Rear derailleur issues 2019 Levo Expert (SRAM X1)

[Munsen Weegie]

I've got a 2019 Levo Expert and am currently suffering from poor shifting performance both up and down the gears (SRAM X1 OEM derailleur). I've recently changed the rear cassette and chain, and I've also had the shifting cable replaced. After replacing the cable, cassette and chain, shifting did temporarily improve, but its now reverted to double shifting or not shifting at all. I've adjusted the tensioner on the shifter, but that seems to make things worse.

I cant see any major physical damage other than a few chips on the mech. Overall the bike has done 1200 miles.

What should I try next other than replacing the entire derailleur?

Many thanks in advance

 

[Levo-Lon]

Did you replace the cable ,I mean yourself.
If you did ,check that you have routed it precisely.
It should run inside mec after the cable wheel.
If you missed that and run the cable like a normal mec you will have all you describe.

Pic would help.
Also correct set up is essential

 

[Darryl]

Have you checked your mech hanger? A slightly bent, or twisted, mech hanger will cause these problems.

 

[Munsen Weegie]

The LBS changed the cable for me. I did have to straighten the mech hanger slightly.

 

[Levo-Lon]

Well it looks in very poor condition to me.

Are these before pics?

The cable furrel ,bit that goes into the mech looks frayed where the outer cable goes into it?
Any frayed ,rusted or kink will do all the things you describe.
Everything needs to be clean and free moving
Pic of my xc bike cable, perfect alignment and clean

 

[Munsen Weegie]

There's no rust on the components and the bike is well used and maintained, doing around 120 miles per week during lockdown. The chain is dry/wet lubed after every ride depending on the weather and I rotate 2 chains on a weekly basis. It's very dusty & dry where I ride at the moment.

@Darryl I think I will get a new cage and fly wheels. Thanks for the tip

 

[KennyB]

I think Levo-Lon is spot on there and I think the reason for it is an excess of outer coming from the chain stay. I also notice an excess of cable inner from the mech clamp which suggests initiall setup not quite right. I think i would:

1. Replace the inner cable (probably kinked from that bend at the ferrule) - to save damaging the core of the outer, do it by cutting inner at the mech, freeing and cutting at the shifter. Pull inner from the mech end and bin it.
2. Trim the damaged outer. Pull/ push excess outer into and through the chain stay if you can to reduce the curve into the mech or trim a bit more if you can't. Fit ferrule (old looks ok).
3. Fit new cable trim to about 15mm from mech and fit new end cap (should come with cable). Don't lube the cable, it is unecessary and can damage the core.
4. Most importantly use the best quality cable cutters (e.g. Park) to cut the inner, outer and crimp the end cap.

 

[Munsen Weegie]

I think I found the issue. LBS didnt fit the replacement cable properly

 

[Paul Mac]

It may be the camera angle, but also the jockey wheels look too close to the cassette.
With the bike it 1st gear (biggest cog) the top jockey wheel should be about 15mm away from the 1st gear cog.
If it is too close or far away for that matter adjust the b screw to move the derailleur up or down.

 

[Munsen Weegie]

Going cable free. I bit the bullet and ordered the SRAM AXS x01. This derailleur was plagued with poor shifting since I purchased the bike and has had 3 cables since new.

AXS should arrive on Tuesday

 

[fitlikemike]

I think Levo-Lon is spot on there and I think the reason for it is an excess of outer coming from the chain stay. I also notice an excess of cable inner from the mech clamp which suggests initiall setup not quite right. I think i would:

1. Replace the inner cable (probably kinked from that bend at the ferrule) - to save damaging the core of the outer, do it by cutting inner at the mech, freeing and cutting at the shifter. Pull inner from the mech end and bin it.
2. Trim the damaged outer. Pull/ push excess outer into and through the chain stay if you can to reduce the curve into the mech or trim a bit more if you can't. Fit ferrule (old looks ok).
3. Fit new cable trim to about 15mm from mech and fit new end cap (should come with cable). Don't lube the cable, it is unecessary and can damage the core.
4. Most importantly use the best quality cable cutters (e.g. Park) to cut the inner, outer and crimp the end cap.

Kenny,
I plan to replace my rear mech cable Levo'19 - can I simply snip the inner cable and pull it out from the outer then reroute the new cable through the outer sheath without touching the outer cable sheath?
I mean does the outer go all the way from the shifter to the mech?
Cheers
Mike

 

[KennyB]

Kenny,
I plan to replace my rear mech cable Levo'19 - can I simply snip the inner cable and pull it out from the outer then reroute the new cable through the outer sheath without touching the outer cable sheath?
I mean does the outer go all the way from the shifter to the mech?
Cheers
Mike

Yes, outer is one piece. Try and cut the inner as cleanly as possible to avoid damage to the liner of the outer.

 

[steve_sordy]

I know that @Munsen Weegie has decided to go AXS, but his mech looks twisted in the pic. The jockey wheels are not in line with each other and the lower mech arm looks bent towards the cassette. On my very first 12-speed, I discovered the importance of mech hanger alignment and after three trips to the LBS I bought the relevant tool. Last week, I suddenly had dodgy shifting after looping out on a steep climb and thought it was hanger misalignment from a severe knock to the mech. It wasn't; it was a bent lower mech arm and the jockey wheels were 10-15 deg out of alignment. Some careful twisting by hand sorted it out.