What did you do to your EBike this week?

[skizzian]

Do you believe that the benefit you noticed came from the increase in diameter or the "floating" aspect?
Did you keep the same pads?

you need to check what the largest rotors are your forks and frame can take from the manufacturers spec's
the larger rotor gives the brake more leverage - this is the single most power gain
the floating rotors generally provide better clamping of the pads and less warp at high temperatures

I'd also add going to 2.0mm thick also helps with pad life, pad force and warping
plus changing pads on a fairly regular basis helps (so don't spend loads on the most trick pads)

 

[skizzian]

So after the new chain skip crash shennanigans
and the subsequent new noise that came from the motor chain ring area
I replaced the cassette with the Slx level 12 speed
and the OEM ethirteen alloy 53mm chainline direct mount chainring was replaced (orbea rise)
with the ethirteen Helix Core e*spec Steel 55mm chainline direct mount chainring
I had to pack out the plastic chain guide head with a couple of washers - they deformed perfectly and it was rock solid on the trail
as was the 55mm chain line - no noise in low gears and the new 'motor' noise was gone too.

 

[AlexLeigh]

After just over 600km (in not very long), fork and shock off to my local suspension tuners (Sprung in the Forest of Dean). They aren't broken or even really in need of a service, but I get all my new suspension units fettled there. They always come back so much better. My expectation is the fork - especially- has too much grease in it/tight bushings based on previous Lyriks.

Getting the shock out is pointlessly hard as it's only two bolts. But the swingarm end has vey little clearance to the underside of the top tube and it was assembled with a lot of loctite. So small allen, lots of grunting to get it loose. Then I realised if I'd dropped the other end of the shock out and cycled the linkage forward, I'd have way better access.

At least I realised that before trying to reassemble it

Need to fix some 'rock rash' from yesterdys ride that's toasted some of the invisiframe. Bearings feel super smooth and tight tho which is a relief.

 

[steve_sordy]

you need to check what the largest rotors are your forks and frame can take from the manufacturers spec's
the larger rotor gives the brake more leverage - this is the single most power gain
the floating rotors generally provide better clamping of the pads and less warp at high temperatures

I'd also add going to 2.0mm thick also helps with pad life, pad force and warping
plus changing pads on a fairly regular basis helps (so don't spend loads on the most trick pads)

I will check the max disc diameter, but the forks are Fox 38 so I expect that they will be OK. Ediit: 230mm is the max.

The discs are SRAM HS2 200mm which are 2mm thick as standard. The spokes are coated with a heat dissipating paint that is claimed reduces peak temperature by 40degC. The HS2 discs are already supposed to be very good according to reviews, so I will experiment with pads first before flashing the cash on new discs.

I used to have floating discs on one of my analogue bikes and I liked them, but the max size I had then was 180f, 160r. They were solid discs (I mean not floating) to start with and I changed to floating, solely because I thought they looked nicer! I can't recall noticing any braking benefit. The two analogue bikes I had after that, one was 180/160 and the other was 200/200. Both solid discs. I had zero concerns with braking on either bike. My current bike is only 7-8 kg heavier than those, so it can't be that causing my problem.

 

[skizzian]

I will check the max disc diameter, but the forks are Fox 38 so I expect that they will be OK. Ediit: 230mm is the max.

The discs are SRAM HS2 200mm which are 2mm thick as standard. The spokes are coated with a heat dissipating paint that is claimed reduces peak temperature by 40degC. The HS2 discs are already supposed to be very good according to reviews, so I will experiment with pads first before flashing the cash on new discs.

I used to have floating discs on one of my analogue bikes and I liked them, but the max size I had then was 180f, 160r. They were solid discs (I mean not floating) to start with and I changed to floating, solely because I thought they looked nicer! I can't recall noticing any braking benefit. The two analogue bikes I had after that, one was 180/160 and the other was 200/200. Both solid discs. I had zero concerns with braking on either bike. My current bike is only 7-8 kg heavier than those, so it can't be that causing my problem.

you likely won't feel much benefit from floating rotors if you don't ride in conditions with excessive heating
it's not just the extra 8 kilo's - the motor will increase the overall velocity - this increases the braking requirements
Changing to a larger rotor on the front will be the most guaranteed way of increasing the braking power (without swapping out brakes)
you can buy a Galfer Wave 223mm 2mm thick rotor for £39 (with the painted spokes) probably less than buying 2 pairs of pads...

 

[AlexLeigh]

Update on above. When I said there's nothing wrong with the fork and shock, it appears I was only half right! The shock has a score on the stantion. Apparently this was very likely due to an assembly issue and is 100% warrantable. Still that's going to take a week so I guess I'm going to find out how much non e bike fitness I've lost for at least 3 rides!

Forks - as expected - tight bushings, too much oil in damper side, etc.

 

[irie]

... don't spend loads on the most trick pads.

Case in point, when applied gently the Swissstop D27 RS pads are noisier (slightly graunchy sound) when compared to the standard Shimano D03S pads which are silent (with Swissstop Catalyst Pro 220mm rotors).

Will probably go back to Shimano D03S pads ...

 

[irie]

@steve_sordy

As said below, have a pair of almost new 220mm HS2's if you want to try them - can send them to you no probs.

Rail (750Wh) Post in thread 'need to replace the rear rotor on my rail 9'

Apr 23, 2025

Swissstop Catalyst Pro. We have 220's front and rear on our Rails, can't fault them.

* Tried Sram hs2 rotors, noisy, not impressed. Stashed somewhere in the garage never to see the light of day again.

• irie

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