Muc off big bore tubeless valve

steve_sordy

steve_sordy

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Has anyone fitted a set of these?

muc-off.com

Big Bore Tubeless Valves

The revolutionary 'straight through' coreless design delivers up to 264% more airflow than traditional Presta valves. Featuring a lever-operated ball valve that revolutionises airflow control. No clogging, faster tubeless setup, and adjustable tyre pressures on the go for any terrain and...
muc-off.com muc-off.com

Despite always leaving my bike parked with the valves at the bottom, my Presta valves get clogged with sealant on a regular basis. So I like the idea of the new valve from Muc-off. With approx. two and a half times the airflow, of a conventional Presta valve, it also promises to make inflation easier as well as clog less. There is mention of a ball valve (which must be the on/off) but no mention of a non-return valve, so how is the valve used to inflate the tyre and to change pressure afterwards? What stops the air from pissing out after each compression stroke of my pump? I know that these points must have been resolved, but none of the info I have found makes any comment.

Bike Radar have a review, but it is more like a press release than a user review.


And how do I know what stem length I need?

PS: It also seems that they are sold out everywhere, so they must work OK.
 
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Probably the same as the santa cruz fillmore valves?
One was fitted to a warranty wheel i received recently. I came to put in the sealant and discovered there is no core to remove and apparently you just squirt it in.
Rather than risk making a mess i popped the bead.
 
cozzy said:
Probably the same as the santa cruz fillmore valves?
One was fitted to a warranty wheel i received recently. I came to put in the sealant and discovered there is no core to remove and apparently you just squirt it in.
Rather than risk making a mess i popped the bead.
Click to expand...
It has always puzzled me that sealants supposed to fill 6mm holes (some do 7mm), will "just squirt in" down the narrow tyre valve. The first and only time I tried to put some latex sealant down the valve, to my surprise it worked, but only because i had forgotten to shake the bottle! All the lumps stayed in the bottle and upon my next puncture I got loads of sealant squirting out, followed by a flat! :eek:
 
I use the Filmore valve and I’ll install those on the new carbon wheels (whenever that happens). No valve core to remove so I thought syringe method might be difficult …but it works. I use Muc-OFF btw. Or I just pop a bead and pour it in.

Either way, I don’t get the slow psi drop as I did before. Which is probably why I only use the thumb squeeze test now.
 
I believe that muc-off valve is new, it's not out of stock but rather not yet in stock. On thier site...
1722285432850.png


To me it seems overly complicated. I'd suggest the Filmore value. Amazing in its simplicity and ease of use. It's been around a while and I see little to no long term complaints.
 
steve_sordy said:
Has anyone fitted a set of these?

Bike Radar have a review, but it is more like a press release than a user review.
Click to expand...
I noticed that the vent holes are fairly small and may be susceptible to dry sealant clogging. (Which I’ve noticed on a few tire changes). However you can probably blast air through them faster/better.

The Filmore valve has a circular- plunger-air-stop which may be less prone to clogging. But the presta-sized-tube may not allow a large volume of compressed air to enter quickly.

Only once I’ve had to strap the tire perimeter while trying to set/pop the bead with a blast of compressed air. It was a B****!
 
Stihldog said:
I noticed that the vent holes are fairly small and may be susceptible to dry sealant clogging. (Which I’ve noticed on a few tire changes). However you can probably blast air through them faster/better.

The Filmore valve has a circular- plunger-air-stop which may be less prone to clogging. But the presta-sized-tube may not allow a large volume of compressed air to enter quickly.

Only once I’ve had to strap the tire perimeter while trying to set/pop the bead with a blast of compressed air. It was a B****!
Click to expand...
I've been able to easily seat a bead with Filmores by simply using a standard floor pump. And add sealant easily through a tube like the one Orange provides. They really seem perfect, I have no idea why people use anything else.
1722290739365.png
 
John_likes_bikes said:
They really seem perfect, I have no idea why people use anything else.
Click to expand...

Filmore valves are expensive. The other valves work just fine and are suitable. I’ve only installed 4 sets (2 sets on mine and 2 sets on others) and I don’t experience any psi loss or clogging.
 
steve_sordy said:
There is mention of a ball valve (which must be the on/off) but no mention of a non-return valve, so how is the valve used to inflate the tyre and to change pressure afterwards?
Click to expand...

I was wondering the same thing. Frankly, I don't want to have to turn a fiddly little knob, especially when I'm wearing gloves or not wearing glasses.

For the same price as the Muc-Offs, you can get Fillmore's. I've been running them for years. When I got the bike I'm on now, the first things I bought for it were pedals and Fillmore's.

Really, it's not about the clogging. The Fillmore's provide more consistent pressure readings, and they're WAY easier to pump up. I'd expect the Muc-Offs to provide an equally good experience, but haven't talked to anyone who has actually used them. The only two things I know are that Fillmore's are nice, and Presta's are awful.
 
RustyIron said:
I was wondering the same thing. Frankly, I don't want to have to turn a fiddly little knob, especially when I'm wearing gloves or not wearing glasses.

For the same price as the Muc-Offs, you can get Fillmore's. I've been running them for years. When I got the bike I'm on now, the first things I bought for it were pedals and Fillmore's.

Really, it's not about the clogging. The Fillmore's provide more consistent pressure readings, and they're WAY easier to pump up. I'd expect the Muc-Offs to provide an equally good experience, but haven't talked to anyone who has actually used them. The only two things I know are that Fillmore's are nice, and Presta's are awful.
Click to expand...
I guess for me, when I bust open a tubeless tire, and see a small colli-flower looking growth around the orfice of a standard presta valve …it looks like a clogging point. The valve core is probably not much better.

I agree though, Filmore valves are accurate, easy, and seem simple.
 
MrSimmo said:
Assuming the rims will take it, why not just swap the Presta’s for Schraders?
Click to expand...
I don’t know the history of presta valves …maybe because of tubeless tires or the smaller rim size? You can certainly blast more air volume through a shradder. Maybe it’s the diameter difference?…to fit certain rim holes.
 
Stihldog said:
I don’t know the history of presta valves …maybe because of tubeless tires or the smaller rim size? You can certainly blast more air volume through a shradder. Maybe it’s the diameter difference?…to fit certain rim holes.
Click to expand...


The Presta valve, also known as the French valve or Sclaverand valve, was invented by Etienne Sclaverand, a Frenchman working for the Morin company.

The primary reason for developing the Presta valve was to reduce the size of the valve hole in bicycle rims. In the early days of cycling, rims were often made of wood, and later, of steel. These materials were relatively heavy, and cyclists were constantly seeking ways to reduce weight and improve performance.

A smaller valve hole meant a stronger rim, as the weakest point of a rim is around the valve hole. This allowed for the creation of lighter and more efficient wheels. Additionally, Presta valves are capable of handling higher pressures, making them ideal for road bikes and other high-performance bicycles.

In essence, the Presta valve was a technological advancement driven by the pursuit of lighter, faster, and more efficient bicycles.
 
"Additionally, Presta valves are capable of handling higher pressures, making them ideal for road bikes and other high-performance bicycles."

Which is contradicted by the pressures in forks and rear shocks somewhat.
Imho, prestas are just a hang up from the daft roadie influenced weight weenie days of XC and the lengths that some brands go to to make presta sized valves that are less compromised when schraders exist is hilarious. 😄

Fwiw, I'll keep to using £5 valves and buying bags of new cores every so often.
 
I swapped mine to Schrader a while ago on my Levo (I emailed Roval first to make sure the rims would be fine first). Went with Stans Schrader no tubes valves. The constant cussing and swearing around bent valve cores, fiddly inflation and broken pump heads forever gone :D

Additional bonus - I put the prestas on my wife’s dutch bike and got rid of whatever non standard crap non presta/schrader valves she had. Winner!
 
steve_sordy said:
Has anyone fitted a set of these?

muc-off.com

Big Bore Tubeless Valves

The revolutionary 'straight through' coreless design delivers up to 264% more airflow than traditional Presta valves. Featuring a lever-operated ball valve that revolutionises airflow control. No clogging, faster tubeless setup, and adjustable tyre pressures on the go for any terrain and...
muc-off.com muc-off.com

Despite always leaving my bike parked with the valves at the bottom, my Presta valves get clogged with sealant on a regular basis. So I like the idea of the new valve from Muc-off. With approx. two and a half times the airflow, of a conventional Presta valve, it also promises to make inflation easier as well as clog less. There is mention of a ball valve (which must be the on/off) but no mention of a non-return valve, so how is the valve used to inflate the tyre and to change pressure afterwards? What stops the air from pissing out after each compression stroke of my pump? I know that these points must have been resolved, but none of the info I have found makes any comment.

Bike Radar have a review, but it is more like a press release than a user review.


And how do I know what stem length I need?

PS: It also seems that they are sold out everywhere, so they must work OK.
Click to expand...
I think parking with the valves at the bottom may not be ideal, sealant will run around the rim and (depending on the shape of the end of the valve) may well hang around until you connect a pump or gauge and then a small amount come back out to clog the valve. I leave mine at any angle except top or bottom.

Every bike pump has a non-return valve in it. I haven't seen any more info than you posted but I am guessing that the idea is that you connect the pump, then open the ball valve, then pump to your desired pressure, then try to remember to close the ball valve before removing the pump (or hilarity will ensue).
 
Schrader valves didn't come into bicycles until the mid 1970s , it was a game changer as french valves were not liked[eg make and put car valves on bikes or else], but how and why french valves made a comeback is beyond me.:D
 
I love the Fillmores, but when setting up a Bosch bike with Valve mount speed sensor the Fillmore did not have enough threads to secure the sensor.
 
Larsey said:
I love the Fillmores, but when setting up a Bosch bike with Valve mount speed sensor the Fillmore did not have enough threads to secure the sensor.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's pretty tight. I'm running the 50 mm stem and all my stuff fits. I borrowed a friend's pump, and it didn't fit. I thought of getting a 70 mm stem for the rear, but that might look goofy. Another idea was to modify the plastic block, or even make a new one with my own magnet, but it's not necessary right now. Hopefully the Muc-Offs will work out for you.
 
Larsey said:
I love the Fillmores, but when setting up a Bosch bike with Valve mount speed sensor the Fillmore did not have enough threads to secure the sensor.
Click to expand...

Ran into the same thing; ended up buying two sizes and no issue now with the threads and now i have spares. 🤣
 
DT Swiss do an alternative magnet that goes in the rim bed inside the tyre. It is partly secured by the valve but doesn't add much thickness I don't think but can also just be stuck on elsewhere round the rim.
 
Just to go off topic; Ive just fitted a pair of EThirteen Schrader valves to my enduro bike - didnt want to drill the rims - they fit in the presta hole similar to the set BeBiker mentioned above.

Quick Fill Schrader Tubeless Valve
 
MrSimmo said:
Just to go off topic; Ive just fitted a pair of EThirteen Schrader valves to my enduro bike - didnt want to drill the rims - they fit in the presta hole similar to the set BeBiker mentioned above.

Quick Fill Schrader Tubeless Valve
Click to expand...
Those look interesting but isn't there a leakage path through the thread where the first section of the valve stem screws through the rim into the "nut" inside the rim?
Also, what happens if the thread between the first and second part of the valve stem seizes up slightly? Isn't there a risk you end up unscrewing the first part from the nut inside the rim and having to remove the tyre etc to fix?
 
G-Sport said:
Those look interesting but isn't there a leakage path through the thread where the first section of the valve stem screws through the rim into the "nut" inside the rim?
Also, what happens if the thread between the first and second part of the valve stem seizes up slightly? Isn't there a risk you end up unscrewing the first part from the nut inside the rim and having to remove the tyre etc to fix?
Click to expand...
I thought the same, there is a rubber seal on the rubber nut that goes on the inside of the rim and also the base section, and then between all of the removable sections (not sure why there is one on the cap but hey ho).

All the sections seem to have the studded (if thats the word) grippy surface so I guess you would hold the right section and unscrew the other.

It seemed to take quite a few turns to get it screwed up to the rim so you would have to loosen it a lot before it came loose.

I'm off to bike park wales with it at the weekend so will give in a proper bashing; if the tyres go flat, they'll be swapped for proper schraders :D

Here's a photo of how it looks on the rim:

image.jpg
 
I've not used the big bore valves, but I can say the muc-off valve with the attachment for an Air Tag seems impossible to tighten so it stays tight - I am constantly having to tighten the bloody thing
 
I have Hybrids on order from Amazon but just got a delay notice from them that pushed delivery into December. Has anyone ordered the big bores directly from Muc Off?
 
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