Stompweaver
Active member
I do to. It’s very annoying. I can only ignore it for so long and then have to strip it and re-grease it. I’ve tried all kinds of grease and nothing seems to stop it happening! ?
Kenevo Gen1 Official 2020 Kenevo Owners Thread
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
Yes but not that often , wrap some Jaffa tape around it to stop grip getting in !
Darryl
Member
Thanks, I’ll give a try.
slowlifter
Member
same with my Kenevo. in comparison to my Enduro there is always something rattling.
Hi
I am looking for a replacement rim for my 2020 Kenevo Comp. can’t seem to locate the matching one anywhere?
They are the Roval 27.5 DH specific, 28mm internal width.
They have the 30mm Traverse ones on the website, but my experience with them on the old Kenevo was that they were not tough enough.
Any ideas where I can get the matching rim?
I am looking for a replacement rim for my 2020 Kenevo Comp. can’t seem to locate the matching one anywhere?
They are the Roval 27.5 DH specific, 28mm internal width.
They have the 30mm Traverse ones on the website, but my experience with them on the old Kenevo was that they were not tough enough.
Any ideas where I can get the matching rim?
beutelfuchs
Active member
Why don't you do yourself a favor and buy a DTS?
DTS are good. I have had them on other bikes. I have a spare set I run on the Kenevo too. I haven’t had any real problem with this set of Rovals and have managed to flat spot the rear after a fairly bad landing. So, I just want to match these up anyway.
I ran the stock wheels for 1.5 years and they held up considering the abuse that I put them under by weighing over 120kgs with the riding style of an out of control freight train blasting through rocks without much of a real line choice.
I actually am still running the stock front wheel but changed the rear for a Hope Fortus 35 with a pro 4 hub which is supposed to be pretty durable.
beutelfuchs
Active member
My roval rear wheel started losing spokes rather on the short term just like all rovals I owned in the past. In the past 10y I only found two wheel brands which didn't fail me and these are DTS and Hope. Everything else usually didn't survive the first 4 weeks
beutelfuchs
Active member
Any idea where this annoying sound could come from?
Double rubber bumpers to hopefully spread the load in a crash to prevent the stanchions or rubbers dinking the frame.
This really does appear to be a weak point. I've got very slight dings both sides now but have seen some really damaged frames.
This really does appear to be a weak point. I've got very slight dings both sides now but have seen some really damaged frames.
While we are already at the topic of rubber bumpers, I don't like the fork rubber bumpers on the down tube of my Kenevo Comp 2021 with a single crown fork, or more precisely I don't like how early they stop the fork. Also they look a bit unsightly in my opinion.
I've checked the movement without them, and there seems to be only a couple of milimeters that the fork is too high to pass below the down tube.
So I'm looking for alternatives that will allow more side to side movement of the fork, does anyone have an idea or already replaced them?
There seems to be a version for the Levo SL 2020 which appears to be smaller, but I have no idea if the bore diameter is the same or if they actually allow for more movement.
The back up solution would be to get out my Dremel and try some DIY modifying. With uncertain outcome. ?
Apparently they're only required for the smaller sizes (or S2 only?), and they're normally not shown on presentation pictures either. So if you don't know what I'm talking about, here are two screenshots from a Youtube video (not mine):
I've checked the movement without them, and there seems to be only a couple of milimeters that the fork is too high to pass below the down tube.
So I'm looking for alternatives that will allow more side to side movement of the fork, does anyone have an idea or already replaced them?
There seems to be a version for the Levo SL 2020 which appears to be smaller, but I have no idea if the bore diameter is the same or if they actually allow for more movement.
The back up solution would be to get out my Dremel and try some DIY modifying. With uncertain outcome. ?
Apparently they're only required for the smaller sizes (or S2 only?), and they're normally not shown on presentation pictures either. So if you don't know what I'm talking about, here are two screenshots from a Youtube video (not mine):
beutelfuchs
Active member
Just waiting to get Motor nr. 4 installed. Unfortunately there is nothing any more to install it into, as my frame cracked as well.
SwissChess
Member
I'm on number 4 --- E01680-100200803-1-5155 and put 1770 km on as of today finger crossed it goes and goes!
Yeah, so I decided to dremel that thing now. Taking off the "horns" was enough to gain back enough steering movement, the down tube seems to be still protected well enough and it's not as ugly anymore.
beutelfuchs
Active member
Did you check if all frame and damper bolts are torqued correct?
I'm just getting my bomber fork replaced as it developed an awful creak. This type of sound can barely be located as the frame is transmitting through the tubes.
I'm just getting my bomber fork replaced as it developed an awful creak. This type of sound can barely be located as the frame is transmitting through the tubes.
beutelfuchs
Active member
Looks a lot better now indeed!
Didn't know this exists on the S2.
Hm. Maybe it was intended as another cable guide mount point for the brake hose.
For anyone struggling with the seat post length on the S2 size frames and its limited possible insertion depth in the seat tube, you can gain around 20mm insertion depth by removing the "nubs" on the bolts that connect the link to the seat tube. Which in turn allows you to install a longer dropper post with more travel. And we all know that more is always better! 
For whatever reason these bolts have these nubs on their end, which to me seem to serve no other purpose than to artificially limit the amount you can insert the seatpost into the seat tube. Maybe it's some sort of well-meant but poorly executed frame protection, to prevent the seatpost from scratching the seatube from the inside.
With these nubs in place, the available space in the seat tube for an S2 size frame is around 195mm. Without them, it's around 215mm. Which allowed me to replace the 125mm X-Fusion Manic with my existing 170mm OneUp Dropper v1 post. Before modifying the bolts, I needed to limit the travel of the dropper post to 140/150mm - which is still better than the 125mm that comes with the bike, but rather annoying if you switch from a bike where you were able to use the full 170mm.
Also a shameless plug to my overview page of dropper posts and their dimensions, which can help you get the most possible travel (without any claim of completeness):
http://sp00n.net/bike/seatposts/
Anyway, pictures:
1) The bore in the seat tube. No visible reason for these nubs whatsoever, the thread goes in all the way and the bore diameter stays the same as well. The black thing after the thread is already my inserted dropper post.
2) The bolts before modification. On the left bolt you can already see some marks where the dopper post touched the nub.
3) The bolts after modification. Dremel away!
(I would've made a picture with the nubs extending into the seat tube as well, but I really really didn't want to risk having to rewire the dropper post cable, which is huge PITA!)
For whatever reason these bolts have these nubs on their end, which to me seem to serve no other purpose than to artificially limit the amount you can insert the seatpost into the seat tube. Maybe it's some sort of well-meant but poorly executed frame protection, to prevent the seatpost from scratching the seatube from the inside.
With these nubs in place, the available space in the seat tube for an S2 size frame is around 195mm. Without them, it's around 215mm. Which allowed me to replace the 125mm X-Fusion Manic with my existing 170mm OneUp Dropper v1 post. Before modifying the bolts, I needed to limit the travel of the dropper post to 140/150mm - which is still better than the 125mm that comes with the bike, but rather annoying if you switch from a bike where you were able to use the full 170mm.
Also a shameless plug to my overview page of dropper posts and their dimensions, which can help you get the most possible travel (without any claim of completeness):
http://sp00n.net/bike/seatposts/
Anyway, pictures:
1) The bore in the seat tube. No visible reason for these nubs whatsoever, the thread goes in all the way and the bore diameter stays the same as well. The black thing after the thread is already my inserted dropper post.
2) The bolts before modification. On the left bolt you can already see some marks where the dopper post touched the nub.
3) The bolts after modification. Dremel away!
(I would've made a picture with the nubs extending into the seat tube as well, but I really really didn't want to risk having to rewire the dropper post cable, which is huge PITA!)
I also ran into this when trying to fit a 170mm AXS Reverb as deep as possible in my S3 Kenevo, hacked the bolts ends off to sink it in where I needed it to be. Anyone looking to do this, just be aware that the cables that run in the top tube, through the sidearm, and into the lower seat tube will be damaged if you insert the post too far or if the post slips down.
CjP
PRIME TIME
Levo SL bolts don’t have the nibs but are otherwise exactly the same dimensions.
Update: My LBS removed the motor, cleaned everything and replaced dropper post housing. Creak gone
As for the mystery screw, like sp00n mentioned, it's probably a placeholder for alternative brake hose routing.
beutelfuchs
Active member
I took the motor out today to hunt down a creaking noise. After assembling everything back and testing the bike, assistance was cut after few meters and i got the error that the speed sensor is not detected. Its cable seems to be plugged well to the motor. I also cleaned the magnet and resetted the TCU, without success.
Would anyone have an idea what else I could try?
Would anyone have an idea what else I could try?
Before my motor blew the speed sensor error came on and stayed on after new motor was fitted . I deleted app then reinstalled it and it was fine , worth a try !
Ps did it cure the creak ?
beutelfuchs
Active member
I finally gave up and brought it to the shop. As when re-tourquing the motor bolts one of them snapped.
Be really carefully all whenever you do that, these bolts are raw eggs. I just a bit of grease on the threads before torquing which must have lead to a slight over torque.
So not the best day in terms of DIY bike mainteance and if I catched the creak (or lets say: one of them) I will only see when I get it back.
Be really carefully all whenever you do that, these bolts are raw eggs. I just a bit of grease on the threads before torquing which must have lead to a slight over torque.
So not the best day in terms of DIY bike mainteance and if I catched the creak (or lets say: one of them) I will only see when I get it back.
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