STEPS E8000 Motor Service
- Thread starter SmokeyBear
- Start date
The factors for me not replacing any crank seals were:
Availability, as in couldn't just go on Amazon and get a next day delivery of them like I did with the bearing(s). My bearing failed 1 day I was fixing it the next morning/afternoon and back riding it.
Also my repair was a bit of a minimum effort job. The unit is at ~22,000 miles I don't realistically expect it to last much more until something else fails so I really just wanted a minimum repair effort. I didn't even bother cleaning the old grease up or anything just replaced the bearing and chucked some new grease at the gears. I had ordered and had available the left hand bearing but the existing one felt good and I didn't have a bearing extractor on hand so again just left it be and returned the unused bearing to Amazon! - Had either of these been true I would have replaced it but hey....
When I did the repair I didn't pay any sort of attention to the seals so no clue what condition they're actually in, a month or so of riding since I did it and so far so good, be interesting how far this unit can go?!
I know some guys like to do preventative maintenance but I honestly do absolutely nothing but use and abuse the thing, I don't wash it, I run the chain and cassette (I only replace the 4 smallest gears) into the ground together (the chain stretches so much the cogs end up transformed with the teeth sharpened to a fine point and one of the jokey wheels just turns turns into a disc!), wait until the brakes become metal on metal, tyres are bald/no longer hold pressure etc...
It's a carbon frame bike and everything is replaceable so aside from a few stone chips (frames protected by mud currently) can be made to look new again! I guess eventually when this E8000 fails I'll do a complete replacement of it or upgrade it to the EP8 or whatever, not really looking for more ultimate power but I'd take more range in ECO mode assist levels and/or increased reliability....
Thanks. What about replacing the springless seal with a spring seal?Bottom bracket seal, on the engine housing, chainring side, 35x44x4mm (double-lip axle seal (unleaded). PLN242048 Polini Oil Seals used in Variomatic injection on the Yamaha T-max 500. Available in motorcycle shops.
Bottom bracket seal, in the motor housing, 25x32x4 mm nitrile rubber rotary shaft oil seal. VC Style shaft seal, springless design (garterless)
Is there any downside to that?
Should I expect more friction/heat/wear? I don't energy loss in a seal matters for an ebike.
Is the extra friction going to wear the axle over time (combined with some sand grit?)
fdsteve
New Member
Sharing my E8000 bearing replacement story - hope it helps someone!
My E8000 motor started making bad bearing noises. I found this thread and the very helpful PDF, watched the YouTube vid, then jumped right in. I purchased all bearings.... pulled the motor apart... then kind of lost momentum. The motor sat in a box, in pieces, for a year until I finally got motivated enough to finish the job.
I thought the job went fairly smoothly. I ended up replacing just the one bearing that was clearly bad - it was rusty, water-damaged, and rough. The others still seemed fine. The biggest challenge was actually a broken thrust shim, which was hard to source. I eventually got one from a very helpful local motor repair guy, along with the specialized grease.
After reassembling and reinstalling the motor, I powered it on... and to my dismay got the dreaded E010 error and beeping as soon as the display powered up.
I had slightly pinched the eTube cable to the display during install, so I hoped it could be this simple. I considered buying a new cable, but after consideration, since the display still turned on, I assumed the cable was okay. I checked and wiggled all the connections... but still E010.
Measured battery voltage which was fine (36V), so I reluctantly opened the motor. The only connector I had unplugged was the main one between the case halves. I found it wasn’t fully seated - it clicked in a bit more when pressed firmly. Reassembled everything... but still E010.
At this point I considered giving up and calling a pro. But I decided to open it one more time. This time I removed all the gears and the torque sensor. On close inspection, I noticed the torque sensor ribbon cables were loose in the connectors - the connector clamps were both in the “up” (unlocked) position.
I never intentionally undid those clamps, but I guess I must have somehow bumped them?
I made sure the the ribbons were fully inserted and locked the clamps down properly.
Reassembled the motor again... and this time... it worked!
TLDR: If you get E010 error on powerup after bearing replacement, check that the torque sensor ribbon connectors are locked down. In fact, I’d recommend checking this before reassembling the motor the first time
My E8000 motor started making bad bearing noises. I found this thread and the very helpful PDF, watched the YouTube vid, then jumped right in. I purchased all bearings.... pulled the motor apart... then kind of lost momentum. The motor sat in a box, in pieces, for a year until I finally got motivated enough to finish the job.
I thought the job went fairly smoothly. I ended up replacing just the one bearing that was clearly bad - it was rusty, water-damaged, and rough. The others still seemed fine. The biggest challenge was actually a broken thrust shim, which was hard to source. I eventually got one from a very helpful local motor repair guy, along with the specialized grease.
After reassembling and reinstalling the motor, I powered it on... and to my dismay got the dreaded E010 error and beeping as soon as the display powered up.
I had slightly pinched the eTube cable to the display during install, so I hoped it could be this simple. I considered buying a new cable, but after consideration, since the display still turned on, I assumed the cable was okay. I checked and wiggled all the connections... but still E010.
Measured battery voltage which was fine (36V), so I reluctantly opened the motor. The only connector I had unplugged was the main one between the case halves. I found it wasn’t fully seated - it clicked in a bit more when pressed firmly. Reassembled everything... but still E010.
At this point I considered giving up and calling a pro. But I decided to open it one more time. This time I removed all the gears and the torque sensor. On close inspection, I noticed the torque sensor ribbon cables were loose in the connectors - the connector clamps were both in the “up” (unlocked) position.
I never intentionally undid those clamps, but I guess I must have somehow bumped them?
I made sure the the ribbons were fully inserted and locked the clamps down properly.
Reassembled the motor again... and this time... it worked!
TLDR: If you get E010 error on powerup after bearing replacement, check that the torque sensor ribbon connectors are locked down. In fact, I’d recommend checking this before reassembling the motor the first time
I also broke the magnet. I used heat-shrink sleeve with resin to secure the two broken parts in place, and the motor is working just fine! Unfortunately, I don’t have any photos
Hi all.
I have a few questions. Is E010 error regarding torque sensor mechanical issue or electrical?
There are many riders who achieved 20000 + km but few of them have ridden there bikes on enduro/all mouintan/dh tracks where there is more force applied to the main shaft and shaft bearings.
My question is if I would change my shaft bearing regullary ( every 2000-3000 km) so there is no radial movement in the main shaft, would this eliminate torque sensor problems?
I have a few questions. Is E010 error regarding torque sensor mechanical issue or electrical?
There are many riders who achieved 20000 + km but few of them have ridden there bikes on enduro/all mouintan/dh tracks where there is more force applied to the main shaft and shaft bearings.
My question is if I would change my shaft bearing regullary ( every 2000-3000 km) so there is no radial movement in the main shaft, would this eliminate torque sensor problems?
Need to find out what the full error code is as E010 is only the short code. Once you have the full code get in touch with the guys at www.E-MotorRepairs.co.uk and see what they can do for you.
BLGPIL
New Member
J'ai également cassé l'aimant annulaire en quatre morceaux, mais dans mon cas, cela s'est produit lors de l'utilisation de l'extracteur de roulement.
Sur ma version de moteur, le capteur de couple était collé en place, de sorte que le roulement était très proche de l'aimant.
Au début, je pensais que le moteur était irréparable, mais ensuite j'ai trouvé votre message et j'ai suivi vos conseils.
J'ai recollé l'aimant avec une colle époxy bi-composante, mais comme je n'ai trouvé aucune marque d'orientation dessus, je l'ai réinstallé au hasard.
Après avoir tout remonté, j'ai obtenu une erreur E010 au démarrage, qui a disparu après le redémarrage.
Depuis, le vélo semble bien fonctionner, hormis un léger à-coup au démarrage.
BLGPIL
New Member
Certains membres ont demandé comment remonter les roulements sans presse. Voici ma méthode : j’utilise simplement un étau. Et pour les pièces comme le vilebrequin, plus long et creux, j’utilise une tige filetée avec des tubes de diamètres et de longueurs différents.
BLGPIL
New Member
Un grand merci à tous les membres — et plus particulièrement à Dave pour sa vidéo et ses conseils d'expert, ainsi qu'à S13, Spiff, Stringberg et Cream.
Grâce à leurs conseils, je me suis lancé, j'ai acheté le kit de roulements et j'ai ouvert mon E8000 pour remplacer les roulements.
Grâce à leurs conseils, je me suis lancé, j'ai acheté le kit de roulements et j'ai ouvert mon E8000 pour remplacer les roulements.
BLGPIL
New Member
Hello,
I’m looking for the ring magnet from the torque sensor of a Shimano E8000 motor.
Any help or spare part would be greatly appreciated and could save my motor.
Thank you in advance for your support!
I’m looking for the ring magnet from the torque sensor of a Shimano E8000 motor.
Any help or spare part would be greatly appreciated and could save my motor.
Thank you in advance for your support!
BLGPIL
New Member
Hi everyone,
Just a quick follow-up — I’m still looking for the torque sensor ring magnet for a Shimano E8000 motor.
If anyone has this part, a dead motor to salvage it from, or even a lead on where I could find one, it would be incredibly helpful and might actually save my motor.
Many thanks in advance for any info or help!
Just a quick follow-up — I’m still looking for the torque sensor ring magnet for a Shimano E8000 motor.
If anyone has this part, a dead motor to salvage it from, or even a lead on where I could find one, it would be incredibly helpful and might actually save my motor.
Many thanks in advance for any info or help!
Well my (2nd) E8000 may finally be done having repaired it twice before with the main bearing been replaced first and then one of the crank bearing failing and replaced...
But now it seems it's not a bearing failure but the teeth on whatever the below cog is have worn so much they have failed. @ ~26,000 miles (14,558 indicated due to running minimum wheel size in st unlocker).
Road it back with assist off when I felt the assist starting to judder so only a few teeth have come off but the rest of them are worn out anyways...tis toast.
Anyone got a spare?
But now it seems it's not a bearing failure but the teeth on whatever the below cog is have worn so much they have failed. @ ~26,000 miles (14,558 indicated due to running minimum wheel size in st unlocker).
Road it back with assist off when I felt the assist starting to judder so only a few teeth have come off but the rest of them are worn out anyways...tis toast.
Anyone got a spare?
franciscoasismm
Poundland GPT
Bueno, mi (segundo) E8000 finalmente puede haber terminado, después de haberlo reparado dos veces anteriormente: primero se reemplazó el cojinete principal y luego falló y se reemplazó uno de los cojinetes del cigüeñal...
Pero ahora parece que no se trata de una falla en el rodamiento, sino que los dientes del engranaje inferior se han desgastado tanto que se han roto. Aproximadamente a las 26,000 millas (14,558 indicadas debido a que se usa el tamaño mínimo de rueda en el desbloqueador ST).
Lo conduje de regreso con la asistencia desactivada cuando sentí que la asistencia comenzaba a vibrar, así que solo se han salido unos pocos dientes, pero el resto están desgastados de todos modos... está inservible.
¿Alguien tiene uno de repuesto?
View attachment 181152
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Thanks I'll certainly consider it if I fail to locate just the part but would love to get this drive unit over 30k....
franciscoasismm
Poundland GPT
my transmission unit exceed 45,000 km (actual mileage). I'd also love for my transmission unit to exceed 30,000 km (ODO) (54,000 km actual mileage).
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If you in the uk the guys at www.E-MotorRepairs.co.uk can fix it for you.
Looks like my 26,000 miles E8000 will live on. Used/Dead/parts E8000s are pretty rare in the UK EP8s everywhere...guess maybe the ebike repair shops hoard then. I tried a few local bike shops thinking they'd have some dead ones sat on shelves but they all basically said they have absolutely nothing to do with Shimano motors or ebikes in general. I think given availability of new and used EP8s at much cheaper prices than E8000s converting to an EP8 is probably the better bet over a new E8000.
But anyways a week looking on ebay and facebook a used E8000 turned up....apparently working. The logical thing was probably to just use the used one but keeping my mileage rolling seemed more amusing + don't have to get another emax license.
The ebay used one looked a bit ropey externally however internally happened to be mint condition (looked brand new) so do wonder if it actually worked or not (I couldn't be bothered plugging it in to find out).
Spent ages cleaning all the crap out of my E8000 swapped in the two intermediate/shafts gears (and a shim that had worn out/spit)...remembered what an absolute %%%% to get them to go in.....resorted to a hammer as previously.
Chucked it all back together....it works.....only rode a few meters as it's raining. But looks good. + Now depending on whatever fails next there's the possibility I'll already have spares to fix or swap bits back into the other unit assuming it works.
Prior to cleaning it all out and the swap....the donor and the 26k miles.
But anyways a week looking on ebay and facebook a used E8000 turned up....apparently working. The logical thing was probably to just use the used one but keeping my mileage rolling seemed more amusing + don't have to get another emax license.
The ebay used one looked a bit ropey externally however internally happened to be mint condition (looked brand new) so do wonder if it actually worked or not (I couldn't be bothered plugging it in to find out).
Spent ages cleaning all the crap out of my E8000 swapped in the two intermediate/shafts gears (and a shim that had worn out/spit)...remembered what an absolute %%%% to get them to go in.....resorted to a hammer as previously
.Chucked it all back together....it works.....only rode a few meters as it's raining. But looks good. + Now depending on whatever fails next there's the possibility I'll already have spares to fix or swap bits back into the other unit assuming it works.
Prior to cleaning it all out and the swap....the donor and the 26k miles.
