What tyres? The Ultimate Tyre Thread

[Dirtnvert]

How about the good year newton. Kind of cool that they offer this tire in 3 weights and 2.4 or 2.6 and 29 or 27.5 in any of those options. Weight wise the 3 options weigh comparable to the exo+, dd and dh casings. Looks like a good pattern somewhere close to a dhr2 or dhf. Might have to get a set. Kind of ticks all the boxes. Wonder how their widths measure up? Anyone try them?

Newton

Provides abundant and surefooted traction in all conditions.

www.goodyearbike.com

 

[RodC]

When you note "dhr2" its most important that you include the casing. Exo, exo+, dd, and dh casings make all the difference. A dhr2 exo is not a "substantial dh tire". Exo's actually suck unless youre running extra psi and the terrain has little rocks and roots. The casings , as much or actually more, than the tread design apply to the type of terrain if you want to make it to the bottom.
Personally i like a full dh casing on the front with a flatter/edgier tread profile and a slightly wider rim. The sidewall is flatter and because its a dh casing sidewall its better for edging. You can push in the corners without the sketchy flex.
In the rear i like a little more rounded profile as the tire gets lent over more and a slightly flexier sidewall(a little bit , not a paper thin exo) like a dd equivalent with a tire liner and a touch narrower rim in relation to the tire size. Example would be 2.4-2.6 front tire on a 35mm inner rim dh casing and a 2.6-2.7 rear tire dd ish casing on a 32mm rim. More compliance in the rear doesnt get deflected in the rocks, roots and ruts.
The problem im finding is finding a good dh casing front tire in a 2.6. Magic Mary is all i can think of off hand.
I just put a michelin dh34 dh casing 29 x 2.4 on the front. My favorite tire thus far has been the michelin rockr2 2.35. It measures closer to a maxxis 2.45 so i thought the dh 34 2.4 would be wider like a maxxis 2.5 width. Its not. Its narrower than my 2.35 rockr2 and the same as a maxxis 2.4. That shit pisses me off. Michelin have the best rubber and sidewalls and patterns but their gaps in sizing , weights and sensible width measurements is frustrating. The dh34 is awesome in the bike park through berms and jumps. So much confidence pushing into corners without the sketchy flex. Just perfection. On super steep dirt and rock faces id like a wider profile more control based than race based . I think a 2.6 with full dh casing front is the sweet spot. A 2.8 with less casing is fine for complete control to go slow on steeps but its flexy and wallowy in the corners if youre pushing. Not very precise. Ive no interest in anything 2.8. Less than 2.5 doesnt offer enough braking traction, especially for emtb on the steeps.
Loic Bruni races on 2.4's but on those tracks i'd definitely favor more control than speed. I think we need to see more 2.6 dh casing tires.
It doesnt matter if you put max psi in the tire, its still not a substitute for a healthy sidewall and you actually be more succeptible to rock punctures in place of your previous tiresnake bites. An inflated balloon is much easier to pop kind of thing.
My dream set up would be a 2.55/2.6 rockr2 dh casing front(not made in dh casing or 2.55/2.6) and a 2.6 dh 34 bike park casing in the rear(they make a 1200g bike park casing dh34 but no 2.6). MagicX front compound on 35mm rim and gumX rear compound on a 32mm rim. Another 4 or 5 years and they may get around to it/end mega long rant

Ps
It was super fun in the park yesterday on the 2.4 dh34 and 2.6 ewild rear on the jump trails

I was thinking the opposite on casings. I mean a harder casing like a DH on the back and maybe a lighter on the front no less than DD.

IMO the heavier load is on rear tire.

 

[Swissrob]

I've been using DHRII as a winter tyre - it is good at not holding clay / mud. It's also high volume, which I like. I don't think it is a great grip for climbing and braking, as many youtube reviewers state; I actually wonder if many of the reviewers are just repeat the marketing blurb. I'm not sure I trust many youtube reviewers anymore. I've found the dhf much better on the rear for climbing and braking. I won't be buying dhrII again. Love the assegai on the front all year and dhf on the rear for the dry. Will have to find something else for the wet months on the rear. Might even go assegai rear in a harder compound; just wish they were higher volume.

So much is terrain specific, I found a newish Butcher far superior to a DHF both in 2.8 in the rear. This summer I am enjoying a 2.5 high roller on the back, good traction for braking and nice driftability with a 2.6 Assegai keeping the front on line. For someone like me trying to improve their skills at 55yo having a loose rear end (that sounds bad!) at a lower speed but controllable is helping.

 

[Dirtnvert]

I was thinking the opposite on casings. I mean a harder casing like a DH on the back and maybe a lighter on the front no less than DD.

IMO the heavier load is on rear tire.

Protection wise, yes the rear has more weight on it and the dd weiggt tire isnt as durable as a dh casing. I will run a liner in the rear tire to solve that. The reason i prefer a dd weight casing on the rear and a touch narrowee rim is because its hard to regulate your body weight on the rear compared to the front. You always have body eeight on the rear. With the flex of a dd weight tire(still relatively durable and fairly well protected with a liner) and the little extra round to the sidewall that the dlightly narrower rim creates you get a rear wheel that will be compliant through uneven terrain like off cambe roots or rocks and ruts. In the front its easier to regulate the weight on the front but when you push in the corners its very confidence inspiring when the dh sidewall, that is made flatter with the wider rim, to give a very precise feel. Minimal flex on the rear wont sketch you out. It will create a smoother ride with less deflection

 

[DrStupid]

Never tried an SS. 2.5 would be acceptable for sure and id even be ok with tire wear. Ill pay the price of wear if theyre good. I think i want deeper tread now though. Too much tech around here and i rarely go to silver star now(no need). I think id run a dhf/dhr2 2.6 dd and rear dhf/dhr2 2.6 dh front if they actually made those. That kind of size, build and traction/rolling . I think theres a 2.6 assegai but not sure if they have that in dh casing and not sure if intermediate knobs are my thing(part of the reason i havent put an ewild or wild enduro on tge front). There is a dd 2.5 dhf so thatd work for the rear but id take a 2.6 dd dhr2 or dhf preferably for the rear.The list is long for maxxis quality control issues but i would put that aside if they had one of those options..... maybe
I might be getting too picky. 1st world problems

When you say "intermediate" what are you referring to? The transition from the center to the side knobs, or knobby height? Or some other thing?

Thanks.

 

[Dirtnvert]

When you say "intermediate" what are you referring to? The transition from the center to the side knobs, or knobby height? Or some other thing?

Thanks.

The intermediate knobs would be the transition knobs between the center knobs and the side/edging knobs. I find they lessen the positive edgy feel of the edge knobs , and in some cases cause the tire to skate right past the edge knobs. I like a nice channel between the center knobs and the edge knobs with good sized supportive edge knobs. That way there is no vagueness when you lean the bike off the center knobs onto the edge knobs. It gives a definitive supportive and consistent feel to lay it on edge. Lots of tires from sll companies have taken that design from a minion. The best example is the michelin rockr2. Big supportive edge knobs and a nice empty channel between centre knobs and edge knobs. Also compare those to other tires that are similar in design and the rockr2 has slightly tighter space between edge knobs for even more support. They dig you out of a turn like no other. Occasionally in really sticky mud they can clog up but in most cases that isnt a problem, they just dig in. It could use some ramp on the center knobs to roll faster. I like the ewild with its big supportive side knobs and i like yhe ramp on the center knobs, i just think they need more , tighter spaced edge knobs especially in the ewild front(as an example)

 

[DrStupid]

Copy that and thanks. Maybe the ewild rear tire up front would suit your needs? (Not as though you need help, sounds like you know what you like Lol). The ewild rear seems to have a larger intermediate channel and more tightly spaced side knobs (though only a little tighter) than the front version.

Myself, I'm finding the ewild to be bliss, front and back in their respective places, as long as its relatively dry. I ride relatively slow technical stuff in clay and rock.

 

[Dirtnvert]

Ya i was nit picking. I like my rear ewild. If i was nit picking id opt for more sideknobs, so a bit more tightly spaced. Its a bit rounder than my rockr2 so its working well on the rear. Rockr2 2.35 is more like a 2.45 and it works well on the front. I have changed that to a dh34 2.4 and its similar and has that nice damp feel with the magicX rubber. Nice side knobs and that channel. Definitely more space between the center knobs though and some ramp to thosw knobs as well as a dh casing. Really really liking it. Just wish it was wider. Im probably going to try a dh 34 with the bikr park casing on the rear of my enduro bike

 

[Markymark]

So much is terrain specific, I found a newish Butcher far superior to a DHF both in 2.8 in the rear. This summer I am enjoying a 2.5 high roller on the back, good traction for braking and nice driftability with a 2.6 Assegai keeping the front on line. For someone like me trying to improve their skills at 55yo having a loose rear end (that sounds bad!) at a lower speed but controllable is helping.

Glad to see that there is someone else near my age (58) on here.
I'm trying to learn to corner (faster) and jump. When you are knocking on the door of 60 you tend not to be as bold.
If only MTBs were around when I was in my early teens (sighs) back then you were lucky if you had a 5 speed 'racer'.
Regards, Mark

 

[Swissrob]

Glad to see that there is someone else near my age (58) on here.
I'm trying to learn to corner (faster) and jump. When you are knocking on the door of 60 you tend not to be as bold.
If only MTBs were around when I was in my early teens (sighs) back then you were lucky if you had a 5 speed 'racer'.
Regards, Mark

A week in a bike park will get you in the air! It's worth getting someone to film you so you can see what is happening compared to the grommets on Utoob.

 

[RodC]

Glad to see that there is someone else near my age (58) on here.
I'm trying to learn to corner (faster) and jump. When you are knocking on the door of 60 you tend not to be as bold.
If only MTBs were around when I was in my early teens (sighs) back then you were lucky if you had a 5 speed 'racer'.
Regards, Mark

BMX

 

[Dirtnvert]

A week in a bike park will get you in the air! It's worth getting someone to film you so you can see what is happening compared to the grommets on Utoob.

This^^. You have a chairlift so theres no rush. Pick a green/blue jump trail with no gaps and get to know it. No air for a few laps and just work on scrubbing the lip and pumping backsides. Soon your speed will have you hitting a few jumps and then start adding more and more jumps as you have them memorized. Dont go at them. Let them come to you. Exit speed out of the berms to get the jumps can be crucial to making them. No front brake in the corners. No brakes at all if possible. Thats the great thing about emtb's. No rush. Baby steps. Do more laps and let the jumps and drops come to you. At a similar age i cant be crashing anymore. Ive shrunk my vertebrae enough?

 

[Gary]

BMX

BMX didn't come to the UK until about '82 .

 

[RodC]

BMX didn't come to the UK until about '82 .

i was 12. Had my diamond back... good memories

 

[Gary]

i was 12. Had my diamond back... good memories

Me too but on a Raleigh Super tuff burner

good memories indeed

 

[DrStupid]

1980 redline. Me in the driveway!

 

[urastus]

Schwalbe Eddy Front & Rear over 200 miles on rocky, dusty, SoCal trails, hardly any signs of wear, no punctures. Previous tubed stock set up on Turbo Levo Comp I would get pinched slow punctures every 2nd or 3rd ride. Smooth with grip for miles. Great tire. 2.4 f - 2.6 r

They look good - I'm looking for an all year rear tyre to compliment the assegai on the front. Are the 2.6 rear large volume - how do they compare to a dhf dhrII in 2.6?

 

[urastus]

1980 redline. Me in the driveway!

And high tech shin protection held up with tape!

 

[Timbo]

New Eddy Current to replace the old one. About 2000km all off road in all conditions, mainly rocky with occasional mud, grippier than a grippy thing
The old one has plenty of life left in it but has developed a blister on the sidewall, ill keep it on as long as possible, i'm

trying to resist the temptation to pop the blister.

 

[Zimmerframe]

For 27.5"
Who make for the 29" ?

View attachment 34776

What is AR and what is AV? I have the e-wild 2.6 and 2.8, but I didn't realize there was an AR version and an AV version?

It is the FRENCH !

AV = Avant - Front
AR = Arrière - Rear

Nice job on the numbers @Pascal Funk

 

[Zimmerframe]

A question for all of you with experience or brains ... I've generally changed tyres (normally from incompetence) or bikes (uhm.. probably incompetence related too) well before the tyre has even lost it's shine.

After a reasonable period of slowly increasing riding ability coinciding with a huge decrease in number of crashes .. I cursed it just over a week ago with a nasty off. Bizarrely I took a photo of the front tyre just before hand for reference.

Still not sure what happened, I think I was taking it too easy came off line slightly, hit the loose and just went down so hard and fast there was no reacting. Ended up chest/ribs into the stump, flip bounce upside down backwards into tree and logs. Unconscious, broken finger, fractured ribs .. bla bla bla .. anyway .. enough off the topic waffle ..

My question .. when is a tyre "worn" ??? .. does it loose some performance at a certain stage ? As the knobs get smaller, you'll have less mud grip and so on, but do the performance characteristics of the tyre also drop of with wear or can you run them down to 3mm and still expect reasonable dry weather performance ?

My snooze spot :

E-wild front :

 

[Gary]

when is a tyre "worn" ??? .. does it loose some performance at a certain stage ? As the knobs get smaller, you'll have less mud grip and so on, but do the performance characteristics of the tyre also drop of with wear or

A tyre wears from every single ride.
the rubber durometer also hardens over time.
a well designed tyre looses performance as soon as the knobs loose their sharp edges.
your edges are fucked on the tyre in the pic above

can you run them down to 3mm and still expect reasonable dry weather performance ?

Depends MASSIVELY on what that dry surface is and what you consider "reasonable"
Goanae at least pause for a few seconds to have a wee think before typing such dumb questions, eh?

BITD loads of DH riders would only ever buy front tyres, and swap their front tyre to the rear once the tyre knobs had lost their edges.
FWIW and probably a hangover from those days I actually enjoy a worn rear tyres lack of grip, Fronts not so much.
learning the limit of grip is key if you're going to run less grippy tyres. They need to be treated differently, weighted differently and sometimes even involves taking slightly different lines to what you'd choose running a new grippyAF compound tyre with appropriate tread patern.
the same applys if running harder compound tyres or running high pressure (I do both of these things a lot)

 

[DrStupid]

Zimmer, you must be careful. Are your dreams full of climbing or falling at your peril? If so, take heed.

Those tires look trashed to me. The siping is gone, and the knobs are a mear shadow of their former selves.

 

[Zimmerframe]

the knobs are a mear shadow of their former selves.

This sounds like a comment from the ladies of the average male EMTB riders coffee morning..

siping ? Every day I find there's so much more I don't know... ??

A bit of tyre black then .. ? ?

Thanks @Gary ... That was a reasonably... Helpful answer....

Anyone want to buy a just run in front ewild to use on the rear ?

 

[DrStupid]

Siping (rubber) - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

This John F. Sipe is quite the character.

 

[Gary]

All knobs are not created equal
Siping is when a tyre knob has a slice through it allowing the rubber to bend further in one direction. [EDIT: Which isn't strictly what happens or how siping works on motorcar tyres as described in the above Wiki] The alternating square edge knob on a DHF is a great example of this.
Cupping is when a knob is designed to "cup" dirt in a certain direction. (like the L shaped knobs on the DHF that so many other manufacturers have tried to copy but often got soooo sooooo wrong). depending on the direction of the cup this can offer greater traction, braking or cornering stability.
Ramping is when a knob has an edge cut at an angle to allow the tyre to roll (or lean over or transition) better.
Ramping can also be used to create better braking performance.

Many modern mtb tyre designs IMO rely far too much on soft rubber compound and lower pressures to attain their grip with not nearly enough thought put into the actual tread patern, knob placement and design.

 

[Dirtnvert]

Damn!! Hope youre on the mend @Zimmerframe . Didnt realize you broke things. Im "thrifty" so i probably run my tires too long. Cracks in the edge knobs are usually when i get a new one.
Ive broken multiple fingers but not at the same time. I think i caught it on the brake lever, not sure. I remember wishing for an E bidet though

 

[urastus]

A question for all of you with experience or brains ... I've generally changed tyres (normally from incompetence) or bikes (uhm.. probably incompetence related too) well before the tyre has even lost it's shine.

After a reasonable period of slowly increasing riding ability coinciding with a huge decrease in number of crashes .. I cursed it just over a week ago with a nasty off. Bizarrely I took a photo of the front tyre just before hand for reference.

Still not sure what happened, I think I was taking it too easy came off line slightly, hit the loose and just went down so hard and fast there was no reacting. Ended up chest/ribs into the stump, flip bounce upside down backwards into tree and logs. Unconscious, broken finger, fractured ribs .. bla bla bla .. anyway .. enough off the topic waffle ..

My question .. when is a tyre "worn" ??? .. does it loose some performance at a certain stage ? As the knobs get smaller, you'll have less mud grip and so on, but do the performance characteristics of the tyre also drop of with wear or can you run them down to 3mm and still expect reasonable dry weather performance ?

My snooze spot :

E-wild front :

I think it's that tree zimmer - it looks like an australian native. I think it's a youclippedus; a youclippedus properard? - they're notorious for mtb and emtb riders.

Yikes! Broken finger and mangled ribs - no laughing for you for a while, or picking your nose - how will you manage?

May you recover quickly

 

[urastus]

New Eddy Current to replace the old one. About 2000km all off road in all conditions, mainly rocky with occasional mud, grippier than a grippy thing
The old one has plenty of life left in it but has developed a blister on the sidewall, ill keep it on as long as possible, i'm trying to resist the temptation to pop the blister.

I had a similar thing happen a few years ago - it was about a cm cut that started to bulge (using tubes). I used a single patch of cloth tape that covered the area keeping the bulge in the middle of the patch. No more bulge for the life of the tyre. I would have cleaned it pretty will, and probably even pre glued with contact adhesive - it's the sort of thing I do, but I can't remember.

 

[Markymark]

I think it's that tree zimmer - it looks like an australian native. I think it's a youclippedus; a youclippedus properard? - they're notorious for mtb and emtb riders.

Yikes! Broken finger and mangled ribs - no laughing for you for a while, or picking your nose - how will you manage?

May you recover quickly

When I cracked a rib it was sneezing I feared the most.