Magura MT7 brakes drive me crazy

[Stihldog]

I posted this in another thread recently, but I’ve been ‘putting up with’ my MT7’s for years now.

When they work, they’re fantastic… but I’ve grown tired of continually having to adjust and bleed them - so have moved on.

For the first 3 or so years, they were brilliant. No issues at all. It was when I moved them onto a new bike that the problems started.
The MT7’s would feel rock solid when I rode them round the streets after a bleed. It wasn’t until mid technical descent that the front one would just go soft. I had this happen over multiple rides… where I’d spent hours climbing looking forward to the descent - which is then ruined by a lack of brakes!
They were also horrible to align, would frequently scream and howl. I replaced it with another MT7, but it wasn’t any better. Perhaps some of it was user error, but I followed every guide and video I could lay my hands on.

Enough was enough - I wasted the best part of this summer having my rides ruined by them. Last month, I managed to get my hands on Intend Trinity’s, and they’re night and day.
Bleed took about 5 mins rather than 10 attempts whilst putting the bike in various positions to ensure the lever / caliper were at the same height. Rock solid, identical bite on them both. No rubbing.
No fading whilst doing long descents, and I can get loads of power with a single finger.
Expensive - but so far I’m feeling like they’re worth the money.

If the MT7’s aren’t working for you - then change them. No point in suffering with them. I wish I’d changed them back when they started playing silly buggers about 18 months ago. I’d have had many more enjoyable rides!!

I’ve used the MT7’s for several years. One finger braking was very good but regular lever bleeds were necessary.

When my front brake began to fail I replaced the piston and seals in the master cylinder. Fairly easy and cheap. Usually a full bleed after that.

 

[Winford]

If the MT7’s aren’t working for you

Learn how to use them! Know how to bleed them properly.

Best brakes I have ever used, and I probably descended this year as far as you have in 5 years.

 

[dreys]

100% true on above

Proper bleed makes all the difference. Day after day we see folks using "shimano method" or "sram method", but all it takes to review Magura steps to bleed and bed-in brakes, and these will be the best brakes anyone can get.

But at the same time I see people here on forum asking how to change battery on the controller, even when Amflow manual download is available on both on the website, as well as sticky post here.

No shame in taking the bike to Magura dealer to ask them for help.

 

[p3eps]

Learn how to use them! Know how to bleed them properly.

Best brakes I have ever used, and I probably descended this year as far as you have in 5 years.

I did learn how to bleed them properly. Did it successfully for 3 years. My front one must have developed a leak of some sort, as it needed bled every second ride.

I’m happy you’re happy with them… and also that you think you’ve descended 5x more than me. Congratulations.

You sound like a cool person to be around

 

[Stihldog]

I must admit that the MT7’s need a a bit more attention than the MT8’s, mt5’s, or other brands of brake systems. I’ve tried to find the reason for lever softness, when that happens, but it seems to be a mystery.

Different bleeding methods, checking for small Royal Blood leaks at any connection, vibrating hoses, callipers, hose pinch points, master cylinder …pulling my hair out etc. nothing seems to work. Other than that …great brakes.


I use the Magura MDR-P rotors, (220front-203rear) Magura Preformance pads. Upgraded to the HC3 levers, replaced the master cylinder piston and seals.

I also use the 45 degree hose extension, from the master cylinder, to cleanup the cockpit. Magura olives and barbs.

All that and I still get some lever fade. The lever bleed is routine now. Insert the funnel, a few drops of Royal Blood , pump the lever, watch for the bubbles to stop escaping, replace the bleed screw.

Maybe a few months of riding and bleed again. Good brakes though. I like them.

 

[p3eps]

100% true on above

Proper bleed makes all the difference. Day after day we see folks using "shimano method" or "sram method", but all it takes to review Magura steps to bleed and bed-in brakes, and these will be the best brakes anyone can get.

But at the same time I see people here on forum asking how to change battery on the controller, even when Amflow manual download is available on both on the website, as well as sticky post here.

No shame in taking the bike to Magura dealer to ask them for help.

There must be 10+ recommended methods and tutorials for bleeding Magura though. I found the one by The Yorkshire Mechanic to be the most effective - better than anything Magura produced. It involved pulling a vacuum, and also making sure that the levers and calipers are at the same height.

It worked and ended up with solid pressure (for my first 3 years). Sadly, in my 4th year it just wouldn’t remain solid after a ride of two.

The Intend brakes are an absolute breeze to bleed in comparison. Brakes can stay on the bike in position, and there is never any air left in the system after a single pass. They also have a block screw at the caliper to lock in the pressure.

A more powerful brake, easier to bleed… but about 6x the price.

 

[Astro66]

Once the MT7 brakes are bled and there are no air leaks, you'll have years of no issues. I just changed my rear pads last week. It was simple as. The brakes are still perfect.

Yes it took my 30 mins to align the calipers, where Shimano takes about 5 mins. The clearances are really tight, so your rotors also need to be perfectly true. Trueing the rotors was part of the 30min process.

If I ever need to bleed them, and I am having trouble. My LBS charges AUD$60 to bleed them. I would just get them to do it, and have many more years of brillant braking, without spending stupid money.

Hydraulic Brakes are just a hydraulic system no matter which brakes you are using. As long as the cylinders are moving free, there is no air in the system or it's drawing air in, and the oil is correct and not contaminated. They will work perfectly no matter which of the major manufacturers you use. If you are having problems. I will be 99.9% of the time, user error. Just pay for help.

 

[Winford]

lever softness

You would think the only possibility is air is still trapped somewhere.

I shortened my front brake hose because it was too long from the factory. I used a cup on the master like it was a shimano, and had to use the brake lever to pump the fluid back down into a syringe, then pumped the fluid back up, but it took multiple times, like 10 X just to get the bubbles out. A lot of times just tapping on the master brought eh bubbles up quicker than the typical methods. Whole process was about half an hour. Shimano is 10 min tops.

The lever bleed is routine now

which really points to air being trapped.

 

[Winford]

must have developed a leak of some sort, as it needed bled every second ride.

100% Air gets trapped in these like no other brake system ive ever worked on. And it is in the master cylinder.

You would think there would be a visible wet spot. Ill use a sheet of toilet paper to look for leaks.

 

[Winford]

They also have a block screw at the caliper to lock in the pressure.

dont try that with shimano, they have a relief valve in the master and it will dump fluid everywhere

 

[Stihldog]

You would think there would be a visible wet spot. I’ll use a sheet of toilet paper to look for leaks.

I tried that also.
It’s a friggen mystery. Where does that Royal Blood go? No leaks, no pad contamination, no evidence of leaks …I don’t even like the taste (ask me how I know).

It was suggested somewhere that air was entering through the hydraulic brake hose. That didn’t make sense either. When I do a lever bleed I only add /use a few drops of Royal blood to the funnel (or syringe) and pump the lever. I watch for bubbles to rise. Some bubbles are large. Some are small.

I tap and rotate the master cylinder, hoses and calliper. In desperation I’ve also used an electric vibrating toothbrush and touch everything.

When the bubbles stop rising in the funnel …I stop. That usually does it. The brakes operate normally (and really good), until the next lever bleed is needed.

On a side note; I don’t securely clamp the master cylinder to my bar. They can be rotated with some slight force from one hand. In the event of a crash, or clipping a tree, the master cylinder can easily rotate and then be returned to the correct angle or position.

I love Magura brakes and hate them at the same time.

 

[Winford]

vibrating toothbrush

that is just about the extent of every trick I know

don’t securely clamp the master cylinder to my bar

100% as do I. Old motorcycle trick to not snap as many levers

hate them at the same time.

I can see why. Frustrating I know. We will see how long my love affair with them last.

Right now shimano cant compete with lever feel and ease of pad changes. Shimano takes constant tweaking to keep that lever all the way out like a new bike, and pads? 6 weeks tops 4 if im getting after it. I think this is a choice of which evil you want to deal with, hope you get some luck here.

 

[EDventure_Outdoors]

My front caliper appears to be leaking because dirt is collecting on it. Bike shop of course says it's fine. It's been bled twice and needs to be again along with the rear brake. The lever feel when bled is great but these are too high maintenance for me. One more bleeding session and I'm out.

 

[Scott_123]

I have dealt with the MT7 breaks that came on my Amflow Carbon Pro for about 750 miles. I have bled them once and they were as easy as SRAM and Shimano, and did make a difference. I love the shape of the brake levers and I like the fact that the bite point remains consistent unlike Shimano and to a lesser degree SRAM. I also believe the MT7 modulates very well compared to others. The only thing I don’t like is tiny clearance between the pads and the rotor compared to others. If the tiniest thing is slightly off they will rub. Never had Magura before but I kinda like them….mostly.

 

[CarolinaCrawler]

My front caliper appears to be leaking because dirt is collecting on it. Bike shop of course says it's fine. It's been bled twice and needs to be again along with the rear brake. The lever feel when bled is great but these are too high maintenance for me. One more bleeding session and I'm out.

You might want to contact Magura. They have a 5 year leak free warranty. They are really good at taking care of their customers.

 

[Stihldog]

My front caliper appears to be leaking because dirt is collecting on it. Bike shop of course says it's fine. It's been bled twice and needs to be again along with the rear brake. The lever feel when bled is great but these are too high maintenance for me. One more bleeding session and I'm out.

It seems to be the nature of MT7 brakes. Great feel and modulation, but more frequent lever bleeds. It can be frustrating if you prefer a low maintenance brake system.

I exchanged a Shimano brake system for a MT7 brake system once. The guy had enough of the regular bleeding needed. I didn’t hesitate and did the complete exchange and installation myself. We were both happy.…but I think I got the better deal.

I’ve never seen or heard of Magura callipers leaking. I’ve checked many times …no evidence whatsoever. Calliper alignment can be difficult sometimes …but that’s usually a set-it-forget-it.

Besides the nice and expensive HC3 Magura levers I’ve replaced the lever piston and seals on a few systems. (fairly cheap and easy to install). A thorough inspection for leaks and cracks at the same time.

A lever bleed for me is fairly fast. I keep the tools and Royal Blood close by.

 

[StuE]

Shigura worked well for me

 

[EMTB718]

Has anyone successfully installed different brake set for your Amflow? Was wondering how hard it was to install the brake set. Especially the rear one. Did you have to pull the motor or battery? If not, how difficult was it to run brake hose from the front to rear. Based on research, looks like there is area near the motor which can be very tight.

After trying different things, I still don't have success in getting rid of the brake noise. Now, for some reason, pads touch the rotor when going up hill or sometimes going down. Even when I turn, I get pads touching the rotor and unlike a normal brake noise, it's like a grinding noise (yes, it the pads touching the rotor). When I put the bike on a stand, no touching or issues. Only when I ride so hard to figure out what the issue is. Checked with Chat GPT, supposedly may have to do with frame and fork flexing and that even if its minimal, it can rub and supposedly, more common on MT7 brake set. This started to happen after I got new pads (Galfer Purple) and MDR-P rotors. Previously, I also had Galfer Purple pads also.

I tried OEM brakes, Galfer Purple, sand down the Oem Storm rotors, put 2nd set of new HC Storm Rotors, MDR-C rotors and now MDR-P. Noise is still there and now it even makes grinding noise.

I check the axle bolt both front and rear and they are on correctly. Center the pads and rotors so it doesn't rub but again, it starts to rub when going up, down, turns + brake noise in general.

4 out of 5 bikes I have use Magura Rotors (Storm or MDR-C Rotors) and all using Galfer Purple pads. No issues what so ever including zero to very very minimal noise with exception of Amflow which has MT7. 3 of the bike has Shimano Brake set 7120, 8120 and 9120 and 1 uses Code RSC brakes.

I really like MT7 brakes. Love the lever and also the modulation but just can't get rid of the noise and now grinding noise. Tried bedding then after sanding original rotor, after installed new pads and new rotors and now again new pads and new rotors (MDR-P) but no luck. I have new set of Hayes Dominion A4 brake set which is been lying around for a about a year and with all these issues with MT7, I am looking to change it but bit concern as how difficult it will be to put a hose to the rear.

Any input will be appreciated.

 

[Charley_Phogg]

I'm running 7120's on my PL with metallic pads and have no noise. But I had the dealer install them before I purchased the bike since he had a like new pair at a good deal.

I would think you could use one of those double ended threaded connectors for internal routing using the existing brake hose to pull the new on through. Or the Park Tool IR-1.3 internal routing kit (or equivalent) using the existing hose to pull the cable through then hooking it up to new hose to pull it back.

When I installed the power cable on my bike I had to drop the drive unit and used the Park Kit to pull the power cable through the swing arm using the shift cable housing I had the dealer leave in the bike when he installed my X0 T-type derailleur. It worked great. Dropping the drive unit isn't a big deal but it would be a lot easier and faster if you don't have to do it.

 

[earthmover]

Interesting problems that people are having. I have had my PL Pro for 16 months now, and with it my first experience of MT7's. Very soon after purchase, I made the mistake of transporting the bike to Scotland on a rear carrier when the roads had been gritted, then compounded that mistake by going for a beer (or two) when I got there instead of cleaning the bike off. Did two days at Glentress with lubing the chain being the only maintenance, then drove home. Imagine my surprise at finding the rotors were rusty? Entirely my own fault. Swapped the rotors for a set of Hope floating (black, obviously) as a mainly aesthetic fix, but as I have them on all my current, and previous bikes, I'm possibly a fan.
The performance of the MT7's, with both the original rotor and the Hope's, was best described as "adequate" with the original pads. After a chat with my LBS, I tried Uberbike blue pads, which were a revelation! Must more stopping power and feel! I do agree with some of the posters that set up can be sensitive, but once dialled in mine have been problem free. I do remove the pads, clean, and push back the pistons regularly, especially in UK wet and muddy conditions (ie 9 months of the year)
Hope this helps
Mark

 

[EDventure_Outdoors]

Has anyone successfully installed different brake set for your Amflow? Was wondering how hard it was to install the brake set. Especially the rear one. Did you have to pull the motor or battery? If not, how difficult was it to run brake hose from the front to rear. Based on research, looks like there is area near the motor which can be very tight.

After trying different things, I still don't have success in getting rid of the brake noise. Now, for some reason, pads touch the rotor when going up hill or sometimes going down. Even when I turn, I get pads touching the rotor and unlike a normal brake noise, it's like a grinding noise (yes, it the pads touching the rotor). When I put the bike on a stand, no touching or issues. Only when I ride so hard to figure out what the issue is. Checked with Chat GPT, supposedly may have to do with frame and fork flexing and that even if its minimal, it can rub and supposedly, more common on MT7 brake set. This started to happen after I got new pads (Galfer Purple) and MDR-P rotors. Previously, I also had Galfer Purple pads also.

I tried OEM brakes, Galfer Purple, sand down the Oem Storm rotors, put 2nd set of new HC Storm Rotors, MDR-C rotors and now MDR-P. Noise is still there and now it even makes grinding noise.

I check the axle bolt both front and rear and they are on correctly. Center the pads and rotors so it doesn't rub but again, it starts to rub when going up, down, turns + brake noise in general.

4 out of 5 bikes I have use Magura Rotors (Storm or MDR-C Rotors) and all using Galfer Purple pads. No issues what so ever including zero to very very minimal noise with exception of Amflow which has MT7. 3 of the bike has Shimano Brake set 7120, 8120 and 9120 and 1 uses Code RSC brakes.

I really like MT7 brakes. Love the lever and also the modulation but just can't get rid of the noise and now grinding noise. Tried bedding then after sanding original rotor, after installed new pads and new rotors and now again new pads and new rotors (MDR-P) but no luck. I have new set of Hayes Dominion A4 brake set which is been lying around for a about a year and with all these issues with MT7, I am looking to change it but bit concern as how difficult it will be to put a hose to the rear.

Any input will be appreciated.

I used the Park Tool when pulling the old hose. Unfortunately, pulling the new one through was not as easy. It got caught on an internal zip tie at the base of the motor. The motor had to be pulled which was "much" easier than expected. Remove bottom cover and two bolts. The cranks do not need removed or unplugging the connectors.

 

[Gauss Guzzler]

It's quite easy to replace the rear brake hose. Those barb joiners posted above are helpful but not even remotely necessary. Just clean the hoses and tape them together with something reasonable like packing tape. The battery section is not tight and the built-in clamp/guides don't really grip the hose anyway so they're a non-issue once loosened a little.

You do have to drop the motor, of course. There are a few cables zip-tied to the brake hose. The whole job is easiest with the bike upside down. Just put the derailleur in the fully forward service position and you'll have enough slack to lift the motor without even needing to jump the chainring.

Or you could work on centering your calipers. I shine a flashlight on the background behind the caliper so I can see the gap between each pad and the rotor, then simply adjust until the gaps are fairly even.

 

[Stihldog]

It's quite easy to replace the rear brake hose. Those barb joiners posted above are helpful but not even remotely necessary. Just clean the hoses and tape them together with something reasonable like packing tape. The battery section is not tight and the built-in clamp/guides don't really grip the hose anyway so they're a non-issue once loosened a little.

You do have to drop the motor, of course. There are a few cables zip-tied to the brake hose. The whole job is easiest with the bike upside down. Just put the derailleur in the fully forward service position and you'll have enough slack to lift the motor without even needing to jump the chainring.

Or you could work on centering your calipers. I shine a flashlight on the background behind the caliper so I can see the gap between each pad and the rotor, then simply adjust until the gaps are fairly even.

I noticed on the new Trek Rail Gen5 that the rear brake host does not pass through the motor compartment. Which is better imo. The brake line is 5-8” exposed around the bottom bracket area. It doesn’t look like the motor needs to be dropped …but I’m gonna find out soon. (Installing Magura brakes on a gen5 this week (maybe).

 

[Arminius]

I must admit that the MT7’s need a a bit more attention than the MT8’s, mt5’s, or other brands of brake systems. I’ve tried to find the reason for lever softness, when that happens, but it seems to be a mystery.

Different bleeding methods, checking for small Royal Blood leaks at any connection, vibrating hoses, callipers, hose pinch points, master cylinder …pulling my hair out etc. nothing seems to work. Other than that …great brakes.

View attachment 173409
I use the Magura MDR-P rotors, (220front-203rear) Magura Preformance pads. Upgraded to the HC3 levers, replaced the master cylinder piston and seals.

I also use the 45 degree hose extension, from the master cylinder, to cleanup the cockpit. Magura olives and barbs.

All that and I still get some lever fade. The lever bleed is routine now. Insert the funnel, a few drops of Royal Blood , pump the lever, watch for the bubbles to stop escaping, replace the bleed screw.

Maybe a few months of riding and bleed again. Good brakes though. I like them.

I was looking around if I could use Royal Blood also on Shimano brake on the other bike nd found this - maybe it helps:

A response by Trickstuff:
„The defect on the primary seal can be more or less pronounced. If the fault is only very small, the pressure is sometimes sufficient to pump the slave pistons to the disc. Often, with such small defects, it is even the case with fast and strong pressure build-up, the seal is pressed so hard against the cylinder wall that it seals well again, while with only a small pull on the lever (see video above) oil flows through the fault point and the lever moves slowly to the handlebar.“

Video: Druckpunktwandern: Shimano SLX mit Putoline HPX R 2.5 auf MTB-News.de

Druckpunktwandern: Shimano SLX mit Putoline HPX R 2.5

videos.mtb-news.de

 

[Stihldog]

I was looking around if I could use Royal Blood also on Shimano brake on the other bike nd found this - maybe it helps:

A response by Trickstuff:
„The defect on the primary seal can be more or less pronounced. If the fault is only very small, the pressure is sometimes sufficient to pump the slave pistons to the disc. Often, with such small defects, it is even the case with fast and strong pressure build-up, the seal is pressed so hard against the cylinder wall that it seals well again, while with only a small pull on the lever (see video above) oil flows through the fault point and the lever moves slowly to the handlebar.“

Video: Druckpunktwandern: Shimano SLX mit Putoline HPX R 2.5 auf MTB-News.de

Druckpunktwandern: Shimano SLX mit Putoline HPX R 2.5

videos.mtb-news.de

Yeah, I keep a variety of lotions and potions on the shelf but I haven’t mixed up the mineral oils (Royal Blood, Shimano, SRAM, and even some DOT fluid.)

I guess I’m too worried to experiment and become a chemist .

 

[Arminius]

Yeah, I keep a variety of lotions and potions on the shelf but I haven’t mixed up the mineral oils (Royal Blood, Shimano, SRAM, and even some DOT fluid.)

I guess I’m too worried to experiment and become a chemist .

Hi Stihldog,
Maybe I was misleading? I did not mean mixing the oils. I thought the comment on the defective sealing of the main cylinder could be explanation for your trouble - if you did not check before.

PS: Trickstuff is doing brake pads etc here in Europe and the US, but not CD and the guy is active in a german forum from where I picked the comment.

 

[Stihldog]

Hi Stihldog,
Maybe I was misleading? I did not mean mixing the oils. I thought the comment on the defective sealing of the main cylinder could be explanation for your trouble - if you did not check before.

Yeah yeah no, you weren’t misleading. I think it could be wear and tear on the seals or perhaps the walls of the master cylinder. I think that’s what you meant?

Gawd!…id never mix mineral oils either. Could start a fire or end all life on this planet.