SRAM HS2 rotor or wheel hub .

[Pazman]

I have week old Canyon strive on CFR ltd , I've done 50 miles on it this week since getting it , ride is amazing apart from annoying from brake rub.
Today I tried to fix the issue , with the bike upside down and spinning the front wheel I can see the issue is a wrapped rotor or so I thought , after changing 2 new 200mm SRAM HS2 rotors every one had the same issue ,so that 3 in total as the bike came with a one fitted .
What's the chances of 3 warped SRAM HS2 rotors ? Could the hub on a new when be off some how ?
All 3 rotors when spun look to be warping out about 3mm .

 

[Mikerb]

seems unlikely.....6 bolt or centrelock? maybe they are not sitting on the hub properly or the wheel is not true.

 

[Pazman]

seems unlikely.....6 bolt or centrelock? maybe they are not sitting on the hub properly or the wheel is not true.

6 bolt , the hub surface looks to have no obstructions for the rotor to not sit well on it .
The wheel looks true when look at the tyre when it's spinning , I was thinking maybe some pair of the hub is off ? Not sure what to do next as rotors cannot be the issue

 

[irie]

If it really is 3mm that IS a lot!

Loosen the caliper and after spinning the wheel pull the brake lever. Then while still holding the brake lever tighten the caliper bolts enough to hold the caliper in place, and spin wheel again to check still no rub.

If that doesn't work then move the caliper by hand while spinning the wheel to find a point where the rotor doesn't rub on the pads. Then tighten while the wheel is still spinning. And retest.

 

[Pazman]

If it really is 3mm that IS a lot!

Loosen the caliper and after spinning the wheel pull the brake lever. Then while still holding the brake lever tighten the caliper bolts enough to hold the caliper in place, and spin wheel again to check still no rub.

If that doesn't work then move the caliper by hand while spinning the wheel to find a point where the rotor doesn't rub on the pads. Then tighten while the wheel is still spinning. And retest.

Yeah done all that pal , that way would work if the rotor would spin straight , the caliper could be laser level in the centre but the rotor will still touch one pad then the other at the other end of the rotor when it spins around .
But with light shining on it and spinning the wheel you can see it move about 3mm in a full time of the rotor

 

[St4nley]

but the rotor will still touch one pad then the other at the other end

Sounds like the piston’s are not pushing the pads equally, need to centre the pads, this could be tricky as you can’t see them from the top on the Mavens, just a suggestion

 

[Pazman]

but the rotor will still touch one pad then the other at the other end

Sounds like the piston’s are not pushing the pads equally, need to centre the pads, this could be tricky as you can’t see them from the top on the Mavens, just a suggestion

The pistons are fine , I removed the caliper and taped a pencil to the forks so the tip is close to the rotor , spin the wheel and I can see the rotor warping to and from the pencil .

 

[Pazman]

Thing about it a have a spare wheel I can use , I'll put one of the rotors on it and fit it to the bike , if it still does god knows if not it was the new wheel that came on my conyon

 

[irie]

Thing about it a have a spare wheel I can use , I'll put one of the rotors on it and fit it to the bike , if it still does god knows if not it was the new wheel that came on my conyon

Before you put the rotor on the spare wheel put the rotor on a dead flat *clean* (kitchen?) surface and slowly rotate it to ensure that the rotor is dead flat. I have a dead flat sheet of plate glass in the garage that I always use to check rotors before fitting them.

 

[Pazman]

Before you put the rotor on the spare wheel put the rotor on a dead flat *clean* (kitchen?) surface and slowly rotate it to ensure that the rotor is dead flat. I have a dead flat sheet of plate glass in the garage that I always use to check rotors before fitting them.

Yeah did that , try fitted the slate wheel with a one of the rotors previously tested and it spins true with no contact to the pads at all
So the new wheel hub is out of true somehow.
Call the conyon tomorrow to see how will rectify the issue

 

[Mikerb]

I know you said the hub surface the rotor sits on looks flat but I would still suspect a raised section or a little imperfection there rather than the hub itself being out of true. If the hub was not square it would make the wheel wobble as well as the rotor and you said the wheel runs true.
Try usng a short steel ruler to test the surface on the hub that the rotor sits to see if you can spot a high spot?

 

[Pazman]

I know you said the hub surface the rotor sits on looks flat but I would still suspect a raised section or a little imperfection there rather than the hub itself being out of true. If the hub was not square it would make the wheel wobble as well as the rotor and you said the wheel runs true.
Try usng a short steel ruler to test the surface on the hub that the rotor sits to see if you can spot a high spot?

Yes I think there is an issue where the rotor sits on the hub , nothing visible .
The hub could be out and the when would have been built and trued like that .
It been in the conton service centre today and they have inspected it and ordered a new wheel

 

[Jersey Skier]

As suggested above. Test all the rotors on a truly flat surface. Glass or whatever. I highly doubt they are off 3mm. A mm looks likes like a mile when your playing with the limited space between the pads.

 

[irie]

As suggested above. Test all the rotors on a truly flat surface. Glass or whatever. I highly doubt they are off 3mm. A mm looks likes like a mile when your playing with the limited space between the pads.

Agree. IIRC the Shimano D03S pads I just changed on my wife's Trek Rail are ~1.5mm backing plate and ~2.5mm pad thickness = ~4mm. So 3mm is absolutely crazy ...

 

[Downhillr]

Yeah done all that pal , that way would work if the rotor would spin straight , the caliper could be laser level in the centre but the rotor will still touch one pad then the other at the other end of the rotor when it spins around .
But with light shining on it and spinning the wheel you can see it move about 3mm in a full time of the rotor

Both my son and I recently switched to the SRAM Maven brakes from our Codes.
We were running the HS2 rotors (220F, 200R) already and have not had any issues with Code or Maven, I have I-9 hubs, he has DT Swiss. Simple way to check rotor true is place rotor on piece if plate glass, if its out of true it should be visible.

 

[Downhillr]

Whoops, sorry I didn't catch the glass already being mentioned, does sound like some kind of hub issue.

 

[Ian986]

I think HS2 disc are rubbish mine wharpped on first ride should have know was not a good sign when bike shop had to straighten when fitting.

Tried to get changed under warranty because I bought online from Europe because then was shortage of parts sram made it very difficult. I am not a sram hater as every other componant is sram just the discs are made of money Metal

Here is video of my HS2

 

[Downhillr]

I think HS2 disc are rubbish mine wharpped on first ride should have know was not a good sign when bike shop had to straighten when fitting.

Tried to get changed under warranty because I bought online from Europe because then was shortage of parts sram made it very difficult. I am not a sram hater as every other componant is sram just the discs are made of money Metal

Here is video of my HS2

Interesting, neither I or my son have had issues with this rotor, me at 200 lbs on SC Bullit while he's about 170 lbs riding an SC Nomad, both were using HS2 with Code brake, now running new Maven brake and metallic pads, same rotors.

 

[Ian986]

I am running code RSC brake. 220mm front 200 on rear

I still have the the HS2 disc as was not going to change rear as well as that is fine

I changed to a Magura front disc and have not had any problems since

 

[Pazman]

Both my son and I recently switched to the SRAM Maven brakes from our Codes.
We were running the HS2 rotors (220F, 200R) already and have not had any issues with Code or Maven, I have I-9 hubs, he has DT Swiss. Simple way to check rotor true is place rotor on piece if plate glass, if its out of true it should be visible.

The issue has been sorted.The issue was the wheel hub

 

[Downhillr]

The issue has been sorted.The issue was the wheel hub

Wow, kind of that “one in a million” things! Glad you've got it solved… go ride, have fun!