Yes, same settings as before, compression fully open and 7 clicks of rebound. On the last ride I went up to 8 clicks from closed and it felt better, but I still miss some liveliness/pop.
Orbea Rise Cascade Component Link
- Thread starter iJak
- Start date
Finally happy with the setup! Settled for now at 225psi (from 175psi), 0.4 token (from 0.8) full open compression and 7 clicks of rebound (same as before). It's as livelly and fast as before the link upgrade, but much more stable on the chunk and bigger landings.
Paired with 160mm in the fork I really think this is a great upgrade for people that want to make the Rise a touch more capable bike.
Paired with 160mm in the fork I really think this is a great upgrade for people that want to make the Rise a touch more capable bike.
kotto25
Member
Any reviews of running this link with a coil? I’m currently running a Bomber CR. I assume I would have to go up a spring rate with this link.
ebsocalmtb
Well-known member
I've got a few rides on mine now. Running a dhx2 long shocked with the cascade link. I upped the spring rate from 515lbs to about 550lbs for my 180lb riding weight. So far so good, the small bump compliance is definitely more supple and the progressiveness is definitely improved and the bottom out events are not as harsh or significant with this setup. I'm nursing an injury right now, so I'm not going as full send as I usually do, so time will tell if I'll need to up the spring rate once again.
ebsocalmtb
Well-known member
I'm still dialing in my rise with the above listed setup. Overall, it rides much nicer at speed/descending but there are some things to note with regards to overall balance. As I mentioned before, I upped the spring rate by about 40lbs, which is just under 10%. It feels as if that I still need to up the rate a bit from there as I've been able to bottom the bike pretty well on 5-6' drops that have landings that aren't so steep. The bottom out events are much softer then they were previously with my coil shock and the stock link, but they are there and noticeable, which means that I need to either increase the spring rate or start feeding in more compression damping.
In addition, the bike is definitely riding lower in it's travel in general then it was before the link. I can only attribute this to the overall increase in leverage ratio. According to linkeagedesign and cascade, at sag (15-18mm), the stock bike would have a leverage ratio of ~2.6 where now, with the cascade link, it's at ~2.9.
All of this points to needing a general increase in spring rate beyond what I've already added. So, from my experience, I'd expect most people adding this link to need to add somewhere around 12-15% spring rate compared to previous. I also feel like you're going to need to add a proportional amount of compression damping as well. These are not really positives or negatives, just anecdotes for those following along.
What is definitely clear with this link, is the increase in stiffness of the back end of the bike. It is way, way easier for me to snap this bike into a corner or catch berm with the link + pre-load kit from CC. The bike has a directness to it that wasn't there before, and it's very obvious when you're riding hard across an off camber, railing the bike into a berm or landing from a jump where you went way too deep/long and land hard. Previously, I'd find that it would get a bit hard to keep the bike pointed in the right direction (say compared to my santacruz bikes in this situation) but that gap has closed significantly with these improvements.
More info to come as I continue to dial this thing in.
In addition, the bike is definitely riding lower in it's travel in general then it was before the link. I can only attribute this to the overall increase in leverage ratio. According to linkeagedesign and cascade, at sag (15-18mm), the stock bike would have a leverage ratio of ~2.6 where now, with the cascade link, it's at ~2.9.
All of this points to needing a general increase in spring rate beyond what I've already added. So, from my experience, I'd expect most people adding this link to need to add somewhere around 12-15% spring rate compared to previous. I also feel like you're going to need to add a proportional amount of compression damping as well. These are not really positives or negatives, just anecdotes for those following along.
What is definitely clear with this link, is the increase in stiffness of the back end of the bike. It is way, way easier for me to snap this bike into a corner or catch berm with the link + pre-load kit from CC. The bike has a directness to it that wasn't there before, and it's very obvious when you're riding hard across an off camber, railing the bike into a berm or landing from a jump where you went way too deep/long and land hard. Previously, I'd find that it would get a bit hard to keep the bike pointed in the right direction (say compared to my santacruz bikes in this situation) but that gap has closed significantly with these improvements.
More info to come as I continue to dial this thing in.
While I haven't noticed the lower ride height, or bottoming out, I def agree with all the other points you have made. I am on a DVO Topaz Gen3, not a coil, so maybe that's why I haven't seen a drop in ride height? I had to up my pressure ~15psi and add 2 negative volume spacers to get the bike to sit at 30% sag. With this, the ride height hasn't changed from stock.
The handling improvement was the most noticeable thing for me. The bike just tracks better and more confidently. Small bump compliance is significantly improved too.
I noticed the rear flex on the stock bike, but it never really bothered me. Now that I have a couple rides on my cascade link and can feel the difference, I'm actually annoyed the stock link was allowed to pass QC from Orbea haha. I've also noticed that jumping the bike is just smoother. Cant really explain it, but it feels more confidence inspiring leaving the ground now.
All around the bike is just more stable, and not having to worry about the link walking itself loose is just fantastic.
Would you mind sharing your shock adjustment settings? I am similar weight and I am just about to get the same setup installed. First time I test a coil on the rise.
Looking at a Cascade to resolve the wandering linkage arms issue we have on the Rise. I bought a 2023 but it's pre-new-2 piece linkage and it seems Orbea are getting very fussy at the moment on replacing the linkage with the 2-piece under warranty and needs a lot of persuasion.
Weirdly my 23 does come with the preload bolt instead of the tool, but the linkage itself is the older model.
Slight worry above is some of the bikes not fitting correctly due to clearance issues on the chainstays ? I'm not particularly worried about the progressiveness or the extra travel as the Rise for me is a great bike.
Weirdly my 23 does come with the preload bolt instead of the tool, but the linkage itself is the older model.
Slight worry above is some of the bikes not fitting correctly due to clearance issues on the chainstays ? I'm not particularly worried about the progressiveness or the extra travel as the Rise for me is a great bike.
Even if Orbea won't replace the linkage under warranty isn't it going to be cheaper to buy the new Orbea part (which won't void the (lifetime) warranty on the rest of the frame) than the Cascade?
My bike was out of warranty so the linkage replacement was chargeable but the cost was discounted - it worked out at £130
Orbea's warranty coverage is quite complex now. 3 (previously 2) years on the 'bike' but that (of course) doesn't include various parts (wear and tear/consumables) https://www.orbea.com/gb-en/warranty/
My bike was out of warranty so the linkage replacement was chargeable but the cost was discounted - it worked out at £130
Orbea's warranty coverage is quite complex now. 3 (previously 2) years on the 'bike' but that (of course) doesn't include various parts (wear and tear/consumables) https://www.orbea.com/gb-en/warranty/
Looking at the parts list it's coming in at over £400, how did you manage to get it for that price ? I'd happily pay £130 all day.
I've pinged my LBS to ask them if they'd mind sending Orbea the question on price.... I can get mine 100% quite easily with a strip, clean, retorque, but i can't really get it to stay quiet for that long... I've not gone down the Loktite on it though i admit.
I've pinged my LBS to ask them if they'd mind sending Orbea the question on price.... I can get mine 100% quite easily with a strip, clean, retorque, but i can't really get it to stay quiet for that long... I've not gone down the Loktite on it though i admit.
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I did that too - added up all the parts and came to a frightening figure.
Contact your retailer. Mine contacted Orbea - the 'single part number package' I've been sent (all in one Orbea part bag), includes all the parts, with bearings fitted and is labelled XF05 and something like 'linkage upgrade kit for Rise gen1'
it was £130 which was after a 30% discount from Orbea (I'd guess might vary based on age/time out of warranty) . that part number doesn't show up on a search of their site, but then the site told me the gen1 linkages were no longer for sale, whereas the dealer said they could still order them via the dealer portal.
Cheers man. I'll see what they come back with. I had the same kit for my 22 Rise which has now gone back to my mate who i borrowed it from. So he's now got the new linkage and i'm stuck with the older one LOL. I don't mind massively in terms of price and buying it as i got the bike massively reduced to £3000 so i won't feel hard done to.
theremotejuggernaut
Active member
Definitely give the Loctite a go. I couldn't get 638 delivered in time for a weekend so bought some Graingers(?) retaining compound from Halfords and it sorted it.
By that point, I'd already replaced the splined axle once due to it developing play mid ride and there was clearly some fretting to the rocker arm. Even with the pinch bolts torqued up, there was still play in the assembly wiggling it by hand. The retaining compound sorted it for a thousand miles or so.
Ive had a bit of noise from the linkage recently so emailed the bike shop from whom I bought it and asked if they'd consider putting through a warranty request from Orbea.
I had no issue buying a new axle but it's now obsolete which was a bit annoying. I was expecting Orbea to say no as it's a wear and tear issue but they've sent a complete assembly out FOC.
By that point, I'd already replaced the splined axle once due to it developing play mid ride and there was clearly some fretting to the rocker arm. Even with the pinch bolts torqued up, there was still play in the assembly wiggling it by hand. The retaining compound sorted it for a thousand miles or so.
Ive had a bit of noise from the linkage recently so emailed the bike shop from whom I bought it and asked if they'd consider putting through a warranty request from Orbea.
I had no issue buying a new axle but it's now obsolete which was a bit annoying. I was expecting Orbea to say no as it's a wear and tear issue but they've sent a complete assembly out FOC.
I've been looking into buying a 2023 rise m10 or m20 but the rear travel is holding me back. I'd be keen at 150mm of travel but I don't think the cascade link works with the 2023 model. Is that correct? What is the difference and what is this I hear about an updated link on the 2023? Thanks
Crembz, see my recent video on the Vids thread, that was my lad riding the Orbea last night. Setting the 2nd fastest time of the evening and beating some super fast racer, standard bike and suspension was set to my 90+kg weight not his 63kg. The bike is honestly perfectly capable straight out of the crate.
Thanks, I'll take a look. Any chance you could help me understand why the Cascade link won't work on a 2023 rise?
Never said it wouldn't matey.
From what I can see it should, my 22 and 23 frame are the same and even the 24 linkage is backwards compatible with 22-23 so can't think of a reason it wouldn't.
My comment was more about not needing more fork. He was running the Marz Z1 which is the cheapo job.
MOG
Active member
The problem with the 23-34 model is that it has an updated rocker link which is a 2 piece design (rather than an axle and 2 outer arms on the earlier models). However, the Cascade line NEEDS the seperate axle from the earlier design to work. You cannot use the axle from the newer one as it is part of one complete side of the rocker. If you can get hold of an axle from an earlier model you are sorted
BUT
1. Many early axles are damaged by the side rockers working loose,
2. Orbea no longer have any in stock to buy
BUT
1. Many early axles are damaged by the side rockers working loose,
2. Orbea no longer have any in stock to buy
Ah right, excellent point. Should be a few about from people who had theirs replaced.
MOG
Active member
I guess so. But maybe Cascade will start producing the axles as well? Might be worth asking them....
cookie70
Active member
When I got the CC links I had planned to go coil but I was happy enough with the float X and the way it worked (removed some volume spacers). Technically the CC links will be heaps better for coil then the stock ones as they are more progressive.
goldencore
Member
Hi!
Just received a H30. Don't know if it's 2022 or 2023. Can I tell from just looking, if I have the two- or three-piece linkage?
Just received a H30. Don't know if it's 2022 or 2023. Can I tell from just looking, if I have the two- or three-piece linkage?
2022 was three piece linkage originally, it may have been swapped for a two piece though by the time you have it.
on the arms, the 3 piece has 2 bolts, underneath, they're the retention system. The 2 piece linkage only has 1 bolt.... It's that simple.
BAh30
Active member
I have a 24' H30. Cascade has told me that since Orbea only changed the link on the M bikes & not the H bikes the link will fit.
goldencore
Member
Is there any more info about the Cascade Link chipping paint on the 2022 Hydro models?
hilbil-E-bikr
Member
I read on Singletracks that they changed the design to prevent that.
Singletracks Tracks Orbea Rise Cascade Link Review
However, Cascade’s website still contains a note stating you may have to file off a little paint.
“We have now seen this both fit AND not fit aluminum frames from this same date range. If you have an aluminum frame please be aware that you might loose some paint. There are no structural concerns here so if you feel handy with a file all you have to do is take a little bit off.”
I‘ll be installing mine this weekend on my 22 H15 and will report back my results.
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