commencal 2021

[ShaneBean]

So to be clear, the caps have little if anything to do with actually holding the cranks on correct? It the hex bolts job to do that.

Nahh the hex bolts tighten the crank onto the spline, this prevents the crank arm from wearing out the splines on the crank arm and shafts. The caps keep the arm from sliding off. Note everyone who mentions the crank falling off mentions the cap went first. That thread turns into a pissing contest on page two lmao.

 

[robat]

The crankarm will fall off if the 2 hex bolts are not tighten up evenly. The plug on the spindle will not hold the crank, since it's just a piece of plastic. There are also some alloy caps you can buy, maybe they will hold the arm a little longer...
But just tight the bolts properly and you won't have any trouble.

 

[R120]

First thing I would do on any new bike, no matter where you got it from but especially with consumer direct, is that all the bolts are done up properly. Amazing the amount of "new" bikes where they aren't.

 

[robat]

First hing I would do on any new bike, no matter where you got it form but especially with consumer direct, is that all the bolts are done up properly. Amazing the amount fo "new" bikes where they aren't.

Amen ?
Every bike I owned so far had some of the following issues then it was new:
- wrong torque values on bolts
- poor derailleur setup
- self loosening rear axles
- self loosening derailleurs
- cable routing done by a blind person (would be the only excuse)
- almost no (or far to extensive) lubrication inside the suspension

So I would definitely recommend to check the bike completely, before you ride it in some serious terrain.

 

[ShaneBean]

The crankarm will fall off if the 2 hex bolts are not tighten up evenly. The plug on the spindle will not hold the crank, since it's just a piece of plastic. There are also some alloy caps you can buy, maybe they will hold the arm a little longer...
But just tight the bolts properly and you won't have any trouble.

My bike comes with alu caps, even with retightening the hex bolts It's been an issue with shimano ebikes. Still coming off, overall concensus from what I've read is get an alu cap if you have plastic caps. Loctite the two hex bolts and the threaded alu cap.

Amen ?
Every bike I owned so far had some of the following issues then it was new:
- wrong torque values on bolts
- poor derailleur setup
- self loosening rear axles
- self loosening derailleurs
- cable routing done by a blind person (would be the only excuse)
- almost no (or far to extensive) lubrication inside the suspension

So I would definitely recommend to check the bike completely, before you ride it in some serious terrain.

Yup, according to the manuals we should ensure everybody on our entire bike is torqued to spec.

 

[shenchman]

magnet ziptied to crank arm didn't last long, if you try the same I suggest bringing the original sensor fixing bolt with you on your ride + zipties + ziptie cutter so you can revert back to stock & have motor drive.

here's version 2: rare earth magnet with countersunk hole + M3 bugle head machine screw, threads tapped into crank arm with an M3 tap.

magnet:

View attachment 45275

View attachment 45276

View attachment 45277

View attachment 45278

update: DO NOT DO THIS! as predicted the software senses something is wrong & shuts it down, happened to me after about 1 hour today, error code E050. I swapped it back to normal & rebooting didn't clear the error, luckily after about 10 minutes of very painful climbing it self-cleared & all was good again.

 

[GCSquared]

I had my first ride today. 24 miles and 4900 ft. I used a mix of eco and trail, but I depleted the battery and had to climb out the last 1.5 miles, but that part wasn't too steep. It smashes through stuff better than my Ripmo, but of course it isn't as nimble. It's my first ebike and I loved it, but my non-drive crank arm fell off towards the end of the ride. I read this forum before my ride, so I tightened the crank arm bolts and the end caps before the ride, but it still fell off. Will someone please tell me how many spacers go on the non-drive side. I'll need to get a new end cap as well.

Thanks

 

[robat]

When you lock the crankarm hex bolts, make shure that you don't just turn one until it reaches the right torque and then the other. Turn one until you feel some resistance, than the other.
Than apply recommended torque to the first, than second.
Repeat last step at least 2-3 times, since when you tighten one, it will slightly loosen the other.
I don't had to use additional loctite on my E8000, but it's not a bad idea.


And for all the guys new to Shimano motors. I recommend avoiding boost (and at best trail) mode, if your battery is at 2/5. The peak power in boost mode can drain the battery straight from 2/5 to zero. Happened to me a few times and to a lot of people I know. Again only E8000 knowledge.

 

[robat]

Yup, according to the manuals we should ensure everybody on our entire bike is torqued to spec.

But this situation still su**s.
You buy a bike with the price tag of a small car and can't be shure, that it doesn't fall apart on your first ride.
Imagine buying a new car, where your door falls off after the 10th time you open it.
No one would tolerate that ...

 

[Darkyhs]

But this situation still su**s.
You buy a bike with the price tag of a small car and can't be sure, that it doesn't fall apart on your first ride.
Imagine buying a new car, where your door falls off after the 10th time you open it.
No one would tolerate that ...

When you get a car you pick it up from the dealer. If you would buy a car direct sales with discounts of a direct sales brand. I would imagine that you would double-check the doors and wheels if they are all tightened correctly . There is a reason I guess that we do not buy cars online

(The first pic of the bike build-up with the different discs in 220, Magura. I will post some pics when the bike is complete)

However, personally, my brand new Teams edition is now at my LBS to do some changes and check all parts. I only changed the discs and made the wheels tubeless. They will change the brakes, handlebar, and stem and check if all oils are on the correct level, and do the torque

 

[robat]

When you get a car you pick it up from the dealer. If you would buy a car direct sales with discounts of a direct sales brand. I would imagine that you would double-check the doors and wheels if they are all tightened correctly . There is a reason I guess that we do not buy cars online

I would disagree to that statement. Tesla (e.g.) is almost direct sale. And no, i would not check any part on it, if I would buy one new.

 

[yorkshire89]

I would disagree to that statement. Tesla (e.g.) is almost direct sale. And no, i would not check any part on it, if I would buy one new.

You probably should....

'Consumer Reports puts Tesla in second-to-last place for most reliable new cars.'

?

 

[Mcharza]

But this situation still su**s.
You buy a bike with the price tag of a small car and can't be shure, that it doesn't fall apart on your first ride.
Imagine buying a new car, where your door falls off after the 10th time you open it.
No one would tolerate that ...

Yes, these instructions are intended to help you.
If any part cheats or comes off while you are riding your bike, you can injure yourself badly.
So don’t trust that someone else has assembled the bike, but first check that everything is OK

 

[robat]

I'm aware of

You probably should....

'Consumer Reports puts Tesla in second-to-last place for most reliable new cars.'
?

Don't trust a statistic you haven't rigged yourself ??

 

[rb.]

But this situation still su**s.
You buy a bike with the price tag of a small car and can't be shure, that it doesn't fall apart on your first ride.
Imagine buying a new car, where your door falls off after the 10th time you open it.
No one would tolerate that ...

This is where a local bike shop can be a benefit over direct to consumer. My local bike shop takes up to 4 hours to build a bike (which most places would think is way too long) because they go through EVERYTHING and add grease and torque to spec as necessary. But when a customer buys a bike from them they will never have to call back and complain that it’s creaking, or a bolt fell out, or it’s not shifting correctly, etc.

And yet a still have owned a few direct to consumer bikes knowing that I will spend a bit more time myself setting it up.

 

[Darkyhs]

This is where a local bike shop can be a benefit over direct to consumers. My local bike shop takes up to 4 hours to build a bike (which most places would think is way too long) because they go through EVERYTHING and add grease and torque to spec as necessary. But when a customer buys a bike from them they will never have to call back and complain that it’s creaking, or a bolt fell out, or it’s not shifting correctly, etc.

And yet a still have owned a few direct to consumer bikes knowing that I will spend a bit more time myself setting it up.

My LBS, where my Meta Power currently is, they are a Specialized Dealer. My road bike is a Specialized Allez Sprint and I also own the Specialized Stumpjumper Evo from 2020(I will keep that bike for BikePark days). They also do Shimano E-Bike stuff as they are also an official Shimano dealer. For a couple of euros, they do all for me including checking and updating the Shimano engine if needed. Just spend the extra € for your peace of mind. Leave the bike a couple of days to be 100% certain all is good.

Between brackets, they are pretty cool tho. When they have parts that are more expensive than online, they show me where to get it I guess I have always been quite lucky with bike shops Just be a normal person with them and keep open contact with them. Drink a beer with them if necessary. Now they are mounting my Saint Brakes and Renthal parts I got online.

 

[GCSquared]

Yesterday after my ride I sent emails to Commencal and eThirteen regarding the end cap and spacer(s) that went missing when my crank arm fell off. eThirteen replied and said "Unfortunately Commencal doesn't install the cranks with the correct torque after a recall change of the motor of the bike. But if you can let us know your address, we are happy to send over the parts free of charge under goodwill." I'm sure Commencal will reply soon as well.

 

[robbyfritzler]

ye founded , what I meant is that it is not a well sealed engine cover and the contacts seem exposed to me. however great bike, I'm mounting the whole hope braking system

Im also thinking of installing hopes on my essential. The SLX brakes feel lackluster and prone to heat fade.
Did you go E4 or V4? How did the install go? I’d be stupid to keep the shimano 203 mm rotors right? After looking around, if I ordered brakes today it would be 5 weeks til I get em..

 

[robat]

For a couple of euros, they do all for me including checking and updating the Shimano engine if needed.

If they bill you for updating the STEPS unit, they rip you off. ?
It just takes a smartphone, the (free) shimano app, 30 seconds and literally zero effort...

 

[R120]

Does the Commencal use E13 Cranks rather than the Shamano ones? Seems like an odd choice, might be they aren't that great

 

[GCSquared]

Does the Commencal use E13 Cranks rather than the Shamano ones? Seems like an odd choice, might be they aren't that great

The Meta Power Essential uses eThirteen cranks.

 

[R120]

Do they have the safety/security plate like the Shimano cranks? Its effectiveness is something that has been debated down the years but it's supposed to locate the cranks correctly and prevent the crank walking down the spindle.

 

[robat]

Does the Commencal use E13 Cranks rather than the Shamano ones? Seems like an odd choice, might be they aren't that great

Might be, since all the E13 stuff is "ok" at best...
But Shimano crankarms will also fall off, if not attached properly.

 

[GCSquared]

Do they have the safety/security plate like the Shimano cranks? Its effectiveness is something that has been debated down the years but it's supposed to locate the cranks correctly and prevent the crank walking down the spindle.

View attachment 45397

Mine does not have the retaining clip unless it fell out when my crank arm fell off.

 

[melmark]

update: DO NOT DO THIS! as predicted the software senses something is wrong & shuts it down, happened to me after about 1 hour today, error code E050. I swapped it back to normal & rebooting didn't clear the error, luckily after about 10 minutes of very painful climbing it self-cleared & all was good again.

What, are you saying riding a 54lb bike uphill with no power was hard? cmon man eat your spinach ?

 

[shenchman]

if anyone is considering swapping to different length E13 e*spec crankarms, here's the response i got when i asked about availability:
"Our e*spec plus cranks for the Shimano EP8 Motor are OEM only at the moment, but we'll get them in the aftermarket early next year and then you'll find them available in the shop also."

ie these offerings currently on their website are NOT compatible:

e*spec Plus Cranks

Final Sale. No returns. No additional discounts. We brought our World Cup-proven technology to the eBike marketplace. e*spec Plus Alloy Cranks offer a premium drivetrain upgrade for Shimano® EP8 motor systems at an unbeatable value and aesthetic. Looking for eMTB cranks for other sizes or...

www.ethirteen.com

of course shimano crankarms is another option, which would likely involve having to swap out the chainring as well (?). chainline/Q-factor/EP8/frame compatibility makes my brain hurt so i'll probably stick with E13 until i settle on a final length, then consider upgrading to XT.

EP8 EP800 SERIES | SHIMANO BIKE COMPONENT | SHIMANO BIKE-EU

To Build Closer Relationships between People, Nature, and Bicycles. We believe in the power of cycling to create a better world as we move forward. We inspire all people to enjoy our products in their everyday lives and where they take them.

bike.shimano.com

 

[R120]

You shouldn't need to swap the chainring, cranks are independent of it on the Shimano motors

 

[melmark]

Yesterday after my ride I sent emails to Commencal and eThirteen regarding the end cap and spacer(s) that went missing when my crank arm fell off. eThirteen replied and said "Unfortunately Commencal doesn't install the cranks with the correct torque after a recall change of the motor of the bike. But if you can let us know your address, we are happy to send over the parts free of charge under goodwill." I'm sure Commencal will reply soon as well.

Well this seems to be a rather critical issue that Commencal needs to address. I mean this is some serious sh*t that can (already has looks like) cause serious injury. And I need to go get me a torque wrench asap

 

[GCSquared]

Well this seems to be a rather critical issue that Commencal needs to address. I mean this is some serious sh*t that can (already has looks like) cause serious injury. And I need to go get me a torque wrench asap

Commencal just replied and stated that I will need "to tighten the preload cap down to 2-3 nm and then tighten the two pinch bolts on the crank arm. You’ll want to tighten 1 bolt a half turn, and then switch to the other bolt and tighten a half turn. Keep alternating every half turn until you’ve reached 16 nm on each bolt."

 

[VX10]

Hey, anyone happen to come across a serial number or frame number somewhere on the bike? Meta Power Essential here and failed to find one for insurance detail.