Dengfu E10 - The CHEEB V1.0 - Discussion

Hi.

These crank bolts are M15 internal thread, 28mm cap diameter. Cheap on Aliexpress and huge colour choice.

1629870961509.png


Cheers

Brent
 
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Just went back again to mullet setup ?. I did'nt like the 29er front and rear. The bike was climbing better but in technical uphill the front felt nervous. Sometimes i even lost balance and was crashing twice. Cornering in uphill and of course also downhill was more difficult and the bike felt less plenty, less stable when descending. Had the feeling the front is not doing what i want but that i had to follow where my front wheel wanted to go ?. For me geometry with mullet setup looks way better and it also feels much better to me.

Anyone else tried 29er or 27,5 front and rear and would like to share his experiences?

IMG_20210916_210046.jpg


Collage_20210916_211434.jpg
 
I had a 29 inch dengfu e05. And I can copy your experience with the 29 inch tyres. My brother has a bmc amp with 29 inch and that feels completely different (better).

Lately I bought a second bike. The lightcarbon 004 with m600. It came with 27,5 tyres. What a difference! So much better and faster.

Today I tried a 29 inch front wheel for the lightcarbon Bike. And had much better Strava times after that. Could feel there seems to be more grip but it was more difficult to follow the corners. And had the front wheel almost wash out many many times. The point of losing grip is twitchy compared to 27,5 front wheel.

I question myself if the extra grip is worth the los of playfulness.

I’m going to switch the front wheel around a few times to learn what really suits me best.

Important to tel is that with 27,5 inch I use a 160mm fork. And with 29 inch a 130mm one. Geometry with 130mm and 29 inch front is same as 27,5mm with 150mm.

160mm fork with 29inch I tried for 100 meters and than turned back home because I could already tell I would not performed on the track as I prefer.
 
Just went back again to mullet setup ?. I did'nt like the 29er front and rear. The bike was climbing better but in technical uphill the front felt nervous. Sometimes i even lost balance and was crashing twice. Cornering in uphill and of course also downhill was more difficult and the bike felt less plenty, less stable when descending. Had the feeling the front is not doing what i want but that i had to follow where my front wheel wanted to go ?. For me geometry with mullet setup looks way better and it also feels much better to me.

Anyone else tried 29er or 27,5 front and rear and would like to share his experiences?

View attachment 71674

View attachment 71675
Your bike looks amazing. Thanks for the feedback. I prefer the mullet setup on mine which gives me increased confidence when climbing and smashing downhill. It seems we have the same fork/shock which works so well. Thinking of putting a mini water bottle under the shock - YT Thirstmaster 2000 475mL Water Bottle Set Black (For Decoy MY19-20)
 
Depends, I ride 27.5 fat 2.8 front and rear in the muddy slop of the English winter and as soon as the faster trails arrive in the spring, on goes a 29 x 2.6 Front.

Seems to work well.
 
Your bike looks amazing. Thanks for the feedback. I prefer the mullet setup on mine which gives me increased confidence when climbing and smashing downhill. It seems we have the same fork/shock which works so well. Thinking of putting a mini water bottle under the shock - YT Thirstmaster 2000 475mL Water Bottle Set Black (For Decoy MY19-20)
How would you fix the bottle holder?
 
Rivit it into the frame. Not to differcult. Most LBS can do this.
I used those M5 rubber rivets from Amazon. Positive: No riveting tool required, vibration damping, easy to use, clean look, cheep.
Negative: Bigger bore diameter (9.3mm) required, sensitive to overtorque.

6052B2F2-6591-430F-9E47-E699A82C348D.jpeg
 
Hi.

These crank bolts are M15 internal thread, 28mm cap diameter. Cheap on Aliexpress and huge colour choice.

View attachment 69779

Cheers

Brent
Did anyone buy these? (I did after drilling out the original one - which appeared to be made of cheese it was so soft). I'm not sure that they look a good fit on the stock cranks (and totally don't fit at all on the Luna X1 cranks - 24mm diameter required for those). On the stock cranks it looks like this:
1631904552206.png


The step down from the outer diameter to the inner is 1mm and the inner ring is 25mm. Seems to be a lot of pressure on the knurled thinner outer of the bolt to me.

For my shorter luna cranks, I was able to turn them down using a the ghetto method of a drill, a chopped up hex key and a file clamped to a work bench, it doesn't look the neatest job but gets the job done and requires very little skill ;-)
1631904354230.png

1631904392466.png
 
How do you fit these exactly….they look great.
Bore diameter 9.3 (not 9.5 als mentioned in installation drawing). Grease the rivet outside a little, push it into the bore (screw a M5 screw into the rivet and use a plastic hammer if needed, be careful). Thats it. When You mount Your accessory, be careful when You tighten the bolts. The screw pulls the brass insert upwards, compressing and expanding the rubber, fixing the rivet inside the hole. You dont get a clear feedback during tightening the screw, if You overtorque, You pull the brass insert out of the rubber, and thats it. It happened to me 2 or 3 times, not a big thing but You need to get used to the tightening force. The 9.3 mm hole looks quite big…
 
32T chainring ?! isn't that small ? especially for flat runs. I would expect you to climb trees with such gear..

The original chainring beeing 38T, I have mounted a 40T and I even have ordered a 42T : STRONGLIGHT E-Bike Plateau Bosch Gen1/3, Brose, noir | Bikester.fr because even on flat with the lowest the assistance I feel I have to move legs too fast... So I'm very surprised about 32T... but I would happy to hear your feelings about it !
 
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I have the same setup and its not allways flat most of the time i ride in germany ,comute to work,not so young anymore ,++ kilos, years of no riding working on my condition so that 32t is perfect for now?
 
So mullet setup is DEFINITLY the better choice then 29er front and rear. Bike again feels more playful, better in tecnical uphill and way more stable when descending. Just love it ??.
Thanks @thaeber for the hint with the correct wheel circumference ✌?

IMG-20210926-WA0002.jpg
 
32T chainring ?! isn't that small ? especially for flat runs. I would expect you to climb trees with such gear..

The original chainring beeing 38T, I have mounted a 40T and I even have ordered a 42T : STRONGLIGHT E-Bike Plateau Bosch Gen1/3, Brose, noir | Bikester.fr because even on flat with the lowest the assistance I feel I have to move legs too fast... So I'm very surprised about 32T... but I would happy to hear your feelings about it !
I run with a 32/9speed 11-50. And it feels like a spin class but I do need to climb steep stuff so getting used to it.
 
I run with a 32/9speed 11-50. And it feels like a spin class but I do need to climb steep stuff so getting used to it.
Please can you detail with which items ? pics of your derailleur position ? necessary to use 12V derailleur ? i have tried with several ZTTO cassette (not find other in 11/50 9V), sram EX1 derailleur, sram X0 9V shift lever. It work corectly at workshop but the 2 taller pignos jump 1 teeth ofen when i apply strong torque to climb, alike if casette is worn out. i haven't find why ? in add i have broken several KMC 9 speed chains (bad quality, badly crimped). I ended by reinstall the 11 speed. But i will apreciate tio use 9 speed, it is enough for M600
 
So mullet setup is DEFINITLY the better choice then 29er front and rear. Bike again feels more playful, better in tecnical uphill and way more stable when descending. Just love it ??.
Thanks @thaeber for the hint with the correct wheel circumference ✌?

View attachment 72402
Thanks mate, my pleasure! Recently changed the front to a Fox 38 Factory 29“ 180. This fork really makes a difference, More speed, more confidence, very precise and forgiving on fast descends. Love it!
 
Thanks mate, my pleasure! Recently changed the front to a Fox 38 Factory 29“ 180. This fork really makes a difference, More speed, more confidence, very precise and forgiving on fast descends. Love it!
If I remember, you had a Mezzer Pro that I am wondering about, but now I doubt if it is a good option. I'm still thinking of Zeb ult 29 or lyrik ult 29. What are your experiences with mezzer?
 
If I remember, you had a Mezzer Pro that I am wondering about, but now I doubt if it is a good option. I'm still thinking of Zeb ult 29 or lyrik ult 29. What are your experiences with mezzer?
The Mezzer is a great fork from performance point of view, with the unique IRT feature and hydraulic bottom out. But the fork started to creek from the steering tube to fork crown connection, and developed noticeable bushing play. After 4! weeks of waiting for my warranty replacement I asked for refund and decided to buy a Fox instead. The Mezzer tread in the MTB news forum says that this is an issue with the Mezzer, and I don’t want to send my fork in for repair every couple of month. After changing the fork, my front is quiet and my smile is back. The Fox performance is even better then the Mezzer, in regards of small bump compliance, and beefier feeling. Hope the Fox doesn’t start to creek - its also a known issue here.
 
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