MTB Lights installation on Ep8 Rise?

[iJak]

Has anyone gotten around to this? I know it requires dropping the motor, but will the RS firmware allow lights?
the bluepaper says the rise doesn't support lights probably cause it requires the motor to be dropped in order to access the 2 electrical ports.

 

[Bigkatoomer]

EP8 RS does support lights. However, by default the lights connectors are set to 'always off'. On my M10, the only way to enable them was to use a PCE02 cable and a PC and the right etube firmware and make the change. For my second M10, I just asked the LBS to enable the connectors as part of bike prep.

It's 12v, and relatively modest current limit so don't expect more than 1000 to 1500 lumens.

 

[iJak]

Great thank you for your input. I was looking at the Magicshine ME 2000 e-Bike Headlight which is rated for 2k lumens at 12v, so i was hoping this would work out. However I am deterred from doing this now especially with the PC + cable thing and dropping the motor to get to the connectors.

 

[Bigkatoomer]

Dropping the motor out isn't that big a job. If you're not Rod (perfectionist), you might be able to get the 6 motor bolts out without removing cranks and front sprocket. I've had the motor out so often (tinkering with electronics), I hacksawed down the RHS middle bolt a shade so it came out even more easily against the chainring. I bought a second set of motor bolts from Orbea, so if I want to put neat, un-damaged bolts back in at some point, I can. I've even got that special chainring tool but have never used it.

If you're happy with above, it's a genuine 10 min job to get the motor in or out and all you need are Allen keys with ball ends and some grippy pliers.

1. Turn the bike upsidedown.
2. Get a table or bench chair the same height as the BB,so you've somewhere to rest the motor next to the bike when it's out but still wired in.
3. Undo the two chain guide bolts carefully, so as not to lose the washers (washers go between bike and guide).
4. Lift the chain off the front sprocket, and past the pedal to the back of the bike so its out the way.
5. Undo the 6 bolts on either side of the motor. Pay attention to the washers and the spacer on one of the rear bolts.

HERE'S THE BODGE
5. If doing the Will-Bodge(TM), use round-headed allen keys to carefully rotate the two bolts that are hard to reach. Do them last. For the rear, I use pointed-pliers / molegrips alongside the allen key to undo that one. For the tricker middle bolt by the chainring, be patient, and only turn the allen key head a little at a time before reseating the allen key, so as to minimise rounding the bolt head - After some turns, the remainder can be undone with fingers. This bolt can be squeezed out past the chainring, with a bit of motor wobbling. If you've time, hacksaw 2-3 mm off the end to speed that up for next time.
6. The motor is now ready to lift out carefully and place on the chair/table.

Reverse the above for reassembly, with a couple of items of note:
1/ Clearly you can't torque the 'Will-Bodge(TM)' two motor bolts, so you just have to do them up as tight as you can without rounding anything!
2/ Careful when putting the motor back not to trap a wire, particularly in the bolt flanges.
3/ Don't drop the spacer when you reinsert that bolt, as that may fall back into the motor area.
4/ Don't drop those tiny spacer of the chainguide as they may fall back into the motor area - And that's ANNOYING.

Hope that helps.

 

[iJak]

It does help thank you very much!

You should totally do a video on this! Also if there were Titanium motor bolts, I would totally get a set. I see some of the bolt edges starting to shred - and this was from Jenson USA installers.