goldencore
Member
I received mine as well. The design was updated last year. Cascade even commented on a YouTube video of somebody installing the link with that info. I don't know why they don't update the website info. Maybe some legal precaution.
Orbea Rise Cascade Component Link
- Thread starter iJak
- Start date
theremotejuggernaut
Active member
I'd image they mean to file a little of the linkage rather than the paint on the frame. If you fit it and find it rubs on the frame, take the linkage back a little so it clears.
hilbil-E-bikr
Member
Installed mine this afternoon. No clearance problems on my ‘22 H15
BAh30
Active member
Orbea changed the linkage on the M, but not the H so it still works on the H models.
goldencore
Member
Installed Link and Preload Kit on my H20, 2022 today.
When reinserting the bearing the sleeve of the preload kit turned a bit and the bearing wasn't pressed in straight. I managed to solve the problem, but one should be careful with that step.
Has anybody changed the bearings after the preload kit was installed. The bearing puller I have will almost certainly not work when the metal sleeve is in between the bearings.
When reinserting the bearing the sleeve of the preload kit turned a bit and the bearing wasn't pressed in straight. I managed to solve the problem, but one should be careful with that step.
Has anybody changed the bearings after the preload kit was installed. The bearing puller I have will almost certainly not work when the metal sleeve is in between the bearings.
ebsocalmtb
Well-known member
The sleeve can move around enough between the bearings to give you enough purchase to tap it out from the other side. I used a 3/8" wooden dowel to tap it out.
steevwatson
Member
If I wanted to use the cascade link on a 2023 M20 am I right in thinking this will work as long as I can get my hands on one of the original linkage axle?
I would be interested, if still available. I cannot PM yet.
I've have the link on my 21 Rise and honestly I don't like how it makes the bike feel. I have to add almost 40psi more in the shock to get proper sag and mid stroke support feels compromised. If you climb technical trails, the cascade link may not be a good option. The increase in small bump sensitivity is completely negated due to the higher spring rates needed. It's only good for bigger hits, that's it.
Have you tried to reduce the shock air volume spacers?
Yea, I've removed all volume spacers because the cascade link makes the suspension more progressive, so it wasn't needed, but volume spacers don't change mid stroke support. The first 30% of the travel is absolutely useless with the link, it blows through the initial stroke way too easy. This is typically what happens when you change suspension linkage to increase travel but keep the same shock stroke length and eye to eye, spring rate has to increase to reach same sag which counters the goal of increasing small bump compliance. It feels good on the DH, but technical uphills or pedaling out of the saddle becomes compromised.
Removing all might be too drastic. I had the .8 and reduced to .6 and added 20-25 psi, and choose to run less sag.
The bike does feel different, less poppy but dealt better with the rugged terrain.
Anyone have any issues with the bearing in linkage and pushing the bolt out with it? This was my issued I had with 3 piece link, Orbea sent me the 2 piece evo link but I want to try the CC anyways for increase travel and stiffness.
I saw this post on FB not my bike, you can see the bolt moving away from linkage like my OEM 3 piece linkage did on drive side.
I saw this post on FB not my bike, you can see the bolt moving away from linkage like my OEM 3 piece linkage did on drive side.
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I tried many different configurations, I'm pretty good at tuning suspension and I don't completely dislike how it feels. If you need the rear to be in the 25 to 30% sag range the increased spring rate messes with the ride feel. To me the softer top end and what feels like less mid stroke support is just not as good for techy climbs where you need to power down or when standing and pedaling hard. It does feel better on g-outs, drops and DH trails in general, you can feel it's more progressive so I can push the bike more on the DH. I think it's largely because I'm 200lbs with gear and for heavier riders needing to get the shock over 230psi, air shocks just start feeling like poop in my opinion and this link requires about 20% higher air pressure than with the stock link. So maybe lighter riders will not experience this as much or someone on a coil shock.
I have a 3 piece linkage for sale on Ebay if anyone wants a spare.
In my opinion, the Cascade link is definitely an improvement for DH, but I agree on the fact that the setup is more complicated than with the stock configuration. I don’t have an opinion for technical uphill riding because I’m not interested in it (for fire roads and tarmac, no problem at all, especially with the Float X in closed position).
theremotejuggernaut
Active member
Not sure what spacers you had in the shock but removing them all sounds drastic.
What shock is it?
When you say the first 30% of the travel is useless, is that with the additional 40 psi you mention in your post above?
Or are you saying you had to go +40 with the link and now the sensitivity is crap?
Did the bike feel good before you fitted the new link??
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Fox Float X, I started with .7 spacers and incrementally ended with none. With all the additional air pressure, just to get the sag to 30%, I found the spacers were not needed anymore. The link increases ending stroke progressiveness so it makes sense, I'm not bottoming out the shock except maybe a little on big drops and it just felt better without volume spacers at the air pressure I was running. Now with lower air pressure and more sag yea I needed volume spacers, but I need to run it max 30% sag because of where I ride. We don't have fire roads, we have to climb techy, gnarly rocky single track to get to the DH runs and anymore than 30% sag I'm clipping pedals everywhere lol. But all this makes sense when you see the cascade links leverage ratio. Starting ratio increased from approximately 2.9:1 to 3.4:1 and this becomes a problem for heavier riders. I've always found air shocks loose performance when you start getting to about 20% of max air pressure and that's about where I am. I feel like the stock link felt better all around except for bigger hits it would bottom out bad, the new link solved this but there's a give and take when you increase the travel and keep same shock eye to eye and stroke. So this link increases travel and progressiveness, but you loose top end and mid stroke support and if you ride techy all mountain type of riding, the stock link is better IMO. If you're climbing fire roads and bombing DH trails, then the cascade link may be better.
theremotejuggernaut
Active member
In theory, slightly lower air pressure should result in pretty much the same sag.
Looking at the graph for the cascade link, it's basically firming things up throughout the travel. A slight reduction in spacer size with slightly lower air pressure should get you pretty much back to where you started albeit with 10mm more travel.
I'd say its time to go back to the drawing board with your settings and start again.
Are you sure the shock is working OK? There's no issue with it equalising?
I'd have said if the back end of the bike felt good before the cascade linkage then it should feel good afterwards, just slightly firmer throughout the travel. That would mean a slight reduction in air pressure and volume spacer size.
You've dropped all the spacers and added 40psi. They're each a massive change.
Something must be off if you've had go up 40psi. Either your initial settings (pre linkage) were wrong or your shock is playing up.
Add enough air to get roughly 25/30% sag and then don't bother checking sag again. It's a pointless metric really. Once you've used sag for a ball bark figure, adjust the air pressure until it feels right in the mid stroke and you're happy with the sensitivity. Then look at end stroke using volume spacers.
I'd say as a starting point, go down one size from what you had before the linkage upgrade.
I get what you're saying with it feeling better without tokens. I hate the feeling of an overly progressive airspring. There was a ridiculous trend a few years ago (still?) of people running silly low pressures and compensating with a shit load of volume spacers to stop it bottoming out.
That's just silly. No mid stroke, massive ramp up all in search of sensitivity. It basically creates a baggy, sloppy feeling shock.
Pretty sure Rockshox are to blame with their reliance on the airspring to support the bike. There's also a damper in there to help!
But yeah, I'd say go back to square one. Forget what you've already learned about the bike and the shock. Assume you know nothing and start from scratch. You should be able to get it feeling good, there's no reason why it shouldn't feel good.
Looking at the graph for the cascade link, it's basically firming things up throughout the travel. A slight reduction in spacer size with slightly lower air pressure should get you pretty much back to where you started albeit with 10mm more travel.
I'd say its time to go back to the drawing board with your settings and start again.
Are you sure the shock is working OK? There's no issue with it equalising?
I'd have said if the back end of the bike felt good before the cascade linkage then it should feel good afterwards, just slightly firmer throughout the travel. That would mean a slight reduction in air pressure and volume spacer size.
You've dropped all the spacers and added 40psi. They're each a massive change.
Something must be off if you've had go up 40psi. Either your initial settings (pre linkage) were wrong or your shock is playing up.
Add enough air to get roughly 25/30% sag and then don't bother checking sag again. It's a pointless metric really. Once you've used sag for a ball bark figure, adjust the air pressure until it feels right in the mid stroke and you're happy with the sensitivity. Then look at end stroke using volume spacers.
I'd say as a starting point, go down one size from what you had before the linkage upgrade.
I get what you're saying with it feeling better without tokens. I hate the feeling of an overly progressive airspring. There was a ridiculous trend a few years ago (still?) of people running silly low pressures and compensating with a shit load of volume spacers to stop it bottoming out.
That's just silly. No mid stroke, massive ramp up all in search of sensitivity. It basically creates a baggy, sloppy feeling shock.
Pretty sure Rockshox are to blame with their reliance on the airspring to support the bike. There's also a damper in there to help!
But yeah, I'd say go back to square one. Forget what you've already learned about the bike and the shock. Assume you know nothing and start from scratch. You should be able to get it feeling good, there's no reason why it shouldn't feel good.
Hello !
My friend wants to buy/install Cascade Link on his Orbea Rise H30 (g1), but also he's thinking about upgrading the shock (from cheapest model).
Can you recommend any other shock? Do I need to look for a specific tune ? (low compression or high compression, rebound tune, small/big volume air can etc.)
My friend wants to buy/install Cascade Link on his Orbea Rise H30 (g1), but also he's thinking about upgrading the shock (from cheapest model).
Can you recommend any other shock? Do I need to look for a specific tune ? (low compression or high compression, rebound tune, small/big volume air can etc.)
Also, Did you buy
cascadecomponents.bike
with it as well? is it useful/needed ?
Orbea Rise Preload Kit (2020-2022)
Rise Preload Kit | US | Cascade Components
This kit is designed to be used in conjunction with our Rise link to completely solve all issues and concerns with the links migrating outwards on the splines due to side loads. Truth be told, a single pinch clamp often isn't adequate to react all side loads from the rear end. Included is a...
cascadecomponents.bike
FoggyDog
Member
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