Kenevo expert 2018 battery life

[Stevegray77]

Hello all! Im new to here, so nice to meet you all!

I have just bought a second hand specialized kenevo turbo expert fattie, and its completely awesome! I love it but the only slight issue is that the battery doesn't last that long? I have fiddled with the app settings and tried to reduce the power requirements etc but it hasn't made much difference? the battery efficiency is 90%.
Also the previous owner had it chipped and i guess the main question is would that make a difference? I would like to unchip it but not quite sure how to?

Thanks!

Steve

 

[Zimmerframe]

If it's derestricted, it's most likely just been done by changing the wheel size either directly with bluetooth or with Blevo.

To reset it to factory standard (and remove the de-restriction) Connect to Mission Control and in the settings/adjustments (can't remember the name of the page), just click PRESETS at the top and that will reset everything. Then turn the bike off and on again to apply them.

That's always a good place to start with the 1.3 motor if you have any power issues.

If the bike's de-restricted it will use more power. You'll probably be pedalling assisted over 25kph. The faster you're going assisted, the more power you'll generally use.

Tyres can also make a big difference. Something like DH22's will be really draggy and give upto a 25% range drop.

Rider weight, terrain, how you ride will all make a difference.

With 90% you should still get about 1000m climbing and 30+km's even using mixed modes, though if you're hammering hard in turbo you might only get 10k's.

 

[Swissrider]

I have a 2018 Kenevo with a Maxis DHF 2.6 on the front and a DHR 2.8 on the rear. My bike has done about 3000k. My battery has 90% health. Recently it was only charging to 93% so I ran the battery down to about 5%, moved the battery indoors and charge went up to 100%. 1000m of ascent and 30k sounds about right to me. I changed the supports to 30%,60% and 100% and now use Trail most of the time. Before on the standard settings I hardly used eco as it didn’t feel like any support and Turbo quite a lot. For 90% of my rides I find the range is fine although I quite often finish in single figures. If I really need to go a long way I’ll either take my charger and re-charge over coffee or a meal (I couldn’t manage with a bike that doesn’t have removable battery) or I take my wife’s Levo battery as a spare. I think the “old” Kenevo is a great bike (the cheaper Kenevo won a multi bike shoot out for bikes under €5000 in EMTB magazine), not as dedicated downhill as the new Kenevo but still better than the new Levo downhill and still a great climber. Some modern bikes may be easier to hop, skip and jump around but I don’t think there is much that could beat it down a rocky, bumpy fast trail with its 180mm travel and rear Ohlins coil shock. The only disadvantage these days is a 500w battery, especially if in the company of others with bigger batteries but a Trailwatts extra battery would solve this.

 

[lightning]

My 2020 Kona with the Shimano 504Wh battery will do around 30 miles and 1,000m of climbing in fact l did exactly that on Sunday and l got home with 10% battery remaining.

The bike is ridden mostly in "trail" mode and up against the assist cutoff whenever l can manage it.

 

[Zimmerframe]

My 2020 Kona with the Shimano 504Wh battery will do around 30 miles and 1,000m of climbing in fact l did exactly that on Sunday and l got home with 10% battery remaining.

The bike is ridden mostly in "trail" mode and up against the assist cutoff whenever l can manage it.

You can't compare two totally different systems. They just work differently, can be set differently, ride differently and deliver different expectations ..

Trail on a Shimano I can get good range, the trail mode is completely dynamic though so will trickle power when it can and give nearly boost when you need it. A Brose is semi dynamic, compared to the other motors none auto's, but is not like a Trail (shimano) or EMTB (Bosch) Overall compared to say a Bosch the shimano's incredibly inefficient.

A Kenevo example in Trail going hard uphill just as I stopped (and not falling off whilst doing screen grabs).

and on the move in Turbo :

99 wh/km is the highest the software will show. Which gives you about 5km's climbing, I've flattened the battery a few times going up and down in 7-10km's total.

But on a Bosch I can get massively more, but it's - just different !

 

[Alexbn921]

If the battery wasn't treated right then you probably only have 300-350wh left in the battery and it will voltage drop under load reducing power. The only solution is a new battery and use that one as a back up while it lasts.

 

[Zimmerframe]

Oh yes .. and keep your cadence up - the Brose converts lots of energy to heat at low cadence as it tries to provide the power it thinks it needs, but can't efficiently at low cadences.

 

[Zimmerframe]

If the battery wasn't treated right then you probably only have 300-350wh left in the battery and it will voltage drop under load reducing power. The only solution is a new battery and use that one as a back up while it lasts.

Possibly. You'd expect the health to show lower if that was the case, but then does anyone ever say they have less than 90% on the old battery ?

Voltage compensation was only introduced with 7.4.2 on the 2.1 motors, so those of us with the old ones have to suck up power drop with lower voltage.

There's also some history of an unresolved problem with fluctuating expectancy on a tiny proportion of motors/batteries. Mines been like it from new and never resolved despite extensive communications with SRC (Hence buying the focus because I was peed off with it in the end). Some days it has awful performance - lower power - no range. Other days it flies. Previous solutions from others with that problem generally seems to have been a motor swap rather than a battery swap.

A lot of the time with new ownership though, it's just getting used to the configuration and how to ride it to get the most out of it.