Puncture prevention

[Doug e+]

Hi all, I’m looking for some advice as I’ve had a couple of punctures recently. I have a cube reaction hybrid pro 625 running on stock schwalbe smart Sam 29x2.6 with inner tube.
What do you all do to prevent punctures or what’s the best way to repair or just change inner tube. Also what way up should the bike be to take wheel off as I noticed when bike upside down the bosh purion display could get damaged.
Cheers Dougie.

 

[maynard]

Tubeless is the only way . No more punctures. Goggle it .

 

[Beekeeper]

I’m trying Mr Tuffy tire liners at the moment. Not perfect but will see how they go. If I’m still getting punctures then I’ll insert a Tannus Tyre Armour insert and they are basically bullet proof.

My other half has Smart Sam 29x2.6 and they have K-guard written on the rims which I think means Kevlar protected. She has way less punctures than me, maybe only 1 a year and I have perhaps 10 a year.

i get fewer punctures with higher pressures I’ve noticed.

As for protecting the Purion display, I would never place in on the ground, not even on grass without a mat, T-shirt or coat underneath it.

 

[Pdoz]

Tubeless is the only way . No more punctures. Goggle it .

Tannus is the other only way, amongst many only ways. Each with their issues.

 

[7869hodgy]

Tubeless is the only way . No more punctures. Goggle it .

+1. You’ll never go back to tubes.

 

[Doug e+]

Thanks for the quick replies. Tubeless v tannus inserts.
How would I know if my current set up is tubeless ready ? What is involved to go tubeless and I think I’m reading that when tubeless there is a sealant in the tyre to seal small thorn holes etc.

Tannus inserts still use a smaller tube but are protected 360 I think. Watched a video but are they easy enough to fit by myself?

 

[PhilBaker]

Move to Tubeless. I did it with the stock Smart Sams tyres and it was relatively easy, you just have to stand on the tyres when they are flat to get them to unseat from the rims if you find they are tight. You just need to buy sealant (I've tried a few and have settled on the MuckOff one and you need to by some Tubeless Valves which I also got the MucOff ones). Had no punctures since...

 

[BrentD]

Move to Tubeless. I did it with the stock Smart Sams tyres and it was relatively easy, you just have to stand on the tyres when they are flat to get them to unseat from the rims if you find they are tight. You just need to buy sealant (I've tried a few and have settled on the MuckOff one and you need to by some Tubeless Valves which I also got the MucOff ones). Had no punctures since...

And maybe some rim tape too. Again the MucOff kind seems as good as any.

 

[Doug e+]

Move to Tubeless. I did it with the stock Smart Sams tyres and it was relatively easy, you just have to stand on the tyres when they are flat to get them to unseat from the rims if you find they are tight. You just need to buy sealant (I've tried a few and have settled on the MuckOff one and you need to by some Tubeless Valves which I also got the MucOff ones). Had no punctures since...

Thanks Phil for your reply and tips. I’ve had a couple of punctures recently and I had to stand on the tyre to release it from the rim. It’s was also hard to get the last bit of the tyre onto the rim with a little help from a tyre leaver. So I need tyre valves and sealant. Ill ask on the cube forum if my wheels are tubless ready.

 

[PhilBaker]

Good point, what are your rims?

 

[Doug e+]

And maybe some rim tape too. Again the MucOff kind seems as good as any.

Ah that’s what I was just going to ask on the cube forum if my wheels are tubeless ready ??

 

[Doug e+]

Good point, what are your rims?

To be honest I’m not sure. I’ll need to check tomorrow but it’s a 2021 cube reaction hybrid pro 625.

 

[Mikerb]

Punctures occur mostly due to either a thorn penetrating the tyre or the tyre compressing the tube against the wheel rim ( pinch puncture). going tubeless effectively eliminates both of those either because there is no tube to pinch or because the sealant does its job to fix thorn punctures. The type of puncture tubeless may not fix is a tear caused by sharp rock, although if it is small enough sealant will again fix it. If your riding territory consists areas of sharp rock the only real defence is a strong ( heavy) tyre construction. If you decide to go tubeless and your wheels are tubeless ready you just need a pair of valves and some sealant...plus access to a compressor or you buy an air tank. Going tubeless should resolve the majority of your puncture problems and at the same time give you a more compliant tyre that you can run at lower pressures for better grip and comfort.

 

[PhilBaker]

To be honest I’m not sure. I’ll need to check tomorrow but it’s a 2021 cube reaction hybrid pro 625.

Specs suggest you should be ok:-

"Wheelset: CUBE EX30, 32H, Disc, Tubeless Ready"

Reaction Hybrid Pro 625 29 E-Bike (2021)

Buy your Cube Reaction Hybrid Pro 625 29 E-Bike (2021) - Electric Mountain Bikes from Wiggle. Our price . Free worldwide delivery available.

www.wiggle.co.uk

 

[Mikerb]

To be honest I’m not sure. I’ll need to check tomorrow but it’s a 2021 cube reaction hybrid pro 625.

Yep...they are Cube EX 30 tubeless ready

 

[Doug e+]

Oh thanks guys I’ve just asked this on the cube section. So valves and sealant and I’m ready. Any preference on valves?

 

[PhilBaker]

So my recommendation if you have not done it before is:-
1) Remove tyre and tube standing on it to get it to release from the rim
2) Insert the new tubless valves. You do need to ensure these seat well (MucOff ones come with a few options for rubber grommits to ensure a tight fit. You don't want to screw the valves in super tight as you want the rubber to fit well without being totally crushed, but do do them up tight as people often find they leak at first
3) I'd then try seating the tyre without putting the sealant in. I found the Smart Sams to be a tight fit on the rim and they inflated easily
4) let the tyres down and remove the valve core (the MucOff tubeless valves come with a handle tool - if you not sure what this is, its basically unscrewing the middle of the valve and removing it leaving just the outer tube)
5) put the sealant in using the tube that comes with the MucOff Sealant bottle through the open valve. I'd put in extra as whilst its a little bit more weight you have en eMTB right so who cares ;-)
6) But the valve core back in and inflate to 40psi, then slosh the sealant around, tapping the tyre on the ground and generally splashing the sealant up the tyre walls inside the tyre
You should be good to go! The reason I do steps 3 and 4 instead of just pouring the sealant into the tyre before you fully seat it, is the Smart Sams were so tight it was a nightmare trying to get it all to seat without the sealant leaking out everywhere
Loads of good videos on Youtube will show you how and you will never look back...

 

[PhilBaker]

Oh thanks guys I’ve just asked this on the cube section. So valves and sealant and I’m ready. Any preference on valves?

I went with these in 44mm, nice colour coding of course

 

[Doug e+]

So my recommendation if you have not done it before is:-
1) Remove tyre and tube standing on it to get it to release from the rim
2) Insert the new tubless valves. You do need to ensure these seat well (MucOff ones come with a few options for rubber grommits to ensure a tight fit. You don't want to screw the valves in super tight as you want the rubber to fit well without being totally crushed, but do do them up tight as people often find they leak at first
3) I'd then try seating the tyre without putting the sealant in. I found the Smart Sams to be a tight fit on the rim and they inflated easily
4) let the tyres down and remove the valve core (the MucOff tubeless valves come with a handle tool - if you not sure what this is, its basically unscrewing the middle of the valve and removing it leaving just the outer tube)
5) put the sealant in using the tube that comes with the MucOff Sealant bottle through the open valve. I'd put in extra as whilst its a little bit more weight you have en eMTB right so who cares ;-)
6) But the valve core back in and inflate to 40psi, then slosh the sealant around, tapping the tyre on the ground and generally splashing the sealant up the tyre walls inside the tyre
You should be good to go! The reason I do steps 3 and 4 instead of just pouring the sealant into the tyre before you fully seat it, is the Smart Sams were so tight it was a nightmare trying to get it all to seat without the sealant leaking out everywhere
Loads of good videos on Youtube will show you how and you will never look back...

Wow this is awesome Phil, step by step guide is just what I need. I’m on it now to purchase valves and sealant (muck off).
Ill update once I have purchased and fitted. Hopefully this is the right way to go and hopefully less or no punctures.

Cheers Dougie

 

[PhilBaker]

And here's a video so you can get the idea:-


Start at 8 mins in inserting your MucOff Valve...

 

[Doug e+]

I went with these in 44mm, nice colour coding of course

Just ordered these ?
Is this the sealant and if yes do I get one for each tyre.

 

[PhilBaker]

Buy the bigger bottle, as you will need more than the little packets and will need to top it up from time to time

 

[Doug e+]

Buy the bigger bottle, as you will need more than the little packets and will need to top it up from time to time

Ordered the litre bottle. ?

 

[PhilBaker]

You may also want to take a look at this video if you get any trouble inflating the tyres once you have removed the tubes:

 

[Doug e+]

You may also want to take a look at this video if you get any trouble inflating the tyres once you have removed the tubes:

Cheers Phil ?

 

[Pdoz]

Doug, if you haven't already ordered the messy expensive stuff, have a good long think about what you hope to achieve then decide between tubeless of tannus.

I run both in different bikes with different priorities.I advocate trying tannus before tubeless.( probably because I tried tubeless first?)

IMHO , tannus rules for puncture protection , but tubeless rules for weight / performance.

Tubeless is messy and when things go wrong it's incredibly frustrating, you run the real risk of being stranded trailside with goop pouring out of a sliced tyre and wishing you had a spare tube plus several litres of hand wash.....and you can guarantee just enough time between random flats to become a convert.....then the sneaky leaky hits

Tannus has a dead feel when riding , a bit like running too much compression dampening, and is a pita to learn to install. But the flip side is excellent puncture protection, the ability to ride with a flat tube, and even the ability to patch a flat tube / remove the tannus to get home if you decide riding on a squirmy tannus is hard work.

Did I mention tannus is a pita to install? A previous post:

Just been out in the shed fitting tannus to sprog 3's wheel , it had a previous tubeless failure mess and busted spoke so this was a complicated install - most of the time was spent cleaning the old tubeless mess, fitting some new rim tape ( gorilla tape), and washing up the tubeless mess.

Soooo.....my ten Tannus tips:

1 warm the tannus +/- tyre - a few minutes in the Aussie sun works. This seems to help them flatten out and lose the kinks from packaging.

2 make sure everything in spotless - especially inside the tyre if it's previously been tubeless

3 LOTSA talc. Then a bit more. Both inside and outside the tyre, all over the tannus, the tube, my face.....

4 Tannus in the tyre, then fit the disc side tyre / tannus into the well. IN THE WELL. Don't let it creep up on the edge if the rim. Make sure no tannus is trapped between the tyre and rim.

5 insert tube, just enough air to prevent a pinch flat , NOT enough to be completely round. Slip the valve into the rim but leave the screw loose, slip the tube into the tannus.

6 Juggling time - start installing the outside edge , making sure to slip the tannus in UNDER THE TUBE and then that section of tyre. Working around in small bites, and ensuring the tannus does NOT get between the tyre and rim.

7 deep sigh....cross fingers.....one last push on the valve to ensure the tube is free.....another deep sigh

8 pump the tyre up until the tyre is evenly seated. Or 60 psi.....anything above 60 psi deserves a coffee / beer break and a rethink afterwards . Coffee fixes everything - leaving the tyre sitting at 60 psi worked!

9 contemplate the best way to do this trailside . I really do need to work put a way to run the handpresso auto off the bikes battery so I can have coffee trailside.

10 ask the collective - should I carry a full size spare tube so if I get a flat with tannus I can remove the tannus and go old style? Or just ride on the tannus with the flat?

 

[KennyB]

If you go tubeless, I suggest you carry a Stan's DART in case of a puncture the sealant alone can't fix. You need to user a latex sealant like Stan's, it reacts with a coating on the insert to seal the puncture. I used one on a cut in the sidewall and tyre still good.

 

[Beekeeper]

Assuming I were to go tubeless and assuming I get nothing more than a couple of thorns each year, what maintenance is required? E.g topping up, or do I need to clear out the old sealant every so often. And if I’m topping up how do you know how much to put in each time and when.
Also do you have to be careful not the have the valve at 6 o’clock each time you store your bike in case the sealant gums up the valve?

sorry for all the questions but I’m considering having a go at this when I next get some new tyres. my currents ones have seen better days and and have been punctured loads of times. The beads don’t look too healthy either due to constant removing to fix punctures.

 

[JoeBlow]

Tubeless, tubeless, tubeless. Did I mention tubeless? Best money I ever spent on upgrading my bike. With regard to the purion dispay. I bought a rubber doughnut toy from a pet shop that slips over the handle bars and lifts the display clear of the ground. I prefer turning the bike upside down when replacing the front wheel. I find it easier to present the wheel to the bike rather than the bike to the wheel, if that makes sense.

Al

 

[Pdoz]

Assuming I were to go tubeless and assuming I get nothing more than a couple of thorns each year, what maintenance is required? E.g topping up, or do I need to clear out the old sealant every so often. And if I’m topping up how do you know how much to put in each time and when.
Also do you have to be careful not the have the valve at 6 o’clock each time you store your bike in case the sealant gums up the valve?

sorry for all the questions but I’m considering having a go at this when I next get some new tyres. my currents ones have seen better days and and have been punctured loads of times. The beads don’t look too healthy either due to constant removing to fix punctures.

Top it up every 3-6 months depending on local temps. You'll know it's time when you rush out to the shed late for a group ride and both tyres are flat.

I thought leaving the valve at 12 oclock was what caused it to fill ip with crud, but that might be an Australian thing? Make sure you have spare cores.