What did you buy your ebike this week?

The Hodge said:
I'm not surprised ..looking at the pic it's probably half the weight again of your bike ..
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Big but comfortable and initially I wasn’t ready for the OE saddle. After around 400 miles I figured I probably was and the suspension dropper inspired the change back to the OE saddle. I’m very happy with the results. And I don’t really worry about the weight of the bike - it’s around 60lbs but if I lose 15lbs it will be like riding a 45lb bike! Big if, but….
 
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Gary said:
Can't say I do agree. Personally I think saddle mouted bags are an awful idea on anything other than a roadbike (but even then they're hardly ideal)
  • in direct firing line from water/mud/debris off the rear tyre
  • most larger saddle mounted bags have a high chance of rubbing the stanchion of a dropper post
  • the largest packs get in the way of pelvis/crotch clearance
  • Can limit dropper post drop (fouling/buzzing the rear tyre at full travel)
  • adds weight high up (the worst place possible)
Plus it's kinda mental running a £200 135g SLR saddle and then hanging 400g of shit from it ;)

A small frame mounted bag down by the BB out of harms way would always be the best option for me. Sadly not possible on my own FS Emtb frame.
I never ever carry a pack. I absolutely hate them. But I also hate unneeded weight added to a bike so I carry only minimal/essential spares on the bike (mounted as low and centrally as I can) with phone/keys/money in my pocket and on longer rides I just use a small lightweight runners waterbottle waist belt with a 500ml bottle and a tiny zipped pocket with just enough room for, keys, money and a small snack/multitool.
I also always dress light but appropriately for the ride/weather/conditions and effort I'm going to be using so absolutely never carry spare clothing or any other faffy stuff I'll never use.

Each of my bikes has it's own set of tools/spares specific to it and mounted to the frame so I can ride straight away without the need for any faff, forgetting or having to look for stuff.
eg. my Emtb has a Dakine hotlaps gripper bag mounted to the frame (iunfortunately due to my bike frame design/size it has to be mounted above the battery towards the front of the downtube/toptube junction)
The bag contains: 2x superlight 90g innertubes, 1x tyre patch, 1x tube patch, a small tube of vulcanising solution with a square of sandpaper, 1x really tiny folding hex key/torx set. 1x tiny chaintool, 1x10mm hex bit , 2x Co2 carts with head. a couple of zipties, a mech hanger and a quicklink. The entire pack loaded full is 600g. I mainly carry all that as I also commute on it between a 20-40 mile round trip 4 days a week.
for shorter local rides I'll often take the hotlaps bag off the bike completely and just ride with a multi tool in my pocket as the bike is nicer to ride without the added weight. and wort comes to it I need to walk home a few miles (I have miles and miles of off road trails within a 5 mile radius of my front door)

Each to their own though ;)
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Under-saddle items are fine in dry climates; I have a spare tube under my seat at all times and it rarely gets more than a bit dusty. It's never used though. I carry similar kit to you but in a bottle cage bag. I do wear a light Camelback with minimal water in it and use that for my keys, phone and a light top for mountain rides. The best way to cut weight is on your body fat (if people have any). It's easier to drop 2kg of fat than spend 1K on slightly lighter parts.
 
Kingerz said:
Under-saddle items are fine in dry climates; I have a spare tube under my seat at all times and it rarely gets more than a bit dusty. It's never used though. I carry similar kit to you but in a bottle cage bag. I do wear a light Camelback with minimal water in it and use that for my keys, phone and a light top for mountain rides. The best way to cut weight is on your body fat (if people have any). It's easier to drop 2kg of fat than spend 1K on slightly lighter parts.
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dont know if its easier but it makes a lot more sense.
 
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trx said:
Looking nice! Where did you get them from? Also I suppose they’re the same size as the original right? I wouldn’t mind putting them on top of my originals plain black
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RustyMTB said:
Something that gets my goat, I clicked on that a couple of times yesterday. Presumably linking it here generated a few looks. I watched the price change from £23 to £32 & then £51 in a few hours. Cynical.
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That's Amazon's pricing weirdness. When items don't sell, the prices drop to lure people in. Then when one sells, the price shoots up.

I buy loads of tools that way. I've had pairs of Knipex and NWS pliers for a tenner. Felo screwdrivers, loads of Unior stuff all for bargainous prices.

I bought a full Unior 1/2" drive socket set. Ratchet, extensions and a full compliment of sockets 8-32mm and it cost me about £15.
 
20230304_110455.jpg
New XT 10-51 cassette and XT chain this week.

Noticed the original Deore cassette was getting a bit 'sharky' on some of the sprockets and decided to get ahead of the game and buy a replacement so I had one for when I needed one.

Got both delivered from r2 bike for about £130. Cheapest I could find the cassette elsewhere was Merlin at £150 + £40 for the chain so not a bad price really. Delivered from Germany in 3 days too!

The plan was to run the original for a bit longer until its toast but the desire to fit it now is high.

Nice and light too.

Well, relatively speaking. About 150g less than the deore I think.

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Also bought some more Endura Windchill softshell gloves as the stitching gave up on the last set after 4 rides. Going to email Endura and see about a refund/ exchange.
 
Kingerz said:
Under-saddle items are fine in dry climates; I have a spare tube under my seat at all times and it rarely gets more than a bit dusty. It's never used though. I carry similar kit to you but in a bottle cage bag. I do wear a light Camelback with minimal water in it and use that for my keys, phone and a light top for mountain rides. The best way to cut weight is on your body fat (if people have any). It's easier to drop 2kg of fat than spend 1K on slightly lighter parts.
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I'm sure Gary ( if he was still active on the forum ) ..would be over the moon that you have responded to a post from Oct.12 2019 ..boy have you got some reading to do before your next one ..which should be with us when...March 2026?😂
 
Charger 2.1 rct damper upgrade for the 2020 Lyric.
SKF wiper seals.
Foam rings..
‘O’ rings for Debonair shaft
Fork oil and Sram butter grease.
Headset bearings.
Gave the fork a service today,
For anyone who is interested the difference between the stock seals and the replacement SKF is very noticeable. The stock seals are nearly 3 years old and the material was hard and not that pliable compared to the new SKF seals.. the foam lubrication rings were filthy black as was the oil that drained from the lowers during strip down. This is the second time I’ve serviced the fork. For the time it takes to service the fork I’m definitely going to record ride times and service as required
 
irie said:
Perhaps that's what you'd expect when comparing new with 3 year old seals?
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I know what you’re saying but it’s just my observation on my bike, it’s ridden hard 90% off road, it was an induction of how the seals have degraded and perhaps that could result in poor fork performance over that period of time
 
The EMF said:
I know what you’re saying but it’s just my observation on my bike, it’s ridden hard 90% off road, it was an induction of how the seals have degraded and perhaps that could result in poor fork performance over that period of time
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You used the old seals for 3 years?
 
jbrown15 said:
So much for the recommended 100hr servicing......lol

All kidding aside SKF seals are really good, I run them on my son's motocross bikes.
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I only ride out at weekends so hourly service intervals take a while to build up safer to say the bikes done 2700 miles
 
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