Dengfu E10 Suspension/Wheel Options

duncan6 said:
Hi, which model of Angleset should be used on Dengfu E10 ?
I can't find the suitable one for 1.5 degree.
Please advise, thanks!
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Cane Creek Angleset. Please note, that the lower part of the headset is external cup style, adding another 10mm length to Your installed fork length, slacking the HA additional appr. 0,4 degree. You need to rework the seat for the headset a little to fit. There is an older post from Karokoenig on that.
 
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markvanhaze77 said:
Anybody have a recommendation for a chainstay protector for the E10?
Click to expand...

This is what I did.
3M mastic tape along the top of the chain stay and then I slipped a length of inner tube over the top.
The mastic tape is very 'pliable' (especially if you heat the area) and sticky.

20210817_110400.jpg
 
i have use this one (in colour of my frame)
www.bike-discount.de

Protection des bases HPX

Il protège le vélo et rend la chaîne plus silencieuse. Le matériau Shock-X amortissant les vibrations réduit les chocs de la chaîne et se monte facilement sur la plupart des cadres CUBE....
www.bike-discount.de www.bike-discount.de
and apply strong tape on part after axis (necessary, lot of impact of chain here)

Louis FILM PROTECTION TRANSP. DIM. : ENV. 20 X 33 CM

Acheter Louis FILM PROTECTION TRANSP. DIM. : ENV. 20 X 33 CM à petit prix chez Louis. Grandes marques ✓ Large choix ✓ Aucun risque ✓ Paiement sécurisé ✓ Droit de restitution de 2 ans ✓ Renvoi gratuit ✓
www.louis-moto.fr www.louis-moto.fr
 
thaeber said:
10 spd. 11-46 and 32 chainring. Perfect with M500.
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Hi, this is very helpful! Is this perfect gear ratio with 27,5" or 29" rear? I am looking for strong climbing capability to my E10 build in order to mach with Kenevo.
 
Hi everyone Has anyone tried 210x61 shock absorber? At the worst I could put a shim under the rubber pad but I would like to take advantage of the greater stroke
 
pdmx.it said:
Hi everyone Has anyone tried 210x61 shock absorber? At the worst I could put a shim under the rubber pad but I would like to take advantage of the greater stroke
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Use at least one offset bushing to increase the installed shock length to 212mm. Compressed length would be 151mm then. Without that, the bridge between the seatstays may touch Your seattube when fully compressed.
 
thaeber said:
Use at least one offset bushing to increase the installed shock length to 212mm. Compressed length would be 151mm then. Without that, the bridge between the seatstays may touch Your seattube when fully compressed.
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Thank you. So the offset bushings can also be used to lengthen, rather than reduce, the length of the shock absorber? Isn't there a risk of the bushing turning (loosening the bolt) and causing damage?
 
Yes and yes. You have to keep an eye on it and ensure proper tightening of the shock mounting screws. If You have the option, use a 216/63 shock for even more travel, one Offset bushing and a little rework of the rear yoke towards the seattube. This works fine at my bike for month now.
 
thaeber said:
Yes and yes. You have to keep an eye on it and ensure proper tightening of the shock mounting screws. If You have the option, use a 216/63 shock for even more travel, one Offset bushing and a little rework of the rear yoke towards the seattube. This works fine at my bike for month now.
Click to expand...
Yes, I have seen your posts / works. I thought at the DNM (Coil Spring) 210x61 as it is economical but still a good shock absorber and then I would not have to file the upper part of the linkage.
 
pdmx.it said:
Yes, I have seen your posts / works. I thought at the DNM (Coil Spring) 210x61 as it is economical but still a good shock absorber and then I would not have to file the upper part of the linkage.
Click to expand...

Two things - I'd recommend against using a DNM as they use 12mm diameter shock bushings (unlike all other manufacturers now who use the standard 12.7mm diameter size). I'm unaware of anywhere that produces the E10 sizes in this diameter, so you will likely be unable to fit the shock. Best go for a Fox / RS in reality.

We don't recommend using offsets in reverse as they'll want to rotate under compression to the stock position. As you say, if you check often and it's tightened up you *might* be okay, but we cannot sell them based on this premise. It's up to you if you wish to use them like this. You will have a much better chance of using it like this on the rear yoke mount as there is no real rotation so encourage it to spin.

Jeron @ Offsetbushings.com
 
Offset said:
Two things - I'd recommend against using a DNM as they use 12mm diameter shock bushings (unlike all other manufacturers now who use the standard 12.7mm diameter size). I'm unaware of anywhere that produces the E10 sizes in this diameter, so you will likely be unable to fit the shock. Best go for a Fox / RS in reality.

We don't recommend using offsets in reverse as they'll want to rotate under compression to the stock position. As you say, if you check often and it's tightened up you *might* be okay, but we cannot sell them based on this premise. It's up to you if you wish to use them like this. You will have a much better chance of using it like this on the rear yoke mount as there is no real rotation so encourage it to spin.

Jeron @ Offsetbushings.com
Click to expand...
Thanks for the valuable information, in fact it seemed unlikely to be able to recover 2mm on a 12mm bushing and 8mm pin
 
It always remains the possibility to mount the shock absorber with normal bushings and to reduce the stroke a little with a shim under the end-of-stroke buffer.
 
Not sure if anyone will find this useful for the 1st generation E10 frames but
20220409_153611.jpg

Superstar Components Slackerizer fits into the headtube of the XL. No fiddling around with either the headtube or headset was required.

20220409_153624.jpg

Allowing me to retain a seat tube angle whereby keeping my default riding position somewhat over the bottom bracket (motor).

20220409_153544.jpg

Difficult at this stage to guage whether steering has improved or remains the same.

20220409_153523.jpg

But it's an option to consider if over-forking or a mullet setup isn't having the same effect compared to other emtb frame platforms 👍🏿
 
Hi Guys,

I'm new to the forums, so firstly, 'Hi!'.

Secondly, having just bought an E10 v2 and sourcing parts while it's painted, I have a gamut of questions.

Lots of these questions have been answered for riders of far bigger frames and/or before the E10 platform was established, so I was just wondering if, now that a better understanding of the platform exists, I could get your most up to date thoughts on a couple of things that relate to my size and not the 7ft freaks that usually seem to ride these things! :giggle: ...

1) I've seen a lot of people riding 27.5s all round or mullets. Is there an active reason to NOT ride a 29er pair on these things? That was gonna be my plan, as I have a set of 29er boost wheels to donate to the bike. Naturally, my choice of headset and whether to Slackerize the bike would be affected by this overall wheel choice, so I'd rather get it right first time. Did anyone ever try 29s and hate it or have issues? Technically, at 179cm, I'm went smalled with the frame, so my (amateur) thinking was that I could go for 29s to compensate AND reduce potential pedal strikes, etc. Any thoughts?

2) I was thinking of going for a 170cm fork at the front and therefore wanted around 160cm at the back if possible and would love to know the latest thinking on this, now that people have lived with these bikes for a while. Essentially, which offset spacers and shock dimension combo is tried and tested and pretty much assured to give me both the best travel and frame security, based on long term testing. I'm happy to waive my warranty to make this happen, but didn't wanna go to the untested extreme.

Many thanks in advance for any help.

Cheers,

Snotty
 
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Why not try the 29er route, you've got the wheels, at worst you can change the rim.

150mm standard on the rear, would you be able to notice that extra 10mm travel, I couldn't. Anyway a 150mm rear / 170mm front end sounds a pretty good combo to me.

Far better to ride a pretty standard known to be good design, then work your way up to your ideals as time goes on, when you understand what you and your bike actually needs, rather than being directed by AN Other's missives on the Internet which maybe a totally different requirement.
 
Waynemarlow said:
Why not try the 29er route, you've got the wheels, at worst you can change the rim.

150mm standard on the rear, would you be able to notice that extra 10mm travel, I couldn't. Anyway a 150mm rear / 170mm front end sounds a pretty good combo to me.

Far better to ride a pretty standard known to be good design, then work your way up to your ideals as time goes on, when you understand what you and your bike actually needs, rather than being directed by AN Other's missives on the Internet which maybe a totally different requirement.
Click to expand...
You might be right.

And, yeah, I hadn't thought about the idea of changing the rim alone...

Re. the shock, I do like the idea of the 210-60 that Neeko is running, but, based only on the videos he posts alone, it is hard to know if his E10 has seen some serious downhill action.

Apologies, Neeko, if I falsely jumped to conclusions... 🙈🙃
 
It's cool @Snotgobbler 😅

Truth be told, my E10 has been at FOD on a few occasions. And hasn't skipped a beat or caused issues.

But I will stipulate what I said in my video, "your decision to over-stroke the bike WILL void the warranty".

My second E10 (E10v2), will run a conventional 210x55
20220706_224227.jpg

This shock basically 👍🏿
 
Neeko DeVinchi said:
It's cool @Snotgobbler 😅

Truth be told, my E10 has been at FOD on a few occasions. And hasn't skipped a beat or caused issues.

But I will stipulate what I said in my video, "your decision to over-stroke the bike WILL void the warranty".

My second E10 (E10v2), will run a conventional 210x55
View attachment 94976
This shock basically 👍🏿
Click to expand...
Damn you!

Just when I had thought I'd settled on the 210x60...

I had actually considered a coil, but know that a coil setup is not just related to weight but to a bike's specific suspension and pivot setup.

And the best way to establish what that is for a TREK is to go into a bike shop, and see what the TREK staff (of similar weight) are running, coilwise, for a particular bike.

This, sadly, is gonna be much tougher/impossible to do with an E10... so your experience on this will be invaluable... but also hard to assimulate for comparative purposes as I'm 179 and 70kg.

Still, I'd be fascinated to find out your findings.

When is it going on @Neeko DeVinchi ...?
 
Snotgobbler said:
Damn you!

Just when I had thought I'd settled on the 210x60...

I had actually considered a coil, but know that a coil setup is not just related to weight but to a bike's specific suspension and pivot setup.

And the best way to establish what that is for a TREK is to go into a bike shop, and see what the TREK staff (of similar weight) are running, coilwise, for a particular bike.

This, sadly, is gonna be much tougher/impossible to do with an E10... so your experience on this will be invaluable... but also hard to assimulate for comparative purposes as I'm 179 and 70kg.

Still, I'd be fascinated to find out your findings.

When is it going on @Neeko DeVinchi ...?
Click to expand...
I'm still painting my frame (friggin labouring this is with sanding and coating, then sanding and coating etc 😅).
I'll spread the word once I've made significant progress and take pics 👍🏿
 
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