new cef55 frame

I just finished assembling the CEF55. Configurations:
Frame cef55 small
Battery 700wh + 280Wh
Gorupset Deore M6100
Brakes M4120
Wheels SLX
Front tire Kenda Helkat 2.4
Rear tire Ruban 2.3
Fork Lyric 170mm
Shox Super Deluxe suspension 210x55
weight: 21kg

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To those who have built up this frame, how close to the rear shock yolk come to the seat tube? Mine has barely 1 to 1.5 mm before it makes contact. I'm worried that with some compression of the top out bumper in the shock, it could potentially hit. I could easily add a 1 or 2 mm shim to the shock to reduce eye to eye measurement, but unfortunately that would reduce travel as well.
 
GuitsBoy said:
To those who have built up this frame, how close to the rear shock yolk come to the seat tube? Mine has barely 1 to 1.5 mm before it makes contact. I'm worried that with some compression of the top out bumper in the shock, it could potentially hit. I could easily add a 1 or 2 mm shim to the shock to reduce eye to eye measurement, but unfortunately that would reduce travel as well.
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I dont have one yet, I recently ordered the cef69, but I plan on using an offset bushing which moves the yoke forward another 2mm. I know it changes the geo slightly but I'm ok with that.
 
sk0t said:
I dont have one yet, I recently ordered the cef69, but I plan on using an offset bushing which moves the yoke forward another 2mm. I know it changes the geo slightly but I'm ok with that.
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My 210 E2E measurement takes a 2mm offset bushing into consideration, so unfortunately that's already been utilized. The other side (shock body side) is far too tight to use a second offset bushing. The shock body already slightly rubs using a standard bushing.

For what it's worth, I'm using a manitou mara pro piggyback, sized 222x68 with a 10mm spacer, and 2mm offset bushing, which nets a 210mm eye to eye, with 58mm stroke (approx 158mm wheel travel).
 
GuitsBoy said:
To those who have built up this frame, how close to the rear shock yolk come to the seat tube? Mine has barely 1 to 1.5 mm before it makes contact. I'm worried that with some compression of the top out bumper in the shock, it could potentially hit. I could easily add a 1 or 2 mm shim to the shock to reduce eye to eye measurement, but unfortunately that would reduce travel as well.
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It's really close, but it doesn't seem to touch, I forced it a little and everything was ok.
 
sk0t said:
I'm probably looking for a medium (17").
Does anyone know if this is being sold on alibaba? I have only seen it on SZZS and 4leaf.
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I noticed 4LEAF doing frameset only in their official website. They used to be offering the building service.
 
My shock yolk clearance was just a little too close for comfort. Way too close, in fact. I had approximately 0.5mm clearance with a shock measuring 212 mm eye-to-eye, and a 1.5mm offset bushing (Burgtec Ti 8x22). I previously eyeballed this at around 1-1.5mm, but the top out foam in the shock has since compressed a bit. But this means the typical 210mm shock would have exactly 1mm clearance, at least in my particular frame. Seems tight.

My manitou shock is actually a 222x68 with a 10 mm spacer, making it a 212x58. I removed the 10mm spacer, and added a 12mm spacer instead, reducing the shock to 210x56. With the 1.5mm offset bushing, I have about 2.5 to 3mm of clearance now, but my travel is reduced by about 6mm at the wheel.

It looks like I could potentially clearance the top of the yolk just a little bit with a dremel or grinder. If I decide that I need the extra travel, I might go this route. The shock nose has at last 1mm more clearance than the yolk does.

For what it's worth, I confirmed the rear travel spec stated by the manufacturer. I measured an exact 6.875 inches (150 mm) of travel at the wheel, and exactly 55 mm shock travel before hitting the shock bump stop.
 
After a few days of stewing, I was largely unhappy being limited to ~150 mm rear travel. The 1.5mm offset bushing just wasnt enough to give me room to increase the shock stroke and length.

I contemplated grinding down the yolk, but then realized, the rear bushing really doesnt serve any purpose. The yolk pivots, but the shock does not pivot at all within the yolk. If I remove the DU bushing, I'm no longer limited to drilling an offset hole in 12.7mm diameter, I'm limited by the larger 15mm diameter bore in the shock itself. This allows for a 3 to 3.5mm offset, instead of the standard 1.5 mm.
I ordered up some cheap 15mm bar stock on amazon, and 3d printed a jig, and drilled out an 8mm hole as close to the edge as I felt comfortable. This allowed me to reduce the top out spacer from 12mm down to 10mm, making my shock effectively 212x58 again, yet maintaining ample clearance between the yolk and seat tube.

Now I've got just about 160mm travel in the rear, which matches much better with 170mm up front. At least in theory.

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Top out bumper reduced from 12mm to 10mm. Shock is now 212x58.

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Still tight, but much better than before.
 
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It would've been perfect if they did with this frame the same as with the CEF69, trunnion so you can use it on 205x55/60/65 . It looks really similar also
 
8Grunf said:
Is the CEF69 frame available in size 19"? Thanks
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Ciao 8Grunf, dato che sono nuovo del forum e il tuo profilo è privato, saresti così gentile da contattarmi in PM così ti posso chiedere delle info in merito ai telai SZZS, dato che mi pare tu abbia una certa esperienza in merito, grazie
 
Yesterday I shared to Jean about modifying one of these for the CEF55 to make more sense
- Yoke (mount should be lower between the two parts of the yolk, aka achieving more travel on 55mm stroke and keep 210x55 shock)
- shock mount on the frame (moving it 2cm forward to be able to fit a 230x55/65 shock)
- Shock type (change shock mount on the frame to trunnion as CEF69 has)
to be able to achieve more travel, since if not it's limited to 150mm rear.

Hopefully there's more people asking for this and it happens. A CEF69 type with M820 motor would be amazing.

Probably the yolk is the cheapest one to modify, but of course leverage changes and most of the bike behaviour

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Paint is done, learned a few things hard way as always. Next step battery and rest of the components. One drawback I found is Max insertion length of a dropper post. In L-size frame it is about 290mm until the dropper post will hit the charging port .

Question:
Can someone measure please insertion length in M size frame ? Distance from seat post clamp to top bolt of charging port.
Thanks

IMG_20260308_084016.webp
 
borysgo2 said:
Paint is done, learned a few things hard way as always. Next step battery and rest of the components. One drawback I found is Max insertion length of a dropper post. In L-size frame it is about 290mm until the dropper post will hit the charging port .

Question:
Can someone measure please insertion length in M size frame ? Distance from seat post clamp to top bolt of charging port.
Thanks

View attachment 179018
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The frame insertion length is a critical info to know... In fact knowing about it in the M size will be interesting for me too. Have you tried asking to the seller?
 
Do you guys think it is possible to install a 210x52.5 shock? I have a spare one and would love to re-use it...
 
Rafael Faria 🇧🇷 said:
Eu tb sou do brasil e pretendo compralo, pediu completo ja com as baterias?
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Hoje tenho 2 bikes, cef50 e cef55, ambas comprei o kit quadro, motor e bateria. Para o Brasíl o envio é bem demorado, tempo de porto e desembaraço, mas quando estiveres com a bicicleta irás gostar. Importante dizer que o m820 é para assistência leve o que acha ótimo por ainda teres a sensação de pedalar.

Com relação a parte da iluminação no chicote que sai do motor para o display já tem um conector DC de baixa corrente suficiente para lanternas comuns, não lembro a voltagem e amperegem.

Em tempo sou de Brasília.

Traslate


Regarding the lighting part, the wiring harness that goes from the motor to the display already has a low-current DC connector sufficient for common flashlights; I don't remember the voltage and amperage.

By the way, I'm from Brasília."
 
lkdoido said:
Hoje tenho 2 bikes, cef50 e cef55, ambas comprei o kit quadro, motor e bateria. Para o Brasíl o envio é bem demorado, tempo de porto e desembaraço, mas quando estiveres com a bicicleta irás gostar. Importante dizer que o m820 é para assistência leve o que acha ótimo por ainda teres a sensação de pedalar.

Com relação a parte da iluminação no chicote que sai do motor para o display já tem um conector DC de baixa corrente suficiente para lanternas comuns, não lembro a voltagem e amperegem.

Em tempo sou de Brasília.

Traslate


Regarding the lighting part, the wiring harness that goes from the motor to the display already has a low-current DC connector sufficient for common flashlights; I don't remember the voltage and amperage.

By the way, I'm from Brasília."
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M820 has 12V 6W light output so for more demanding lights DC-DC is a must. In my case 30W is fine.

During assembly I found that it is very easy to mix up seatstay bolts. The upper ones have 5mm allenkey and lower ones 6mm+a bit thicker washer/head.

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Hi
Had some issue with 48V charger causing cells to charge over 4.2V. Charger max voltage was a bit over 55Vdc.
Just in case someone needs there is small mod to be done to fix that issue. After the mod charger max voltage goes to around 54,4Vdc.

In some cases the resistor value might be a bit differed due some components tolerances.

Just sandwiched 4M7 resistor on top of the 2M4 one.

Regards

AFTER MOD.webp


BEFORE MOD.webp


MOD ITSELF.webp
 
Great job, congratulations. How do you secure the battery to the down tube?
 
8Grunf said:
Great job, congratulations. How do you secure the battery to the down tube?
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There is 5x20mm aluminium bar, mouting holes are about 1mm bigger than steel M6 inserts and are floating a bit for better alignment..
Fiber glass on top and bottom of the battery. All taped up with fiber glass tape + green paper + blue wrap.

5.webp
 
lkdoido said:
Hoje tenho 2 motos, cef50 e cef55, ambas comprei o kit quadro, motor e bateria. Para o Brasil o envio é bem demorado, tempo de porto e desembaraço, mas quando estiveres com a bicicleta você vai gostar. Importante dizer que o m820 é para assistência leve o que acha ótimo por ainda teres a sensação de pedalar.

Com relação à parte da iluminação no chicote que sai do motor para o display já tem um conector DC de baixa corrente suficiente para lanternas comuns, não lembro de voltagem e amperegem.

Em tempo sou de Brasília.

Traduzir


Com relação à parte da iluminação, o chicote de fios que vai do motor ao visor já possui um conector CC de baixa corrente suficiente para lanternas comuns; não me lembro da voltagem e da amperagem.

Aliás, eu sou de Brasília.
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Eu ja tenho duas CEF 50 , vou so trocar o quadro de uma delas … e devo vender meu quadro cef 50 sem o motor ..
 
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