Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[JayX2A]

The XR5s are okay, but not great. I ran some Michelin wild enduros, which were good. Got a new Hunt wheelset recently (great), with schwable magic mary / noby nic, also good.

FYI on upgrades:
- I picked up a 2021/22 Lyric on eBay for about £350 and sold the gold RL for £190 - so a cheap(ish) upgrade. I'll pick up the flashy HSC/LSC damper next time I'm in an EU country (damn you Brexit). Never rode the Gold fork so can't comment on how good/bad it is.
- The stock saddle is awful (unless your arse is steel).
- The TRP brakes will stop you fine, feel could be better but certainly tolerable.
- Stock rear shock I didn't much like, replaced with an inexpensive RS coil (eBay again) but very much a matter of taste.
- The drivetrain is perfectly ok, if a bit heavy.
- The dropper also fine, even though the lever is a bit crappy.

You'll work out what you do/don't like, but feel good about the price you got - I paid £2k more than you to pick it up in Feb last year!

Enjoy

Thank you!

Few bits I have from my old bike being swapped Rovel carbon wheels, OneUp dropper (luckily in the fat size that the exe uses lol), one up bars, Deore cassette (as the wheels have shimano microspline). Saddle will be coming off old bike.

Hopefully sale of bits and prices will eventually pay for the upgraded suspension at some point!

The only downside is that I will currently have to remove the battery for charging. Seen a few posts on other sites saying it’s not ideal and they wouldn’t want to be doing it all the time, but needs must!

Random question, but with the battery extender can you tell the bike to use that power first or will it always go battery first, then range extender?

 

[Julie_X1]

The stock wheels on the 9.5 are heavy. One of the “best bang for your buck” upgrades, especially if you’re going to change tires.

EDIT: Oops, I see you have Roval carbon wheels you’re going to put on the bike. Nice.

 

[MikeP]

The only downside is that I will currently have to remove the battery for charging. Seen a few posts on other sites saying it’s not ideal and they wouldn’t want to be doing it all the time, but needs must!

Random question, but with the battery extender can you tell the bike to use that power first or will it always go battery first, then range extender?

Getting the battery in/out is easy enough, and it's probably a good way of forcing a regular clean of the battery cover. I wouldn't worry about it, after a few rides you'll be like an F1 pit crew (ish).

I don't have a range extender, but I think the bike always uses that battery first. I've not had a range problem with the standard battery on my local rides (30-40KM, mostly eco/mid setting) or lapping the fun sections at Swinley for a few hours (mostly mid/max setting). If I was planning a long/full day ride, or >3 hours at a bike park, I would start to think about range I guess.

 

[JayX2A]

Getting the battery in/out is easy enough, and it's probably a good way of forcing a regular clean of the battery cover. I wouldn't worry about it, after a few rides you'll be like an F1 pit crew (ish).

I don't have a range extender, but I think the bike always uses that battery first. I've not had a range problem with the standard battery on my local rides (30-40KM, mostly eco/mid setting) or lapping the fun sections at Swinley for a few hours (mostly mid/max setting). If I was planning a long/full day ride, or >3 hours at a bike park, I would start to think about range I guess.

Range looks perfect to me. It might actually last for all my midweek short rides and then have a charge for weekend longer ones.

Do you happen to know what size head the screws are and torque they require? Might just buy a tool to keep with the bike so I am not looking for right one every time!!

 

[Integralnz]

He said it would be £15 plus postage, what country are you from?

Thanks for the reply, I have found someone local (NZ) to print one

 

[JayX2A]

Bike arriving today, just the waiting now! Already have my tools ready to swap the dropper and then change the wheels.

I’m 100% certified rubbish with gears. When switching from 11-51 cassette to 10-51 cassette how easy is it to dial in? Might just get my mechanic to do it!!

 

[MikeP]

Do you happen to know what size head the screws are and torque they require? Might just buy a tool to keep with the bike so I am not looking for right one every time!!

Somewhere earlier in this thread is a link to the Ex-e service manual, for all your bolt size and torque settings. Worth downloading. I got a multi tool that fits in the steerer tube, which is very neat, but does rattle a bit over big lumps.

 

[woody65]

Thanks for the reply, I have found someone local (NZ) to print one

No problem I think the postage would be expensive

 

[JayX2A]

Are people running high or low? My current bike has a BB of 34.4. EXE has 34.1 in high and 33.4 in low. I do get the odd strike on the old bike. Thinking high is a safer bet?

Not sure what crank length I have on old bike though.

 

[gmoss]

I moved to high position after numerous strikes on trails I am very familiar with. Strikes are way down and will be even moreso once I go 160 front.

 

[JayX2A]

The cable for the screen/remote also seems really long. I can push it back through the housing but wondering if take screen off you can tidy it up a bit?

 

[Xinto]

What tyres are you running on your EXE? Mine arrives Tuesday and reviews on the XR5 seemed a very mixed bag.

Will give them a try first but will look at options. Mainly hardpack with roots and the mud that then comes in the UK!

Would like something not to draggy but nice grip for flowing trails. I am neither an aggressive or super brave rider so doesn’t have to be the super grip of all tyres!!

I used those XR5 for over a year and got along with them.
This summer I switched to Kryptotals in enduro casing and soft rubber.
The difference is like night and day. Kryptotals roll as well as the XR5 but the grip is insane when you need it.
No turning back.

 

[JayX2A]

Bike currently in the kitchen messing with few bits. Bars are on but lost dropper post cable trying to feed new one through lol.

Luckily with screen and battery out it’s a nice easy route!

Next is cable management. They are all an ok length but with the dropper brake and remote cable all going down the right side I need to give it a tidy.

 

[Mark C]

Getting the battery in/out is easy enough, and it's probably a good way of forcing a regular clean of the battery cover. I wouldn't worry about it, after a few rides you'll be like an F1 pit crew (ish).

I don't have a range extender, but I think the bike always uses that battery first. I've not had a range problem with the standard battery on my local rides (30-40KM, mostly eco/mid setting) or lapping the fun sections at Swinley for a few hours (mostly mid/max setting). If I was planning a long/full day ride, or >3 hours at a bike park, I would start to think about range I guess.

I have the range extender. That gets used up first then a slight pause as it switches to the main battery (usually on a steep hill).

 

[JayX2A]

My 9.5 has an alarmingly big gap at the headset. I took off the stem and spacers etc and I can’t see any fix. The bearing does not sit far enough in the frame and the cover is not deep enough to cover the gap.

 

[JayX2A]

Long time reader, first time poster.

Picked up my 9.5 EXe a couple of weeks ago. So far I'm enjoying it. Had a couple of interesting things happen so far. Mostly putting them down for potential buyers to look out for or be aware of.

Firstly, when the LBS went to put it together, they found that the rear rim was leaking air at the weld, when going Tubeless.
They pulled another wheel off some other stock and had the same issue. May pay to get that checked if you're planning on running tubeless on the stock wheelset but haven't set that up yet. It also came with a Sunrace cassette. How do I found out if it is microsplined Shimano hub or regular HG?

Riding the bike, I have found small stones get stuck in the chainguide and rub against the chain. Anyone found this happen to them or found a solution to prevent it? Was also looking at the 5DEV cranks and it says that they're not compatible with the e13 chain guide. Does anyone know why? Or if its worth keeping it on the bike?

I have a bit of a gap between bearing and headset cap. Is this normal or does it need pressed in more? View attachment 113585

So far I have found the dropper post quite good, but the lever gets stuck open sometimes, so was thinking of switching to the Wolftooth remote. On the site I wasn't sure which one was right for the dropper. Any tips?

Thanks!

This is what my bike has arrived like. I can't see any fix and the bearings are as far in the frame as they can be. Its like the cover hasnt been designed to be long enough!

 

[njatherton]

My 9.5 has an alarmingly big gap at the headset. I took off the stem and spacers etc and I can’t see any fix. The bearing does not sit far enough in the frame and the cover is not deep enough to cover the gap.

Search earlier posts for a list of headsets that fit properly.

 

[JayX2A]

Search earlier posts for a list of headsets that fit properly.

So had a search and see that some use the Industry 9 one.

I have had a search and think if i just wanted the top I would need this one? Integral IS41 or IS42?

Industry Nine iRiX Headset IS Top

iRiX is a composite of “Iris” the Greek goddess and personification of the rainbow, and the Roman numeral IX. We feel this name embodies the core DNA of Industry Nine. iRiX accompanies our A35 and A318 stems bringing riders top of the line, fully customizable cockpit upgrades. iRiX bearing cups...

brink.uk

 

[ragetty]

Bike arriving today, just the waiting now! Already have my tools ready to swap the dropper and then change the wheels.

I’m 100% certified rubbish with gears. When switching from 11-51 cassette to 10-51 cassette how easy is it to dial in? Might just get my mechanic to do it!!

That change of gearing in itself will require no adjustment - only a big step change in the granny gears would cause an issue. The problem lies instead in where the new rear axle places the cassette (right/left) compared to the OE setup - in an ideal world there should be no change here either, but ymmv.

 

[ragetty]

The only downside is that I will currently have to remove the battery for charging. Seen a few posts on other sites saying it’s not ideal and they wouldn’t want to be doing it all the time, but needs must!

My LBS originally tried to dissuade me from buying/using a 2nd full battery, on the basis that something might get damaged by removing/inserting too often.

I see it this way - the frame has been designed with a removable battery, and Trek doesn‘t limit the number of in/out operations, so if something fails = warranty issue.

 

[JayX2A]

Sorted out the cabling to a tidy enough state. Hoping to get the headset gap sorted over weekend and my local mechanic is currently giving the carbon rims a service so they will be ready next week.

 

[Johnny Javelin]

My LBS originally tired to dissuade me from buying using a 2nd full battery, on the basis that something might get damaged by removing/inserting too often.

I see the it this way - the frame has been designed with a removable battery, and Trek doesn‘t limit the number of in/out operations, so if something fails = warranty issue.

I was going to buy a range extender but the manager at my LBS persuaded me to get a extra full battery. He rides a EXe and carried a full battery.
For me it was a good decision. I've done some long rides with plenty of climbing and I would have struggled with a range extender. Swapping batteries mid ride is easy and takes less than 10 mins.
I was concerned about the weight of carrying a full battery but can now say its not bad. I have an Osprey Raptor backpack and the battery fits nice and securely in one of the internal pockets.
On trail centre rides I leave the spare battery in the car and change before I go out for a 2nd or 3rd loop.

 

[JayX2A]

Headset gap sorted now thanks to a hope top headset.

Going to cut the steerer down slightly, shorten the rear brake hose this week and that’s the little niggles sorted!

One up dropper fitted, XT shifter and Shimano cassette fitted and carbon rims on. Was cursing when I lost the dropper cable in the frame but turns out it’s really easy to fit!

 

[JayX2A]

Silly question, I know the seat post is 34.9 so does that mean I need a 34.9 seat post clamp or does the clamp size refer to the entire diameter of the seat post?

Actually think the regular fuel is a 39.7, so maybe that’s it?!

 

[Mteam]

Silly question, I know the seat post is 34.9 so does that mean I need a 34.9 seat post clamp or does the clamp size refer to the entire diameter of the seat post?

Actually think the regular fuel is a 39.7, so maybe that’s it?!

The 34.9 refers to the seat post diameter, you want the seat tube clamp diameter which is much larger, I can't remember the exact dimension but it's detailed in the service manual I think.

 

[JayX2A]

The 34.9 refers to the seat post diameter, you want the seat tube clamp diameter which is much larger, I can't remember the exact dimension but it's detailed in the service manual I think.

Yep found it - 39.7 if anyone is looking!

 

[KC10ENG]

So Ive been chasing a creak on my bike for the last few rides. So I started by lubing and torquing all of the main pivot and shock linkage. I torqued everything in sequence and was proud and optimistic to hopefully quiet my bike down. NO. Then I came across a thread about lubing your seat post. Torqued that. NO. Still squeaks.
Today do more squeak research. Find another thread about the two motor mount bolts which should be torqued to 20nm. I come home get the torque wrench out and lo and behold I get a 1/4 turn on the front bolt and an 1/8 maybe a little more on the aft one. I’m praying for a squeak free bike on my next ride.

 

[woody65]

I’ve got 9.8 with code brakes, just fitted some purple galfer pads but they seem too thick and rub against the discs anyone had this before?

 

[ohiomoto]

So Ive been chasing a creak on my bike for the last few rides. So I started by lubing and torquing all of the main pivot and shock linkage. I torqued everything in sequence and was proud and optimistic to hopefully quiet my bike down. NO. Then I came across a thread about lubing your seat post. Torqued that. NO. Still squeaks.
Today do more squeak research. Find another thread about the two motor mount bolts which should be torqued to 20nm. I come home get the torque wrench out and lo and behold I get a 1/4 turn on the front bolt and an 1/8 maybe a little more on the aft one. I’m praying for a squeak free bike on my next ride.

You might want to check the chainring if the motor mount bolts don't fix it. Check out the thread below.

Fuel EXe - near new trek EXe with loose cranks creaking.

i have been working on riding off the seat. today a creak that sort of started earlier this week ramped up. when i got back to my RV i checked the crank bolts and both were loose. i’ve seen on the mega thread issues with preparation of these bikes especially bearing and other moving parts poorly...

www.emtbforums.com

 

[DugT]

So Ive been chasing a creak on my bike for the last few rides. So I started by lubing and torquing all of the main pivot and shock linkage. I torqued everything in sequence and was proud and optimistic to hopefully quiet my bike down. NO. Then I came across a thread about lubing your seat post. Torqued that. NO. Still squeaks.
Today do more squeak research. Find another thread about the two motor mount bolts which should be torqued to 20nm. I come home get the torque wrench out and lo and behold I get a 1/4 turn on the front bolt and an 1/8 maybe a little more on the aft one. I’m praying for a squeak free bike on my next ride.

Hopefully your problem is solved. If it still squeaks, try hosing off the bike. It worked for me.