Levo SL Gen 1 Official Levo SL Thread

p3eps said:
I thought the Garmin would measure distance and elevation based on GPS / GLONAAS data, not the Levo TCU?
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my garmin head unit always used to detect the kenevo power meter and the cadence/speed sensor in the bike .. if hes using the planet3 the power, cadence and speed sensor will be the 3rd of what hes done .. he might have another device like a watch , phone to detect the real distance and speed , even better if hes using his own cadence/speed sensor ant+ or bluettooth.
 
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p3eps said:
I started at 60/60, and am coming down in small steps to find out what I can work with.
I want to find an optimum setting that I don't need to change, so I can remove the switch from my bars. I have several routes, and want to make sure I can still do them without getting off and having to push!

Once I have it figured out, I'm going to set Eco to something like 15/15, have Trail at 35/45 (or whatever I finally decide on) and leave Turbo as 100/100.
The bike always starts in Trail, so I'd never need to change it. I could swap to Eco if I needed to conserve power at the end of a ride... and keep Turbo in the event I have something really extreme to climb!

That'll be another cable off my bars to make them tidier.
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I also thought about removing the remote because of the clean look. I discovered i use the walk assist a lot for repeating my favourite parts of very steep trails or pushing my bike upwards for some trailcare or trailbuilding. So i decided to leave it.
 
jemen said:
I also thought about removing the remote because of the clean look. I discovered i use the walk assist a lot for repeating my favourite parts of very steep trails or pushing my bike upwards for some trailcare or trailbuilding. So i decided to leave it.
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I've discovered the only bits I walk / push up, are bits too rocky to pedal up. Walk assist is useless for them, as the cranks still rotate and hit the rocks. If I wanted to bash my cranks / pedals off the rocks, I'd be as well trying to ride up it!
 
p3eps said:
I want to find an optimum setting that I don't need to change,
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i have gone the opposite way, i have 6 or 7 different presets from 10/20/30 to 50/70/90, but mostly i ride in the 40-50 range unless it's a longer ride
 
Killswitch73 said:
my garmin head unit always used to detect the kenevo power meter and the cadence/speed sensor in the bike .. if hes using the planet3 the power, cadence and speed sensor will be the 3rd of what hes done .. he might have another device like a watch , phone to detect the real distance and speed , even better if hes using his own cadence/speed sensor ant+ or bluettooth.
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My 820 definitely uses GPS for speed and distance - but then I've only set it up to see the Levo SL battery and nothing else.
I have an 830 due to arrive today, so I'll try it with cadence etc.
 
I recently got my carbon comp SL and I am pleased with it. One thing I noticed is that it came without the retaining screw, for the right chain stay protector.
Right Chain Stay.jpg


The store I purchased it from have spoken to Specialized, who are going to send one out. According to the invisiframe instructions, it should be a T125.

Hopefully it was just my build, but I thought it was worth sharing.
 
A bit of an update - got a Manitou Mezzer to replace the stock Rhythm 34. The 34 wasn't bad, but I was hankering for bit more travel and big hit capability. Plus, I am a fan of the dual positive airchamber setup after running it on my Kenevo's Lyrik for a year or so.

First run was yesterday. Damper is a bit firm, but the fork is STIFF, composed, and plush when it gets rough. Going to tweak the settings a bit for small bump, but I like it so far. Oh and it's only 80 grams heavier than the stock fork after steer was cut. I can also adjust the ride height internally from 180mm to 140mm, and I may play with that as well. Got the fork for $800 which was the kicker given it's capability
IMG_1965.jpg
!
 
Sizing query, I got some good info a few pages back but not quite there. I’m 5ft 9.5 with a 30inch inside leg. What’s the consensus on large or medium ? I’m fairly sure I’d be in a large, but would need to get the 150mm dropper swopped out to a 125. Any experiences welcome please !
 
Number crunching over a spreadsheet isn't always the best method you'll need to sit/ride on one. every bike I've had has been a M and with 125mm dropper had it in my head I'd be a M. As I said previously I sat on a M in store way too cramped so demo the L with 150mm dropper slammed down and it was spot on. im 5'8" on a good day

still procrastinating over which version, ideally a frame only as I'd change many of the components and I'd still like a slacker HA. Base alloy and work up from there but the colours are shit so its a respray or raw it as @73Steff has done.


.
 
iainc said:
Sizing query, I got some good info a few pages back but not quite there. I’m 5ft 9.5 with a 30inch inside leg. What’s the consensus on large or medium ? I’m fairly sure I’d be in a large, but would need to get the 150mm dropper swopped out to a 125. Any experiences welcome please !
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Large .. I’m 5’10 inside leg of 29in .. I’m a short arse with a long torso . My Stumpjumper expert 19 is a large and that fits me perfect . I’m always always a medium but these specialized bikes come up small . I will get a extra 10mm reach extra on the Levo SL as stumpy even though it’s a large still comes up shorter on the reach .
 
iainc said:
Sizing query, I got some good info a few pages back but not quite there. I’m 5ft 9.5 with a 30inch inside leg. What’s the consensus on large or medium ? I’m fairly sure I’d be in a large, but would need to get the 150mm dropper swopped out to a 125. Any experiences welcome please !
Click to expand...

Very similar size to you. I’ve demo’ed a medium Levo and that came up cramped, so much so that I went with my Orange. However, recently I tried a large Levo SL and it felt much better. I’ve not owned either of these though so I’d listen to the owner’s opinions first.
 
Ordered some parts ?
-xo1 eagle rainbow casette
-x01 eagle rainbow chain
-x01 r/d
-invisiframe kit
 
6ft 1 1/2" - XL.

My 3 previous Stumpjumpers have been Large.
The SL felt a little bit smaller, so I gambled with the XL. After all, it's easier to make the bike smaller than it is bigger. Glad I went bigger - it feels more stable and planted coming downhill.
I have a 170mm dropper (standard size for an XL) slammed to the bottom, and can just touch the ground. If I was 1/2" shorter, I'd probably have to change it for an 150mm dropper.
Nine out of ten times I'm dropping the post when I'm stopping anyway - and it's a good pedalling height for me.

I was on my 2017 Stumpy last weekend, and suddenly it felt a little bit small! After 10 mins on it, I didn't notice anymore.
 
TomH79 said:
Ordered some parts ?
-xo1 eagle rainbow casette
-x01 eagle rainbow chain
-x01 r/d
-invisiframe kit
Click to expand...
Get some tar remover for the bike as this gets rid of the contamination of stuff on the bike . Put it on leave it on for a couple of mins then wipe . I do this on a brand new bike so you will notice a lot of dirt when cleaned .this also helps in the adhesive of the invisiframe glide and stick better .
 
Bearing Man said:
I am sure it is the seal and it is squeaking against the inner bearing race of the right side crank bearing. You won’t get oil past the seal very easily, but if you can get the chain wheel off you can get a small pick or pin in the lip of the seal and spray a little silicone spray in there. Be very carful, the seal is thin and can be damaged.
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Yes I have noticed the same, I am on my 4th ride on the SL and it seems to happen after ten'ish miles. It sounds similar to a dry chain and I am sure it is coming from the right hand side. Like someone else said if you lock the shock out it goes away.

Anyone successfully fixed it?
 
So have had a creaking in the front of my bike for the last ride - along side the rear sqeek from the suspension.

So tonight, I stipped down the front end, and greased it up. Still doing it, so out came the forks, and the headset was disgusting. I've seen better on bikes that over 1 year old. Surface rust on the bearings, and everything - I've only ever washed it with a hosepipe, muk off and brushes, I think its just a shoddy headset. So I've cleaned it up and greased it up too - I recommend people check theirs too.
 
Still making a skeeq sound. Linkages have been greased and checked,same for shock pushings. Comes somewhere in rear. Ni saddle cause when pushing from frame, sound is still there.

Gotta keep on moving ?

IMG_20200426_101638.jpg
 
Heres the sgeek.
Fitted some slapper tape on top of that hole to prevent rubbing. Let see how it goes.
If it helps, gonna drop motor and fix that thing for good.
IMG_20200426_155157.jpg
 
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TomH79 said:
Heres the sgeek.
Fitted some slapper tape on top of that hole to prevent rubbing. Let see how it goes.
If it helps, gonna drop motor and fix that thing for good.
View attachment 29783
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Thanks from posting, I have just checked mine and I am now 99% sure it is from those three cables. Mine show no signs of chaffing but I have only ridden it a handful of times.

Like you, I was thinking about dropping the motor out and then run some fabric tape around them.
 
Can someone with a range extender share some dimensions? Length, diameter basically since it’s a cylinder . Trying to see if I can check against a particular shock

Thanks!
 
The RE cylinder is 200mm long, 74mm diameter.

Also, the cable connector fits best with the bottle cage slammed down to the lowest position which helps give a bit more room above it.
 
Bencab said:
Another solo ride today and it was warmer than usual. Poison oaks all over and had close encounters with few animals on the trails.

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Careful. Not only are ebikes illegal on MidPen Trails, they are also temporarily closed to bikes. Looks like you were on Stevens Canyon which is MidPen
 
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