Levo SL Gen 1 Levo SL 2023 Megathread
- Thread starter Killswitch73
- Start date
That’s pretty much it
You can
To do that you need the bushing tool to remove it from the shock eyelet
The top one you need 20mm width with 8mm inner diameter and the bottom one it has to be without DU bushing (see pic below)
One more thing about all these videos
At the end you can see how the chain is tensioned and compare with my bikes
I didn't release any air or shock has not been removed so I'd skip this part of video and save some time
Thanks...
Do I just buy something like this and knock the existing one out? I wasn't sure if it'd have to go back somewhere to be modified?
Fox Rockshox Rear Shock Bushing Kit for MTB DH Bikes High Quality and Durable | eBay
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I'll have a look at the chain length tonight. I'll need to take a heap of air out of the shock to get the sag for adjusting the B-gap!
You can buy one of these from ebay but then you have to replace your DU bushing (read description from auction)Thanks...
Do I just buy something like this and knock the existing one out? I wasn't sure if it'd have to go back somewhere to be modified?
Fox Rockshox Rear Shock Bushing Kit for MTB DH Bikes High Quality and Durable | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Fox Rockshox Rear Shock Bushing Kit for MTB DH Bikes High Quality and Durable at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.www.ebay.co.uk
I'll have a look at the chain length tonight. I'll need to take a heap of air out of the shock to get the sag for adjusting the B-gap!
To do that you need the bushing tool to remove it from the shock eyelet
The top one you need 20mm width with 8mm inner diameter and the bottom one it has to be without DU bushing (see pic below)
One more thing about all these videos
At the end you can see how the chain is tensioned and compare with my bikes
I didn't release any air or shock has not been removed so I'd skip this part of video and save some time
Here is the bushing tool from tf tunedThanks...
Do I just buy something like this and knock the existing one out? I wasn't sure if it'd have to go back somewhere to be modified?
Fox Rockshox Rear Shock Bushing Kit for MTB DH Bikes High Quality and Durable | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Fox Rockshox Rear Shock Bushing Kit for MTB DH Bikes High Quality and Durable at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.www.ebay.co.uk
I'll have a look at the chain length tonight. I'll need to take a heap of air out of the shock to get the sag for adjusting the B-gap!
I asked J-tech about this - since I bought it from them originally. They've suggested that as the leverage curve for the new SL is different to the original, I should have it re-tuned.
I think my best bet is to ride the Float X for a few weeks, and return the Super Deluxe for service / re-tune... and they'll swap the bushing at the same time.
My LBS are expecting one any day… but I think it’s only available in the mint green colour?
I understood from my LBS that there should also have a black version but I never saw any picture…
I don't know about pricing in other countries but here in the UK the frame only option seems to represent the best bang for your buck. Once you allow for the range extender (included with frame only) there is nearly a £5,000 difference to the Pro and £7500 to S-Works.
No way it would cost anywhere like that kind of money to build up frame only option to either of those specs...
No way it would cost anywhere like that kind of money to build up frame only option to either of those specs...
Last edited:
Yes and no...
I bought the frame only for £5750, and have transferred all of my existing bits.
I think maybe at £7000, the Comp might be better value as you get a whole bike... and there may be some bits that you want to keep.
Even though I'm transferring parts off my existing bike, I'm still likely to be buying a T-Type Transmission (about £1500) and a new wheelset (about £1900).
According to the forum, there is going to be very little value in selling my old SL frame - so I'd maybe have been better with a Comp and rebuilding my old bike with the spare parts and being able to sell it as a 'bike' rather than spares? I don't like any of the Comp colours, so that wasn't really any option!
I'll get something back for the frame, my carbon SL1.1 cranks, XX1 AXS derailleur, XX1 cassette / chain... and I'll keep my old wheels.
Overall, the upgrade will still end up costing me about £6.5-7k though!
On another note, when the prices / specs were leaked, I spent 30 mins pricing up all the parts to build an S-Works to the same spec. It's not the spec I would personally want, but it came to about £11k if I remember correctly.
There's definitely a saving there if you're prepared to order the parts in and build it up yourself. I'm sure I could have got a lot of the parts cheaper if I'd shopped around too.
I think that's the key point, you make a saving even when you price up the parts at RRP. In reality though, you would never pay RRP as there are some big saving to be had on parts if you shop around...
Just an update on this...
The bottom bearing fits the new bike fine, however the top bearing is slightly taller than the stock one - and doesn't fit in either the standard or adjustable cup. I contacted Chris King and asked if they have a 'spare' I can buy that's the equivalent of an FSA "TH MR 1211 1-1/8 45° 45° G2" bearing. They're replied and asked me to measure the ream depth - so I've had the metrology department at work do that for me... and I've sent them the results. Hopefully I can buy a top bearing on it's own to have a custom set!
The same stock bearing works with both the 'normal' cup and the -1 to +1 cup, so I can't see why someone was advised that the CK one would work in one configuration and not the other?
I was just going with the cheapest one that appeared in Google under the sponsored bit. I'm sure if I'd dug a bit deeper, I would have found some much better prices. I imagine most people ordering a wheelset would pick a different brand, and the same with the handlebars / saddle. Personally I'd be taking MT7's over the Code Stealth brakes - which are really expensive (probably because they're new).
Having said that - not everyone has the time or inclination to build a bike from bits, and would rather pay to have it ready to ride from the shop!
I needed to release most of the air from my shock anyway to set the b-gap on my derailleur, so I tried it using the method SRAM recommend (the same as Park Tool).
Oddly… my chain is too short by a link.
I run 2 chains, and swap them over and clean them thoroughly in the degreasing bath at work every 150 miles - so I’ll have to check my other one is the same length. Anyway, I have a load of spare links… so added 1 and set everything up.
Once I’d set the B-Gap, the shifting was spot on, so I took the bike for a quick ride round the streets.
The S4 feels like a kids bike compared to my XL, and will take a bit of getting used to.
The motor seems significantly quieter, and seems a lot more punchy on my Eco 30/80 setting. I might dial it back to 25/80 to make it more like my previous bike.
I set Turbo up as 100/100, but round the streets it didn’t feel to have much more go to it than the previous bike… but that was mainly flat.
Tomorrow evening (if it’s not bucketing!), I’ll hopefully get an hour and a half out on the bike before it’s dark to take it 20 miles round some forest paths / fire tracks / cycle paths to try and familiarise myself with the size… before taking it to some real trails!
It’ll also give me a chance to test the motor on some steep(ish) climbs that I know well and see how it performs and sounds.
Still not overly impressed with battery life on the new bike. I finish every ride about 11%-20% low ish power 35/35 eco 35/50 trail turbo not used. Doing roughly 18-20 mile rides at 92kg. Definitely like the bike but my friends rise is a lot better on battery life without having to reduce power as substantially. We’re same weight and height. Still enjoying the bike but glad it isn’t my only bike!
cjc.emtb
Member
The Orbea Rise has a bigger battery.
MLX John
Active member
That is significantly worse than what I used to get with my LSL1, especially at those power levels. Anyone else have similar experiences with range?
nicknameless
Member
Can't comment on range as only had the bike for a short test spell. Just got back on my gen 1. Geo definitely a step up on the gen 2, but motor apart from noise I really cannot tell a significant difference.
I weigh the same as you, during my last ride I did 19,15 miles with 1850ft elevation.
I used 40/40, 60/60, 100/100
Spent 80% on ECO, 17% on TRAIL and 3% TURBO which lead me using 65% of the battery.
I live in Europe and the bike cuts at 15,5mph from what I heard slower than US bikes but I guess it does not explain the differences we have in terms of range…
Anyone else ?
cjc.emtb
Member
Did you change the factory settings?
nicknameless
Member
yep chucked it on 100/100 turbo. I may have simply been moving a little faster imperceptibly. Motor is smoother and quieter admittedly and probably is a slight gain - but in itself would definitely not get me on one.
I was hoping to give an accurate range test tonight having done a specific route on my old SL and being left with 51%, I went to do the same again.
Unfortunately, half way round my route, my chain snapped and I had to get my father in-law to come collect me as I’d forgotten my backpack with tools! I was in such a rush to get out I also forgot my cycling glasses and earphones too!
I was riding the new bike at 20/80, and I’m normally 30/80, and the new motor seemed to offer much more assistance. I think I’ll need to dial it down to 15/80 for my default setting.
I also think my battery usage was going to be quite a bit more than the same route on my SL1.1… but obviously I never got to the end! I was at 70% remaining, and I wasn’t even half way.
I had a little shot of trail (60/80) and turbo (100/100) before charging the bike… and I really struggled to tell the difference between trail and turbo.
Unfortunately, half way round my route, my chain snapped and I had to get my father in-law to come collect me as I’d forgotten my backpack with tools! I was in such a rush to get out I also forgot my cycling glasses and earphones too!
I was riding the new bike at 20/80, and I’m normally 30/80, and the new motor seemed to offer much more assistance. I think I’ll need to dial it down to 15/80 for my default setting.
I also think my battery usage was going to be quite a bit more than the same route on my SL1.1… but obviously I never got to the end! I was at 70% remaining, and I wasn’t even half way.
I had a little shot of trail (60/80) and turbo (100/100) before charging the bike… and I really struggled to tell the difference between trail and turbo.
nicknameless
Member
Snap. Couldn't tell the difference between 75/75 and 100/100.
rydeezie
Well-known member
do 2.6 tires fit front and rear?
rydeezie
Well-known member
Silly question, of course 2.6 will fit in front. I’m switching to a 38….
But will a rear 2.6 tire rub ?
CjP
PRIME TIME
29 x 2.4 fit easily. Even in the shorter “27.5” chain stay it fit but with around 6-8mm clearance.
Desert_Turtle
Active member
I’m converting mine to a 29er. I’m not sure why but I’ve committed myself to building the bike like I would have wanted to buy it so I’m in the middle of upgrading. So far, Float X, Factory, 36, GX AXS, Roval Control Carbon wheels, Fox Factory dropper, kryptotal tires, XT brakes, and carbon bars. Hopefully I can get it done so that I can hit the bike park Friday. Still waiting on the fork.
Range is horrible but I have 2 extender batteries. Unfortunately, I normally ride a Levo so I’m not one of those 30/80 guys. I’ll probably ride 75/80, 80/80, and maybe 100/100.
Range is horrible but I have 2 extender batteries. Unfortunately, I normally ride a Levo so I’m not one of those 30/80 guys. I’ll probably ride 75/80, 80/80, and maybe 100/100.
CjP
PRIME TIME
You wont regret 29er rear. Also I found turbo 100/100 No difference in battery usage compared to my KSL. As in within a couple percent with both my brother and I swapping bikes mid rides. I only rode turbo though.
Add me to the list of people unable to tell any difference between trail 75/80 and Turbo 100/100…. Like, NO difference.
I do wonder if there’s something up with this that might get ironed out with a firmware update, especially due to the fact the bikes ship with Turbo set at 100/80….
I’m quite happy with the range but I’m coming from riding an analogue bike so not using a ton of support. On a cross country loop of just under 30 miles with only about 1000ft of elevation, I still had over 20% at the end of the ride… that’s an 82kg rider mainly 35/35 eco, small amount of trail and not wasting my time by using Turbo! In most of my use cases I’ll rarely need the range extender.
I do wonder if there’s something up with this that might get ironed out with a firmware update, especially due to the fact the bikes ship with Turbo set at 100/80….
I’m quite happy with the range but I’m coming from riding an analogue bike so not using a ton of support. On a cross country loop of just under 30 miles with only about 1000ft of elevation, I still had over 20% at the end of the ride… that’s an 82kg rider mainly 35/35 eco, small amount of trail and not wasting my time by using Turbo! In most of my use cases I’ll rarely need the range extender.
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