Sorry, I don’t speak french.
Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
end of march for the range extenders according to trek - but it wouldnt surprise me if they are late again.
Google translate
: Hello, to compare the autonomy of the sl and the fuel exe, it would be necessary to configure identical assistance and power. For the maximum power it is necessary to take into account the difference 240/300w.
120 w is 50% on the sl and 40% on the trek
For assistance, the 2 motors provide x200. But the Specialized app goes from 0-100% and Trek from 0-200%.
I think 40% assist on the trek is 20% on the sl.
Are you okay with that ?
Emailsucks98
Well-known member
I do think the range comparisons are completely inaccurate and misleading though.
Actual range is completely dependent on rider weight, trail surface and assistance level. Saturday (below) I killed my EXe battery in 2900', but that was climbing in snow with full-power eBikes. They all finished with >50% battery. On other rides I've gotten 3800'+ and finished with battery left. That's on a mullet with DD casing minions and 185lb rider.
Different motors will be more/less efficient at different assist levels. The low reduction ratio of the TQ is probably what gives it such a natural feel, and could give it much better durability. It would figure this also means the TQ motor is most efficient in Eco/Trail. People put the TQ in trail/boost to keep up with higher-torque motors and it comes at the cost of efficiency.
@Salespunk That blue looks so good!
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Yep, I can roast the battery in 2000-2200ft vertical (8 miles) in boost on steep, damp trails (rider weight 205lbs, bike weight 44 lbs) or milk out 3000-3500ft in ECO/trail on less steep trails. Similar range as my Rail w/625, so not complaining here. Still planning to get range extender as I have 2 batteries for Rail for bigger ride days
Yup, you would be right. What a good thing that we can share information from multiple threads and rider feedback so that people in the market for a new bike can make an educated purchase. Bikes are not cheap. Sharing information just helps people make the best decision with their hard earned money.
playboater15
Member
Hey, a friend told me that an update is coming for the app/bike to run 27.5" rear wheel without messing up the speed sensor. I don't know if there would be any other issues with the app, power output, etc if I do run a 27.5" rear before this... Does anyone know if this update is coming, and what issues I might encounter running a smaller wheel now? Thanks.
The motor will cut out at a slightly lower speed (like 0.5mph lower) if you put a smaller wheel in now.
rockymountaindude
Member
You have non-carbon cranks.
How can you tell? EDIT: I see it now too. Thanks for pointing it out! Its a 300$ difference, so yeah, they'll need to fix that.
Bit annoying as I specifically asked this question when I picked it up as I read about it happening. Just called the store and they are going to order the correct cranks but there may be a bit of a wait to get them.
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JP-NZ
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
I can answer that, the alloy ones have the two indentations on each crank. The E13 carbon ones are completely flat
If you check the Trek website under Fuel EXE and look at the 9.8XT you'll see the difference in cranks. A LOT of people who purchased 9.8's got alloy cranks and store credit when they asked as E13 ran out of stock of Carbon
Yeah my store was actually able to order the carbon ones so they’ll be replacing them! Its kind of lame though, that they do not point it out. I don’t mind a variation on similar parts, but with these bigger difference they should clearly communicate it. Makes me wonder if I need to check all the parts on my 9.8xt.
Jack of All Trails
Member
I purchased an exe 9.7 in Nov 22. It was good for a week or two and then started creaking from the BB when under stress - sprinting, out of the saddle tech climbs etc. I have had it back to the shop 3 times. Lock ring has been set to 50nm, all pivots / linkages cleaned and lubed, motor bolts removed, greased and replaced. Each time, it rides fine for around 20mins, and then the creaking starts. Is there anything else that I could try to solve this issue? I love the bike, have 3 other Treks, but the creaking is chronic, really distracting, loud and there seems to be few answers. Runs a 160mm fox factory fork, and AXS Eagle. Any help appreciated.
Frankyspec
Member
Maybe it’s coming from the bearings of the hub or wheel?
Emailsucks98
Well-known member
Could you swap the wheelset out with another 12spd boost bike? Have you checked the cassette, greased the hub splines?
Mine was creaky when new, but has been silent the last ~25 rides. The quietest bike I’ve owned in years.
Swingset
Active member
Battery screws and check the preload on the headset. Grasping a bit here.
JP-NZ
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Different bike I know but the same annoying noise. On my Rail I could have sworn it was the Bosch motor and/or BB creaking, had it into the shop 3 times.
Turned out it was the bearing within the seat stay on the drive side. Removed and re-seated the bearings in square and that killed the noise.
Creaks on carbon frames can often carry sound from other areas of the bike. Good Luck!
playboater15
Member
Can anyone please tell me what the magnet that screws to the rear hub is called, and is it a generic spare or something specific for the bike? Thanks!
Speed sensor magnet, it's semi generic. You can buy a specific trek/tq magnet but others will also work. Ridiculously priced spares below
UNKNOWN TQ 6-Bolt Speed Sensor Magnet 3-Pack
UNKNOWN TQ 6-Bolt Speed Sensor Magnet 3-Pack BLACK £49.99
Or you can just glue any strong magnet in place.
playboater15
Member
Thank you!
Jack of All Trails
Member
Thank you, much appreciated, I'll try the bearings.
Jack of All Trails
Member
Yes, I do, I'll give that a go! thanks
thaiduong649
Member
I have my bike in the shop to get this same problem looked at along with a 2nd broken remote, will let you know if they resolved it (Torpedo7 in NZ)
2nd time it's been in the shop, it has had the computer replaced, broken remote and the motor rumble when soft pedalling.
Nice bike but definitely version 1.0 issues, also doesn't help that replacement parts seem to be held in Australia.
The Reverend
Member
Hey Jack, I know precisely what you mean.
My 9.8 started doing the same and I had it back and forth between me and the Trek store trying to solve it.
They'd "fix" it, torque to spec and it'd be ok at the shop but as soon as I got on the trail it started again. Sounded like a farm gate.
The store I bought it from recommended I take it to another local store as a technician there has some experience with this.
So have your store talk to Lachlan at Trek Springvale in VIC.
They solved it on mine and it's completely silent. They can advise your store on what to do perhaps.
Let us know how you get on.
mitea
Member
Can you share here what they did so we can all benefit from it.
The Reverend
Member
I don't know the specifics but they explained that they;
removed the motor, cranks and chainring, cleaned and regreased everything and super tightened everything back up.
The rear axle was also tight as when I got it back.
There may be more details I'm sure but that's what they told me.
The torque spec they might be using is higher than the stated bulletin updates.
All I know is, it no longer creaks thankfully.
Swingset
Active member
The torque specs in the manual appear to be just suggestions when you watch the guys at the dealer sling wrenches.
Emailsucks98
Well-known member
I've said it before, but I completely tore my bike apart hunting down creak. Because it's an eBike and thanks to forums, I assumed it was the TQ motor or lockring. It was neither.
It wasn't rocket science- no lube on the seatpost, headset, cables were too long, some bolts were loose and many were over-tightened. Motor mount bolts loosed up after a few rides. Aftermarket Chris King hub had a known issue. Grease, anti-sieze/friction paste in all the appropriate spots, torque wrench. It really is amazingly quiet now. TQ motor with liquid grease in the king hub is super stealthy.
I didn't buy mine locally, so I don't want to throw the trek store under the bus. But it's worth considering, if your bike wasn't assembled correctly in the first place, will the same mechanic know how to identify & fix their own mistakes?
ZillaG
Member
I took the plunge and got a 9.7 Pennyflake, and changed the shifter+derailleur to a SRAM GX AXS, keeping the rest of the drivetrain original. It works really well. The eBike is a game changer. It lets me ride after a few days off the bike without killing myself. It saves the energy on climbs so you can go fast on the descents. On the hills (not mountains) around me, I just leave it on minimum assist 100% of the time, and it just feels like a light bike. I use 35% of the battery on a 8.5mi/400' elevation.
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