I have had this where the motor shuts off for 5 minutes while it and or battery cools before bike will power on. When this happens bike shuts off more than twice in 25 miles. but when its more than twice draining a full battery, you know its time to replace.
Did you get your battery replaced under the recall?
Mine is the 720 battery, and those are pushed out to September (at least).
Yes, this unfortunately is absolutely true and I completely agree.
FWIW, my buddy got the new 900wh battery for his Spectral:ON... and he is still getting random shut offs! So whatever the problem is, Canyon hasn't addressed it with the new batteries.
As written before - these random shut offs are mostly related to cabling issues between the components (e.g. between battery and drive unit) and not the components itself...
and my engine was failing, and being replaced under warranty again. So who knows what will happen when I can ride it again. been in shop 2 of the 14 months ive owned it
Great info, thank you.
Has your connector pin changed the color as well ?
Mine look like carbon not metal. But if bike shuts off 5 times, cleaning with rubbing alcohol will reduce it to 2 times
So the battery and motor have thermal protection, and they both are connected via the motherboard in the battery. So if the motor has to much draw, it will overheat the battery, and visa versa. You can pinpoint which one is failing because the leds blink on battery when its a battery thermal failure, which dirty contacts can cause. So you are only screwing with half the problem. Now all that is inside the motor, and if you split the cases, you will brick the motor. So you can stop thinking about going down the road your on.
Please use the latest version 5.4.4 of the Windows based E-Tube-Project-Professional software (see here) and create a so called service report via the lower left button in the "MAINTENANCE" view and ideally post this PDF document here to get some overview of the drive unit (and connected components).
I have another laptop where is that newest E-Tube and with this I test rewrite firmware. I don't get that report but the error check function passes fine (No internal failures, Torque CAN be detected, Cadence CAN be detected and light works). Motor is uninstalled so there is no any other components but battery. Tested with my E-FAT's display and speed sensor with jumped straight wire to motor. (In my bike is about same age EP800 motor so components must be compatible and bike is fully working so components are fine).
Thanks for this additional information - however, as written before, please create and post the requested service report!
Nothing can be done, its faulty electronics in the battery from Shimano. Its just a terrible design from people with no honor. The problem is intermittent which makes it difficult to pin down. My best guess after 9000 miles and 1,300,000' of elevation in 2 years, is as follows. for the EP801. The Rosenburger connecting causes excessive intermittent resistance which throws the battery into a protection mode it thinks its being overdrawn. So these bikes have two different thermal protection sensors. One in the battery, and one in the motor. And one effects the other, so its possible to trip both on any given ride. Cleaning the terminal where the rosenburger cable attaches to the motor definitely helps but its temporary. Im on my 3rd motor 4rth Rosenburger cable, and second battery chasing this problem. Id list myself as a top rate mechanic but im limited to reporting since this was all done under warranty repairs and a battery recall. With all new components, the bike still shuts off, last rde yesterday it shut off 4 times, and battery showed the error code top led and bottom led lit each time. The last 4 rides it worked perfect for the full battery discharge. Before that shutting off twice a battery cycle. Usually when you get past the 2 cycles it goes downhill from there, and once your in the 3+ shutdowns you will start tripping the motor thermal protection which takes 5 minutes or so to cool before the bike will power on. If bike does not turn on instantly after either shut down, pull rosenburger cable and look for codes on battery. If they exist, press power button with rosenburger cable off, This restarts battery and often clears the code so the bike will start up again, provided its not the motor. anytime past 2 shutdowns a cycle is also a sign the rosenburger cable needs to be replaced. we sold all our friends these rigs so 7 in total. Most make it about 600 miles before they get the intermittent shut downs which slowly get worse, o matter what is done. Until cable is replaced. may not help you and your EP800 issues. But I hate shimano now and will use sram when possible. I bought an Amflow 1900 miles, and its been twice the fun and bullet proof, charge and ride, charge and ride. It just works. shimano sucks
You are absolutely correct regarding the newer DU-EP801 drive unit ("generation 2") of your bike (see also e.g. this German forum post of a colleague of us with some pictures of a YT bike with DU-EP801)!
Yes understood, buddy rides the EP800, but still think the battery electronics must have a similar pattern, because shimano bikes seem to shut off quite often
Yes, that is true, but mostly the real culprit in such situations on a Shimano STePS system ist the cabling harness between the drive unit and the battery or the contacts of the battery, cabling harness or drive unit. Only in very rare cases the battery or the drive unit itself is the problem. However, mostly bikeshops replace drive unit and battery first and then at the end realize that the thing "in between" is causing the issue...
Think about this, the electronics in the motor and battery are the one commonality in both Steps systems that have identical issues.
