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Peddle strikes!

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Bojko

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Hi all, fairly new to emtb just brought cube stereo hybrid one77 and just keep getting constant peddle strikes! Messed about adjusting suspension/tyre psi etc, is there anything anyone else has done to combat this problem, read online it’s fairly low bb but just wondering what parts etc people have used thanks in advance -Jack
 
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We live near the South Downs in West Sussex. Our 2022 alloy Trek Rail stock cranks have Bosch CX Gen4 motors with 165mm cranks and used to get too many pedal strikes. Fitted 155mm cranks which solved the problem. Miranda Delta cranks on Amazon are cheap and work fine, but be sure to get them with self extracting bolts which makes taking them on and off really easy.

You can pay a lot of money for fancy cranks but stiffer cranks transmit more load into the motor than cheaper cranks that can bend. In normal use both go round and round and work fine, but (imo) I'd rather have a bent crank than a damaged motor.

Amazon UK: Miranda Mis17 Unisex Adult E Bike Fit Alloy Cranks Delta Style E Bike Cranks Delta - Black, 155mm

Edit: Cheap enough to keep a spare set in the garage. Could probably have gone 150mm.
 
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irie said:
We live near the South Downs in West Sussex. Our 2022 alloy Trek Rail stock cranks have Bosch CX Gen4 motors with 165mm cranks and used to get too many pedal strikes. Fitted 155mm cranks which solved the problem. Miranda Delta cranks on Amazon are cheap and work fine, but be sure to get them with self extracting bolts which makes taking them on and off really easy.

You can pay a lot of money for fancy cranks but stiffer cranks transmit more load into the motor than cheaper cranks that can bend. In normal use both go round and round and work fine, but (imo) I'd rather have a bent crank than a damaged motor.

Amazon UK: Miranda Mis17 Unisex Adult E Bike Fit Alloy Cranks Delta Style E Bike Cranks Delta - Black, 155mm

Cheap enough to keep a spare set in the garage ...
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Ahh thanks for the reply really helpful as I’m clueless, I live not to far from Peak District so that’s my playground not the easiest technically but anything to reduce the constant peddle strikes is a big help appreciate it 👍🏼
 
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Forgot to mention that changing from thick square edged pedals to thinner pedals with chamfered front and rear edges and angled corners can reduce pedal strikes or at least reduce the severity of impacts.

My previous pedals were "Deity Tmac" which I loved, but this year switched to "Wolftooth Waveform". Both nicely concave (which I like) but if you compare the profiles you will see why I switched.

Edit: "Wolftooth Waveform"
 
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irie said:
Forgot to mention that changing from thick square edged pedals to thinner pedals with chamfered front and rear edges and angled corners can reduce pedal strikes or at least reduce the severity of impacts.

My previous pedals were "Deity Tmac" which I loved, but this year switched to "Oneup Wave". Both nicely concave (which I like) but if you compare the profiles you will see why I switched.
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Yeah sound, that’s not a bad shout I’ll have a look at them hopefully the shorter crank and the peddles do the trick then, chers bro 👍🏼
 
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irie said:
Forgot to mention that changing from thick square edged pedals to thinner pedals with chamfered front and rear edges and angled corners can reduce pedal strikes or at least reduce the severity of impacts.

My previous pedals were "Deity Tmac" which I loved, but this year switched to "Oneup Wave". Both nicely concave (which I like) but if you compare the profiles you will see why I switched.
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Yeah sound, that’s not a bad shout I’ll have a look at them hopefully the shorter crank and the peddles do the trick then, it’s well annoying chers bro 👍🏼
 
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Bojko said:
Yeah sound, that’s not a bad shout I’ll have a look at them hopefully the shorter crank and the peddles do the trick then, it’s well annoying chers bro 👍🏼
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Do you think they’ll be any good? Definitely slimmer than the ones I’ve got on some dmr thicker ones

IMG_8689.png
 
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Bojko said:
Do you think they’ll be any good? Definitely slimmer than the ones I’ve got on some dmr thicker ones
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What pedals have you got on now, and what's your budget?

Edit: Raceface Atlas looks like a nice pedal with angle corners and chamfered edges, and from what I can see there are some good deals around.
 
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Yeah think the race face look similar to the ones you recommended, I’ve got DMR V12 Pedals 9/16" Galaxy on at the min but they are quite bulky to be fair but around about the same sort of price range abit more if needs be!
 
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Bojko said:
Yeah think the race face look similar to the ones you recommended, I’ve got DMR V12 Pedals 9/16" Galaxy on at the min but they are quite bulky to be fair but around about the same sort of price range abit more if needs be!
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Think have just seen your Raceface Atlas pic on Tredz - £64.99 is a nice price (y)

Edit: Just return them if they dont look like much of an improvement over your DMR V12s.
 
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Bojko said:
Messed about adjusting suspension/tyre psi etc,

just wondering what parts etc people have used
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Don't go getting all worked up about some pedal strikes. This is the eMounTainBike Forum. We get pedal strikes here. The folks who are upset about pedal strikes are over on the eTownie Forum and the eBridleTrail Forum.

With your bike on the ground, rotate your pedal straight down. It's close to the ground, right? Now imagine compressing your suspension completely. The pedal is now just inches off the ground! Sure you get get another 2.5 mm by changing pedals, or a whopping 10 mm by throwing down a stack of cash on some new cranks. But what will that get you?

Will an extra 12.5 mm really get you that much, or is the effect just in your head? What happens if the rock garden you hit tomorrow has rocks 12.5 mm bigger than the rock garden you shredded today? What happens if the rut your riding is 12.5 mm deeper. What if the step ups are just a little more rugged than the last ones you rode? You're going to bang up those pedals, that's what.

My advice is to get out there and ride. If you want pretty pedals, stay on the streets, but don't lean it over too far on the roundabout.

IMG_3022 Medium.jpeg

IMG_3019 Medium.jpeg
 
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RustyIron said:
Sure you get get another 2.5 mm by changing pedals, or a whopping 10 mm by throwing down a stack of cash on some new cranks. But what will that get you?
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Re: Cranks - a "stack of cash" of about £55 ($70?) buys you 10mm more ground clearance which is proportionally 'quite a lot' (especially when your suspension is compressed).

Re: Pedals - with a profile which helps strikes to be glancing rather than 90° help to minimise potential motor damage.
 
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The cheapest method is technique. Ride level pedals when you're not turning & burning, keep your outside foot low when turning. That's free of charge & will keep you from striking pedals and pedal strikes on ebikes are bad, like very bad. Avoid them.
 
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there are 2 types of pedal strike. The most severe is when the pedal is hit square on but there is also the type where the outer edge of the pedal scrapes a rock etc. The shorter cranks and thinner pedals will help with the former and the chamfered ...especially leading edge....shape will help with the latter.
However don't fall into the trap of thinking these mods are a total cure!! The only full cure is to be constantly aware of the potential for both types of pedal strikes and taking a voiding action. That means ensuring a pedal likely to strike an obstacle is raised out of the way, or you steer clear of sideways pedal strikes especially if the bike is being leant over. There are occasions where it means stopping pedalling completely.....or hopping the bike.
 
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Make sure your sag is set correctly. Use your over run if available.
Get your pedals up over obstacles (like a roller coaster?). Once front pedal has cleared at 12-1, start a pedal bringing the other pedal up (from 6-7 o clock)over the obstacle. You can’t prevent some strikes, but they should be very rare. Good technique can not only lessen, but reduce the damage from pedal strikes.
 
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Bojko said:
Hi all, fairly new to emtb just brought cube stereo hybrid one77 and just keep getting constant peddle strikes! Messed about adjusting suspension/tyre psi etc, is there anything anyone else has done to combat this problem, read online it’s fairly low bb but just wondering what parts etc people have used thanks in advance -Jack
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I had the same problem on my new 177 a few months back. Swapped to 155mm cranks and I haven’t had a pedal strike since. Bit miffed as the ones that came stock were some lovely carbon RF Era ones.
 
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I'm running Pinnd 155 on my Cube One77, still getting some strikes but generally not the scary ones (omg that was close to having me over the bars!) that I was getting with the stock 165. It's a pity the Cubes don't have a hi/lo flip chip but given the relative bargain prices I don't think one can complain much
 
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GDAS said:
I'm running Pinnd 155 on my Cube One77, still getting some strikes but generally not the scary ones (omg that was close to having me over the bars!) that I was getting with the stock 165. It's a pity the Cubes don't have a hi/lo flip chip but given the relative bargain prices I don't think one can complain much
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Yeah it’s a shame only thing what ruins the bike other than that can’t fault it at all, but little improvement with the cranks helps 👌🏼
 
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