Levo Gen 3 Specialized Gen 3 2022 Levo Megathread!

Further testing sorry

Rode without the battery. Rattle still there

Fox 38s are making a knocking noise. See video. Is this normal? (Need to point out that the above rattle is still there even when I rode with the Pikes)

- YouTube

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Replaced the entire headset assembly hope stuff except for a ritchey gold upper bearing. No longer have any play in the slack cup. Much better water seal by the look of it too. Might also be worth me pointing out that I do know how to tighten up a headset.

There is obvious wear showing on the inside of the lowers as though the forks out of whack and its been wearing more in one section.170 air shaft is now in so my warranty on the 38s is probably done for. I think it works well but the rear end is lacking now. Still think my 38s feel harsh unless I run the pressure low and have to deal with bottom outs.

Something I've had since new. When I put it in turbo and pedal from a standstill then suddenly stop there is a knock when the motor cuts out from what I assume is the motor or the lower linkages. Is this normal please?

Thanks

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mike172 said:
Further testing sorry

Rode without the battery. Rattle still there

Fox 38s are making a knocking noise. See video. Is this normal? (Need to point out that the above rattle is still there even when I rode with the Pikes)

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.
youtube.com youtube.com

Replaced the entire headset assembly hope stuff except for a ritchey gold upper bearing. No longer have any play in the slack cup. Much better water seal by the look of it too. Might also be worth me pointing out that I do know how to tighten up a headset.

There is obvious wear showing on the inside of the lowers as though the forks out of whack and its been wearing more in one section.170 air shaft is now in so my warranty on the 38s is probably done for. I think it works well but the rear end is lacking now. Still think my 38s feel harsh unless I run the pressure low and have to deal with bottom outs.

Something I've had since new. When I put it in turbo and pedal from a standstill then suddenly stop there is a knock when the motor cuts out from what I assume is the motor or the lower linkages. Is this normal please?

Thanks

View attachment 76359

View attachment 76360
Click to expand...
Which Hope did you get? I might have to go this route, too to eliminate the play.
 
sometimesjoe said:
Which Hope did you get? I might have to go this route, too to eliminate the play.
Click to expand...

The pick and mix stuff. I bought from SJS cycles

3 Hope Headset Shim - Silver - 0.4mm - HS127 (sure the FSA one would be fine)
1 Hope 07 Upper Taper Ring - Silver - HS124S
1 Hope 07 Top Cover - Black - HS126N
1 Hope 1 1/2" Headset Crown Race - Silver - HS137S
1 Hope 07 Top Seal - HS125

Whatever you do don't get a head doctor.

Ritchey WCS Headset Bearing Gold 1.1/8"45°x45°x41.8 (Wiggle)
 
mike172 said:
Further testing sorry

Rode without the battery. Rattle still there

Fox 38s are making a knocking noise. See video. Is this normal? (Need to point out that the above rattle is still there even when I rode with the Pikes)

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.
youtube.com youtube.com

Replaced the entire headset assembly hope stuff except for a ritchey gold upper bearing. No longer have any play in the slack cup. Much better water seal by the look of it too. Might also be worth me pointing out that I do know how to tighten up a headset.

There is obvious wear showing on the inside of the lowers as though the forks out of whack and its been wearing more in one section.170 air shaft is now in so my warranty on the 38s is probably done for. I think it works well but the rear end is lacking now. Still think my 38s feel harsh unless I run the pressure low and have to deal with bottom outs.

Something I've had since new. When I put it in turbo and pedal from a standstill then suddenly stop there is a knock when the motor cuts out from what I assume is the motor or the lower linkages. Is this normal please?

Thanks

View attachment 76359

View attachment 76360
Click to expand...

I'm 100% sure that there's something rattling around in my frame. Probably something in yours too. Check out my tread "help me find the rattle" and you'll see the shit that others have found. GL
 
I had a read of that thread. Absolute joke. Spesh have really dropped a bollock haven't they.

Be interesting to ride the bike with the new headset in place. Ill try get out again soon and ill keep reporting back
 
The internal plastic cable routing rattles. I installed AXS on my Pro and pulled out the dropper and mech plastic sleeves. It helped reduce my rattle very significantly. There is one plastic sleeve remaining which is for the rear brake. I was going to pull this out and the use a foam sleeve.

if you look where the plastic cable goes, down the frame arm near the shock, and if you manually wiggle the cable from outside the frame, the sleeve knocks on the frame inside. I’ve now pushed some bubble wrap into the frame and this has stopped the sleeve moving. I’ve also wrapped all the other electric cables in bubble wrap, I am confident that they will no longer move and cause a rattle.

not sure why Spesh use this routing method rather than put moulded tubes in the frame?
 
Dave_B said:
The internal plastic cable routing rattles. I installed AXS on my Pro and pulled out the dropper and mech plastic sleeves. It helped reduce my rattle very significantly. There is one plastic sleeve remaining which is for the rear brake. I was going to pull this out and the use a foam sleeve.

if you look where the plastic cable goes, down the frame arm near the shock, and if you manually wiggle the cable from outside the frame, the sleeve knocks on the frame inside. I’ve now pushed some bubble wrap into the frame and this has stopped the sleeve moving. I’ve also wrapped all the other electric cables in bubble wrap, I am confident that they will no longer move and cause a rattle.

not sure why Spesh use this routing method rather than put moulded tubes in the frame?
Click to expand...

I've moved to AXS as well, put bubble wrap in place down the top tube and under the cables although I may jam some more down there now you have said that. Seems a real shame to remove it. What do you do when you rip off a derailleur and cant get a replacement for 3 months and the cable routing is gone?

My old stumpy had foam internal routing I think.
 
Really wondering why this didn‘t come up so far: I am riding my Expert since around 800 kms now. When going above 25km/h there is a very noticeable resistance from the motor. It’s not about the resistance when pedaling, it is that the bike is not free when rolling downhill. Feels like you’re held back by a rubber band… or like recuperation in a plugin-hybrid car what is slowing you down.
Maybe some hidden feature 🙄

I also do have a Scott trekking bike with a Brose Drive S – where this is definitely not the case. When I am riding with buddies on their 2020 and 21 Levos – it is not the case on their bikes. I am always falling behind when we are cruising on a slight downhill, no pedaling.

It has been discussed in the german forum, others also feel it, but the discussion just died at some point.

As more people now have the bike – didn’t you notice? really annoying….
 
Stone0207 said:
Really wondering why this didn‘t come up so far: I am riding my Expert since around 800 kms now. When going above 25km/h there is a very noticeable resistance from the motor. It’s not about the resistance when pedaling, it is that the bike is not free when rolling downhill. Feels like you’re held back by a rubber band… or like recuperation in a plugin-hybrid car what is slowing you down.
Maybe some hidden feature 🙄

I also do have a Scott trekking bike with a Brose Drive S – where this is definitely not the case. When I am riding with buddies on their 2020 and 21 Levos – it is not the case on their bikes. I am always falling behind when we are cruising on a slight downhill, no pedaling.

It has been discussed in the german forum, others also feel it, but the discussion just died at some point.

As more people now have the bike – didn’t you notice? really annoying….
Click to expand...
That shouldn't have any resistance, as you're not "help-up" by the motor, but rather the freewheel of the wheels. Check your bearings :)
 
Darkyhs said:
That shouldn't have any resistance, as you're not "help-up" by the motor, but rather the freewheel of the wheels. Check your bearings :)
Click to expand...
That is too easy imo…my buddy has it on his 22 Expert, two or three reported on the german pedelecforum. As you own the bike - can you indeed confirm that it is not the case with yours?
 
Stone0207 said:
That is too easy imo…my buddy has it on his 22 Expert, two or three reported on the german pedelecforum. As you own the bike - can you indeed confirm that it is not the case with yours?
Click to expand...
I do not feel like the bike is holding me back. It is impossible for your motor to drag on the downhill, as you're cruising down. Here you are slowed down by your tires and/or freehub.
 
Curious, why but the levo instead of the kenevo, which has more travel?
 
Stone0207 said:
Really wondering why this didn‘t come up so far: I am riding my Expert since around 800 kms now. When going above 25km/h there is a very noticeable resistance from the motor. It’s not about the resistance when pedaling, it is that the bike is not free when rolling downhill. Feels like you’re held back by a rubber band… or like recuperation in a plugin-hybrid car what is slowing you down.
Maybe some hidden feature 🙄

I also do have a Scott trekking bike with a Brose Drive S – where this is definitely not the case. When I am riding with buddies on their 2020 and 21 Levos – it is not the case on their bikes. I am always falling behind when we are cruising on a slight downhill, no pedaling.

It has been discussed in the german forum, others also feel it, but the discussion just died at some point.

As more people now have the bike – didn’t you notice? really annoying….
Click to expand...


No

As said some things to check

Wheel Bearings spin freely
Freehub (not sure on this one though)
Tires
Brake Calipers dragging
 
I’ve had my S3 now for a few rides and I normally remove the battery to charge. Why is it so difficult to remove this battery? I have 1 spacer on the expander at the end of the battery. If I remove that spacer it slides right out, but I’m worried of a rattle I’ve been reading about. Is it normal to be so difficult to remove. It’s like I have to use the battery as a slide hammer.
 
I think it is S4 and above that need additional spacers, maybe you have them installed? two small plastic shims?
My post further up covers all this and there are pictures and descriptions.
 
Dave_B said:
I think it is S4 and above that need additional spacers, maybe you have them installed? two small plastic shims?
My post further up covers all this and there are pictures and descriptions.
Click to expand...
It came with 1 spacer installed and i have a spare in the small parts bag. Was thinking of removing the 1 and having none installed
 
crazyethnic said:
Well I payed $24,000.00 Australian for my S Works 3 months ago and they still can't tell me if it will be here this year, it's starting to effect my health. I am starting to think of going to a different brand.
Click to expand...

Same here. But I only have a deposit in. SHop said bike was allocated and then it never came. They blamed on rep. No idea what’s really going on but I suspect they didn’t get all the bikes they though they were getting. Apparently I still *might* get the bike before Christmas.

I have another bike (e160 Merida). So it’s just an inconvenience for me. But it’s not a great look for Specialized.

Gordon
 
If your on the fence about a gen3, yes the pricing is crazy expensive but my god you won’t stop smiling, it’s an absolute monster. I have noW beat times set on my “light weight” megatower/SL on nearly all the DH runs and off piste at my local, it’s really hard to explain how they have managed to loose the heavy feeling with this bike.
05C7DBBA-C6D8-40E9-AF5A-34B75F9A621F.jpeg
 
Hi

New here, picked up my Expert a couple of weeks back..

I’ve made a few changes, added XX1 AXS (with XX1 chain) and AXS dropper for a clean cockpit. I’ve run the AXS stuff on my other bike for a good year now and it’s been faultless.

Invisiframe to frame and forks

Schwalbe tyres, Magic Mary and Big Betty in Supertrail soft compound.

Sram HS2 discs.. 220/200.. I bought these for looks mainly but they have the added benefit of bringing the biting point sooner as they’re 2mm thick. I like the brakes to bite really soon and was contemplating changing the leavers to RSC to gain adjustment but now I don’t need to bother with that.

Specialized carbon bars 800mm wide, the standard ones are too narrow for comfort (for me) and Diety stem the same as the S Works model.

I’m only a couple of rides in but I love it already.

8247956F-1AED-4623-A64F-770AC801A905.jpeg
 
Hi !

I think there are 2 interesting cases for a new linkage

a) Coil shock conversion and cascade with more leverage progression
b) Travel increase: 160rear/170front would be my dream levo 🚀

But with my actual air shock setup with super deluxe megneg shock there are really enough possibilities to form the spring curve. (negative spacers for midstroke and mainvolume for endstroke progression)

So i would only get triggered to cascade with a rear travel increase

Greets,

Chris
 
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