The big one is a Mosfet, here’s what you need to check. Be careful not to do any shorts in the process as you can easily destroy the bms by making a short by mistake, when taking measurements. Remember it’s a powered circuit you are working on!
Yes, I could do that (I think I already pointed out in one of my previous posting on this forum), but from your description, yours is most likely locked. Also, pack you're having is using LG MH1 cells which are crap, especially after a few years. I would never use LG in any of my builds and if you plan on replacing the cells, I suggest not using LG (MH1, MJ1, MG1). A better replacement would be Samsung 35E and you'll get 504Wh instead of 460Wh. Molicel M35A is also a very good cell but more expensive than Samsung.
Perfect! Thanks for the answers! Gonna order some good cells for this puppy! And probably send the BMS to you! Can I test first if the BMS starts working again once hooked up to new cells? Or do you say don't bother it will not work?
You can try it, of course. Just bridge those 2 points before removing the BMS from the pack. And remove the bridge once it's installed (all connections to the pack).
well that is too late now, I already removed all the bms wires without bridging it...
That was actually my question...Many thanks for the geat support! The SFC fuse really is defective, but it was a bit tricky because it apparently still allows a leakage current and shows a resistance of 69 ohms. The mosfet's all seem to be intact. I’ll try to replace the fuse without removing the bms board from the battery pack. This week Lidl has a good DIY soldering kit on special offer
A SFC fuse has 3 terminals (usually). There is fuse itself, and the 3rd terminal is the heater (which has 10-80ohm depending on the fuse type). Guess what you measured is the heater resistance. It would be tricky to remove the fuse from the board without removing the BMS board. I'm not saying it's not doable, just that it needs some experience and some tools. In any case, you can also replace with a standard slow blow 15A fuse that you can solder over burned SFC. Also check the charging Mosfet for shorts (the big one near SFC).Many thanks for the geat support! The SFC fuse really is defective, but it was a bit tricky because it apparently still allows a leakage current and shows a resistance of 69 ohms. The mosfet's all seem to be intact. I’ll try to replace the fuse without removing the bms board from the battery pack. This week Lidl has a good DIY soldering kit on special offer
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006852196694.html
Is that the same as the battery in the Gen1 Levo and Kenevo SL?
In what way? Gen1 Levo and Kenevo SL have different batteries. If you asked if SL batteries can also be unlocked, yes, they can. As pretty much any Specialized battery...don't know about the ones for Levo 4 platform.
My battery died the other day an Specialized confirmed it too, so I opened it an did found moisture. I did dried it and check everything, I did disconnected the battery cells, now it does nothing, how can I unlock it? (The 100 and 50% led was on and locked in that position, thats why I disconnected the cells)
Hello,can you help me to fix my Kenevo M1 battery? The battery is still good but cannot use because water ingress. 3 red led non stop blinking with beep sound. I'm from Malaysia and don't know what to do. Please help me.
More like a bypass. Really, if you want to properly repair a battery you won't do this. Unless it's temporary, for testing purposes.
