Levo Gen 3 Turbo Levo Gen3 - loose headset by design - how to solve?

carlito said:
I think you must have what Specialized calls the [A] Headset Cap. Which is missing in my config and replaced by that silly 20mm Cone. Unbe-*******-lievable !!! Is that piece moving if you turn your front wheel 90°, put fork on firm and brake with front brake - if you tried to push the bike with your hand on the headset, you feel play ????

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Mine came with the cone installed but I also got the headset cap in the parts bag that came with the bike. Did yours not come with the bag with the extra parts? It had the tubeless valves and some other small parts in it including that cap.
 
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Ou812 said:
Mine came with the cone installed but I also got the headset cap in the parts bag that came with the bike. Did yours not come with the bag with the extra parts? It had the tubeless valves and some other small parts in it including that cap.
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No, dealer assembled it. I got no extra parts. But I contacted my dealer about the matter.
 
I also noticed that most of you guys ride a carbon bike. I have the alloy one. This might also result in a difference regarding the fit of the Upper Bearing Cap into the frame ... .
 
Here’s mine. I haven’t had any issues with noise or movement in 2k km or riding.
C7E8F52F-D407-4A91-8E30-23034AFC8937.jpeg
 
I ride an SJEVO but it uses the same headset and can have the same problems.

I just over tighten the preload and it still turns freely and works well. I also pack lots of grease around it.

However, some guys in a large Evo thread have placed some tin foil around the stock bearing cup in places to sort of shim it.

GL
 
carlito said:
I also noticed that most of you guys ride a carbon bike. I have the alloy one. This might also result in a difference regarding the fit of the Upper Bearing Cap into the frame ... .
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Recently noticed the same problem with the headset on my 2022 Levo Comp Carbon. If I apply the parking brake and push the bike forward/backward, there is play in the headset. I can see the top headset cup (A) moving forward/backward, while the (H) cup does not move. Cleaned and reassembled everything - the problem persisted. Did you manage to solve the problem?
 
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Yes! But I had to glue the loose upper bearing cap into the frame. I used 2 component glue for metal (brand: pattex). Then I got also rid of the chimney spacer. I ordered genuine specialized topcap made by fsa. But even then, I had to tighten the headset topnut really hard to avoid any play. It's the worsed engineered headset I have ever seen. And nowhere, in none of reviews I have read online, this huge flaw is mentioned. Still cannot believe specialized can produce such bad quality. The adjustable headangle is marketing gimmick blinding everyone.
 
carlito said:
Yes! But I had to glue the loose upper bearing cap into the frame. I used 2 component glue for metal (brand: pattex). Then I got also rid of the chimney spacer. I ordered genuine specialized topcap made by fsa. But even then, I had to tighten the headset topnut really hard to avoid any play. It's the worsed engineered headset I have ever seen. And nowhere, in none of reviews I have read online, this huge flaw is mentioned. Still cannot believe specialized can produce such bad quality. The adjustable headangle is marketing gimmick blinding everyone.
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Ohh, that so radical... I can't tighten the topnut that much because I have SWAT on my bike installed from the factory. Also, I noticed that play comes from top bearing (D)/spacer(C). The cup (H) does not move.
 
Yeah, I know. But that's the only way you will be able to get a stable headset like a normal mtb is supposed to have. I had these issues for 1 year. The loose cup was the main cause. There is no other mtb on the market with such a gimmick. This explains why.
 
In mine, I was suffering a little with this, I decided to clean everything and put the headset cup without grease, everything dry and clean, and apparently it resolved it, and without any noise.
Mine is Carbon.
The most interesting thing is that I had a 2021, also a G3 but in a smaller size (S3) and on it I used the cup with +1º, and it never showed any play, I never had to tighten it too much, especially because it comes with the swat tool, only on the current one which is bigger (S4) , and I use it with the 0º cup, I noticed this looseness that happens little by little with use.
 
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Maybe this specific issue is linked to the aluminum frame. I don't know. People with the carbon frame don't seem to notice it in the way I did. Anyway, I paid 7,4K € for it, while causing a lot of frustration.
 
if there is a play in a headset, means stem moved up? or did you compress spacers (or plastic cap ?)

it happened to me recently few times (carbon frame, after 8 months, last week was with a bit harder riding), i had A LOT of cracking noises, i cleaned headsets and assembled again, second time i tried only tightening it a bit/removing any play if there was (i didn't feel anything) and it helped with crackling sounds as well.
Do you use stock stem? with bolts tigthen to 7-8Nm ? did you use assembly paste or at least remove grease from headtube-stem joint ?

all parts can easily fall apart if not squezed/tighten. that's normal, i think every part works like a wedge (has chamfered edges), like standard ZS headsets.
 
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The cup and the frame being the same material might explain cumbersome behavior.
 
rzr said:
if there is a play in a headset, means stem moved up? or did you compress spacers (or plastic cap ?)

it happened to me recently few times, i had a lot of cracking noises, i cleaned headsets and assembled again, second time i tried only tightening it a bit/removing any play if there was (i didn't feel anything) and it helped with crackling sounds as well.
Do you use stock stem? with bolts tigthen to 7-8Nm ? did you use assembly paste or at least remove grease from headtube-stem joint ?
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I use cyclone aluminum grease. The stem had nothing to do with it in my case. I have a race face stem, not standard. No matter the stem, the headset wobbled like hell.
 
I’ve just resolved my headset creak that has developed over recent months.

Zero degree bearing cup and standard style spacers and I use the OneUp steerer tool so have a threaded fork.

Solved the creak with plenty of grease, and I mean lots of grease. I use Rockshox Marine grease, it’s super thick and stays in place for a long time.

Creak gone.
 
Apologies for the thread resurrection!
I can't see anything matching my concerns so I thought I'd post my own pictures and observations.
I'm running a 2023 carbon Levo with the standard non offset cup and I've noticed a gap between the cup and frame and also between the top cap and cup.
I think the photos are pretty obvious.
Is this normal? I've only done 90km on it so far so not a big test and I can't feel any wobble etc.
I did strip it down and it all looks ok, except that the cup does wobble before eventually tightening down as you tighten the stem down.
Any thoughts?
Cheers

IMG_0260.jpg IMG_0264.jpg
 
rzr said:
0* headset
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Looks like you're still using the headset spacers that come with the bike. They're carbon or some kind of composite. I was told they move around and are the cause for alot of the creaking noises. You can clearly see in your pic they aren't sat flush with each other. You could buy a 15mm spacer like I did and I've not had any creaking since.
 
HampshireSam said:
Looks like you're still using the headset spacers that come with the bike. They're carbon or some kind of composite. I was told they move around and are the cause for alot of the creaking noises. You can clearly see in your pic they aren't sat flush with each other. You could buy a 15mm spacer like I did and I've not had any creaking since.
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yep, but they just do the job, i'm not concerned at the moment.
 
hi there from germany...
how i can remove this cap with inside tool to get the handlbar higer . Or install a normal standart ahead cap.

next question.. i buyed wheel from dt swiss with centerlock disc with integrated magnet the sensor doesnt react to the magnet
Screenshot (64).png
 
wolf77 said:
hi there from germany...
how i can remove this cap with inside tool to get the handlbar higer . Or install a normal standart ahead cap.

next question.. i buyed wheel from dt swiss with centerlock disc with integrated magnet the sensor doesnt react to the magnetView attachment 159834
Click to expand...

The Swat tool comes loose from the bottom. You’ll need to install a star nut if you want to get rid of it.

No idea with the magnet, I’m guessing it’s too far away from the sensor to pick up the signal.

IMG_6771.png
 
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