Levo SL Gen 1 Levo SL 2023 Megathread

[Rich-H]

Guessing we will see the new 520Wh battery that has just launched in the Vado SL 2 in the Levo and Kenevo SL shortly...

 

[Marshall Willanholly]

Guessing we will see the new 520Wh battery that has just launched in the Vado SL 2 in the Levo and Kenevo SL shortly...

View attachment 155602

Looks like a new Mastermind display too.

 

[G-Sport]

Guessing we will see the new 520Wh battery that has just launched in the Vado SL 2 in the Levo and Kenevo SL shortly...

View attachment 155602

Interesting. I wonder if they managed to squeeze it into the same space, be awesome if this was an easy upgrade for older bikes. New SL1.2 motor, mastermind MCU and this battery as an upgrade kit would be sweet.

 

[G-Sport]

Looks like a new Mastermind display too.

Handlebar display though

 

[sluette]

Looks like a new Mastermind display too.

I hope they leave it on the urban bikes…

 

[Chrysaor]

Guessing we will see the new 520Wh battery that has just launched in the Vado SL 2 in the Levo and Kenevo SL shortly...

View attachment 155602

It has been released half a year ago already but yeah would be a nice capacity for the SL bikes while being still reasonably light. The downtube of the Vado is much wider than the current Levo/Kenevo SL though so it will not be an upgrade for the current models I'm afraid

 

[DylanJM]

Zero chance that this is coming over to the Levo/Kenevo imo. Vado SL 2 downtube is massive compared to Levo/Kenevo.

 

[sluette]

Yes! And the large battery would increase the weight near to non SL level…

 

[Rich-H]

Vado SL 1 was running the 320Wh battery, yes it does look like the size of the downtube might have increased on the Vado SL 2 so maybe it won't make it into the current generation of the Levo/Kenevo SL.

 

[Streddaz]

5 years on, 16,000+km and 210 charge cycles and I finally had to change the TCU battery.

Also got a good tip on getting the battery out. No tweezers or screwdrivers required. Just unplug the TCU and open up the rubber port cover and with the battery opening facing down, tap the TCU firmly onto your palm or a rubber pad and the battery just pops out!

 

[Losiak]

5 years on, 16,000+km and 210 charge cycles and I finally had to change the TCU battery.

Also got a good tip on getting the battery out. No tweezers or screwdrivers required. Just unplug the TCU and open up the rubber port cover and with the battery opening facing down, tap the TCU firmly onto your palm or a rubber pad and the battery just pops out!

I have to do it also TCU battery after almost 5 years and around 20.000 km but my main battery shows now 90% and I feel that it drops lot faster :/

 

[Streddaz]

I have to do it also TCU battery after almost 5 years and around 20.000 km but my main battery shows now 90% and I feel that it drops lot faster :/

My main battery is still showing 100% health, which I wouldn't think would be true by now. It still seems to perform ok though.

 

[Mark24]

Anyone got a Pro or above 1.2 motor size S4 for sale or thinking of selling, drop me a message

 

[cosas_genericas]

I had exactly the same issue and unfortunately you have to drop the motor

Any advice? I’m replacing my transmission with Shimano and just noticed my carbon (unlike the aluminum) version does not have any tubing for the rear derailleur.

 

[cosas_genericas]

I assembled the frameset and had to drop the motor for the rear mech cable and seatpost one. Someone on here suggested leaving the rear two bolts in and swinging it down, that worked really well for me and I didn’t have to unplug anything. All my motor bolts were loose so I assumed I was expected to drop the motor.

Do you have a guide or any photos that you followed?

 

[Clubby]

Picked up my 2024 Comp yesterday. Sold my full power e-bike a couple of years back but had an itch that needed scratching. Saw the bike at a cracking price and gave in. Not my first choice colour wise but for a 2.5 grand saving, I can easily live with it. Today’s job is swapping the carbon wheels and better fork from the enduro bike it’s replacing. It’s already only a couple of kilos heavier than it (Transition Sentinel), so these swaps should put it even closer.

Never ridden a lower power E bike and hoping I don’t miss the extra grunt. TBH I never rode the Bosch motor in boost much, so I don’t think it should be a problem.

Excited for test day out tomorrow.

 

[snotrag]

Picked up a bargain range extender today, but it has the wrong cable - 160mm version for the old Levo SL, not the 145mm version for the current Levo SL.
Anyone run the 'wrong' cable? Any obvious issues assuming I get it tucked out of the way of anything it could catch?

Not mega bucks for a new cable, but if I dont need it...

 

[dirt-diggler]

Ive made the decision to sell my levo SL, going to try sell just the frame set as I like my parts

So if anyone wants a levo SL alloy S4 frame in green with a years warranty left on it and under 300 miles let me know, advert will be up this weekend

 

[p3eps]

What brakes does everyone have on their Levo SL?

I've had Magura MT7's on my Gen1 and on my Gen2 over the course of over 5 years now... but they're starting to really annoy me. When they work, they work great... good modulation and power. The bleeding is an absolute nightmare, and I've had several rides where they feel rock solid on the fire roads... and then go limp when on the downhill trail. Usually completely ruins the ride as there's little point in continuing when 1 brake is useless.

I'm looking for an alternative... and wondered what everyone else uses.

A few key things I need from brakes...

• Decent power... although my Levo SL is a little over 17kgs (and I'm about 80kg)... so I maybe don't need 'ebike specific'?
• Modulation. I love the feel of the MT7's when they're actually working properly.
• Reasonably light weight. I've spent a load of money making my bike as light as possible - but still to a decent spec. The MT7's are about 280g each, so pack a good punch for their weight.
• Easy maintenance. My biggest bugbear with the MT7's is the bleeding process. Something simple would be good.
• Cost - I'm not on a particular budget, but at the same time don't want to spend ridiculous money! Trickstuff direttissima in light blue would look amazing on my bike - but £1100 is stupid!

I'd like the ability to fit a carbon lever if possible. Why? Because I have Reynauds Syndrome - which means I have perpetually cold hands (especially in the winter). A carbon lever stays much warmer to touch in the winter than an aluminium one does! Not a deal breaker though.

 

[Doomanic]

I have Hayes Dominion A4s on my Kenevo SL. Loads of power and modulation but I wouldn't say they are easy to bleed. £150 an end if you hunt around.

 

[cosas_genericas]

I have Hayes Dominion A4s on my Kenevo SL. Loads of power and modulation but I wouldn't say they are easy to bleed. £150 an end if you hunt around.

I loved these brakes but the ergonomics didn’t work for me. Tons of power though. I have xl hands and prefer hope tech v4s, the cura 4s which are no where near as strong as the Hayes or hopes but light years ahead of sram codes and much more modulation than mavens

 

[Streddaz]

What brakes does everyone have on their Levo SL?

I've had Magura MT7's on my Gen1 and on my Gen2 over the course of over 5 years now... but they're starting to really annoy me. When they work, they work great... good modulation and power. The bleeding is an absolute nightmare, and I've had several rides where they feel rock solid on the fire roads... and then go limp when on the downhill trail. Usually completely ruins the ride as there's little point in continuing when 1 brake is useless.

I'm looking for an alternative... and wondered what everyone else uses.

A few key things I need from brakes...

• Decent power... although my Levo SL is a little over 17kgs (and I'm about 80kg)... so I maybe don't need 'ebike specific'?
• Modulation. I love the feel of the MT7's when they're actually working properly.
• Reasonably light weight. I've spent a load of money making my bike as light as possible - but still to a decent spec. The MT7's are about 280g each, so pack a good punch for their weight.
• Easy maintenance. My biggest bugbear with the MT7's is the bleeding process. Something simple would be good.
• Cost - I'm not on a particular budget, but at the same time don't want to spend ridiculous money! Trickstuff direttissima in light blue would look amazing on my bike - but £1100 is stupid!

I'd like the ability to fit a carbon lever if possible. Why? Because I have Reynauds Syndrome - which means I have perpetually cold hands (especially in the winter). A carbon lever stays much warmer to touch in the winter than an aluminium one does! Not a deal breaker though.

I have SRAM Code R on my SL. They are pretty good and never had to bleed them. I wouldn't mind the pad adjust of the RSC version though as you can keep the same lever throw as the pads wear.

 

[p3eps]

I have SRAM Code R on my SL. They are pretty good and never had to bleed them. I wouldn't mind the pad adjust of the RSC version though as you can keep the same lever throw as the pads wear.

I was reading about the SRAM Motive's yesterday - I think they're the new equivalent of the Code? They get pretty good reviews, but are the same price as the Mavens. Mavens get a really good write up, but nearly every review says how heavy they are!

I bled the MT7's again yesterday and they were spot on again on my few laps round the block. Will have to try and get a short ride over some bumpy stuff to see if they turn to mush again!

I have Hayes Dominion A4s on my Kenevo SL. Loads of power and modulation but I wouldn't say they are easy to bleed. £150 an end if you hunt around.

These also get great reviews. The thing that seems to let them down is build quality. Have you had any issues?

I like the sound of the new Magura Gustav Pro, where you can 'quick connect' your brake lines without losing any pressure. They also claim to be very easy to bleed. Not many real reviews of them out at the moment though.

I assume anything that's new would have been announced at Sea Otter over the weekend? I hate buying something and a new model coming out a few weeks later

 

[Doomanic]

The thing that seems to let them down is build quality. Have you had any issues?

No issues here, but I wasn't aware build quality was poor. I'm going to be paranoid on my next ride now, thanks...

 

[Chrysaor]

I have SRAM Code R on my SL. They are pretty good and never had to bleed them. I wouldn't mind the pad adjust of the RSC version though as you can keep the same lever throw as the pads wear.

I also have the Code R on my KSL. I had the RSC in the past and the pad adjust is not super useful as I had the adjuster to winded the minimum all the time, the range was not enough to really compensate pad wear so I don't really miss them. I did not feel any power difference due to the lack of swing link neither.
I genuinely don't understand what people do with the Code not to be happy with them, they have more than enough power in the Alps for me, I am very thorough with bleeding, pads and alignment though. I ride organic pads when cold and metallic in Spring/Summer for longer descents and warmer weather with Shimano ice tech rotors.

 

[wolfbane1967]

Hi, just bought a Levo SL 2. Strange sound
Is this normal, when cycling sometimes it sounds like the motor revs up in a wining sound when changing down gears or stop peddling. Not shure exactly when I comes. It does it randomly. Just new on the bike with less then 300km on it .
Thanks in advance for you thoughts if yo know if this is normal on this engine

 

[cosas_genericas]

I also have the Code R on my KSL. I had the RSC in the past and the pad adjust is not super useful as I had the adjuster to winded the minimum all the time, the range was not enough to really compensate pad wear so I don't really miss them. I did not feel any power difference due to the lack of swing link neither.
I genuinely don't understand what people do with the Code not to be happy with them, they have more than enough power in the Alps for me, I am very thorough with bleeding, pads and alignment though. I ride organic pads when cold and metallic in Spring/Summer for longer descents and warmer weather with Shimano ice tech rotors.

Different levels of skill, trails, etc. Codes are a last generation braking system that fall behind many competitors.

 

[levity]

Hi, just bought a Levo SL 2. Strange sound
Is this normal, when cycling sometimes it sounds like the motor revs up in a wining sound when changing down gears or stop peddling. Not shure exactly when I comes. It does it randomly. Just new on the bike with less then 300km on it .
Thanks in advance for you thoughts if yo know if this is normal on this engine

My SL2 does not behave in the way you describe. There can be a slight “overrun“ at high assist levels, but it is very brief and not troublesome or disconcerting.

Unfortunately, I don’t know of any ”reset” you can do, so you may have to take it to a dealer shop to remedy. I’d be interested in hearing what you learn.

 

[wolfbane1967]

My SL2 does not behave in the way you describe. There can be a slight “overrun“ at high assist levels, but it is very brief and not troublesome or disconcerting.

Unfortunately, I don’t know of any ”reset” you can do, so you may have to take it to a dealer shop to remedy. I’d be interested in hearing what you learn.

Thanks, il take it to my dealer and let them test it. Let you all know

 

[cañonaco]

Hi, just bought a Levo SL 2. Strange sound
Is this normal, when cycling sometimes it sounds like the motor revs up in a wining sound when changing down gears or stop peddling. Not shure exactly when I comes. It does it randomly. Just new on the bike with less then 300km on it .
Thanks in advance for you thoughts if yo know if this is normal on this engine

That’s normal!
I have Levo SL2, Kenevo SL2 and Creo SL2 at home.