What other 170mm + travel e-bikes are out there.

Here's another option.

E DH Rig. I could buy that as a throw a 29er send of fox 40's on the front EXT arma rear and a sent of carbon mullet hoops for some silly arse rig action.

www.electricbikerotorua.com

Husqvarna Extreme Cross 9 E-Mountain Bike

Introducing the all-new 2021 Husqvarna Extreme Cross 9, Downhill E-Mountain bike. Made for the extreme and toughest terrain! Whether it is Uphill or Downhill - thanks to strong E-Power and 200mm travel, our Extreme Cross Downhill-machines master obstacles, dirt and drops with ease. Adrenalin...
www.electricbikerotorua.com www.electricbikerotorua.com
 
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Chairman said:
Shimano though?
Click to expand...
I'll admit I would prefer bosch, and if i can find a set up that suits i'll get a bosch powered unit. But its not until you are riding side by side on a shimano powered ebike that you notice that its not quite as grunty on the climbs to a bosch. I'm not racing so its really only bragging rights with mates on the climbs. On the downs i dont see any advantage in the bosch system.
 
All I can
Plummet said:
I'll admit I would prefer bosch, and if i can find a set up that suits i'll get a bosch powered unit. But its not until you are riding side by side on a shimano powered ebike that you notice that its not quite as grunty on the climbs to a bosch. I'm not racing so its really only bragging rights with mates on the climbs. On the downs i dont see any advantage in the bosch system.
Click to expand...
Add is that I have had one battery drain ride on an ep8 and it went quite well although I personally far preferred the Bosch for a few reasons, one being sheer grunt that I did notice was missing on downhills on those occasions when you grunt out of corners. Also Bosch reliability and backup support would anecdotally appear superior at least here in NZ. On that note have just finished a ride in the redwoods and can confirm the dirt has never felt better
 
Best Ebike I’ve ever ridden.
The Cascade VPP is so dialed.
Loving Ohlins.
Bosch 750 wh race is 100% Legit.
I also have a Turbo Levo Gen 3.
I was pleasantly surprised how well the 7550 takes steep tight turns.


45BBF7F6-2F2A-4D61-90A1-1393B41E6F39.jpeg
 
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Roundbadge said:
Best Ebike I’ve ever ridden.
The Cascade VPP is so dialed.
Loving Ohlins.
Bosch race is 100% Legit.
I also have a Turbo Levo Gen 3.
I was also pleasantly surprised how well the 7550 takes steep tight turns.


View attachment 110654
Click to expand...
I really do like the look and spec of them. About the only thing I dont like I'd the leverage ratio. It uses a 230x65 for 175mm of travel. I like lower leverage ratios.

But that's a minor.

I'm really keen to here a more detailed report.

Ps I'm trying to figure out how I can import one into nz without the ridiculous freight and import charges. Its $4200 NZD to bring into nz. That takes it from almost possible to stupid o'clock money wise.
 
Plummet said:
I really do like the look and spec of them. About the only thing I dont like I'd the leverage ratio. It uses a 230x65 for 175mm of travel. I like lower leverage ratios.

But that's a minor.

I'm really keen to here a more detailed report.

Ps I'm trying to figure out how I can import one into nz without the ridiculous freight and import charges. Its $4200 NZD to bring into nz. That takes it from almost possible to stupid o'clock money wise.
Click to expand...
Bummer about the freight charges!
Ive been riding the bike in steep chunk.
it’s so fun.
It’s being ride wrapped this week.more to come
 
Plummet said:
I really do like the look and spec of them. About the only thing I dont like I'd the leverage ratio. It uses a 230x65 for 175mm of travel. I like lower leverage ratios.

But that's a minor.

I'm really keen to here a more detailed report.

Ps I'm trying to figure out how I can import one into nz without the ridiculous freight and import charges. Its $4200 NZD to bring into nz. That takes it from almost possible to stupid o'clock money wise.
Click to expand...
Yes I would also like to know a way around the prohibitive import costs. Also what is the downside of the leverage ratio. I am currently running 230 65 with 185 travel. It seems to be working pretty well although as always there is bound to be heaps of room for improvement. Dpx2 with 2nd largest bonuses reducer and quite a bit of compression wound on
 
Chairman said:
Yes I would also like to know a way around the prohibitive import costs. Also what is the downside of the leverage ratio. I am currently running 230 65 with 185 travel. It seems to be working pretty well although as always there is bound to be heaps of room for improvement. Dpx2 with 2nd largest bonuses reducer and quite a bit of compression wound on
Click to expand...

Effectively you are working the shock harder. Have to pump more pressure into it, wind on more compression and rebound. I argue that because of the extra spring and dampening you loose small bump sensitivity compared to a lower leverage ration equivalent travel bike.

I also argue that the shock (particularly airshock) will get a lot hotter sooner as its working harder to do the same job.
Doing long dh runs, 20-30 mins, might lead to the shock heading up, increasing in internal pressure and becoming harsh towards the end of the run. I experienced shock heating and getting harder at wairoa gorge. That was standard leverage ratio....

I expect that you would also need to service the shock more often.

There is an arguement that for air shocks a certain leverage ration is preferenctial as the increase shock and dampening overcomes stiction from the air shock seals.

Lastly. If you are a light dude then, increasing leverage will be similar to a heavier person riding the bike. So... light dude higher leverage ration wont be too bad. Heavy dude, high leverage ratio probably takes the shock outside its design limits.
 
Plummet said:
Effectively you are working the shock harder. Have to pump more pressure into it, wind on more compression and rebound. I argue that because of the extra spring and dampening you loose small bump sensitivity compared to a lower leverage ration equivalent travel bike.

I also argue that the shock (particularly airshock) will get a lot hotter sooner as its working harder to do the same job.
Doing long dh runs, 20-30 mins, might lead to the shock heading up, increasing in internal pressure and becoming harsh towards the end of the run. I experienced shock heating and getting harder at wairoa gorge. That was standard leverage ratio....

I expect that you would also need to service the shock more often.

There is an arguement that for air shocks a certain leverage ration is preferenctial as the increase shock and dampening overcomes stiction from the air shock seals.

Lastly. If you are a light dude then, increasing leverage will be similar to a heavier person riding the bike. So... light dude higher leverage ration wont be too bad. Heavy dude, high leverage ratio probably takes the shock outside its design limits.
Click to expand...
That all makes good sense. I am a lighter guy 70 kgs in undies. Shock was rebuilt just prior to Xmas when still running it at 160 travel and it has done a heap of work since then at 185 but I have been very pleasantly surprised how well it has held up although longest runs have only been things like western okataina and rainbow mountain along with everything the Redwoods have to offer
 
Chairman said:
That all makes good sense. I am a lighter guy 70 kgs in undies. Shock was rebuilt just prior to Xmas when still running it at 160 travel and it has done a heap of work since then at 185 but I have been very pleasantly surprised how well it has held up although longest runs have only been things like western okataina and rainbow mountain along with everything the Redwoods have to offer
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Should be all good then. Your've gone from 2.46 to 2.8 leverage ratio. I'm not sure if the curve is linear or not. But if it is that effectively is the same as a 80kg dude riding 2.46 leverage.
 
Have you checked the (THOK GRAM RC) Mullet - 180mm - 170mm rear - full carbon - 23kgs - 630 battery.
Specs Geo - you may require to overview….. Possibly giving out for potential…. How’s its overall aesthetically appeal ?….
THOK YEAH!
 
Mart-e said:
Have you checked the (THOK GRAM RC) Mullet - 180mm - 170mm rear - full carbon - 23kgs - 630 battery.
Specs Geo - you may require to overview….. Possibly giving out for potential…. How’s its overall aesthetically appeal ?….
THOK YEAH!
Click to expand...
I was Thoked at the appearance.

That's a bike that Mike Tyson should ride.
Angles seem ok. I have virtually no knowledge of Thok. Ideally I spec a bike with a bosch motor. So, its of interest, but not my perfect spec or at the top of the list.
 
Farmernz said:
Shame you didn’t see the used one that was for sale in Nz recently 15k I think.
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Nah, I would never buy used for $15k. I actually did see it before I seriously started looking. They wanted $15k excluding the battery..... So a non- going second hand e bike that you would then have to spend a nother couple of $k to get going.
 
Whyte E180 is another option.

I'll be honest i dont like the look of it and its heavy. But base model that I could adapt to what I want is $10k and fully stacked with zeb ultimate, asx and bosch race motor is $16.5k

Geo is right in the range im looking at except for seat tube angle is a bit slack.... yep its on the old school side of geo at 750°.


whytebikes.com

E-180 RSX MX Super Enduro Electric Mountain Bike

Unleash YourselfOur mid-range E-180 RSX MX is the chaos-crushing, downhill-dominating, climb-shrinking super electric mountain bike (e-MTB) for self-shuttled gravity riding, bike park play, and big mountain terrain. If having the best time doing the biggest rides in the biggest terrain is why...
whytebikes.com whytebikes.com
 
I would try an E-180.

I have an E-160, was in two minds if the weight was going to be too much but it rides like a much lighter bikes, hides the weight really well.
 
Another option is Mondraker level. 180/170mm 29".
I ride a 2021. It's heavy but feels great on chunky and steep stuff. Only 65deg HA so might not be slack enough for you but I've never felt like I need anything slacker.
Annoyingly it looks like the new versions have an integrated battery, so won't be as straight forward to swap.

I've had this a couple of years now and I'm always looking for it's replacement but nothings really ticked all the boxes yet.
 
yorkshire89 said:
Another option is Mondraker level. 180/170mm 29".
I ride a 2021. It's heavy but feels great on chunky and steep stuff. Only 65deg HA so might not be slack enough for you but I've never felt like I need anything slacker.
Annoyingly it looks like the new versions have an integrated battery, so won't be as straight forward to swap.

I've had this a couple of years now and I'm always looking for it's replacement but nothings really ticked all the boxes yet.
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65 hta is too steep. I chase a lot of steep and love the slackness of my rig. So 65hta is a deal breaker.
 
rideronthestorm said:
Sounds like a great mod. Can you share details/model about the Link you used?
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Bike is a 2020/21 Moterra 1.Pretty simple job really. Link is from an acoustic cannondale Habit. Comes with all the bearings and all up landed sub $200. I have the part number somewhere if you are keen I will dig it up. Bolts straight on although it's arguably slightly more free with a small washer installed. Using standard shock which is a dpx2 230 x 65. I have added a much larger volume reducer in the can and wound up compression about 3 clicks and that's about it. Works sweet. Very 😊
 
Thanks @Chairman, much appreciated! Great upgrade outside the box. Moterra here, so it looks like something that would work on my bike as well. Definitely interested if you wouldn't mind sharing the part#. Still running 160mm rear on mine but switched to RS coil which was an improvement for me.
 
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rideronthestorm said:
Thanks @Chairman, much appreciated! Great upgrade outside the box. Moterra 2 here, year 2021 so it looks like something that would work on my bike as well. Definitely interested if you wouldn't mind sharing the part#. Still running 160mm rear on mine but switched to RS coil which was an improvement for me.
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Here you go.
Cannondale H2 suspension link. Part no. K91069
Good luck with the mod.
 
rideronthestorm said:
Got it, thanks a lot for your help @Chairman :) Looks like this part # is still available. Can't wait to try this. Moterra for the win!
Click to expand...
Yeah my Moterra has been rock solid pretty much and has responded well to all the changes I have made. Going to mullet was a real eye opener but loving the boxxers and the Xtra 25mm travel at the rear has balanced things out nicely. I still have more plans including looking at maybe shortening the swing arm but that is still at the how the fuk to do that stage
 
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