axle height (measurement 1)
- deflate shock, use a ratchet strap between rear wheel / seat post to bring rear wheel through travel and max out stroke
- Make sure shock fully compressed as far as stroke will go
- Measure rear axle height (measurement 2)
- Subtract measurement 2 from measurement 1
actual ‘travel’ will be across an arc where the rear wheel flows, which as far as I can tell is not all vertical travel.
It’s not 100% accurate, but can be useful comparing actual vertical travel across bikes. Its as good as I can get at the moment
Maybe this Adds merit to your idea that it might been a 29/29 bike to start with?Yeah agree, it won’t be totally accurate due to axle path but the closest I can get.
method:
- bike upside down
- front and rear axles level
- inflate shock, so stroke is maxxed out
- measure rear axle height (measurement 1)
- deflate shock, use a ratchet strap between rear wheel / seat post to bring rear wheel through travel and max out stroke
- Make sure shock fully compressed as far as stroke will go
- Measure rear axle height (measurement 2)
- Subtract measurement 2 from measurement 1
actual ‘travel’ will be across an arc where the rear wheel flows, which as far as I can tell is not all vertical travel.
It’s not 100% accurate, but can be useful comparing actual vertical travel across bikes. Its as good as I can get at the moment
if you add a 29” back wheel it might be 64.5 deg.
EDIT: Used a bike calculator. Adding a 29" back wheel steepens it to ~64 deg.
Last edited:
Buckaroony
Member
if you watch the EMBN development video you can see the stages of prototype. It appears to have been designed for the EWS as a race bike.
I don't know how your rear triangle looks like, but if it's the same as mine there's no way to squeeze 29 wheel there.
I love this monster's geo as is
. 29 in the rear would push the seat angle to almost 90° 
. Also would make the reach longer. Stand over height larger. So making the geo worse in every aspect (for my needs) Not to mention a sluggish 29" rear. As much as 63ish ° head angle and low bb goes I absolutely love it! This is NOT a trail bike guys. This is a bike that wants it fast and hard. Down the hill.
I tried to fit a 29”. No go.
Maybe the new Trance X E rear end would fit?
What do you think?
Tim gosnold
New Member
Does any have a picture of their non drive side which might show this bolt head as I can’t remember if there is a cover over it as I don’t remember seeing it set this far back. 
Thanks guys. And yes it needs a clean 
Thanks guys. And yes it needs a clean
Where the o-ring is? mines not too much further than that when compressed down tight with ratchet straps...
jbv
Member
i believe it is normal. same as mine when aired down. it's possible this shock has a spacer that limits the stroke (this was the case on a Commencal i had) .
jbv
Member
not surprised at all with that head angle. feels like 63 in the high setting to me. i won't ever be using the low setting.
measured the BB height and got about 332 to center. Giant said they went as low as the possibly could and it was an important design parameter but i wouldn't mind if it were 1cm higher as these bikes sit far into sag anyways when riding, but i think Giant and their riders, know exactly what they are doing so....
measured the BB height and got about 332 to center. Giant said they went as low as the possibly could and it was an important design parameter but i wouldn't mind if it were 1cm higher as these bikes sit far into sag anyways when riding, but i think Giant and their riders, know exactly what they are doing so....
Banksay
Member
Does any have a picture of their non drive side which might show this bolt head as I can’t remember if there is a cover over it as I don’t remember seeing it set this far back.
That looks right, no cover and sits back a bit...5mm or so.
Fox uses an internal bottom out bumper, as far i know, that should be O.K.
It can go deeper if you compress it realy hard.
Last edited:
Dale_Calgary
New Member
Thats what she said
Yeah. nevermind accuracy. That simply isn't rear travel measurement at all.Yeah agree, it won’t be totally accurate due to axle path but the closest I can get.
method:
- bike upside down
- front and rear axles level
- inflate shock, so stroke is maxxed out
- measure rear axle height (measurement 1)
- deflate shock, use a ratchet strap between rear wheel / seat post to bring rear wheel through travel and max out stroke
- Make sure shock fully compressed as far as stroke will go
- Measure rear axle height (measurement 2)
- Subtract measurement 2 from measurement 1
actual ‘travel’ will be across an arc where the rear wheel flows, which as far as I can tell is not all vertical travel.
It’s not 100% accurate, but can be useful comparing actual vertical travel across bikes. Its as good as I can get at the moment
you're not the first mtb journalist to make this mistake
to physically plot the "actual" axle path:
Remove shock.
Remove rear wheel.
lay the frame on it's side as flat as you can on a large sheet of cardboard. (a helper would be ideal for this)
use a vernire and place shock mounts apart by exactly the shocks eye to eye length. - This is your starting point.
Now rotate the swing arm through it's travel drawing the arc with a marker through the dropout until the shock mounts are closer together by exactly shock stroke.
being an arc your measurement from dropout start to finish point will be a tiny bit less than full actual travel. if You really want it to be exact. it's a simple geometric maths equasion based on the angle and length of lever (eg. swing arm length or virtual pivot point arc and length if its a horst or VPP). but the start point to end point measurement is generally only a mm or so shorter.
frame in a proper workshop bike stand that won't move and cardboard (bike box etc.) held vertically to the side of the frame would also work quite well.
Or measure every pivot point very accurately and use linkage software.
Last edited:
In that case they probably chose the wrong motor
Tim gosnold
New Member
Cheers thank you buddy.
A bit of topic but I just saw this. Maybe something for @Rob Rides EMTB and you guys with long legs.
jbv
Member
i've got the oneup 210 and it's fantastic. i have a 37" inseam and wouldn't need longer, but it's amazing that this now exists.
Yeah. nevermind accuracy. That simply isn't rear travel measurement at all.
you're not the first mtb journalist to make this mistake
to physically plot the "actual" axle path:
Remove shock.
Remove rear wheel.
lay the frame on it's side as flat as you can on a large sheet of cardboard. (a helper would be ideal for this)
use a vernire and place shock mounts apart by exactly the shocks eye to eye length. - This is your starting point.
Now rotate the swing arm through it's travel drawing the arc with a marker through the dropout until the shock mounts are closer together by exactly shock stroke.
being an arc your measurement from dropout start to finish point will be a tiny bit less than full actual travel. if You really want it to be exact. it's a simple geometric maths equasion based on the angle and length of lever (eg. swing arm length or virtual pivot point arc and length if its a horst or VPP). but the start point to end point measurement is generally only a mm or so shorter.
frame in a proper workshop bike stand that won't move and cardboard (bike box etc.) held vertically to the side of the frame would also work quite well.
Or measure every pivot point very accurately and use linkage software.
Well, It’s vertical wheel travel I measured. So technically is a measurement of rear wheel travel
I agree, it’s not the exact measurement that manufacturers use (although their quoted travel number is likely not the exact figure either, it’s too rounded and nicely marketable a number to be always ending in a zero!)
I totally get that it’s not following the exact arc that the rear wheel travels. I wonder how much of a difference in reality this number will be, versus the variation of measuring the exact axle path. Obviously will differ from bike to bike depending on a few things.
My measurement works out Axle Displacement, not Axle Path Length
for sure there will be a difference, but I’m not convinced that it’ll be more than small single digit % variations?Similar Threads
-
-
-
-
Crestline RS 181.2 thread – builds, reviews, technical info- Started by BikeBert
- Replies: 947
-
For Sale (BIKE) 2022 giant Reign E+ 0 MX Pro large: 3200- Started by jaggysnake
- Replies: 0