My Dengfu E10 build

Hi @Kiwin, Thank you for this great and detailed post. Best post in this forum for assembling a bike.
I would also like to build a bike similar to your bike and still waiting for the motor and frame to arrive.
After several months, how did you find the bike parts?
Do you recommend choosing the same parts or did you change your mind about some of them after using during the past months?
Why didn't you choose a front and rear 203m disc brake? Can a 220m disc brake be installed?
 
⚡ EMTB Pro Go Pro — exclusive discounts & ad-free Peaty's 25% off & more · Ad-free browsing · Pro badge See the deals →
Hi @Kiwin, Thank you for this great and detailed post. Best post in this forum for assembling a bike.
I would also like to build a bike similar to your bike and still waiting for the motor and frame to arrive.
After several months, how did you find the bike parts?
Do you recommend choosing the same parts or did you change your mind about some of them after using during the past months?
Why didn't you choose a front and rear 203m disc brake? Can a 220m disc brake be installed?
Thanks @SchadowMaster,
I'm very happy with the parts, I did not changed anything : everything works like a charm ;)
As for any bike it is very important to clean it up after every ride.
I went for 203 front and 180 rear because :
- 1) I feel it is important having less breaking ability on the rear than on the front.
- 2) weight saving (rear are 2 pistons instead of 4 in the front)
- 3) reliability of the 2 pistons (for better security)
- 4) money saving
I think 220mm can be installed on the Lyrik (better check this on the actual model you will choose), you will probably have to buy adapter to mount the break.
Regards,
Kiwin
 
so my question is …. you have a fairly robust build - you did not go budget on anything but the frame. Do you think if you did it again and used Chinese branded (and thus way less expensive components) you would still have had acceptable results?
Himalo 160/180 fork, DNM rear shock, Meroca brakes, Xiamen CF wheels for example?

Hi @Jeromep,
I chose this frame because I could not find another one. And @Rob Rides EMTB posts and videos convinced me.
I did not go budget on the others parts because I wanted something reliable, and on which I trusted quality. I had another bike with Ritchey parts I was very happy with. I read lots and lots information about forks and shocks brands. Also I had to make sure everything could fit together and it was easier to find exact specs on well-known brands.
I don't know much about the brands you mention : but you are more than welcome to try and share your experience !
Kiwin
 
Hi @Kiwin I am in the final stages of building my ebike and need a little help.
What torque should I use to tighten the three engine mounting bolts?
According to the engine installation manual, the three screws must be tightened with 35 NM Isn't that too much for the carbon frame?
Screenshot_20220524-225216_Adobe Acrobat.jpg
 
Hi @Kiwin
According to the engine installation manual, the three screws must be tightened with 35 NM Isn't that too much for the carbon frame?
Hi,
I don't think I use a torque wrench to mount it. Just tightened at feeling, not too much, and checked from times to times at the beginning that it does not gets loose.
Hope your build got well !
 
Hi Kiwin. I built my EBike mostly based on your components list, thanks!!

I would like to know the torque value for the lock ring that we need to use the "Radon Tool Adapter For HOLLOWTECH II Bottom Bracket" - can someone please give a guess??

This is my build with Dengfu E10 frame and Bafang M500 motor -- very happy with final result!!

I developed and built our own OpenSource EasyDIY display for Bafang M500/M510/M600 motors, that let me change every parameter of the motor while I am riding outside, including changing the max speed up to 60 km/h: https://opensourceebike.github.io/

ebike_bafang.jpg


20220526_115256~2.jpg


Our EasyDIY display:
photo1652723639.jpeg


282653391_3160130690875160_3324339580856913153_n.jpg


281800288_3160133510874878_4482164200214867924_n.jpg


282823461_3160130077541888_6149948707886000549_n.jpg


01.png


01.png
 
Hi Kiwin. I built my EBike mostly based on your components list, thanks!!

I would like to know the torque value for the lock ring that we need to use the "Radon Tool Adapter For HOLLOWTECH II Bottom Bracket" - can someone please give a guess??

This is my build with Dengfu E10 frame and Bafang M500 motor -- very happy with final result!!

I developed and built our own OpenSource EasyDIY display for Bafang M500/M510/M600 motors, that let me change every parameter of the motor while I am riding outside, including changing the max speed up to 60 km/h: https://opensourceebike.github.io/

View attachment 88966

View attachment 88967

Our EasyDIY display:
View attachment 88968

View attachment 88982

View attachment 88983

View attachment 88984

View attachment 88972

View attachment 88971
Nice build and great display.
The lock ring can be tightened with 35 Nm max.
 
Thank you, I will also collect E10. Previously, I collected the E09 on the M600. I've been driving for 2 years now and the E09 has some minor problems. On E10, these problems are solved. Now I have ordered the M510 48V motor. I want to compare it with the M600. Why did you buy a separate headlight and brake light? A headlight and a brake light can be connected to the motor via native wires. Bafang does not sell wires with a motor. They must be bought separately. You can connect brakes with sensors to the motor. I chose the MT5 headset, they are sold together with the wires. MT5e 3-Finger Brake Lever. MT5e HIGO-Closer 3-Finger Disc Brake. I don't remember open or close. It is very convenient when you press the brake, the motor stops and the brake light lights up.

WhatsApp Image 2022-06-13 at 12.24.30.jpeg


WhatsApp Image 2022-06-13 at 12.24.19.jpeg
 
 
To connect drossel, you need to be friends with a soldering iron
 
I turned off the Shift sensor, it doesn't work well, there are a lot of false positives. I'm pressing the brake a little bit now, the motor is not working and I'm switching speeds.

m620.jpg
 
Two days ago I did my very first long ride on mountains. Everything fine except a rattling noise that I can't figure where it comes from. That noise only happens at rocks paths, not on smooth paths. At some point, I removed the frame battery cover but the noise was still there. I removed and inserted a few times the battery (original Dengfu E10 battery case) but it was good, no visible looseness and seems pretty solid.

Anyone had the same issue?? Thank in in advance.
 
usually its from internal frame above the motor, where bowdens are hitting frame. You need to use foam to protect this part, otherwise bowdens are hitting frame. Specially on jumps, rocks... THere are pictures on early builds here we posted. If you cannot find, let me know...
 
usually its from internal frame above the motor, where bowdens are hitting frame. You need to use foam to protect this part, otherwise bowdens are hitting frame. Specially on jumps, rocks... THere are pictures on early builds here we posted. If you cannot find, let me know...
If you can find the link for that posts, I would appreciate.

Meanwhile, here is a picture of inside. I was now thinking if could be the battery shaking on that yellow metal piece that locks that battery, because I can see that piece is a bit free to move when there is no battery attached...

1655110638284.png
 
here it is

 
Some notes about using pedal power meter on EBike, something I did not found information of:

I did first test ride with the Garmin Rally XC200 power meter pedals + Garmin Edge 1040. On the EasyDIY display, I have the regular 3 buttons and I also have the 4th button specifically to change the Garmin Edge pages.

The EasyDIY display is very small, shows only motor data and is hard to see outdoors. But since this display is implementing ANT+LEV Ebike, I am seeing the motor assist level value and battery SOC directly on Garmin Edge, which is showing important data as seen on the image: my human pedal power; my heart rate; my stamina; etc. There are other pages that I am not showing, like the map navigation page, elevation graph page, etc.

The pedal power meter seems to work very well, no issue at all for being installed on an EBike. And I was also using my Garmin Fenix 7 watch, where I also paired the pedals power meter, meaning I was receiving and recording the same value both on my watch and on the GPS cycling computer. This is the advantage of ANT compared to Bluetooth.

1655228210081.png


1655228219267.png
 
usually its from internal frame above the motor, where bowdens are hitting frame. You need to use foam to protect this part, otherwise bowdens are hitting frame. Specially on jumps, rocks... THere are pictures on early builds here we posted. If you cannot find, let me know...
I tested without the battery and battery frame cover, but that noise stills there.
So tomorrow I will try to use the foam as you say.
 
Two days ago I did my very first long ride on mountains. Everything fine except a rattling noise that I can't figure where it comes from. That noise only happens at rocks paths, not on smooth paths. At some point, I removed the frame battery cover but the noise was still there. I removed and inserted a few times the battery (original Dengfu E10 battery case) but it was good, no visible looseness and seems pretty solid.

Anyone had the same issue?? Thank in in advance.
did you maybe put fenders on your bike?
 
i tried such a clamp. not good for carbon. is etched in the seat post. I'm afraid it will damage the carbon?
I use the same without any problem ? i think it is better than classic clamps for carbone (wider/2 tightening) and i appreciate the rubber gasket. which clamp do you recommend ?
 
Two days ago I did my very first long ride on mountains. Everything fine except a rattling noise that I can't figure where it comes from. That noise only happens at rocks paths, not on smooth paths. At some point, I removed the frame battery cover but the noise was still there. I removed and inserted a few times the battery (original Dengfu E10 battery case) but it was good, no visible looseness and seems pretty solid.

Anyone had the same issue?? Thank in in advance.
May be Your teeth? 😂
 
Thats why US bikers and soldiers always have a gumin mouth.To avoid this :)
 
I tested without the battery and battery frame cover, but that noise stills there.
So tomorrow I will try to use the foam as you say.
I found the issue, the cassette was a small bit loose. This time I used a torque wrench with adequate torque and I already did 400kms on mountains and that noise is gone.
 
i tried such a clamp. not good for carbon. is etched in the seat post. I'm afraid it will damage the carbon?
I use it. I really like it. It’s a large clamp. I don’t have problems witch etching in the carbon at all.
 
Keep reading
    Browse all

    Similar Threads

    Community Stats

    Since 2018
    669K
    Messages
    40,824
    Members
    Join 30,000+ Riders, it's free!
    Back
    Top