thanks for the reply, I'm drawn to the RSC due to the ease of adjustment. Are the hoses and fittings compatible between the R's and RSC's@Shinn - it’s really easy to pull a new rear brake cable through the SL frame using the barb connector. Much easier than having to do a full bleed if you disconnect the hose.
While you’re at it I suggest switching from SRAM to a better performing brand. I’m very happy with the Shimano SLX M7100 4 piston brakeset and 20O/180mm F/R rotors,. More power and better modulation.
Ha right. There is what looks like a grub screw but smaller than Any thing I’ve seen before. Tried a 2mm Allen key and way too big.Is there a screw under the chain stay that locks in the cable sleeve in either end of the entry/exit hole?
Yeah, they’re a good idea but pain in the ass if you constantly play around with your bike. I yanked mine out to “save weight”. Also after hearing about cable sleeve rattle I figured I kill two birds at once.Ha right. There is what looks like a grub screw but smaller than Any thing I’ve seen before. Tried a 2mm Allen key and way too big.
thanks. I’ll see if I can find a smaller Allen key.
You’ve removed the internal guides completely and binned? Any cable rattle without them?Yeah, they’re a good idea but pain in the ass if you constantly play around with your bike. I yanked mine out to “save weight”. Also after hearing about cable sleeve rattle I figured I kill two birds at once.
I think I saved 50gs, huge difference to performance, so poppy now?
Mines carbon and if I can’t get at the bearing with the guide in the way I’m on the verge of binning them. Struggled yesterday so gave up still I’ve had a think how to get round it. My bearing extractor just won’t get at the bearing because the guide is blocking access. Bit of a pain.If its alloy there aren't any cable guides in side the swingarm. You should be able to gain enough slack without too much trouble just by pulling Hose and cable through a bit. They are a bit tight in there. If you end up pulling the gear cable out (as I did to replace) just fiddle the old gear inner through then use that to guide the outer.
Apparently the way is to get a tandem gear cable and threat it through both the old outer and the new. Push/ pull it through.I know this will not help you now, but next time you rerouting the cables through the frame you might want to use your old cable to pull new cable in using some kind of a barb connector, it makes this process of replacing cables/hoses so much easier ... I hope you get this sorted asap ...
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