2019 Turbo Levo Owners Thread

Kiwi in Wales

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Rob spotted late for church.....

Wow that was a bloody scary viewing...... that could easily have ended in disaster at that speed ?

Highly skilled or just big balls? Or both? I think both.

Just shows you, you don’t need a top of the range bike to go fast. He was clearly faster around most of the corners than the roadies and was only a little bit slower on the straights.

Was it just my perception or were those roadies acting pretty aggressive towards this guy for continually over taking them and beating them at their own game?

Loved the very end bit when he went into the church. He didn’t even appear tired...... he was probably maxed out on adrenaline and more than likely had a huge smile on his face and thinking ‘shove that in your pipe and smoke it roadsters’ ?
 

Dusty

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Jul 14, 2018
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Liverpool
Wow that was a bloody scary viewing...... that could easily have ended in disaster at that speed ?

Highly skilled or just big balls? Or both? I think both.

Just shows you, you don’t need a top of the range bike to go fast. He was clearly faster around most of the corners than the roadies and was only a little bit slower on the straights.

Was it just my perception or were those roadies acting pretty aggressive towards this guy for continually over taking them and beating them at their own game?

Loved the very end bit when he went into the church. He didn’t even appear tired...... he was probably maxed out on adrenaline and more than likely had a huge smile on his face and thinking ‘shove that in your pipe and smoke it roadsters’ ?
I just found it hilarious ??
 

Thomas

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Aug 29, 2018
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.....but I’m having a hard time really justifying either over the Comp Alloy. Apart from the obvious materials, and the cork sniffery, is there any discernible difference between the Comp alloy and carbon models? The specs seem the same.

For 1.100 EUR extra you get Fox Shocks instead of Rock Shock and some fancy (no aluminium welds) Carbon frame with different colors. If you have to have Carbon, that this will always be in back of your mind, ooooo I ride Alloy. But in reality, with 20kg+ bike, really doesn't matter.
Than we would all say, carbon frame is much stiffer, big improvement in ride quality yada, yada, yada..
This is not a road bike or much lighter normal MTB. Most of us are not series competitors or ex Pro-s, that difference in Alloy vs Carbonon 20kg plus bike, would be that noticeable on our everyday rides.
For normal user, there all comes down to, I have to have Carbon and that is it, money is no problem, so Carbon is the way to go.:coffee:
For me personally, even Comp Alloy is not worth it, if we set aside color choices.
I went with Basis and will change right away all the components to new 4 pistons XT, was even thinking of new 4 piston XTR and old XTR 11 speed derailleur-shifter combo.
At the end, will have better components than Alloy and Carbon Comp and have different options available. Will sell all the original components from the bike and still have money to spare to buy better fork, maybe adding dropper post, etc.
Than why even change the components you would ask? Well, that is personal preference SRAM vs SHIMANO.;)
 
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Kiwi in Wales

Short cranks rule!🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿
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I thought when you ride on a high end bike its not the same than on a « classic bike » in downhill/enduro/all mountain.

Why ? Carbon wheels, rear triangle in carbon etc etc, like a Demo 8 alloy and a Sworks, a beginner will not enjoy to ride on a Demo 8 Sworks.

A customer who want to try the new Stumpjumper in last July took the Stumpjumper LT alloy for one day in Morzine. He was happy . He try the Stumpjumper Expert with better carbon wheels than the origin, coil shock and a fox 36 the next week, definitively not the same bike, and the customer said the same, not comfortable for him, too stiff.

Levo is the same, they are all perfect ? but a Sworks is not to do the same thing than a comp alloy.

Agree, an SWorks is different to an alloy comp.

However, an SWorks has the adjustment available to set the bike up to suit the rider and riding conditions much better than the alloy comp.
This is down to the bike shop staff having the knowledge to understand the skill set of the rider, the terrain being ridden on and listening to the feedback from the rider after he/she has been out on a few ‘test’ rides so you can dial in the adjustment required. This could be a long or short process as every rider is different and has different perceptions but in the end, it is down to the skill and perseverance of the person setting up the bike for the rider. If they don’t know what they are doing then you are on a road to nowhere.

A poorly set up SWorks will be no match for a well set up alloy comp.
 

Thomas

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Aug 29, 2018
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I will wait until the sram stuff breaks, shouldn't be too long.
:ROFLMAO:(y)

Personally want to have a peace of mind right from the start and maybe get something for the components that are still new.
Can help my self, I just like tinkering around bikes, striping down components, maybe even more than riding.o_O
 

R120

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The SRAM stuff isnt about to break.

Personally one of the reasons that i wish they sold frame sets is that i would like to buy a carbon frames, then kit it out in full Shimano as thats my personal preference. It also really bugs me when manufacturers mix and match brakes and group sets, as i find it hard to set the controls up how i like them with separate clamps
 

Gary

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Carbon wheels, rear triangle in carbon etc etc, like a Demo 8 alloy and a Sworks, a beginner will not enjoy to ride on a Demo 8 Sworks.

A customer who want to try the new Stumpjumper in last July took the Stumpjumper LT alloy for one day in Morzine. He was happy . He try the Stumpjumper Expert with better carbon wheels than the origin, coil shock and a fox 36 the next week, definitively not the same bike, and the customer said the same, not comfortable for him, too stiff..
Wow!
Your anecdodes and analogies are not only hugely irrelivent, they're absloute nonsense.
As above, (kiwi's post) the S-Works suspension is MOAR adjustable. It can be set up MOAR comfortable if that's your preference. Carbon rims are stiffer but tyre pressures have more effect on how trail chatter transfers to the rider than the rims.
Please tell me you don't work in a bike shop? Especially as a mechanic? and Especially as the mechanic who sets up demo bikes for customers..

Beginners generally struggle to ride any DH bike in Morzine properly. it has nothing to do with whether they have carbon frames or rims and everything to do with their riding experience, riding skill and poor position on the bike
 

FinDoc

New Member
Sep 23, 2018
3
1
Finland
For 1.100 EUR extra you get Fox Shocks instead of Rock Shock and some fancy (no aluminium welds) Carbon frame with different colors. If you have to have Carbon, that this will always be in back of your mind, ooooo I ride Alloy. But in reality, with 20kg+ bike, really doesn't matter.
Than we would all say, carbon frame is much stiffer, big improvement in ride quality yada, yada, yada..
This is not a road bike or much lighter normal MTB. Most of us are not series competitors or ex Pro-s, that difference in Alloy vs Carbonon 20kg plus bike, would be that noticeable on our everyday rides.
For normal user, there all comes down to, I have to have Carbon and that is it, money is no problem, so Carbon is the way to go.:coffee:
For me personally, even Comp Alloy is not worth it, if we set aside color choices.
I went with Basis and will change right away all the components to new 4 pistons XT, was even thinking of new 4 piston XTR and old XTR 11 speed derailleur-shifter combo.
At the end, will have better components than Alloy and Carbon Comp and have different options available. Will sell all the original components from the bike and still have money to spare to buy better fork, maybe adding dropper post, etc.
Than why even change the components you would ask? Well, that is personal preference SRAM vs SHIMANO.;)

I totally agree with you. In Finland, a Levo Comp cost 1300€ more than a base model. For me, this not makes sense because the price difference between those two model’s components is about 600-700€. As you said, if we set aside color choices then the only alloy version that price makes sense is a base model.

At first, I was going to order the Comp because my previous bike was 2018 Comp and I was quite happy with it… But now I think that I have changed my mind and going to order the base model with a bigger battery, a better brakes, and a dropper post. Despite that, I like more the Comp's Cast Battleship/Hyper color than the base model Black/Nice Blue color.
 

Cho Cyril

Member
Sep 12, 2018
9
15
Chamonix
Wow!
Your anecdodes and analogies are not only hugely irrelivent, they're absloute nonsense.
As above, (kiwi's post) the S-Works suspension is MOAR adjustable. It can be set up MOAR comfortable if that's your preference. Carbon rims are stiffer but tyre pressures have more effect on how trail chatter transfers to the rider than the rims.
Please tell me you don't work in a bike shop? Especially as a mechanic? and Especially as the mechanic who sets up demo bikes for customers..

Beginners generally struggle to ride any DH bike in Morzine properly. it has nothing to do with whether they have carbon frames or rims and everything to do with their riding experience, riding skill and poor position on the bike

Wow.
?
 
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GunnyAmp

Member
Aug 25, 2018
40
27
Gunnison, CO
.....but I’m having a hard time really justifying either over the Comp Alloy. Apart from the obvious materials, and the cork sniffery, is there any discernible difference between the Comp alloy and carbon models? The specs seem the same.

For 1.100 EUR extra you get Fox Shocks instead of Rock Shock and some fancy (no aluminium welds) Carbon frame with different colors. If you have to have Carbon, that this will always be in back of your mind, ooooo I ride Alloy. But in reality, with 20kg+ bike, really doesn't matter.
Than we would all say, carbon frame is much stiffer, big improvement in ride quality yada, yada, yada..
This is not a road bike or much lighter normal MTB. Most of us are not series competitors or ex Pro-s, that difference in Alloy vs Carbonon 20kg plus bike, would be that noticeable on our everyday rides.
For normal user, there all comes down to, I have to have Carbon and that is it, money is no problem, so Carbon is the way to go.:coffee:
For me personally, even Comp Alloy is not worth it, if we set aside color choices.
I went with Basis and will change right away all the components to new 4 pistons XT, was even thinking of new 4 piston XTR and old XTR 11 speed derailleur-shifter combo.
At the end, will have better components than Alloy and Carbon Comp and have different options available. Will sell all the original components from the bike and still have money to spare to buy better fork, maybe adding dropper post, etc.
Than why even change the components you would ask? Well, that is personal preference SRAM vs SHIMANO.;)

I agree with you point of view, except I am a newbie and will only add a dropper day one and then see if any of the stock components leave me lacking and upgrade as necessary. The bonus is the Hyper Green is my all time favorite color. It is going to sting a bit that once my wife rides mine she will want the Women’s Comp for $1k more than I spent but happy wife is happy life
 

Thomas

Well-known member
Aug 29, 2018
248
254
Europe
Stll looking for a photo or 100% confirmation what caliper adapter is on the back of Alloy LEVO.
Fork for entry lavel will exept 160mm rotor native and Comp 180mm. For the fork adapter will have to use;
160 mm fork mount:
SM-MA-F203P/P2 - for using a 203 mm brake disc

Couldn't find decent photos or video for the back. But still. booth adaptors look the same?
Screenshot (75).png




Screenshot (82).png

If the adaptor is the same on the back 180mm native, what would we logical Sram 20mm post adapter for 200mm?
If this is correct than for Shimano setup, will have to use SM-MA90-F203P/P on the back, right?
 

Ledg

New Member
Sep 22, 2018
8
9
Uk
Stll looking for a photo or 100% confirmation what caliper adapter is on the back of Alloy LEVO.
Fork for entry lavel will exept 160mm rotor native and Comp 180mm. For the fork adapter will have to use;
160 mm fork mount:
SM-MA-F203P/P2 - for using a 203 mm brake disc

Couldn't find decent photos or video for the back. But still. booth adaptors look the same?
View attachment 5477



View attachment 5478
If the adaptor is the same on the back 180mm native, what would we logical Sram 20mm post adapter for 200mm?
If this is correct than for Shimano setup, will have to use SM-MA90-F203P/P on the back, right?
If you are changing brakes why don’t you just leave the adapters on the bike and do a straight swap. Unless you are swapping the discs as well to a different size. I’ve had Shimano, Magura and sram on my current bike and just leave the same adaptors on the bike.
 

Thomas

Well-known member
Aug 29, 2018
248
254
Europe
If you are changing brakes why don’t you just leave the adapters on the bike and do a straight swap. Unless you are swapping the discs as well to a different size. I’ve had Shimano, Magura and sram on my current bike and just leave the same adaptors on the bike.
I was thinking, that I have to buy Shimano 203mm rotors, so would have to go with Shimano adapter.
But as I just read, people are mixing SRAM and SHIMANO rotors-caliper combo, with no problems.
So basically, If I leave the Sram 200mm Rotors, I can just leave the same adaptors on the bike, problem solved?:unsure:
 
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ccrdave

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if you use shimano 203 rotors with sram 200m mounts you need to space the caliper about 1.5mm.
my opinion best to swap the mounts for shimano ones
 

Thomas

Well-known member
Aug 29, 2018
248
254
Europe
if you use shimano 203 rotors with sram 200m mounts you need to space the caliper about 1.5mm.
my opinion best to swap the mounts for shimano ones
I know, if I will use 203mm Shimano Rotors that will have to use Shimano 23mm back and 43mm front adapters.
But as Ledg sugested, I could just run Sram 200mm rotors with existing adapters, will have to decide. In the past, I have good experience with XT Ice-Tech rotors, don't know about Sram centerline rotors, if they are silent like XT.
 

ccrdave

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I use centerline rotors with shimano brakes and they work fine little bit noisy when wet and muddy but could be the pads
 

Thomas

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Aug 29, 2018
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254
Europe
I use centerline rotors with shimano brakes and they work fine little bit noisy when wet and muddy but could be the pads

Dura Ace and XT got also little noisier in the wet.
But if Sram centerline are OK in dry conditions, where I ride and will ride 90% of the time, will probably go that route too..;)
 

Sophie777

Active member
Jul 3, 2018
213
105
Canada
Can anyone who already has the 2019 Levo tell me exactly how shuttle mode is turned on, and whether it really works?
I can't find specific information on shuttle mode anywhere; not even in the Turbo Levo 2019 user manual.
 
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Brezza

New Member
Sep 21, 2018
13
27
Sydney
Can anyone who already has the 2019 Levo tell me exactly how shuttle mode is turned on, and whether it really works?
I can't find specific information on shuttle mode anywhere; not even in the Turbo Levo 2019 user manual.
Through the Mission Control app.
 

Sophie777

Active member
Jul 3, 2018
213
105
Canada
Through the Mission Control app.
But in another thread in this forum, people say the Mission Control App for the new Levo does not work.
If the app doesn't work, and shuttle mode depends on the app; then the shuttle mode probably doesn't work either. I am hoping you or anyone else could confirm whether shuttle mode indeed works?
 

Gary

Old Tartan Bollocks
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No I haven't.
Need to know if the claims Specialized makes about the bike are true, before purchasing.
Which claims? the one that says "It'll create everlasting peace between cyclists and Ecyclists"?
Nah...there's no chance... It's a 29er ;)
 

Thomas

Well-known member
Aug 29, 2018
248
254
Europe
No I haven't.
Need to know if the claims Specialized makes about the bike are true, before purchasing.
Why would they made up something like that?o_O

A completely new feature is the Shuttle Mode which can be enabled through the Mission Control App. Enable it and rather than the usual torque based assistance, the motor provides power based on your cadence. That will be especially useful for less fit riders because the full power of the motor is delivered with a lower pedalling input. Simply put: at higher cadences (from around 60 rpm) the full power of the motor is used without having to pedal at 200 W.

Why do you even need Shuttle mode?
If you can't pedal 150w-200W on a climb, than you will get little less boost, no big deal.
 

R120

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Apr 13, 2018
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The shuttle mode from what I understand I designed for bike park type riding, where you are just lapping runs?
 

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